How do I remove locking lug nut?
I am changing tires and wheels on a 73 convertible I have recently acquired. I did not receive the locking lug key. How do I remove the locking lug? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Take it to a tire install store. They have tools for that. Costs like $20. Better than you messing with it.
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I'd take it to a place that installs tires, they will probably have a tool that does it.
There is a tool that is for removing bolts and screws with stripped heads, get your hands on one of those and it should work. Harbor Freight, maybe? Scott |
Find a 12 point socket thats just smaller then the locking lug, and hammer it on. you should be able to get it off.
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Originally Posted by Clubby99
(Post 1578276057)
Take it to a tire install store. They have tools for that. Costs like $20. Better than you messing with it.
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If its only 1 the tighten the other 4 real tight then grab the locking one with vice grips and turn it off.
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Originally Posted by Clubby99
(Post 1578276057)
Take it to a tire install store. They have tools for that. Costs like $20. Better than you messing with it.
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Originally Posted by qwank
(Post 1578276373)
Find a 12 point socket thats just smaller then the locking lug, and hammer it on. you should be able to get it off.
I've done this before. :thumbs: |
If you have a welder, weld an old lugnut to the locking lugnuts. :D
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Had the same problem with my car a few years back. Took it to the tire store (lees Tires)here in va beach and they did not have a lock that fit it. Used a socket and pounded it over the lug nut and it came right off. It took two sockets because the first one split down the side. 10 minutes per tire. cost 60 bucks. I guess I could have done it at home if I would have thought of it.
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There's actually special gripper sockets with sharp edges to bite in some shops have. Combine this with their air impact wrenches, and pretty difficult to replicate for most home users. Some locks, like McGard are hardened, and hard to grip into. For fun try drilling a hole in one. A little torch heat usually solves the problem, but at the risk of damaging the wheel.
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Originally Posted by qwank
(Post 1578276373)
Find a 12 point socket thats just smaller then the locking lug, and hammer it on. you should be able to get it off.
It was for just such applications that Harbor Freight was hatched. :hide: |
Originally Posted by qwank
(Post 1578276373)
Find a 12 point socket thats just smaller then the locking lug, and hammer it on. you should be able to get it off.
Originally Posted by dgood
(Post 1578278676)
Had the same problem with my car a few years back. Took it to the tire store (lees Tires)here in va beach and they did not have a lock that fit it. Used a socket and pounded it over the lug nut and it came right off. It took two sockets because the first one split down the side. 10 minutes per tire. cost 60 bucks. I guess I could have done it at home if I would have thought of it.
Originally Posted by blckslvr79
(Post 1578277423)
:iagree:
I've done this before. :thumbs: |
get an impact socket and drive it on with a hammer. impact sockets are much stronger.
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locking lug nut removal
Thanks all. I used 12 point socket worked fine. Thanks again!
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Originally Posted by qwank
(Post 1578276373)
Find a 12 point socket thats just smaller then the locking lug, and hammer it on. you should be able to get it off.
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Originally Posted by Shark Racer
(Post 1578280580)
DO NOT do this. It's bad juju for the wheel hubs. You wouldn't torque a single lug to spec at full capacity before doing any of the others, right? Would you be willing to put a 200+ lb impact load on a single stud?
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Originally Posted by GRIZ73
(Post 1578285779)
Thanks all. I used 12 point socket worked fine. Thanks again!
Glad it worked for you. Any damage to the hub??? :D |
Originally Posted by blckslvr79
(Post 1578286366)
What in the hell are you talking about???? We're talking about removing the lock nut, not installing one. No one is torqing down 200+ lbs??? :crazy2:
Where do you think the force is being applied? Do you check the rotor surface before and after with a dial indicator?
Originally Posted by blckslvr79
(Post 1578286371)
:cheers:
Glad it worked for you. Any damage to the hub??? :D Did you even read my post? Do you know the difference between "impact load" and torque? |
While getting a bit off topic, kinda freaky thing happened. Been using a set of McGards for years transfered to 3 seperate cars. Bought another new set for a different car. I'll be damned, if it wasn't the exact same pattern, using the same lug key. I always buy an extra key, and hang it with a copy of the number card on the basement wall.
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Originally Posted by Shark Racer
(Post 1578286570)
How much force do you think you're applying to the hub when you hammer the socket on?
Where do you think the force is being applied? Do you check the rotor surface before and after with a dial indicator? What kind of hammer are you picturing?? 10# sledge? Seriously, you tap the socket over the locked nut and remove same as any other lug nut. No damage done. Unless you've got facts to prove otherwise? 200+#???? Really??? :crazy2:
Originally Posted by Shark Racer
(Post 1578286570)
Anything I can say to respond to this would be a violation of the forum rules.
Did you even read my post? Do you know the difference between "impact load" and torque? Yes I read your post. What do you think I was responding to??? Yes I know the difference between the two. Neither matters here. No body is using that kind of force. :crazy2: A small ball peen hammer and a socket is all you need. A couple light taps and the nut comes right off. No body is trying to drive the nut through the rim. |
Originally Posted by Vette5.5
(Post 1578286749)
While getting a bit off topic, kinda freaky thing happened. Been using a set of McGards for years transfered to 3 seperate cars. Bought another new set for a different car. I'll be damned, if it wasn't the exact same pattern, using the same lug key. I always buy an extra key, and hang it with a copy of the number card on the basement wall.
Waste of money IMO. :thumbs: |
Originally Posted by Tim H
(Post 1578276923)
If its only 1 the tighten the other 4 real tight then grab the locking one with vice grips and turn it off.
I've used this method many times with 100% success. |
Originally Posted by blckslvr79
(Post 1578289089)
Besides, that question was not directed at you. Was it?
Originally Posted by blckslvr79
(Post 1578289121)
This is exactly why the use of lug nut locks only prevents theft by honest thieves. Back in my younger days, I worked in a parts store that sold these. There where only like 12 or so different patterns. A thief could buy each of the patterns for their own tool box or even easier, tap the right size socket over them and remove them.
Waste of money IMO. :thumbs: I agree with you 100% on this. I do not want thieves hammering on my wheels to get them off, let them go. The only change I'd make to your statement is to call them "lazy" thieves rather than "honest" ones. All about opportunity cost. Luckily, we've picked cars where wheel theft is somewhat less; not like the bulk of us are putting chrome spinner wheels on SUVs or whatever the current in thing is for teenagers and econo-cars. :cheers: P.S., Very good point on the number of key designs being limited. |
Originally Posted by Shark Racer
(Post 1578291330)
I'd mentioned hub damage and you'd ask him if there was hub damage. It's not exactly a stretch to see where the comment was directed.
I agree with you 100% on this. I do not want thieves hammering on my wheels to get them off, let them go. The only change I'd make to your statement is to call them "lazy" thieves rather than "honest" ones. All about opportunity cost. Luckily, we've picked cars where wheel theft is somewhat less; not like the bulk of us are putting chrome spinner wheels on SUVs or whatever the current in thing is for teenagers and econo-cars. :cheers: P.S., Very good point on the number of key designs being limited. |
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