anti bump steer blocks doubts
04-01-2014, 03:42 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
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anti bump steer blocks doubts
look at pics
shouldn't the tie rods be more angled down on the external sides?
i know i made a mistake and bump steer blocks are upside down...long story...they were not tapered for tie rod ends fitment so i made the taper but on the wrong side.
anyway , even if i replace those blocks with new ones and place them correctly , i think that the tie rods will not be angled down anyway
Aldo
shouldn't the tie rods be more angled down on the external sides?
i know i made a mistake and bump steer blocks are upside down...long story...they were not tapered for tie rod ends fitment so i made the taper but on the wrong side.
anyway , even if i replace those blocks with new ones and place them correctly , i think that the tie rods will not be angled down anyway
Aldo
Last edited by elle88; 04-01-2014 at 03:46 AM.
04-01-2014, 11:09 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
flipping the blocks to the correct orientation would yield approximately another 1/4" drop (i.e., more BS correction) of the outer tie rod end. A little bit makes a difference.
I don't think it's the raw 'downward angle' so much as the angle relative to the suspension. You lower the car, and the suspension arms and steering rods angle up (possibly exaggerated for the sake of example). The BS blocks restore the tie rod angle relative to the suspension.
I don't think it's the raw 'downward angle' so much as the angle relative to the suspension. You lower the car, and the suspension arms and steering rods angle up (possibly exaggerated for the sake of example). The BS blocks restore the tie rod angle relative to the suspension.
04-01-2014, 10:23 PM
#3
Safety Car
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I don't have a convenient picture of this part of my car on the ground like your picture, but, agreeing with 69autoXr here that you can't really tell just by looking at the tie rods, I took the trouble to map out the effect. This is a laser spot on the wall a couple feet away as I moved the a-arm up and down with the spring out. Red is with the blocks installed. Toe change pretty minimal
04-03-2014, 02:55 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
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thanks for the replies
i found some infos on the net ( some drawings) and the lines drawed by the lower A arm axis and tie rod should point in the same point somewhere under the centre of the car to have zero bump steer.
so if the A arm points up externally then a parallel to ground tie rod is ok .
if both lower A arm and tie rod are parallel to ground : not good
I'll try to make some under car measurements but not easy.
btw , is there any vendor that sells just the bump steer blocks? VB&P sells only the whole kit with tie rods ( that i don't need). Guldstrand sells just the blocks but so expensive...
@69autoxr
what type idler arm are you using? HD or ball/needle bearings?
i found some infos on the net ( some drawings) and the lines drawed by the lower A arm axis and tie rod should point in the same point somewhere under the centre of the car to have zero bump steer.
so if the A arm points up externally then a parallel to ground tie rod is ok .
if both lower A arm and tie rod are parallel to ground : not good
I'll try to make some under car measurements but not easy.
btw , is there any vendor that sells just the bump steer blocks? VB&P sells only the whole kit with tie rods ( that i don't need). Guldstrand sells just the blocks but so expensive...
@69autoxr
what type idler arm are you using? HD or ball/needle bearings?
Last edited by elle88; 04-03-2014 at 02:59 AM.
04-03-2014, 03:48 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
I used some parts from the steroids r&p kits that are available seperatly.
Covered in detail on this page
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...ourney-32.html
My 71 is fairly low and it fixed the bump steer issues i had
Just need to sort out some tramlining that occurs.
Covered in detail on this page
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...ourney-32.html
My 71 is fairly low and it fixed the bump steer issues i had
Just need to sort out some tramlining that occurs.
04-03-2014, 04:48 AM
#6
Race Director
thanks for the replies
i found some infos on the net ( some drawings) and the lines drawed by the lower A arm axis and tie rod should point in the same point somewhere under the centre of the car to have zero bump steer.
so if the A arm points up externally then a parallel to ground tie rod is ok .
if both lower A arm and tie rod are parallel to ground : not good
I'll try to make some under car measurements but not easy.
btw , is there any vendor that sells just the bump steer blocks? VB&P sells only the whole kit with tie rods ( that i don't need). Guldstrand sells just the blocks but so expensive...
i found some infos on the net ( some drawings) and the lines drawed by the lower A arm axis and tie rod should point in the same point somewhere under the centre of the car to have zero bump steer.
so if the A arm points up externally then a parallel to ground tie rod is ok .
if both lower A arm and tie rod are parallel to ground : not good
I'll try to make some under car measurements but not easy.
btw , is there any vendor that sells just the bump steer blocks? VB&P sells only the whole kit with tie rods ( that i don't need). Guldstrand sells just the blocks but so expensive...
I have an set of blocks if you or anyone else is interested, all holes drilled just no taper. $90+ shipping. I also have an extra old style MOOG 2-piece HD Idler arm (the one they don`t make any more) brand new in the box also $90+ shipping.
04-03-2014, 09:07 AM
#7
Melting Slicks