How to Remove c6 fuse/relay box
 

Looks like the under hood fuse box is easy to remove. Once it is loosened from the holder, there are 4 connectors on the bottom. I don't want to force them, how are they removed?

Not sure if I can give you a clear picture but....
Have you already separated the top half of the fuse block from the bottom via the clips on the sides?

Once you separate the top from botom half, underneath the top half there's a plasic cover over each separate rectangular module (for lack of better words). The plastic cover simply unclips from each module. Then you unscrew whichever module you are removing via one of four screws. The screw routes down through the top of the fuse block, between the fuses/relays, down into the particular module. This will allow you access to the wiring connectors.


Edit: if you are just looking to get the entire fuse block/cover out of the way slightly but not get to wiring, there are screws/nuts holding it down.

Hi DSMOC6, thanks for the reply.
Let me try to clarify what I'm doing. I want to remove the fuse block and either replace it or modify it based on a low beam problem that was described in another post.
I have separated the top and bottom with the the 4 clips on the the sides of the box. I was then trying to remove the plastic covers (rectangular modules) but I didn't want to force them for fear of breaking. If I understand correctly the plastic covers should just pop off with a screw driver or other tool and unscrew the 4 modules to remove the box, is that right?
To replace the new box I just do the reverse.
Thanks again for your help.
Jim D

Each of the four prominent screws arranged in a row down the center of the fusebox secures one of the big harness connectors on the bottom.

Here's the trick: to remove one of the connectors, loosen its corresponding screw and back it out until it's almost removed. Then push down on the loose screw to pop the connector out the bottom. No prying or pulling on the wiring is required.

Yes Jim, the cover is just snaped in place. A small flathead screw driver to gently pry it apart works fine. I had to pull mine apart to get to the fuel pump wire that was intermittently shorting out. Wire and connector looked fine once I opened it up. So I just bent the connector back for more snug fit, a little dielectric grease and it was good to go.

If you have to pull wire(s) loose, there are plastic locks on the side that hold the connectors in place. Be careful not to let other wires escape as it's a cluster**** of wiring. Better yet take a couple pics so you know which wire goes where just in case one escapes.

Good tip. :thumbs:

IIRC those covers don't have to come off. Once the box is seperated do as mentioned above in loosening each bolt at the top of the fuse block till loose then push the bolt down and the module will pop loose. Also each of the four blocks will only plug in one way and will only reach to just where it's going.

Thanks for the tips. I'm going to work on it this afternoon and hopefully get it back together today.
Jim D

Same thing Im going to try! Thanks all for this info. I was missing pushing the bolt down.

Let me know if you solved the low beam lights problem. I have the same problem along with the gauges problem (fuel, oil, tach, rmp, battery etc...) they are all dead. Im not finding anythin related to the gauges, only the lights.

How did it go for anyone? I'm having the same headlight problem. I was able to remove the fusebox, but now how do I get the actual fusebox open to see all the wires? Apparently the fusebox problem is a common issue. You have to repair some of the connector wires. A local vette shop is charging $480 for the fix. I feel I can do it myself if I can get into it. With the fusebox out, I see no more clips or screws. There's a place towards the top where I can get a flat head in, do I just pry it apart? I applied a decent amount of pressure and it didn't budge. I didn't want to break anything. Any info helps. Thanks guys.

Have a look at this installation guide for an APS TT setup:http://airpowersystems.com/corvette/...tall_guide.htm

Page down to step 92 and go from there.

BJK

Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah I got that far. I had the top part of the fuse box out. But on that back side of that top part are just the prongs that the 4 looms plug into. I assume the wiring issue is inside of the top part of the fusebox that the relays and fuses plugin to but there are no clips or screws to open that. I took out all the fuses and relays in the area of the headlamp relay and sprayed contact cleaner in there but that did nothing. I'm going to take another stab at it tonight. I'll take some pics if I get it open. If I press on the relay while headlamps on the headlamps do come on and off. If I turn that main bolt also. So the problem is definitely in there. I bought this Vette 9 days ago and haven't been able to drive it past sundown (as is).

Okay, so I took it out again... Those large 4 screws that hold the top of the fusebox into the 4 looms below have the washers riveted on the ends so they don't come completely out. I took the whole fusebox off and out and was working on it on my couch (haha) but the fusebox itself won't pry open because of those 4 screws. They won't actually screw out, they screw into the looms but the riveted washers keep them in there. I even tried hammering them out somewhat to pop the rivets but I didn't want to hammer too hard and break the unit. So I have no idea how the repair shops get it open. And of course they won't share that secret with me, hence their $480 fee. So I'm out of ideas. Guess I'm just going to have to pay.

There is no secret that they know that is unknown here on the forum...someone here will help. I would if I had ever been into the fuse box.:thumbs:

C6 Low Beam Issue
 

I have been researching and following this issue for nearly a year now. The best source of info I have found is on the NHTSA website where over 40 complaints(including my own) have been filed by owners of 2005-207 C6 Corvettes with this issue.GM is currently supposed to be responding to the NHTSA's investigation by July 1, 2013 unless they request an extension. You can follow the research and GM's response by searching for investigation PE 13-013 on the NHTSA's website.

I now have this dreaded issue as well. Low beams work in the morning for about 10 mins, then go out. Replaced the relay and made sure stalk and auto sensor were good. Found a new fuse box on Ebay for $200, but don't want to buy and have the same issue. I am attempting to remove the fuse box as the OP is, but what is it you are looking for? Burnt wiring or bad pins?

I just knew that someone would come through...:D:D

Do we know what causes that wire to break???:lurk::lurk:

Probably work hardening due to repeated bending caused by thermal expansion and contraction. They always break in the same spot.

That is really wild...and it doesn't look like there is anything unusual about that particular bend...there are lots of bends that look the same...someone deserves lots of credit for finding that tiny break.:thumbs::thumbs:

Well...I wish I would have gotten the notifications to these replies. haha Yesterday I took the fusebox apart again and coincidentally opened it the exact same way as depicted. Lots of crimping with pliers and hammering. As a matter of fact I jumped on the forum just now all excited to upload pictures and share with everyone how to do it. A day late! My copper wire was broken IN THE EXACT SAME SPOT as in that picture http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1582973586-post85.html
I feel if everyone's breaks in that same spot it's a GM flaw somehow and they need to pay for it. Oh well, anyhow... That tutorial needs to be flagged important so everyone with this headlight issue whom doesn't want to pay $500+ can follow it and fix their Vette.
Thanks guys, I love this forum. (my next fix is the Fuel Sending Unit, yes I bought the Vette with these 2 very common problems. But I've already found the step-by-step youtube video for the sending unit)

Congrats! The shame also is how much some are charging to repair. My last fuse block I bought was around $275.00 new and you see what little is involved in actually replacing the whole unit, maybe an hour tops.

It's more like ten minutes tops. Five if you'd done it before. New ones come with all fuses and relays installed, so it's really quick.

So what exactly does this broken wire control??? Is it one of the two lines that control the headlight relay? I think it's just amazing that the wire always breaks in exactly the same place...:lurk:

If the break is always in the same place (at that curve) can we forget the curve and go straight across the top with the new wire?

So I went ahead and decided to tackle this issue myself. Especially after the dealer telling me it was $535 for a whole new fuse box! Big thanks to senseoftouch for his step by step. Only thing I did different was use tin snip for the un-swegde portion. Made several cuts in each one and the screws came right out. Was able to hammer them back in afterwards. And because of my OCD took a pic on all the fuses in place, then took them out and laid them in order on my workbench. Also used stranded wire because it was easier to bend. Took about 1 1/2 hours but I'm all good now and spent a mear $12 on this fix. Cost of a 12 pack ;).

Stranded wire was one of my thoughts as I followed this issue over the years. Haven't seen anyone use it before you though. Makes sense if the solid wire has a problem in the same spot in all the boxes.

So, is there a difference in the performance of solid wire vs. stranded wire, electrically speaking? TIA for any info you may have. :)

When I went to purchase the solid wire and explained the reason behind it the guy at Home Depot said the stranded was better because of flexibility (when expanding because of the heat) and easier to bend. I had 14G stranded in the garage, stripped it down and took out three strands which I wrapped together. When putting it in place I used a very small flathead screwdriver to pop into place and hold down when I bent the wire. Really was much easier than anticipated.

I think the curve is there for strain relief. Going straight would likely make it _worse_.

It's probably sufficient to grind out the little plastic grid square where the curve is. That would give the wire room to move.

I wouldn't mess with stranded conductors. The fuse box has punchdown terminals. They make good connections but you have to use exactly the right gauge wire, or else you'll have traded one source of intermittent continuity for another.

That seems to be the problem I am continuing to have. The fuel pump wire. The previous owner replaced the entire fuse box, but the problem persists. NO START. I just pop the hood, wiggle the fuse box and it starts right up. I guess my problem is where the fuse box connects to the wiring harness. Any help appreciated, Jim