timmmmay

Referencing this thread This Link I'm figuring my oil pressure is way to high. It was minus 5 C when I took the two photos.

Engine temp runs was at 192F, coming back from a quick errand I had to run. Can was warmed up to operating temp.

The car doesn't seem to have any noises, lack of performance... Since I'm a total newb to auto troubleshooting - do I just bring it into a garage & have them check it out? What can I do as a quick next step to possibly diagnose a crapped out oil pressure sensor etc?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Tim

Mark C5

Sounds like your sensor has died. To be sure turn the key to the "On" position without starting. The gauge should read zero. If it reads anything else the sensor needs to be replaced.

Read the sticky at the top of the page about relocating the sensor, it will tell you all you need to know.

0331MARINE

Im waiting for mine to go out. Then im going to move the dang sensor.

timmmmay

It seems easy enough to move it -- But I think I'll leave it to someone a bit more gear-savvy than I. Spreadsheets are my world _- I wish I had the tech-skills to do this stuff myself.

dgrant3830

If you get a new brass sensor, I doubt you will feel the need to relocate it. Its many of us who were only given new aluminum sensors that were worthless and failed again within minutes to days of being installed, that made us consider relocation.

Mark C5

I'd recommend you relocate the sensor no matter which sensor you use. If you do a search there are plenty of cases of replacement brass sensors failing. Plus, every original sensor that failed was brass. Just my opinion.

k0ts

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...elocate-4.html

Slider-01

I relocated mine and never looked back. . . .

timmmmay

Is there a scale of complexity that could be applied to these repair / fixes? Like, my trained monkey could do it, needs skill, or see a pro? I fit in the untrained monkey category. I think I can do it myself-but I don't wanna break anything!

Thanks for your helpful posts. Your experiences helps newbs like me

djengr

Read the sticky. It is not that hard (except it is hard on the back). You will need to check if you have the right tools, torque wrench that is in in-lbs, metric sockets, deep ones work good and I think the oil sensor is 32mm or 1-1/8 (someone help here). Take your time and watch the little vacuum tube on the back of the intake. I would suggest adding a few inches of a vacuum hose to make it easier putting it back together. I can do this in about 1-2 hours. First time I did it it took 3 hours.

Good luck

99 vett babycar

marc5

my OP sending unit failed in Oct. '09, reading was 130. I planned to do the relocate but was busy/lazy to do it...
Last month i did a 13-day road trip, from TX to AZ, Las Vegas, up to Napa Valley, down Highway 1 from the Bay Area to San Diego. Then back to TX. Only rests for the baby vette was my hotel stops at night. 5670 miles in 13 days. Never had a problem, car is running better, better gas milage- engine was decarbonized... Oil pressure reading? ...still 130.

timmmmay

Well that's reassuring... Hopefully a cruise around town won't cause me such concern... It doesn't seem like it's such a huge issue then... I may try to tackle it if goes again - but for now I'm going to bring it to my buddies garage... Thanks!

hobbesnmina2001

You can have your friend, or dealer/garage check it with a sandwich oil filter and a mechanical gauge if you want to feel better about it. The problem with not changing it is not just the reading but that sometimes they will start leaking and its located at the back of the intake manifold on the block. On a Vette the intake needs to be removed to get at it. If you change it once and relocate it the heat will be less but even if it where to fail again it will be easy to change in a few minutes!!

timmmmay

Sure enough... had it parked for two days... Went for a cruise tonight, and it was at 130 before I started it. 130 while I was driving, and it's at 130 right now, while it's cooling off in the driveway. Damn 130....

LOL

dgrant3830

Its a pretty fast job to fix it. It only takes about 30 minutes to do but you'll need the torque values for the intake and sorry, I don't remember what they are now.

timmmmay

Just picked it back up. Intake Gasket set didn't come in, so they didn't want to put it back together with the original 11 year old gaskets. So, they didn't take it apart. Going to wait until all the parts get here. Damn Canadian holidays...

Is there a quality difference in OEM Gaskets vs nonOEM?

wheelhorse

Oh no, do not pull the intake. Somewhere there is a recent Thread that shows a access hole cut with, I think it was a chain saw. Anyway, you cut and then you can get to it. Do not drop it next to the Transmission.

Slider-01

Check the Sticky at the top of the page. . .
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-relocate.html

All the info you need to relocate/replace the sender unit.

KGoodwin

The sticky at the top of forum Sticky: Oil pressure sender relocate is very close to what I term red neck engineering. It is just a step above cutting a hole in the vent cowl to gain access to the oil pressure sensor. Things get very hot in Houston especially engines so plastic/rubber parts on the top of the engine is not a high reliability choice. Relocating the oil pressure sensor with the Total Performance Engineering kit is a good solid solution (www.TotalPerformanceEngineering.com). Supposedly the GM oil pressure sensor was finally corrected in 2009 (still made in Mexico) but I have no way of verifying that statement. All of the statements that this is a 45 minute task are pure BS. But my basic philosophy is that if something is in the way - remove it. Yanking the intake manifold to gain access to the oil pressure sensor is again red neck auto repair. You'll most likely pull the very well hidden ~ 1/16"plastic" vacuum line at the back of the intake manifold (that you'll never see unless you've got experience in Braille) that is the pressure source for the AC/Heater vents. Cleaning all of crap that has gotten under the intake manifold will take 45 minutes just to clean properly (of course some guys like dirty engines; just cleaning the manifold area prior to removal is a necessisity unless you like to knock dirt into the innards of the engine). Some guys on this forum state that removing the gas line to the fuel rails is the big problem. All this takes is a $2 fuel line disconnect tool set. How somebody can own a $50K car and complain about not having a $2 tool just amazes me (but this is the Internet). Using the fuel line disconnect tool takes all of 15 seconds to remove the fuel line (or lines depending on your model). So it took me about 2 hours just to remove the manifold (incld jacking up the car to get to the oil filter area for the TPE relocation kit). People on this forum have complained of the dealer's $500 charge to replace the sensor but I feel this is a very fair price for the effort. Side story: When I got the manifold off, I found that the one of the wires to forward knock sensor had been severely pinched when the car was built. I have no idea what on the 'plastic' intake manifold could have caused it but I replaced the harness (even though I know it was working - pinched wires keep me up at night). A set of new manifold gaskets is highly recommended/manditory (a GM dealer will charge about $78 which comes without instructions - inside joke. I understand they go in dry.) First time in is a learning experience even though I pulled the intake manifold on a C4 to replace the EGR valve in ‘95, obviously no real comparison other than to know it is job. So I've vented. I appreciate GM engineering but I am biased and getting senile - all "we" did was put a man on the moon. Ken Goodwin, Houston.