[Z06] Header Leak Managed With Remflex Gaskets
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Header Leak Managed With Remflex Gaskets
A few days ago, I was looking for something else, and discovered that I had a header leak at the #2 exhaust port of my KOOKS headers.
I was using the gaskets supplied with the headers.
Having broken off a stock header bolt flush with the cylinder head, once before attempting to manage a header leak with LG Pros in my C6, I was not looking forward to managing this one.
A word of caution here. If you get a header leak, do not attempt to simply tighten the bolt. That's a good way to break it, or worse, strip out the threads in that aluminum head. And remember, that header bolt I broke off in my old C6, was not a Chinese bolt. It was a stock bolt.
It took a right angle drill with a reverse cutting spiral flute to get that out because if broke off near flush with the surface of the head. This meant no grabbing hold of it with needle nosed vise grips, or any of the other common bolt extractors out there, nor cutting a slot into it and trying to back it out with a screwdriver. Fortunately it was far enough away from the firewall to get to it.
In short, you will probably not be successful trying to close a gap by simply tightening the bolt, if the rest of the header is already fitting flush, or near flush, against the cylinder head. So don't attempt it.
Knowing better than just attempting to torque the bolt down, I loosened up everything and fit the header flush against the cylinder head to make sure that the flange was OK.
If the flange is not true, then it would mean getting back with KOOKS for a replacement header, or having to have the flange milled.
It fit flush, but I had no confidence in the gasket.
I did some reading on this forum, and came across these gaskets.
http://catalog.remflex.com
http://catalog.remflex.com/CHEVROLET...ket_p/2066.htm
At any rate, I ordered these and they came in a few days ago.
They come with a recommended torque spec on the back.
I had planned on buying new header bolts, but figured at just 20ft/lbs, I wouldn't have to worry too much if these bolts had come from out of China. They should be able to tolerate that.
One of the first things you'll notice when you open these, is that they are much thicker than stock, or even the ones which came with the headers.
You don't want to bend these, because if you do, then they are worthless, so some care has to be taken when installing them, same as any other gasket.
Here is what I found when I removed the old header gasket.
It had been leaking pretty good.
So with the plug wires still disconnected, replaced the header bolts through the new gasket, got the gasket in place and just torqued all of the bolts up by hand as far as I could keeping the flange flush and the gasket straight.
Then tightened them starting from the inside out to 20ft/lbs and ended up with this. These worked out real well. NO leaks so far.
So if you are fighting a header leak, you might want to give these a try over the stock or the supplied gaskets.
I was using the gaskets supplied with the headers.
Having broken off a stock header bolt flush with the cylinder head, once before attempting to manage a header leak with LG Pros in my C6, I was not looking forward to managing this one.
A word of caution here. If you get a header leak, do not attempt to simply tighten the bolt. That's a good way to break it, or worse, strip out the threads in that aluminum head. And remember, that header bolt I broke off in my old C6, was not a Chinese bolt. It was a stock bolt.
It took a right angle drill with a reverse cutting spiral flute to get that out because if broke off near flush with the surface of the head. This meant no grabbing hold of it with needle nosed vise grips, or any of the other common bolt extractors out there, nor cutting a slot into it and trying to back it out with a screwdriver. Fortunately it was far enough away from the firewall to get to it.
In short, you will probably not be successful trying to close a gap by simply tightening the bolt, if the rest of the header is already fitting flush, or near flush, against the cylinder head. So don't attempt it.
Knowing better than just attempting to torque the bolt down, I loosened up everything and fit the header flush against the cylinder head to make sure that the flange was OK.
If the flange is not true, then it would mean getting back with KOOKS for a replacement header, or having to have the flange milled.
It fit flush, but I had no confidence in the gasket.
I did some reading on this forum, and came across these gaskets.
http://catalog.remflex.com
http://catalog.remflex.com/CHEVROLET...ket_p/2066.htm
At any rate, I ordered these and they came in a few days ago.
They come with a recommended torque spec on the back.
I had planned on buying new header bolts, but figured at just 20ft/lbs, I wouldn't have to worry too much if these bolts had come from out of China. They should be able to tolerate that.
One of the first things you'll notice when you open these, is that they are much thicker than stock, or even the ones which came with the headers.
You don't want to bend these, because if you do, then they are worthless, so some care has to be taken when installing them, same as any other gasket.
Here is what I found when I removed the old header gasket.
It had been leaking pretty good.
So with the plug wires still disconnected, replaced the header bolts through the new gasket, got the gasket in place and just torqued all of the bolts up by hand as far as I could keeping the flange flush and the gasket straight.
Then tightened them starting from the inside out to 20ft/lbs and ended up with this. These worked out real well. NO leaks so far.
So if you are fighting a header leak, you might want to give these a try over the stock or the supplied gaskets.
Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; 04-25-2013 at 10:20 PM.
#4
Team Owner
Nice job Ricky.
My car is much quieter since I replaced my bad CAT that also had an exhaust leak.
BTW: I remember when I had my KOOKS on my C5 it was common knowledge not to use their gaskets
DH
#5
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Yes, back in the C5 days, I had KOOKS too, and back then they were paper gaskets. At least mine were. And yes, you knew better than to use them, you used the stock ones.
Now, they have a metal one, which is a little better, but still leaves some to be desired.
You can see it. A starburst, or spiked, crown shape area of black soot between the header flange and the cylinder, where the leak is
#6
Safety Car
ARP
PT #434-1301
ARP Header Stud Kit
Fastener Style: Stud
Thread Size: 8mm x 1.25
Head Style: 12-point
Overall Length (in): 1.750 in.
Fastener Material: Stainless steel
Fastener Finish: Polished
Quantity: Sold as a set of 12
PT #434-1301
ARP Header Stud Kit
Fastener Style: Stud
Thread Size: 8mm x 1.25
Head Style: 12-point
Overall Length (in): 1.750 in.
Fastener Material: Stainless steel
Fastener Finish: Polished
Quantity: Sold as a set of 12
#7
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Virginia Beach, VA & Port Charlotte, FL (snowbird)
Posts: 4,427
Received 1,112 Likes
on
590 Posts
I've not had a header leak in 90K miles, using Kooks headers, OEM gaskets and... drum roll... Stage 8 locking header bolts. I've used Stage 8s on every performance vehicle I had for the last 20 years and never have had a header leak.
I would recommend a detailed look at the header flanges also. There could be some warping, causing the leak.
Maybe the midget with the die grander got to 'em??
I would recommend a detailed look at the header flanges also. There could be some warping, causing the leak.
Maybe the midget with the die grander got to 'em??
#8
Team Owner
Thread Starter
$115.00 plus shipping for the set, but you do get what you pay for with these.
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-149...d-kit-ls1.aspx
Still should use a quality gasket even with them though.
If these gaskets don't work with these bolts then I'll get new ones and a set of these studs.
Stands to reason, the only header leaks I have had, came after using bolts instead of studs.
I've not had a header leak in 90K miles, using Kooks headers, OEM gaskets and... drum roll... Stage 8 locking header bolts. I've used Stage 8s on every performance vehicle I had for the last 20 years and never have had a header leak.
I would recommend a detailed look at the header flanges also. There could be some warping, causing the leak.
Maybe the midget with the die grander got to 'em??
I would recommend a detailed look at the header flanges also. There could be some warping, causing the leak.
Maybe the midget with the die grander got to 'em??
The flanges appear to be OK after a cursory examination of them, and the leak is taken care of.
Stage 8 locking header bolts are a 3 piece system, and work well too.
http://www.stage8.com/gm.html
Tell you what, if you want to ensure no leaks and possible header removal to correct situation. Check header mounting flange staightness.........just got my big name headers and had to have them milled .020 and .022 to get them flat. That only cost $60!
Maybe others can pull a 3/8" flange with tubing welded into it; into a head and have it leak free when its this uneven but I didn't want to take the chance. For the money and hype they should be perfect.
I would also check for roundness of collector exit and mid-section pipes for ease of installation. Had to have mine modified to actually be round. You may also want to check for port matching of header exhaust ports with exhaust gasket, I used a new GM LS7 gasket, pinned it to flange and found flange/tubing ports to not match up, most were approx. 1/16" out while three others were 3/32 to 1/8" off from side to side.
I'm sure its just me, in expecting something to have been done right from the factory...........SR
Maybe others can pull a 3/8" flange with tubing welded into it; into a head and have it leak free when its this uneven but I didn't want to take the chance. For the money and hype they should be perfect.
I would also check for roundness of collector exit and mid-section pipes for ease of installation. Had to have mine modified to actually be round. You may also want to check for port matching of header exhaust ports with exhaust gasket, I used a new GM LS7 gasket, pinned it to flange and found flange/tubing ports to not match up, most were approx. 1/16" out while three others were 3/32 to 1/8" off from side to side.
I'm sure its just me, in expecting something to have been done right from the factory...........SR
Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; 04-04-2013 at 08:43 AM.
#11
Safety Car
Good work Ricky thanks for sharing.
#14
Team Owner
Thread Starter
But I can tell you that on the left is the gasket that was sent with my KOOKS 1 7/8 headers and on the right is one of the Remflex gaskets.
Now with the Remflex gasket on top of the KOOKS , and they are the same size.
And with the KOOKS gasket on top of the Remflex gasket.
Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; 04-04-2013 at 07:21 PM.
#15
Race Director
Nicely done. Ramflex has been added to my future parts "if needed" list. Headers will be going on my Z very soon.
Chinese bolts.....who would ever mention a problem with Chinese bolts..........jeeezsh....
Chinese bolts.....who would ever mention a problem with Chinese bolts..........jeeezsh....
#16
Burning Brakes
The reason I am asking...As you know I am using Brodix BR7 heads from WCCH. My question if you look at a photo of my Brodix heads, the D port on the heads are ported slightly, kind of like a lazy D...I called Richard and he said if the D shaped gasket intrude slightly in the port opening use the LS1 gaskets that are round in shape...I am concerned because ARH headers a D shaped as well?...I can't remember who else on the forum is using Brodix heads from WCCH to ask them??
#17
Team Owner
Thread Starter
The reason I am asking...As you know I am using Brodix BR7 heads from WCCH. My question if you look at a photo of my Brodix heads, the D port on the heads are ported slightly, kind of like a lazy D...I called Richard and he said if the D shaped gasket intrude slightly in the port opening use the LS1 gaskets that are round in shape...I am concerned because ARH headers a D shaped as well?...I can't remember who else on the forum is using Brodix heads from WCCH to ask them??
torqjunky
OJCrush08
SmokinZ
#18
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I sure wish I had done these in addition to these gaskets.
Would have made things a lot easier and nicer.
Had a hell of a time getting that last header bolt back by the firewall on the driver's side back in.
If I had studs, it would have been a lot easier to just put the gasket over the studs, then the header over the studs and just torque things down.
#19
Team Owner
Thread Starter
#20
Burning Brakes
What size socket are you using to tighten the stock bolts? I was using a 13 mm and did this. (I later discovered that the 13 mm socket was cracked.)
I thought that after replacing the gasket on my KOOKS coated 1 7/8" LTH's, I was good to go.
Then I read this thread and started wondering if I had another exhaust tick. I think that I may have talked myself right into an exhaust tick. (I have always said that if you THINK that you hear something, you most likely DO hear something.) Does this soot/carbon build up indicate a leak? I haven't had a tick for a while and pretty much have this slight soot/carbon buildup on most cylinders.
Another very informative thread Quick. I guess I will get new bolts from Chevy and maybe some REMFLEX gaskets. I meticulously installed COMP cams trunnion upgrade. Ticks whether perceived or real are getting old. Once again I am wondering, Do I have a tick? If I do, is it an exhaust leak or valve train noise?
I thought that after replacing the gasket on my KOOKS coated 1 7/8" LTH's, I was good to go.
Then I read this thread and started wondering if I had another exhaust tick. I think that I may have talked myself right into an exhaust tick. (I have always said that if you THINK that you hear something, you most likely DO hear something.) Does this soot/carbon build up indicate a leak? I haven't had a tick for a while and pretty much have this slight soot/carbon buildup on most cylinders.
Another very informative thread Quick. I guess I will get new bolts from Chevy and maybe some REMFLEX gaskets. I meticulously installed COMP cams trunnion upgrade. Ticks whether perceived or real are getting old. Once again I am wondering, Do I have a tick? If I do, is it an exhaust leak or valve train noise?
Last edited by SSMOKE; 04-13-2013 at 03:14 PM. Reason: I meant to type 13 mm NOT 14 mm.