426 Hemi

Use'r again---no problem doing that.

Todd157k

CAUTION: THREAD HIJACK!! ok, not really. I decided to do the cut-a-way method and took some pics. Not too difficult to say the least.
Tools needed: 14mm socket, 1-1/16 deep socket, Needlenose pliers, cutting disk and a sawblade (use by hand. plastic cuts real easy)

REMOVE WIPERS (14mm socket, pull washer hose off too)



REMOVE TRAY (5 plastic rivets. Pull center up, then pull rivet out) Lay upside down ontop of motor.
This is the underneath tray



EDIT: Although I didn't use it, and it's not in the picture, Mike99FRC suggests sliding a plate UNDER the plastic to be cut to protect the hoses under the cowling. He used an old license plate. Good tip Mike.
I cut on an angle so that I can put the plastic piece back on.. sort of like a carving a pumpkin top. Don't let your cutting wheel go too deep. There is a hose right under the cover. Look at the next pic. Cut a decent size hole. It will be covered up anyway. If it's small, you'll just fight yourself for no reason.



There's the little devil right there. (sorry for the bad pic, but you get the idea)



Using the 1-1/16 deep socket and a long extension, r/r the sensor. This is the new one installed. I used about 2 turns of tape also and didn't over tighten. Just snug it up and when complete, start the car and make sure it doesn't leak.



I used some duct tape and replaced the plastic piece. Looks ugly but you can't see it when the top plastic is put back.

cruisemon

kewl

Charlie

87bob

That has got to be the best way to replace the sender. Getting a little creative, if a small metal strap was pop riveted on to the top of the plastic part removed a couple of sheet metal screws could hold it in place and be made to look as if it came from the factory. GOOD JOB! That is the way mine will get replaced. Thanks for the post.

Spark 2

How difficult is is to remove the windshield wiper arms?

Do you cut the access hole in what would be the center of the engine

block?

Thanks

Todd157k

Wipers: One nut under the "plastic plug".. then wiggle it a little. Comes right off.

The access area is actually off center -toward driver side- by about 2 or 3 inches. As you can see in the pics, you need to cut away just under the passenger side windshield wiper MOUNTING STUD.

cruisemon

Bad form.

The purpose of the forum is to help those who are not sure or don't know how. If only those well versed and skilled at modding and tinkering with C5's were the only ones who posted, it would be a very lonely place with lttle information exchange indeed.

Charlie

hotwheels57

He makes a point that we all thought about...he just said it out loud and without tact.
Somethings are best left to a professional with the knowledge, skills, tools and experience to do it right the first time. I'm amazed at some of the projects people tackle on their cars lacking even the basic tools.

Ol'55

I feel one of the many reasons this forum is so successful is the fact that we the car owners fueled by the passion and love for the sometime cantankerous and frustrating moments in ownership MUST share our mechanical findings rather than pay exuberant dealership prices for improper and botched repairs and damage to our pride and joy. The old adage "If you want something done right, search the Forum, and do it YOURSELF" There is more help and useful knowledge in here than in all the TSBs they've written. So I say to our new member, Welcome to the Forum good luck with your car. And listen up and you will learn alot, both about your car and the people who own and repair them. For the most part this is a very friendly and warm place (it's winter) and don't forget to wave.

pewter99

thanks for the pics guys

dgrant3830

Is the Buick sender #12584940 the same thread size as the original sender and what is the part# of the original sender? Not the replacement sender from GM but the original one? I threw mine away thinking I wasn't going to need it and the replacement went into its place only to fail two weeks later. I know the original thread size is M16 x 1.5 but wondering about the Buick sender.

426 Hemi

The Buick sensor has a different thread size -----1/4 taper pipe thread. But everything else is the same apparently---electronics, connector and socket size.

As far as the vette sensor's part number, the old paper parts manual lists 25037026. Not sure if it is still that or has been superceeded.

dgrant3830

Yeah, not finding anything on that original number. I've contacted the GM Goodwrench website regarding this problem, but they wrote back saying they only administer the website itself and can do nothing. Just emailed the dealer too and asked them to find me an original sender as there are bound to be some dealers with some left over. Hard for me to believe that GM isn't hearing or doesn't know about this problem, therefore ignoring it. When our cars start catching on fire due to massive oil leaks spraying all over the exhaust manifolds and cats, then they'll start thinking about it.
I was able to find a converter for the block connection, M16x1.5 to 1/4 Pipe and it has the compression ring on the base. Comes within a set of these for different cars from Autobarn.com and is on its way too me now. I don't want to chance a mess up of the block with a slightly different thread in the 3/8 pipe vs M16x1.5. Will convert that oil pressure output to the new sender and insert a 1/4" needle thread valve into the line in case the replacement PS308 that I bought, fails too. At least I'll be able to shut off the flow that way. Should that happen again, I'll re-adapt to the Buick sender but at least, won't be down behind the manifold again. I really don't like the idea of cutting through the plastic at the top. Easily can do that, but I'm thinking that rain water would then be pouring through that opening down onto the back of the engine. No, I haven't looked in there to verify that, so it may or may not be an issue, just a concern of mine.

426 Hemi

Fantastic! When you get'r feel free to post a pic and info on how to pick one up.

I had considered doing it, but for me I just decided to pull the intake again. Wanted to replace the intake gasket, valley gasket and some deteriorated PCV plumbing anyhow.

BRKLYN

dgrant3830

I also found a part number for the opposite side, the female M16x1.5 but can't locate anyone with it. "Wagner 0097 201". I might end up calling them but if anyone knows where Wagner parts can be ordered from, that would be nice.

NocarbutaVetteforme

Absolutely brilliant! Your pictures were worth a thousand words. This way I won't feel so bad if the thing fails again because it won't be a bear to take it apart. With me, if I do it enough times I'm sure to break something. So this way will minimize the things I could possibly break. Thanks once again for the pics and instructions.

craig04c5

Very nice alternative!

bluevette1

So if I am just going to replace my old sender in the factory location(doing the cut mod), what is the best one to replace it with?

If i were to relocate the sender to the front of the motor to the place suggested by American HP, all i need to do is screw in the sender and lengthen the wires from the old location?

Thanks

Todd157k

"So if I am just going to replace my old sender in the factory location(doing the cut mod), what is the best one to replace it with?"

Well, here's the deal. I talked to 5 different dealers and they all had the same replacement part which is an aluminum bodied, Mexico made, part. I did the mail order PS308, but it too is alum. bodied and made in Mexico. Good luck finding an original brass bodied one.

"If i were to relocate the sender to the front of the motor to the place suggested by American HP, all i need to do is screw in the sender and lengthen the wires from the old location?"

yes. The reason I didn't do it this way is because 1) the location was difficult for me to get to and I could not actually see the plug although I could feel it and 2) with the failure rate of these replacement sending units, I wanted to make the r/r next time as easy as possible. Whichever is easier for you.. go with it... just don't over-tighten.