coloradoSPEED & ELITE Engineering Oil Separating Catch Can Kits
 

CLICKCOLORADOSPEED SINGLE & DUAL CHECK VALVE CATCH CANSCLICK

The coloradoSPEED Oil Separating Catch Can Kit has what your vehicle needs and choosing the right kit for your vehicle is important. Our patent pending catch can system will work on any type of vehicle however the fit and installation varies from vehicle to vehicle. The information below will help you determine which kit to choose, then choose the kit and tell us about your vehicle. Based on our experience installing our system on a variety of vehicles, your kit will come with the proper length of hose, fittings and OEM fittings necessary.

• Naturally Aspirated (Non-Boosted) – Single Valve Can
• Forced Induction (Turbo or Supercharger) – Dual Valve Can
• Naturally Asperated High Output (Heavily Modified) – Monster Can
• High Output Applications with Over 15 LBS of Boost – Monster Can
• Winter Months with Temperatures Falling Below 45 Degrees – Monster Can

CLICKELITE ENGINEERING STANDARD & E2 GEN CATCH CANSCLICK
STANDARD CATCH CANS

• Designed for ANY Engine Type
• Elite's 3-Chamber Design
• Can be Fully Disassembled for easy Cleaning or Inspection

Standard 3-Chamber Design that made the Elite Catch Can so popular and functional.

E2 GEN CATCH CANS

• Specifically designed for Forced Induction, Turbo or Supercharged engines
• Elite's 3-Chamber Design WITH Larger 3rd Stage
• Available with: 1 or 2 Exit Ports
• Available with Integrated EXIT Check Valves
• 30% more volume than our Standard Catch Can
• Can be Fully Disassembled for easy Cleaning or Inspection

Same 3-Chamber Design that made the Elite Catch Can so popular and functional, but with a larger volume

Please e-mail or call us if you have any questions as we do not frequent Corvette Forum and may not answer your question in a timely manner. Please like our facebook for cool deals on parts and buy, sell, trade your used parts here LSX PARTS BUY SELL TRADE and here C5 CORVETTE PARTS BUY SELL TRADE and here C6 CORVETTE PARTS BUY SELL TRADE and here LTX PARTS BUY SELL TRADE and here C7 CORVETTE PARTS BUY SELL TRADE


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Do you have any pics of the dual checkvalve model mounted on a vette with a blower (centri style blower).

So the single valve is for nonboosted applications and the double valve is for boosted?

Yep, under boost the PVC one way valve sees boost rather than vacuum and closes off the flow from the valley cover. You need another source of vacuum to evacuate the crank case through the catch can. I am just finishing up with the dual valve install on my APS TT. I will put up pictures and a diagram of my setup in the next few days.

BJK

how is this installed? how are the hoses routed? i am considering purchasing

I took several pictures of my install earlier today, I'll probably have the rest late tonight or tomorrow.

BJK

nice please let me know... is it just two lines?

Depends, do you have a super charger setup? If yes than you should use the dual valve can and that has three connections. If you are have an NA engine, then you will want the single valve can and it uses two hoses. Here is a poor picture of my dual valve can. I am just not ready to do a full write yet as I need more and better photos and a schematic of the hook up.....tomorrow. :crazy:

BJK

How would this mount with a Centri set up?

Well, I am doing single turbo. Where do you have your three hoses coming from? One from passenger valve cover right? one from intake manifild, and one from where else?

Here is the schematic for my twin turbo set. I did not use a second can for the clean air connection, i.e., the valve covers, instead I just used the PCV from APS TT.....a REALLY good valve BTW to control clean air reversion.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1571625933-post86.html

BJK

Here is a schematic for a centri setup. Scroll down near the bottom of the page: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1574669412-post1.html

BJK

Here is my final hose routing for my APS TT. The two hoses that drop down to the front of the car connect into the turbo intake system just after the K&N air filters. (pictures one & five) The hose that runs between the two valve covers and is teed to the diver side inlet through a one way check valve is the clean air line. The third hose on the catch can is routed down to the passenger side inlet. It's purpose is to provide an alternate vacuum source for the purging of the valley cover when the throttle body connection is cut off because the engine and intake manifold are under boost.

BJK

This is he ONLY system I have seen that ensures proper evac on a turbo or frony mount SC setup. The dual valves automatically close & open as it senses boost in the intake.

How is it working? And oil or crankcase pressure issues?

My car is still up on blocks. Right now I am involved with coil overs and a Z06 fuel pump swap.

BJK

why might you need the filter for the additional 39.00?

The breather eliminates the 2nd route of oil ingestion by eliminating the OEM make up air line. At WOT some oil enters the airbridge via this tube and coats the throttle body blade and intake. Not near as much as the PCV lines, but still an arear of concern. It has an integrated checkvalve to prevent vapors escaping into the engine compartment. Have it on mine and it works! :thumbs:

pm me, I need to order a dual valve setup with additional filter for oil cap

Anyone else have pictures of theirs installed and some feedback on how there working?

:cheers:

Pics of another Vortech install:

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...atchCan023.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...atchCan009.jpg

Ok

I got the dual valve catch can with the optional air breather

I have a TTIx twin turbo. I want to make sure I understand the best connections for the catch can and ensure I have the right routing

is it a good idea to run a hose and T both inlet pipes before the turbo

at the same time, I'm upgrade to aftermarket valve covers, and need to be sure I know what I'm doing before poking holes and putting any fittings in.

I have an email into byun and will post up their reply to confirm

thanks for any help. very nice product, and it looks like it will work well

thanks:cool:

Yes on the T. That way you get the most vac possible while under boost.

Emailed you more diagrams. :thumbs:

I would like to know how well a poly check valves does under boost, I'm currently using a very expensive stainless steel check valve for my PVC system. I would think that plastic ones would not be able to hold up under pressure and would leak by over time.

Thousands of these in use and not a single failure reported yet....and he has them on up to 1200 HP and 23# of boost so I'd suspect they are pretty dang reliable. But time will tell.

thanks for the great info another question

I have the optional breather, so should I also tap into both valve covers?

do I have to take the pass side tap off the back of the drivers side valve cover or would the tapping into the front work ok?

the pic that shows "to the intake" that hose just plugs into the port right behind the throttle body?

sorry for the all the questions but I'm making cuts on some custom sheet metal valve covers and following the "measure twice" cut once rule

thanks for the feedback, I'll look for the info in my email

With the breather I would pull from the drivers side only as the breather will be in the pass side. This will give a good cross flow "flush" of the crankcase vapors with the fresh make up air entering the breather travels around the rockers, down the pushrod valley, through the crankcase and up the drivers side pushrod valley and up out around the rockers and out the drivers side valve cover. This gives a great complete flush of the crankcase. :thumbs:

Here are some of the colors:

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ncolors001.jpg
Any tech questions, just ask!

:thumbs:

The description here and on the ordering site doesn't quite exactly spell it out so I'll ask:

Is the single valve for N/A, the double for FI? Is there any benefit to dual valve for N/A?

thanks.

Placed my order for a dual valve can and breather! :thumbs:

Anyone have the size of the can itself? I'm looking to replace my EE can for my FI application and want to make sure the RX can will fit in the same location.

The can is approximately 6" x 3". Add another 1.5" to the height for the connections on the top.

BJK

Thanks. Just placed and order for mine.

:thumbs:

The single valve units are for NA and top mount super chargers. The dual valve is for turbo or front (remote) mount superchargers.

More details on the Turbo/SC dual valve need


Here are the challenges:
*
Normally, an engine crankcase is evacuated of the harmful combustion byproducts through the use of the intake manifold vacuum. This is at its greatest while at idle, or when decelerating from WOT so this, as long as the flow is regulated (usually by a PCV valve or a fixed orifice) this effectively keeps a constant cross flow of filtered fresh air through the crankcase where it is evacuated.
*
With a turbo charged, or front mount super charger presents a few issues. First, when the intake manifold is pressurized, there is no longer a vacuum source to deal with the combustion by-products, etc.
*
And second, the pressure from the intake is pressurizing the crankcase resulting in less power from the pressure, (breathers alone will release excess pressure, but do not allow the crankcase to be "flushed")*and oil leaks are not uncommon.
*
The dual valve oil separating can has nearly 9" between the inlet & outlet of the can allowing maximum oil separation & containment. The avg can has app. 3". This makes it possible for some oil to be pulled through the avg catch can no matter how well it catchs oil.
*
When the engine is at idle & non-boost operation the main check valve is open and using the intake manifold vacuum for crankcase evac. As soon as the intake is pressurized from boost, the main check valve closes so there can be no back-flow through the can & thus pressurizing the crankcase, and the second valve opens and uses the inlet side of the head unit as a vacuum source (as most kit instructions have you run the evac for all modes of operation) so no matter what state of boost or non-boost the engine is in, it always has positive crankcase evacuation taking place.
*
The can is 3-4 times the capacity of the small ones which not only aids in no oil pull through, but rarely needs emptied except at normal oil change intervals.

curious what the avg shipping time is on these?

i still dont understand all this pcv stuff. I have a single turbo now, and know I need the dual valve kit, but I dont understand what ports get blocked off, and what I connect to the can. Also I think I read somewhere it needs a fresh air source in front of the turbo, but I dont have a pipe in front of the turbo... I just have a filter on the turbo...

and are all check valves one way?

Yes.

BJK

App 1 week right now due to the demand.

More details on the Turbo/SC dual valve need


Here are the challenges:
*
Normally, an engine crankcase is evacuated of the harmful combustion byproducts through the use of the intake manifold vacuum. This is at its greatest while at idle, or when decelerating from WOT so this, as long as the flow is regulated (usually by a PCV valve or a fixed orifice) this effectively keeps a constant cross flow of filtered fresh air through the crankcase where it is evacuated.
*
With a turbo charged, or front mount super charger presents a few issues. First, when the intake manifold is pressurized, there is no longer a vacuum source to deal with the combustion by-products, etc.
*
And second, the pressure from the intake is pressurizing the crankcase resulting in less power from the pressure, (breathers alone will release excess pressure, but do not allow the crankcase to be "flushed")*and oil leaks are not uncommon.
*
The dual valve oil separating can has nearly 9" between the inlet & outlet of the can allowing maximum oil separation & containment. The avg can has app. 3". This makes it possible for some oil to be pulled through the avg catch can no matter how well it catchs oil.
*
When the engine is at idle & non-boost operation the main check valve is open and using the intake manifold vacuum for crankcase evac. As soon as the intake is pressurized from boost, the main check valve closes so there can be no back-flow through the can & thus pressurizing the crankcase, and the second valve opens and uses the inlet side of the head unit as a vacuum source (as most kit instructions have you run the evac for all modes of operation) so no matter what state of boost or non-boost the engine is in, it always has positive crankcase evacuation taking place.
*
The can is 3-4 times the capacity of the small ones which not only aids in no oil pull through, but rarely needs emptied except at normal oil change intervals.

The optional breather kit supplies fresh make up air and the suction side of the turbo if there is no intake tube you would add a 1/4 NPTx3/8" nipple in the air filter base as close to the inlet as possible.



Thanks BJK! :cheers:

do you still retain the cars stock pcv valve in line somewhere or do you rid of it with this setup?

No, you dispose of the stock PCV since the checkvalves are also configured to meter the correct amount of flow. :thumbs:

thanks man.... one last thing. What do you think about their oil cap filter with built in check valve? Is this necessary to get the job done ?

The fresh air source tube lets some oil in at WOT, so if you want the cleanest intake air charge, yes.

wait, what fresh air source tube are you talking about though?

On the 97-04 the crankcase draws its filtered fresh make up air from the top of the TB through a hose that connects to the inner front of the passenger side valve cover. When useing a breather this MUST be capped off or your drawing in to much unmetered air not passing through the MAF and your fuel trims will go wild. With any breather, the RX included this must be deleted and the fittings capped. With most breathers the amount of airflow is unrestricted and under WOT there will be excess crankcase pressure backing out of the breather venting to the atmosphere which is non-emmisions compliant. The RX breather avoids this with the integrated check valve in the breather assy.

Here are some pics of cans just out of the paint booth ready to assemble:

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ncolors001.jpg

Breather & can on a twin turbo V6 2010 camaro:
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...reckTTV616.jpg

so when using the filter option does this eliminate the need for one of the hoses on the rx can?

No. The RX can comes in 2 different configurations. The single valve is for NA or top mounted SC and the dual valve is for Turbo & front mount SC. The breather would eliminate the OEM fresh air tube between the pass side inner front of the valve cover and the intake air bridge on LS2/3, or top of TB on LS1/6. :thumbs:

Ahh, I understand now. This catch can stuff is complicated.

Well worth it for those that want the best for their baby. :thumbs:

How is the breather filter serviced in the future? Is it washable or is it necessary to spend another $39 and replace the whole piece? Is the checkvalve removable?

I'm curious since I don't want to cut a hole on my coil cover and wonder if the checkvalve could be transferred over to a "low profile" breather.

Thanks.

I just placed an order on the website for a black dual valve setup for my 2004 corvette z06. I hope you have it in stock ready to ship, because I need it this weekend really. If you dont have that color that can ship today, please let me know what colors you do have ready.

The checkvalve can be added to a different filter. It can be purchased separately. The one we use is 1 3/4" total height from the low profile oil fill cap and yes, it is washable like any K&N style filter. :thumbsup:

Have the black in stock....you will have it before the weekend. :thumbs:

Im sure i'm gonna add to the beating of this horse thats been dead on page 2 but my set up is full bolt ons', cam, and 150 shot of nitrous. So I am pretty sure I go with the single valve correct? And do I really need the breather filter or is it just for more protection and by using it does it eleminate anything stock wise? And does the filter go on the actual catch can or on the oil fill cap? And do the directions that come with it, explain everything for different set up's, ie N/A, top super charger, procharger, turbo ect ect? And does it comes with mounting hardware as well? Sorry for all the questions just wanna go over all this before I purchase it.

Aweomse.

Does this include removal of the fixed-orifice type "pcv"? I have the LS2-style fixed orifice and it would be a PITA to get to since it's incorporated into the outlet tube on the valley cover up under the intake manifold. Maybe cap it off and use another location(s)?

you have a PM

Single valve is what you need. The application you order will come with pretty much everything you should need. Hose, bracket, bolts, and instructions for the application you specify. If more is needed PM me your email & I'll send all diagrams, etc.




On a stroker or FI build I reccomend capping the valley orfice and pull from the drivers side valve cover rear. You can look at it and it should have a plug in a gromet (depending on the year) that can be popped out and a fitting or standard metal PCV valve inserted. :thumbs:

Good questions!!!

does this mean my 04 z06 with the ls6 valley has to be blocked off? Is there I way I can know it has pcv built in without removing the whole damn intake, etc.?

The LS6 valley fixed orfice is sufficient for a bolt on car, but if FI or a big cube/stroker build the orfice is to restrictive to deal with the added crankcase pressure developed. So if your a bolt on car your fine using it. If not then do the drivers side valve cover mod and pull the crankcase vapors from there and cap the valley nipple.

All LS6/LS2/LS3/andup have the valley cover evac vent with fixed orfice. There is an issue with some leaking around the baffel on the underside where excess oil is pulled in because of this, but it is not really widespread.

Ls1 will draw from the drivers side valve cover and have a true PCV valve in the plastic/rubber lines between the drivers side valve cover and the intake manifold vacuum nipple. This set up deteriorates over time and the rubber parts disintegrate allowing vacuum leaks.

Well, I have the ls6 block, and valley cover. I was told not all ls6 valley covers were the same though, and it wasnt until the most recent block (2004)) had all that fixed stuff and oil seperator.

Anyway, will I need to run a pcv valve in line from the back of the drivers side valve cover? Or is everything I need built into the can?
Also, did my dual valve setup ship yesterday? I really needed it before the weekend

True. The LS6 valley cover was revised for the LS2 & further for the newer motors but the fixed orfice is still to restrictive.

Will get you tracking soon on the can. You will have it for sure! :thumbs:

so either way you want me to cap it off and run the line for there to the rear left valve cover?

For a FI car I would. The can will regulate the amount of flow so thats not an issue.

so i dont need inline pcv valve?

No, but I included one that should fit in the valve cover grommet so you can run the hose right from it. It has a 90* fitting on it.

The RX can not only has the integrated checkvalves but they are also configured to control the amount of flow the avg heads/cam or FI motor should have. Nothing like it on the market. You will need to post pics when your all set w/it.

any downside to using your included pcv when one is technically not required? Would it be better for me to just run a hose off the left rear valve cover? I will indeed put up pics of the entire setup.

Thanks Young. Same here. :cheers:

just got my dual valve setup today and leaving in 30 to install it. Im not running the mini breather on the oil cap, but should I block off the port that runs from the throttle body to the valve cover?wouldnt this allow boost into my engine if I keep it that way. Nothing said about this in the instructions other than to block it if using the mini breather?

Just want to know for sure what to keep or block off when installing this before I go doing it.

Yes you will need to cap the nipple on the throttle body. This is the fresh air source used to replace the oil-air sucked out of your PCV system. You may also want to consider removing the throttle body and filling in vent to the fresh air source with JB weld then sand smooth for better airflow.

Good answer RadioFlyer! Not many understand this as well as you.

We usually like to use the breather on ALL forced inductioon applications as you still should have a fresh air source but capit off and you should be fine. Let us know the results. :thumbs:

yep it all worked out... no more burning oil, and no more leak in my engine :)

Ha....I'm a newb when it comes to actually working on motors. I just learn from the FI guys.

Btw, is is possible to turn around the nipples on the can to feed from the other direction? This would help with the location I'd like to mount mine.

Yes. they all swivel. The outer ones are threaded in and the center is a push-on.

Post pictures of how you mounted it.

I ordered a polished RX dual valve can yesterday for my build.

I just installed a new set of Billet valve covers on my 402 YSI stroker. They do not have a port on the driver side rear cover so I must use the valley cover PCV port to evac the crankcase.

I understand that you don't recommend using the metered orifice PCV valley system on FI stroker builds but I have to. The option does exist however of pulling the tube from the valley cover and drilling out the orifice bigger. The question is how much bigger would you go?

What other recommendations do you have?

On the dual valve model, does it matter which of the outer hoses goes to the intake manifold or blower?

The issue with the valley cover location is twofold. First is the restriction, and I drill out with a 1/8" bit as the checkvales in the can are calibrated to control the amount of flow so you wont pull too much. The other issue is the location. Ideally you want as much cross flow as possible through the entire crankcase. If fresh air enters through the pass side valve cover it flows around the rocker arms, down the push rod valley, through the center of the crankcase, up the drivers side pushrod valley, around the rocjer arms, and out the evac outlet. All the while flushing, pushing, and pulling the harmfull combustion byproducts out of the crankcase. If pulled from the center top of the crankcase itself the drivers side is never properly evacuated. Now this is fine for GM and most other production companies and you should be fine with it, the goal of modifing the PCV system is to have it work as efficiently as possible and still meet emmissions standards. So to answer the question, yes you can open up the fixed orfice and do fine and with a custom valve cover they usually don't have a baffle incorporated into them so adding a fitting to pull from them means locating it where the rocker, especially the path where the oil squirts from the pushrod feed, does not spray or fling oil right into it. Try and get it between two rockers.

On the outlet valves, it does not matter unless labeled as both will open and shut when sensing flow the incorrect way so they always are closed to pressure and open to vacuum to evac as much as possible whether in boost or not.

:cheers:

Excellent. I should have a report Tuesday. Looks like rain today and tomorrow....and i want to play AFTER the rain:D

nice..does this set up get rid of that line that ties into the front of the air filter? (03 Z06)

With the optional breather it does.

Are you referring to the A.I.R hose on the driver's side that connects directly to the air filter housing up front?

No. Just the frsh air tube on the pass side that runs to the air bridge or the air filer on some SC kits.

Good you pointed that out. :thumbs:

What is the difference in the 5 different cans you offer for the corvette. You have them broken down by year and models. Is the Zr1 different internally from all the others or is it just the mount? I will not be able to mount in the intended location on my 05 so I just want to know if I should look at a different one than the 05-07,

Only difference is the mounting bracket and the single valve for NA or top mount Super Chargers or the dual valve for Turbo and front mount SC's.

yes would be...

The catch cans and the various setups being discussed here have nothing to do with that hose and it's connection.

That hose (the A.I.R. hose) provides a source of clean, filtered air to the factory electric air pump. It is part of the emissions controls on the car and doesn't hurt performance. It is there to allow the O2 sensors to "light off" sooner on a cold start-up so the pcm gets the engine into closed loop quicker. If you decide you want to change your air filter set-up to one of the aftermarket versions, most (not all) have provisions on their housing that allows you to connect that hose back up. Some people who have an aftermarket air filter that does not have a provision for it, have installed a small filter into the end of the hose(to prevent dirt getting into the air pump) and just repositioned the hose over to one side. I recommend leaving it (the system) hooked up. I have it on mine and it's not hurting a thing nor does it hinder the tuner from doing his job when doing a performance tune.

HTH

:confused:

I assume this setup does not exist on the C6....

Just ordered mine!

Lone star is correct! Good contribution.

Later C6's may not have the A.I.R. system.....not sure.

I also wanted to point out that several have sent pics and shown their existing setups and most have been routed to defeat any sort of crankcase ventalation causing the combustion by-products (water, sulferic acid, unburnt fuel, carbon particulate, etc.) to stay in the crankcase causing damage over time. This is NOT good. Your better off with oil in the intake air charge than to let the nasty stuff stay in the crankcase and cause damage.

A properly working crankcase ventalation system has to have vacuum or suction to pull the harmfull compounds out while a filtered fresh air source allows in make up air to "flush" the fashed off compunds through the crankcase. Any deviation from a closed system and all your doing at best is venting excess crankcase pressure. A properly designed system is crucial to long engine life and I realize most of you trust a shop/tuner/or FI kit supplier with this, but very few understand this completely....and many don't have a clue.....no matter how well known they are. If you are in doubt, just ask. There is far to much misinformation out there, especially on the forums, about how to deal with crankcase issues....and your baby is far to valuable to not understand it. :thumbs:

Just ordered mine, Did know I needed this asap. Vendor is completely awesome sent me everything I needed and is working on shipping my item by Saturday if its possible. Dont hesitate to purchase from his website!

My Order Status is Order Processing since Tuesday, just wondering how long it takes to ship out?

Each are made to order but usually within a few days to a week. :thumbs:

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ncolors001.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...hosekit002.jpg
And the dual valve can for Turbo and front mount SC:

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...atchCan023.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...atchCan009.jpg

PCV orifice sizing?
 

Catch can all mounted up and looks great. The final mod will be drilling out the orifice in the valley cover PCV nipple to compensate for the addition blowby potential of the FI motor.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...7/_DSC0070.jpg

Bat car told me that this would work as the Catch Can flow rate is metered by the installed valves. One question on that though. The catch can seems to flow at a much higher rate than the fixed orifice in the valley cover. I just wanted to make sure this is not going to cause an unmetered air problem for the ECU.

The can should not be an issue but watch your A/F to see for sure as you have the reg breather and it draws in unmetered air. Awesome job on the mount!! Post some more angles so I can see it better. :thumbs:

See here:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...r-bracket.html

Also I only ended up drilling out the fixed Orifice to 1/8 inch like you had said before, hope that's enough.

Looks awesome thank u again for my item sir! Now I just need to change these lines to stainless steel

just curious...
i'm going to be adding a Kenne Bell to my LS1 C5, and i just wonder why a top-mount only needs the single-valve can as opposed to the two-valve like the centrifugals & turbos.
also, on that note, does that mean i can go ahead & install it before i get the blower on, or will i have to take it all apart & reroute stuff to install the blower?

Just got mine. Only question before I install this is, was the bracket that holds the catch can suppose to come with a bolt to use to mount the bracket to the head? If so mine did not come with one :(