My 64 Coupe Coke Bottle look Restomod build with Grand Sport Heritage
 

Project has an is still suffering from PSC (Project scope Creep).

What started out as leaving body stock and mounting it on StreetShop Frame with LS3 480HP crate engine and A4 trans, has moved to rear body customizing and now to front fender customizing also due to need for wider rear qtrs.

Question is will we able to to obtain the final project rendering look are not. The changes to lwr front fenders may not be achievable so we have been playing with a couple of other looks.

C2 Vette's positive wheel offset has caused the rear quarters to have to be stretched more than 1.0" to fit the amount of wheel hoop showing on rear wheels in rendering, rather than because of 295/45/18 tire size. Tires would have fit 1.0" stretch fender without a problem.

Guess you could say the car is being customized/built around the wheels as most of the body changes will be done so we could get a lot of wheel hoop showing on rear wheels and to lessen the amount of rear tire exposed to view on both front and rear of rear Qrts, to try and prevent tires from slinging up debris on qtrs and ruining paint, yet while still trying to maintain a semblance of stock look on rear, more so than fat/broad look I've run across researching project using wide tires.

Car will have a coke bottle look to it looking down from above, rather than the typical step seen in GTS and other aftermarket stretch fenders to get them to match up with stock door edge location.

First rendering stock body with knockoffs of Halibrand 46-50s kidney bean style wheels.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...ingSmall-1.jpg

Forth and final Rendering customized body and knockoffs of Hailbrand 60s Sprint style wheels and front fender styling used on C6 Zo6.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...endering-2.jpg

Project pic with loaner wheels from Camaro with same size wheels and tires as I'm using on it and try at different lwr front fender look.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P7141236.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P7141243.jpg

Wheel shown in final rendering finally came in back around 1st of September, but beause Body Shop doing the work had 3 cars being built for SEMA, they were not able to work on car until again until this week.

Project pics with tires and wheels on it that car is being built around.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P9291297.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P9291299.jpg

First thing was to try and nail down the final direction body changes where to take. Think you will be able see we are going to try and hold ture to rendering.

Hope now is that they will be able to do the C6 Z06 fender vent shown in rendering. This has been a big question, that we hope to have cleared up by Monday.

Since I had been thinking about adding a rear brake cooling vent for more of a racing look plus use it to also try and cover some of the exposed rear tire and lessen the pronounced dip in body line of the GTS 1.0" stretched rear qtrs where they had to get qtr panel's body line back inline with that of door. You should be able to see both conditions in picture below. You can also see cuts in rear door to allow door sking to be moved outward around 1/2"+ to smooth the contour of body line out. Doing that has a ripple effect that will require need for more body changes.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB180056.jpg

Shop did a down and dirty mockup of what it would look like using bonded on studs, tape, and fiberglass vent opening. They did this in such a manner as to make it look like they had scooped out door to match the forward depth of the front fender vent and made it mate with the brake vent. Hope you can picture that in your mind as I forgot to take a picture of it before we tore mockup down because it changed the stock looks of the car to much.

You can still see some of tape and paint on car in picture below as he started doing tape mockup of what the front fender would look like stretched 3/4"- 1.0" to keep front and rear fender widths in proportion.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...PB180052-1.jpg

Next came the Sawsall, dreaded wooded paint stirrers, masking tape, screws, and a piece of a 2"X4" under rear of qtr panel bonding strip to push out rear of qtr panel this time to see if we can curve it to show about the same amount of tire exposed, as that exposed on a stock body and tire car, yet maintain the stock qtr's look on rear. The rear of qtr has not had any cuts made to allow it to curve back in and mate up with rear valance panel.

As you see in from pictures, we moved on to the Coke bottle curve look shown in the rendering, but with change that make the transition between the rear qtr panel and door even less dramatic and more flowing than that in rendering by extending point out on door conture matched back up with that of stock body.

You should be able to see how much that change reduced the amount of exposed tire and dramatic drop of body line in picture below. Odds are when he gets through contouring fender to fit tire, even less of tire will show.[/B]

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB180057.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB180055.jpg

Picture of rear showing amount of tire exposed we hope to achieve and still have about the same body width as stock by maintaining stock qtr panel angle where it bonds to rear valance.

No cuts made yet to qtr to allow it to curve back in to rear valance/tailight panel.

Once he starts contouring rear qtr, he hopes to be able to get a little more of exposed tire covered up yet have it curve back and mate up with rear valance/tail light panel with out having to splice it in.

Shop is trying hard not to have it take on a wide rear end bubble look.

Rear bumpers will still have to be cut and sectioned an are pie cut to fit.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB180059.jpg



http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB180058.jpg


Just hoping it works out as planned.

Looking good, Following your thread on another forum, looks like it's going to be a little tight for tire clearance to the 1/4? Do you have the offset trailing arms?

Never mind, went to the other post to re read and answered my own question.

keep posting update's, I like following other people's money pit's, let's me know I am not the only one trying to stimulate the economy.

Any chance of pic's of your 66 LS conversion as well?

That's quite the project - I like it!

:cheers:

I admire your williningness to do cutting and fitting of panels. Not many people are this bold. It will be worth the effort, in the end.

Really nice work....:cool::thumbs:

I can't wait....
 

till the finished product is exposed! I love the sleek lines that retain the C2 lines.

Bud.

:iagree:

Just to clear up your question so others want need to go to other site, car has C4 suspension with coilovers as shown in one of the picture below, so trailing arms are not a problem.

To get what Shop calls "The Look", lot of rear wheel's hoop showing, the outward edge of the wheel must move outwards, away from the wheel hub, or hub inwards so you go from positive offset to negative offset wheel.

Something has to move, either the body panel outwards, or the frame, inner body, and suspension components inwards enough to fit tires & wheels inside stock body. Even with all that inward movement, the qtr panel will probably still need to moved outwards to have any semblance of correct suspension geometry.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...P9291296-1.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P9291301.jpg

I took the route the factory took with the cars they raced, and by doing so get the benefit of the old Pontiac's hyped "Wide Track" stability effect, Vs narrower Stock Track.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h..._sebringgr.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h..._sebringwh.jpg


This also allows me to go from Pro Touring look to Pro Street look, by just removing the rear 18"x10" wheels with 285/40/18 or 295/45/18 tires and replacing them with 11" rims with 315x35x17 tires, to get the 1.0" wider fat tire patch look.

Here is what we had to do just to get the wheels & tires to fit inside 1.0" aftermarket stretched rear qtr panels. In at top and out at bottom and you can see from second photo, there is plenty of room to fit a 1.0" wider tire.;) Final qtr contouring should have min of 1/2 inch clearance between tire and qtr panel's inner wheel well lip.

You should be able to tell there will be more than 1 1/2" of space between existing 10" rim and tire between it and frame to fit an 11" rim with tire.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P6090003.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P6090014.jpg


The LS7/6L80E is moving at less than a snail's pace.

Probably be mid December - January before there is any changes you can see.

I'm hoping to have a working paddle shift setup in hand to go along with Tiptronic floor shifter in the next couple of weeks.

Found a company that is willing to work with me on it. We are trying for no batteries, RF switching or using one existing wire inside steering column for both power for paddles switches and send shift signal to trans controller so it's a no brainer, easy for anyone to install setup.

Guts, naaw it doesn't take guts!!!!

I had confidence in the years of experience of Bodyman that he could handle it.:rolleyes:

He took one long look at picture of Rendering on my computer, told the Shop owner, I can do that, walked out into shop, we heard a sawsall and thought he had gone back to work on project he was working on prior to when I got there.

In about 30 mins he came back into office an told us to come out and look at car to see if he had achievd what we wanted.

So guts is not what it takes with an old body man, but for a young one, shown in picture below, it takes ignorance that it's your car that getting cut up with a SAWSALL by a young KID.:ack:

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB180051.jpg

How many kids his age, can look at a picture, then go make cuts on a door and fender where they need to be made.

I'm going to nickname him AllState cause I know car is in good hands.....LOL

Impressive! It's great for me to see things like this.

Amazing project :thumbs:... can hardly wait to see the finish on that '64 Restomod! :cheers:

Sweet Project! :cool:

Thanks for sharing the pics and details. :cheers:

- Pat

Cool project! You should sell those raised pad early 64 doors and replace them with 64L-66 units. The raised pad doors are worth a pretty penny and are extremely rare.

I believe body man would shoot me.

One of the things he commented on when he first saw car was he liked the raised pad door over the later models without them. He thinks it adds to the car looks.

Anyway, I don't think anybody would give an ugly penny for the drivers door now that we have cut it across the skin and where skins on back side joins door frame. We're raising skin 1/2" plus so we can smooth out contour between rear qtr and door.

That change means door jams will need to be widened so stock rocker molding can not be used, unless we try to re-contour them. We will probably make some that look like ones in Final Rendering as that would make that area look more like todays Vette.

Shemshin sells a patch panel so you can either repair cracked ones are add them to a door without them.

That is quite the project. One cannot believe the hours that can be put into this creation. Love the wheels and the body mods. Killer road machine. Can't wait for the final paint !!! One has to be some kind of artist to achieve your goals.

:iagree:

Rock on!!! :smash:

I just love this car! Keep the pics come on rolling:)
Ah those great lines:thumbs:

What kind of coil over kit do you have?

I'm using a frame/chassis from Street Shop Inc. with C4 suspension components. Shop also has C5 & C6 suspension chassis/frame packages.

http://www.streetshopinc.com/c4midyear.html

Here is a nice package from them I'd love to have under my 64's body.

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z...endrick002.jpg

That's just sick right there...

:iagree::cool:

Can you say "Ka.. Ching"...$$$$$$$$>

Rear bumpers
 

Love this project so i have to read this thread again.

Are you going for 3 rear lamps on each side? I would keep the rear lamps original if it was my car

Rear bumpers
 

Will the rear bumpers fit the after it have been widened?

Thanks, I appreciate that, along with all the other comments from members here.

Just hope final car meets approval of everyone.

Plan is for adding a third lamp on each side.

If you look at spacing of lamps, at least to me it looks like Chevy's original plan was for another tail lamp or backup lamp. If you add the third lamp and maintain the same spacing between all three, the center one is located about dead center of each rear bumper.

Factory built at least one 64 vette executive car with a third tail lamp installed.


Rear bumpers will not fit even if we can maintain rear quarter panels contour at original bonding strip location. Just no way to bring contour/shape of rear quarter panel back in soon enough to clear at outboard end of bumper.

They will have to be sectioned.

Shop made a little progress on the 64 even with short week.

Main work this week was centered on stretching drivers side front fender and adding a functional vent in lower fender panel, to door, and to rear qtr panel to mid point of wheel well.

Plan for next week is to finish up vent area design, do a little contour change to front fender were it rounds around from front, and then move on to re-contouring rear portion of qtr panel.

You can see the 3.75" block of wood that's holding rear qtr panel out wards to approximate amount of rear tire we are hope to be able to cover and still contour the quarter so that it's shape is same as stock were it bonds to rear taillight panel in last picture.



http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB270070.jpg


http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB270075.jpg

You can see the 2 dummy vents have been removed and replaced with functional one.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB270067.jpg

Picture from engine compartment of duct to feed vent. It also provides stabilization to panel to prevent it from flexing.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB270069.jpg

You can see, my old body man is shaping cap/cover for vent duct he made. Piece will be bonded/glassed on and faired in too fender.
Not quite the same as Z06's vent design shown in rendering, but about as close as we will be able to get.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB270080.jpg

He found time to make a mold off original rocker panel and make a layup off it so I could see how replacement rocker panel might look. May add a piece of BLING for contrast to it were the raised fiberglass area/spear is.


http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB270081.jpg

He made some dummy spears out of Styrofoam and taped them on so we could get an idea of how they might look vs maybe using mesh screen to cover the vent opening. Final look for vent exit is still up in the air.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB270086.jpg


http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB270090.jpg

Looks like the Spears are just a little too fat. Going to have to call in Jenny Craig and get them on a diet. May have to down size venturi of vent exit to air to do that.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB270088.jpg

Picture of amount of tire we hope to be able to cover up (notice the 3"x4" block of wood :D), yet still bring contour back to stock at rear in hopes of avoiding the rear end bubble look.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB270089.jpg

PS: I apologize if pictures are skewed your viewing. I can't tell on this end as I've been playing games and my screen resolution is set to play them. I fogot to reset it before downloading from and uploading them and to lazy to redo them if they are.:o

The pictures look fine for me.

This is an interesting project and I'm looking forward to seeing the finished body profile.

When I saw the first photo the first impression made by the front body line was, "SR-71 Blackbird."

Looking good.

Love this project.
I think you have this great looking body on the car already so be a little careful so it wont be too much.
Only my personal opinion:thumbs:
To much can often be a little overdone.Less can be perfect. And i think you are close to perfect!
What about just go for the cut outs?

Have you any ideas of what colour you are going to go for?
Oh yeah i can picture me this car in Daytona Blue or black.Some colour that makes the widening of the car shine thru.

Can't disagree with that statement. Most of what has been changed to date is no more than what you find on most other Restomods with stretched fenders to accommodate wide wheels & tires.

The exception to those changes are changes that I believe improve on them:

1. Trying to limit the amount of exposed tire at front of rear qtr panel's wheel well and sharp angle needed to bring a stretched fender's body-line contour back in to fair in with rear edge of door.

This required moving the outer edge of door out-wards minimum of 1/2" so qtr panel could cover more exposed tire an allow for contouring qtr panel into doors newly contoured look. This is something very few people would want to attempt. Maybe seeing how it was done, will encourage others to make their on improvements rather than go with the flow.

2. Trying to limit amount of exposed tire at rear of qtr panel's wheel well and still fair qtr's contour back to stock where qtr attaches to rear of car.

Right now about all I can tell you about doing this at this time, is the bonding strip panel just behind the wheel well will have to be stretched outward x.x".

Qtr panel will have to have a number of cuts made to it to relive stress to it so it can be re-contoured to blend back in without having to widen the rear end of car. This will be tough to pull off and get the tire coverage I want. Odds are the overall width of car at rear will be wider by minimum of 1.0 inch, are 1/2" per side. More than that and rear end starts to take on a bubble look when compared to stock.

3. I think your talking about the stock Lwr fender vent area an just using cutouts like GM did with their race cars to vent uderhood air pressure so this is the 3rd and to me the most drastic change being made to cars appearance.

Cutouts are what most people do to their 64's to try and get rid of the built in dummy vent look with addition of different means to add a little bling and stabilize cutouts to help with the 64's bland looks. Cutout with out some bling of some kind are still bland.

At this time, lets just say what I'm trying to do is make my 64 different, and stand out from others.

Basic look is there now. How I handle the adding of bling are going without bling or maybe a mesh screen cover for opening bling, is still a work in process.

Some may dislike what I've had done to date, others may like it, but even if it's ugly, it will make people notice, come over and look at car to see what other things to like are dislike about it...LOL;)

Black is out along with any other dark, dark color as it just to hard to keep them looking good. I fought my last battles with a black car from 1994 to 2006. Never again.

I want to paint it 2008 Audi R8 Daytona Gunmetal Pearlized as it's not a dark Gunmetal. I have not done the research to see if it's a 3 stage Tri-coat color. If it is, an I can't duplicate it to a 2 stage paint then I'll pick another Gunmetal that is 2 stage paint.

PS: I think the shop I'm working does not want a car to come out of their shop that does not look good to most, so they are working to keep me in check. They want car to be an advertisement for them.

Going to look up Audi R8 Daytona Gunmetal Pearlized colour right now:)

What about the interior of the car? Lets here your plans.

We never finished the interior plan...:willy:

There was a debate about 2 tone interior or one color using dark contrasting stitching to set it off.

Lets say dash pads and seats will be a corvette sliver leather color from C2, C3, C4, C5 OR C6 years.

One of the 82 Slivers is top candidate from current samples I have been able to get my hands on so far. Problem is the vendor just marked both 82 sliver an I've never seen either before so can't put color name to which is which. It is the smooth grained leather one.

Seats, C6 powered, re-upholstered with 64 style pleats, two tone or single color with contrasting color stitching.

Dash Pads, Leather covered

Door panels, custom design. Two tone or single color.

Carpet, Plush charcoal color or match primary sliver used.

Console area may not be stock.

That's about the best I can do for now.

Body is PPG, Ferrari 704C Grigio Titanio Metallic (titanium), 37032. Stinger and stripe are PPG, Ferrari 703C.97 Canna Di Fucile Metallic (gun metal), 37217:

http://www.largescaleonline.com/eima.../DSC_00032.jpg
http://www.largescaleonline.com/eima.../DSC_00021.jpg
http://www.largescaleonline.com/eima...in/HoodsUp.jpg
http://www.largescaleonline.com/eima.../index_003.jpg

Seats were done in black and piping matches the titanium of the body. Headliner was done "old school" to go with the overall theme. Whole interior (carpet, door panels, seats, and headliner in vinyl) parts and labor cost $1,825. I found that it is far cheaper just going into a custom interior shop and getting a price to "do the whole job," rather than trying to piece this out through Al Knock and doing the labor myself..., and you can get it the way that you want it.
http://www.largescaleonline.com/eima.../index_013.jpg
http://www.largescaleonline.com/eima.../index_014.jpg

Don't forget to open up the scoop (literally one way or another) and detail the underside of the hood too.
http://www.largescaleonline.com/eima...HoodInside.jpg

I've always liked the looks of your car. You posted the paint codes for me back in early 2008.

My car would be a negative of your. You took the stinger's darker color into interior. I want to take the lighter color into the interior so Your stinger color would be my primary color.

These pictures don't do the R8's paint justice. But it may be close in color to Ferrari color, except the pearlization can add a greenish tint depending on lighting. You can't see it unless you get close up.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA230562.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA230561.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA230560.jpg

The PPG titanium has an obvious blue tint. Depending on the light, angle, etc., the gun metal has a very subtle bronze tint and less metallic than the titanium.

http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/a...m/DSC01924.jpg
This my "vintage race Coke car" when I first had it done in the early 90's I had a lot of flack from the NCRS group for cutting up a perfectly nice 66. I have raced this guy for years and enjoyed more of it than my stock trailer queen 66 vert. Great project.

Could you post more pictures of car. I'm trying for a Pro Touring street look of vintage road course vettes that had stock stretched fenders?

You wouldn't happen to know overall width of car at front fenders and rear 1/4's measured at center of their wheel wells?

That would give me and idea how close my car's front and rear wheel tract width is to yours.

Thanks,
PHN

Jere, I've been following your build with interest, your bodyman is quite the artist with glass. All along I've had one question in mind. Why did you not go with the aftermarket fat fenders that are available?, like the red one and others, but chose to go labor intensive and invent your own, which turned out to be very similar to those?
_____________http://s6.tinypic.com/2e6g4ck_th.jpg__________

I must say i really like that opened up hood and of course the rest of the car:)

Were do I start an I'll probably ramble along with this, so bear with me as I try to lead you to were I'm coming from. You may have to use Fuzzy logic to tie it all together...LOL

First, lets say I'm not reinventing the Fat Fenders.

Lets say I'm doing a Rev 2 revision to a stock fender...LOL The existing Fat Fenders are Rev 1 & Rev 1A. Neither 1/4 panel Revision met my goals for less of a debris slinger and cleaner looks of 1/4s.

If I were not working with a Shop that knows how to do this, are if I was trying to do this on my own like others, I'd be using Rev1 or Rev 1A fenders too...LOL Would you want to take a sawsall to your doors just to get tire coverage and cleaner looks?

Yes they look close, but I'm hoping the end result will set them apart looks wise too. Also I'm not the first to try for more coverage of rear tire exposure of a stretched 1/4.

Although I did give Bodyman 1.0' stretch 1/4s, it would have been easier for him to stretch stock 1/4s to try and get the amount of front & rear of rear tires exposed I want with less effort due to him having to back out problem with Rev1 or Rev1A stretched 1/4s, not to mention rear wheels back spacing they ordered to get "The look" wouldn't fit under them, so they had to be stretched a little more anyway. I out thought myself when I did that. Should have had more faith in shop.

If I told you it was no more labor intensive to stretch your stock fenders than cost of using pre-stretched front and rear fender and mounting them, would you believe me?

In fact, it might even be cheaper if you had no hit stock fenders, and maybe even if you bought new press molded fenders, even though hand laid would be equal to bought stretched ones and cost would be cheaper.

If you want stretched front fenders, you either stretch stock fenders are use a set that you have to bond on lower fender Turn signal panels. Those fronts arn't cheap either.

There is slightly less than $420.00 dollars in material and labor to stretch that stock front fender on that :cry brand new Jig Assembled front end on my car.

I'm providing you with and others a couple of links to study over and you decide if either using pre-stretched Fenders came out any cheaper than me, and I'm not doing any of the body work myself.

Study over these two links. I found them very informative, and they led me down my current path to try and improve on stretched rear 1/4.

Also go back and re-read my rambling prior post and take a good look two of the pictures of my car and maybe you can understand at what was achieved on front side of 1/4 panel. I think it looks better. Others may like the race look better.

http://www.onr.com/user/richb/rich66/Pages/cars.asp

http://www.computersupport.ca/Restoration/Body.htm

http://www.computersupport.ca/Restoration/Corvette.htm

The only fiberglass worth saving on my car were doors and top. The rear tail light panel has to be replaced too. Car was a barn find, that from the looks of all four corners was raced some before being stored.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...64/64large.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4280211.jpg

Went to shop today for my weekly view of progress and pay the Piper trip.

Another part of trip was to see if we could stretch rear of qtr panel to get the tire coverage I wanted.

Got there and shop also wanted to try see if we could come to a decision on final look an trim/bling of front fender vent so they could proceed with knowledge that what they were doing and what I wanted were one in the same so they could go all out on getting the left hand side of car done and then move to right side and duplicate them there.

When I got there one of the body men was working on door jam that needed to be changed due to moving the door skin outward along with the rear qtr panel to get tire coverage on forward end of qtr panel. Took a couple picture of that. Jam looks to be the most complicate change to body.

Door Jam.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030004.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030005.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030003.jpg

Now the big if on project has been, can we stretch the rear quarter panel to provide better tire coverage on side, without causing a bubble effect to look of rear end. I hope we have achieved that goal.

It took about 30 mins to do what you see, with a little coaching of panel and body man to get the darn thing where I wanted it. In fact we got the front and rear of wheel well opening within 1/8 of each other so we have the same tire coverage on front and rear of wheel well opening. Oddly enough that extra 1/8 of and inch outwards is on the rear side.

View of Right Rear quarter panel from rear. Note that Tire & Wheel are canted inwards to get tire inside the 1.0" GTS stretched 1/4, so there would be even more tire exposed without that. Note also were the end point of 1/4 is at on rear tire.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030017.jpg

Pre-stretched try by using 3" x 4 " block of wood.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB270089.jpg

As you can see we were able to stretch the 1/4 to get same tire coverage on front and rear of wheel well opening.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030022.jpg

Front side of wheel well to compare tire exposure.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PB270083.jpg

How we got there.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030010.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030011.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030012.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030013.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030014.jpg

Vent will be using C1 Spears for bling and has been reshaped to remove some of it's bludge.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030018.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030019.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030020.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030021.jpg

I have been closely watching this thread. It is gonna be sweet, and that is coming from an x purist!

Please ask this guy in this picture if he was ever in the US Navy? I would swear I know this guy!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/PC030011.jpg

Lot of work here!! Will be interested in seeing the end result.

Lookin Good! That is going to be a really neat and unique corvette. So, how many total hours will be in the body work when finished?
I dont want to see your bill :willy:

That's like asking a woman how old she is or how much she weighs...LOL

I don't want to see it or think about either....:willy:


Money spent on these cars is what I call STUPID MONEY.

It's STUPID MONEY because if you stop and realize that it's going to cost you a minumn of $5,000.00 dollars a year in income for the rest of your life on Principle money your spending and still do it, it's STUPID.
You don't even want to think about lost if you compounded that 5 large.:banghead::rofl:

Rough estimate shop gave me when I asked that question was most metal Street Rod cars coming out of shop average 550 hrs for body work and paint.

I would like to think I'll make the average, but due to amount of body changes, I'll probably exceed that.

To date what you see in pictures and don't see of in mockups and molds of a couple of different vent styles including one that included a rear brake vent, is 132 Hours.

I'm also glad I live in the South were cost of living is cheaper.:D

I've got another car in work at another shop that has a cheaper Labor Rate that is a stock body car with only major body change being bonding on a new front end, an I'm going to have more in it's bodywork/paint than this one.;) Labor rate is just part of it, PRODUCTIVITY is what really counts in trying to figure cost.

Thanks Jere for the explanation, can see where your coming from, just hope that you don't fullfill you forum handle prophecy.
__________________http://i47.tinypic.com/120qyd4.jpg_______________

There are two eating away at my bank account and that's why I went with Poor House Next handle.

Fullfillment may just be a few checks away...

As no government bailout funds are being used and since I am not doing any of the work myself, but outsourcing work to local USA shops, I just look at this as my personal stimulus of economy by injecting money directly to people that want to work for it, rather than goverment redistribution of my wealth to those who don't want to have to earn it to get it...

I've been trying to get this one finished for 2 years. It's stock body 66 with LS 7 and a 6L80E 6 speed auto. I quit tracking it's cost 6 months into project...:willy:

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA151307.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA151314.jpg

I have been keeping up on your coke bottle project, but do you have another thread on your ls7/4l80 project, I have missed it. I am slowly gathering parts for my 64 conversion to start about this time next year but it won't be as stout as yours.

You have 2 great projects.

Little early for Eastern time, at least you know you are not the only one up already.

I wasn't up yet. You have to go to bed first to get up, I was still up worrying about the Poor house....:lol:

Here is link to thread. You can see only change to it since my last post on it, is they got the carpet in and other day they did bolt on the decklid and straighten up front bumper alignment. It's moving at the pace of a dead snail..:toetap:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...peed-auto.html

Wow, Poorhousenext, that red is stunning!

-- Joe

Joe,

It's not red. It was suppose to be, but due to painter going against what color primer we agreed on it went Burgundy / Brandywine color.

Florescent lights play tricks with it. I don't post pictures were it looks closer to it's real color. I've never seen the car in sunlight, only a door but it was darker than pictures show.

I call it "Vampire Blood Red" cause you don't want to go out in it until after midnight and you don't want to be caught in it after Sunrise, cause you'll wish you were dead.:nono:

It started out as Yamaha motorcycle 134, but due to trying to clone that to a 2 stage paint, it went darker and then even darker with red primer instead of grey.

Here is a picture that is a little closer to it's true color....:o

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...60133Small.jpg

WOW ......:eek:

Glad to see some work getting done. You have the vert done by knoxville?

That color reminds me of the old candy apple red, brandywine I've seen is darker that that. Anyway you look at it its a cool color.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^http://i48.tinypic.com/2igk8zk.jpg^^^^^^^^^^^

No, the Vert is being done in N. Georgia, near Calhoun.

Because they only work on it when they want to, I gave up on them and took the Coupe to B-Rod or Custom in Knoxville, TN.

That's were the Scope Creep in project came from. Went from stock body to custom body with a little push from them....:D I almost knew what I was getting into before we started.;)

Project may have one more item of scope creep, but only if I can get what I call the benefit of it. To do it just for the cool look does not interest me without doing the real cool benefit part too.

:UI just hope in sun the color doesn't look like it does when I used a flash.

No flash.:thumbs:

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...PA151307-1.jpg

Flash used.:U

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA151306.jpg

No Flash.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA151308.jpg

Flash used.:U

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA151305.jpg

PS: Beach Dude: I'm not up early, I couldn't sleep cause today is another Pay The Piper day...LOL

He told me he was never in the Navy are any other branch of Service.

He may be like a friend of mine who on trip to Europe this year met an Australian couple, that did a double take when they saw him walking on board ship. They thought a man husband worked with was on same holiday trip as them.

Seems he looked and walked just like the man husband worked with, down to long hair in ponytail and pot gut.

When they got home, they send him a picture and video of man. Damn if they did not look and walk alike. Seem we all may have a double somewhere.:ack:

Well I made it to pay the Piper today. Would normally gone up on Thursday, but Shop has gone back to 5 8 Hr days instead of 4 10s. Also lost 16 hours of work due to Allstate being out sick. Worked out on as got some pictures I would not have gotten had he made a full week.

Left side of car was dissembled when I got there, and shortly after arriving they removed the front end so changes for lower right fender vent area could be started on Monday.

The Left hand door has been glassed back up inside and out and ready for finish work.
Inside of door.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC110071.jpg

Rear view of door. You may be able to see how much lower portion of door skin was moved outward.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC110067.jpg

Lower view of door.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC110070.jpg

Door lock pillar/sill has been glassed back in and ready to be finished.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC110058.jpg

View of door lock pillar looking forward.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC110032.jpg

This picture of stretched rear 1/4 panel bonding panel may give you an idea of how much the back of the rear 1/4 panel was stretched outward.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC110033.jpg

While I was there, Allstate (nickname) made cuts on right had door to stretch it. Not pretty looking.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC110036.jpg

Picture looking down into inside of door after cutting to give you and idea how far out door skin is being moved.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC110064.jpg

Cuts filled in so door skin can be glassed over, and just after I paid the Piper Allstate was grinding filler down in preparation for glassing outer skin.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC110066.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC110075.jpg

Had them do one last test clearance test of wheel and tire to make sure it would not hit under full compression. As you can see from pictures, no worries there as coil over has been removed to get and idea of max possible wheel travel and we still have 1.5" of clearance between tire and Frame/Body and 1/2" between 1/4 panel. No problem going to 11.0" rims and 315 tire...LOL

Max Down travel.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC110043.jpg

Max up outside.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC110045.jpg

Max up inside. You can see control arm is hitting sway-bar.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC110046.jpg

By the way, if you go back and look at my prior post showing stretching rear 1/4, you will see the body line is flat between front and rear of wheel well opening. Rendering shows this area to have same curvature as front fender in this area. Allstate didn't let me down.

The front and rear have same contour now achieving the Coke bottle look, or as cars designer says, Sophia Loren look. Being a real Southern Redneck, I told him it was Dolly Parton look as Dolly had here bust enlarged like car's fenders, while Sophia's was aw natural.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC110060.jpg

By the way, I'm surprised no one as jumped me about all the sheet metal screws holding everything in place, like some of the post on threads where pictures have been posted of people doing this to hold parts instead of clamping. Course there is still the use of those handy wooden paint stirrers.

In case anyone is questioning their use, everything has to be held tightly in place, like front end so they stay in place as they are being modified and will fit back in place when they are finished and ready to be bonded on. You cannot just clamp them in place as if you were bonding new stock parts on. When stretching things, clamps would just slip off unless You had one about every 2.0" and then you couldn't work around them.;)

If the screw hole is beveled out before filling, it will never show anyway. I used to do it that way every time. Not so much anymore though.

You gotta go with what works:thumbs:

Last 2 weeks have been a slow go.

Between shop trying to get another customer's car delivered, another one painted and short work week, there's been limited time for my car.

They did get left rear qtr panel bonded on, right door completed, right qtr panel stretched and ready to bond on, rear tail light panel modified for adding third taillight to each side, and right front fender's vent duct made, front fender stretched and cut out to install it.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC240090.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC240094.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC240095.jpg

Verified Body line on left & right side with laser level. First time with frame leveled wheels off the ground and below shot with car back on wheels and level a Bubble off like car's owner....because he forgot to have lights turned off when car was on jack stands....:willy:

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC240088.jpg

Misc shots of work.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...PC170079-2.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...PC170078-2.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC170082.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...PC170081-2.jpg

How to handle Rocker Molding was decided Thursday. We will try and make it look like the rocker panel in Rendering. Making the Rocker Panel is a not a big deal, but we will have to modify the bottom of Rear Qtrs, Doors and Front Fender to smooth the transition between them and Rocker Panels. It's a Restomod so might as well update that area to look more modern. Makes it easy to cover with Clearstatic too.;)

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...frt-new2-1.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...frt-new2-1.jpg

These look very similar to the Mercedes SL-series cowl-vent spears. Rather than fabricate new one-off spears (one-off = $$$), I would obtain the spears through Mercedes then mod the body-work from the design, as necessary, to work with those.

The inspiration for the spears and Z06 style vent came from existing C6 styling parts. They aren't cheap and I'm guessing the Mercedes SL series spears aren't either. Chrysler use similar but plastic spears on their small 2 seater sports car.

http://www.mamotorworks.com/captions...096/648096.jpg

Plan was to just cut 6 identical ones, 3 at a time out of 1/4" 6061 Aluminum.

After playing with different heights and length due to the vent protruding out to point you could see opening looking from back of car and with them starting before vent opening, they stuck out where you saw them looking straight down from above, even with the fender stretched out wards.

They just seem too fat and too detracting, so we abandoned that styling and went back to plan B spears, that are available, cheaper, and less detracting, at least to me and that of car's other design influence, Larry Burchett.

Vent modified to support using C1 Spears.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC110056.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030009.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030008.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC030020.jpg

Using them also gave me something off C1, C4 and C6 on car.

We are toying with idea of using C3 sport mirrors and that would give me something from it other than using color & grain of leather and plush carpet from 82 year model.

If I can make a legit claim that the A4 4L65 automatic I'm using is same part number used in C5's, I'd have it covered too. If not maybe I can mount C5's interior rear view mirror to cover it....:lol:

*= Tentative.

C1 = Spears
C2 = Birdcage, Top Fiberglass piece & 67 Stinger Hood
*C3= Sport mirrors
C4 = Suspension
*C5= A4 Transmission
C6 = Seats and LS3 engine.


http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...portmirrow.jpg

Just hope I can get car finished before C7's are released.....:rofl:

Must say this is car really comes out great:thumbs:

Waiting fore more news and pictures:)

Well it is getting a little closer.

You will be able to see what curing does to the glass and primer in some of the pictures, since as it cures it moves . By curing all the fresh glassed areas, it could just keep paint from moving first time car is exposed to sun's heat on a nice hot day.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160153.jpg

The body from doors back is ready to be blocked and sanded and any inconsistencies in body work from side to side corrected.

Hope the below pictures show what shop has accomplished on what we hope is better front and rear wheel well coverage of wide tires not seen using current aftermarket rear quarter panels.

This was the primary goal of trying to reinvent them with a REV 2 revision of wide tire rear quarter panel, along with trying to maintain basic flow of stock C2 body between door and quarter panel too.

Since The Saint likes to see pictures, I'll load him and everyone else who is following build up with all the ones I took today trying to make sure I covered all the new angles and curves.

To tired to pick out just the best ones in bunch...LOL So blame all your eye strain on The Saint and not my vanity...;)

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160134.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160135.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160136.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160137.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160138.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160139.jpg

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http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160141.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160142.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160143.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160144.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160145.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160146.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160147.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160148.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160149.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160151.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160152.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160154.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1160155.jpg

:cool:...... very :cool:

You have a lot of talent :thumbs:

Doug

The car really comes out great:thumbs:
Real fun to see the car in one colour after the modifycations:)
And i must say you got it absolutely right if you ask me.
The choice of wheels for the car is spot on
I cant wait to see the front on the car:)This is one car i really enjoy to follow.
Keep those pics coming:thumbs:

Really nice stuff. I see you have an early 64, by the door handle areas.

making good progress! thanks for the update pics!

:lurk:

Doug,

Thanks for the complement, but truth is I have no talent but that of being able to recognize it in others. In this case Larry Burchett and P.J. Burchett.

Only work I have done on project so far is that of grabing hold of front and rear of left hand quarter panel wheel well, showing them, yes it could be pulled out that far and I could hold it in position while they clamped and or shimmed it to hold that position....:lol:

Larry came up with the body changes that I could accept so I would go along with his vision, which was to build the car around a set of 10.0" wide rims/wheels with a lot of hoop showing.

I didn't like his choice of wheels and he didn't like mine, that is until I found those Schott Wheels that fit vision in his mind.

Next came my vision for changing the 64 lower fender to add vent shown in final rendering.

Base design was done, but could it be accomplished. That's where PJ Burchett came in. He looked at design and said I can do that, including the from scratch vent in lower front fenders.

Larry Burchett, B-Rod or Custom owner is the man with plaid shirt in couple of pictures in last update post.

P.J. Burchett, co-owner and Fiberglass/Metal work magician.
P.J. is the young man in prior posted pictures doing the grinding on left from vent and holding rocker panel in another pictures.

They are the talent.

Link to B-Rod or Custom website if you are anyone else wants to see some more of their designing and bodywork.

http://www.b-rodorcustom.com/

in the photos, is the blonde woman your boss, the one in the white jacket and black turtle neck? She didn't look happy......maybe the $$$ being spent?

Great project for sure......I know what it is like to write checks for body work....I got numb to writing checks over $5k each after a while which is bad, because as I went I didnt even flinch at prices any more......

Please keep sharing the photos and the progress...:cool:

The Lady in picture is not my boss and the teenager in picture is her son. They were there with her husband, who already has a couple of Street Rods, and looking to have another built.

From questions she asked about car and when she found out I was owner, if I was going to be going to be showing it, I gathered that they showed their cars. She asked about exterior color(s) I was going to paint it and what my plans were for interior, etc.

I understand what you mean about being numb about what your spending. I don't even bother to track what it's costing me. Doesn't really matter, as I don't plan on selling it.

I do have to say, I never started out to do a build like this. All I started out to do was just leave the body stock, except for lower fender vent treatment, install stock interior, bolt it on a Street shop Inc fame with Ls engine an A4 trans and drive it.

Another man's vision became mine too....:yesnod:

my significant other says its my money and as long as I can afford it, it isn't illegal or immoral it is ok with her.....it is also fortunate that she thinks the size of the garage is more important than the size of the kitchen......hence why we have soooo much garage space and 4 post lifts.

Good thing she isn't your significant other, she just didnt look happy in the photo.....

I was at Super Chevy this past year with my 1960 and there was a 67 triple black BB next to me and the woman asked me a bunch of questions about trophy's etc. I was there to enjoy the day but it was clear she was there for hardware. They did get editors top 20 pick and they won their class on Saturday but they didnt win best Corvette on Sunday. Too bad she just didnt enjoy the weekend for what it was. I love sitting and watching people go past my car and then backing up when they see the motor and then standing and staring for a while as they try to figure out what they are looking at. And then of course there is the electric hood opener I installed with remote control....that is a blast to work while they are there too. If hardware comes, so be it, but it is just a blast to watch people, I get the biggest kick out of that.

And I understand about not ever starting out to build the car you are now building. I have to laugh. When I started my 60 I was going to build a really fun car and not push the build. I don't have a bunch of chrome underneath, but had I known what the car was going to turn out like there would be a ton of it and I would have done things a bit different.

As the body starting turning out better and better I found myself cussing under my breathe at Harry at Amherst Cars. I told it was his fault that I was now putting more and more money into the rest of the build of the car because he was doing such a nice job on the body and the paint. I decided to go for a different kind of intake and things just got out of hand.

I am happy with what I have and have driven it in the rain (at Carlisle this past summer) as well as some other shows in the Cleveland area. I have decided to take it back to the Cleveland Autorama this March once I get the hard top redone. That is in process and after looking at the money I have into it and it isn't even back together, I would have money or at least stress ahead by buying a finished top from Glassworks. Yes I would have paid a bit more for it, bit it would be done. Right now I have a bunch of pieces and hopefully next week I get back the SS from the polisher and begin the assembly. I also bought a power brake setup (more $$$$) because I didnt like the pedal feel of the manual 4 wheel disc brakes. Hopefully this helps that.

And then of course there is the problem with leg room versus belly room:ack:. Mike Colletta moves the point where the column pierces the firewall down about 3 inches to gain a bit more knee clearance. I had good knee clearance but poor belly clearance with my original column set up and have since gone to a different column that gains more belly clearance but not my knee hits the steering wheel when I press the clutch. Hence to gain even 1/4 to 1/2 inch for my knee is worth the hassle of moving the piece point on the firewall. But that is after the show.

So my point to this is that they never seem like they are done. If it isn't one thing it is something else that you will want to change or adjust....the beauty of making it your car is you can do what ever you want and because it is yours and you only need to satisfy yourself you never have to worry about what others think!

Enjoy the build, I can still remember when I brought the body home from the paint shop....WOW what a feeling.....I know you will have a very similar feeling when you bring your home too!

I never have a look of how much money i spend on my cars.
Probably the best:eek:

Herb,

The only thing I regret is not using at least the 6L80E 6 speed auto in this car, rather than the in the 66.

I'm still thinking about it and that's bad. If TCI would sell their 6 sp auto at a reasonalble price, I might try it. It cost nearly twice as much as I paid for brand new 6L80E from GM.

While doing some research the other day, I ran across and article about AL Knocks retro seats for C1s in Auto Trader. They were designed just for helping with problem you described.

In case you are not aware of them, here's the article.

MORE ROOM FOR BIG PEOPLE IN SMALL CORVETTES

C1 Corvettes aren’t the roomiest cars on the road. Al Knoch Interiors got lots of requests to alter C1 seats for greater legroom and more space between middle age spreads and steering wheels. In response to this demand Al Knoch developed their AOK Retro Seats. These seats look like C1 seats, but the seat frames and foam cushions have been totally redesigned to provide several extra inches of interior room. Al Knoch puts the increase at 25%.

The new seats position the driver farther back and lower. The seats can be had with a reclining feature and they can be heated. The seats are available in factory patterns and colors as well as custom upholstery. Matching door panels and dash pads are available with the custom upholstered seats.

http://www.alknochinteriors.com/aokretroseats.htm

yup, got the A Knochs AOK seats...got a 15.5" steering wheel......

http://images31.fotki.com/v1084/phot...69Small-vi.jpg

they help....but don't solve everything....

Maybe,,,,,,,Jenny Craig then :D

You can use my name with them. I've been with her for so many years, I get a 30% dicount on food....:rofl:

That is nice...but not $ure I can afford to look? Charley :thumbs:

This weeks update doesn't have much new to show, except for bland picture of Door sill glassed up.:thud:

Shop is suppose to be down to one last primer sanding before final primer for paint. They shot that primer coat just before going home for week. So it would be ready to sand on Monday.

They also attached the front end back on and should start doing the lower right hand fender vent modification on it. With any luck that should be finished next week.

That leaves the making the lower rocker panels the only "known" body mod left to do. There still may be one more mod to do. Want known until front end is bonded on and hood put in place to see if we will try doing it.

Like to thank all the members here that have posted a "Thumb's Up" on projects concept. Your comments are mood booster that keep me plugging along on it, paying the Piper as I go.:thumbs:

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1220157.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1220163.jpg

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http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1220173.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1220174.jpg

Herb - that interior is SLICK! :thumbs:

Jere - I love the outcome of your car so far - I'm sure it will feel great to see the whole body together again, can't wait for the pics! I agree with the guy in the last photo - f'yeah! :thumbs:

:cheers:

Looking good! Can't wait for mine to get in that state.

That said, I just returned from Sermersheim's. After a >12 hour day on the road I have a brand spanking new front end for my 'vette.

-- Joe

What a fantastic project. Looking forward to the next update!

Thats one good looking car:thumbs:

Looking forward to see the car with the front end on it:)

First of week up date for a change. This time it' an interior item, Gage Cluster.

Probably going to step on some toes with my thoughts on 63-64 gages and even but I'll assume we are all entitled to our opinions, so member's opinions are welcome too.

I've always thought GM did a bad job on 63-64 gage look. IMHO they just don't have a Sport Car look to them.

For me that changed in 1965 when them changed design to one that even today, does not look dated like 63-64 gages that looked that way from day one to me.

Back in the day all black of gage cluster was OK. In fact they were OK, until I started looking at different gage face colors for my motorcycle back in 2002, and seeing what automakers were doing with colors on there gages.

Since I prefer the design of stock 65-67 C2's, and to me look better than any aftermarket gages installed in cluster, I chose to swap out my 64 gages for 65-67 ones. Course if you want are need more gage read outs, then your only choice is to use after market gages. They will also save you a lot of money over restored stock ones and even more if you are going to be using an LS FI engine.

At 2007 Fall Corvette expo there was a Restomod there with 65-67 gage cluster that had been restored with white face gages. Changed the look of gage cluster and made driver's side dash stand out more. Had not see that done before, but then again I had just back into getting out to see what was going on the Corvette world again, because of wanting to update my 66 convertible.

Problem with them was the white was to appliance white. Ask owner who had done his gages. He told me, so I decided I would go to the 2008 Kissimee show and talk with him, and look for parts I needed.

What I wanted to talk about was if he would restore the gages with a Sliver face instead of Black or White. He was not real keen on doing that, but finally agreed to do it. Then he asked did I want speedo re-screened to a 200 MPH readout. I bought into that one real quick as there was no extra charge for it. Course the car can't do 200 MPH, but neither can a lot of other cars with 200 MPH readout speedo's...:D

Apologize for my bad photography. Had to shoot pictures in room with poor lighting so it was hard to get shots with flash without glare.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1250207.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1250190.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1250199.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1250209.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P1250210.jpg

PS: Word of warning.

If you plan on using stock gages on your restomod and can't use your stock Fuel Sending unit in tank, then you need to use Fuel gage mechanism from 68-69 with C2 stock face installed on it so it will read correctly.

I really like the looks of the gauge face's. the 200 mph speedometer doesn't hurt either.:thumbs:

When I bought my stainless steel tank, I was able to request the 0-30 ohm sending unit.

So I was able to use the stock gauge but I went with the white background.

I did have to update the tach to electronic.

Great looking car!

http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/42...600x600Q85.jpg

Chuck,

Now you have me confused. Based on link to below article on C2 fuel gage, it is 90 ohm and I was under the impression it needed a 90 ohm fuel sending unit to work.

My problem is stock sending unit mounts in bottom of stock tank. My tank is made to mount sending unit in top oft tank to limit chance of it leaking.

My understanding is no one makes a 90 ohm sending unit that is wired like C2's that can be mounted from top of tank. Same goes for 30 ohm.

Do you just use one wire and with 30 ohm sending unit and it reads correct?

Mine will only read 1/2 with one wire and 90 ohm sending unit. Reads correct if tested with stock sending unit.

http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...rFuelGauge.pdf

Hope you get to finish your project.

I am guessing he bought a stainless steel tank with in tank fuel pump as well as having the ability to specify the tank sender. Rock Valley lets you specify what type of sender you want. 0-30 or 0-90.

http://www.rockvalleyantiqueautopart...ding_units.pdf

I have Rock Valley in my C1 and will use them for my C2.....

white gauges
 

Chuck,

Remembered your gauges when you thought about selling you car. Those and the white ones on Jerry's "King Ray".
Gave me incentive to have Roger Scott do my '64's in white. They been at his place for a while but will get them end of Feb(I was not in a big hurry).

Jim
:)

Your 61 uses a one wire 30 ohm sending unit so it's not a problem to buy aftermarket 30 ohm sending unit if they didn't make tank to mount your stock sending.

Your C2 uses a one off design from 63-67 that is 90 ohm.

Rock Valley is who told me I would need 68-69 gage mechanism with my gage face to get a working stock looking fuel gage because it would work with common aftermarket 1 wire 90 ohm sending units that would bolt into tank.

Due to GM use of a power wire to sending unit on C2 only and not being able to mount stock sending unit. Hence them telling me to use 68-69 fuel gage as it has same needle style.

I'm sorry, I meant 0-90 ohm sending unit. I did get the Rock Valley tank and it has the connections (3) to connect to the stock gauge.

Jim,

Roger Scott did a great job!

http://inlinethumb62.webshots.com/29...600x600Q85.jpg


Chuck

Chuck,

Is you sending unit mounted on bottom of tank same as stock, if so then sending unit is probably a stock one?

If not can you tell me who made the sending unit and if visable what the part number is?

Shop sent me some pictures of car they took, too try and get me to come up today and pay them for the last two weeks of work.:willy:

This time front end is on car and front bumpers have been fitted so they can fit front Spoiler.

You may noticed that on rear, they have also been playing with trying to fit left rear bumper. Will be interesting to find out if they have found a way to fit Rear Bumpers without having to section them or at the least make pie cuts to them.

You can also see that they have started to work on trying to make rocker panels too fit up with the body changes. Stock ones want work due to new curvature difference between rear quarter panel, door and front fender.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e-64/BROD2.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e-64/BROD3.jpg

Found out today that they will be making/forming the Rocker Panels out of metal, rather than glass.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e-64/BROD4.jpg

[IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh276/jere-64/BROD5.jpg[/IMG

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e-64/BROD7.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e-64/BROD8.jpg


Didn't get lucky with stock rear bumper fitting. Looks like that 1/2 inch the rear end grew on each side got me.

We just couldn't get the quarter panels back to original stock contour soon enough.

They had to make a pie shape cut about 1/2 inch wide to fit it. It could have been worst, we were afraid it might have to be cut in two and a section welded in.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e-64/BROD3.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P2050211.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P2050212.jpg

Maybe the car will be one color in next couple of weeks if I'm lucky.

Sorry for the long delay. It has the stock sending unit in the bottom. I liked the idea as I can hook up a line for nitrous or use it to drain the tank for racing fuel.

Chuck

Chuck,

When I paid closer attention to your Rock Valley tank an compared it to mine, I saw that opening for fuel sending unit had to be in bottom of tank like stock where opening for in on my tank is on top, so you didn't have a problem using stock C2 fuel gage.

Just want to let those that are following my build know there are no new pictures again this week.

Project's Scope Creep to date has cause me to rethink drive train capability.

Current plan to use 4L65E with ISS upgrade with LS3 480 HP crate engine may change.

That change would be to go to 4L80E based transmission that would add around 100 lbs of extra weight to car. It would be capable of handing engine with 850 HP at crank should at a later date I want to upgrade engine. It also has redesigned valve body that allows for engine braking on decel are downshifts.

Should be able to handle abuse of drag racing, auto cross, or road race tracks should I want to do some track days with car.

In other words, it should be capable of being driven like a manual trans without the clutch. I know a lot of you think a Corvette has to have a stick shift, so mine will, but I'm hoping to prove you don't have to have 3 pedals to make one perform like a manual trans Sports Car....LOL

I did think about using Keisler's clutch-less shifting 6 speed (only use clutch to take off in first} but I know how much modification has to be done to fit it, and I would still have problem using clutch if caught in stop and go traffic.

We've found a loaner 4L80E to use next week to see if it can be installed without modifying floor pan are if not how involved it would be to fit it. Has a long wide pan on it and is a little longer than the 4L65E. Will make decision depending on what if any modifications will have to be made to floor pan to fit it.

If it not cost prohibitive to go with it, we will have to see if an automatic can compete heads up with you die hard manual shifters.,....;) I got nothing to lose if it doesn't, but a lot of fun if it does...:D

GM should offer a model along these lines, alongside the C6 or C7. Like Coke, they could call it Corvette Classic. Bet they'd have to put on a second shift in Bowling Green!

Thanks for the update, Verbal updates are cool too, Has anybody ever been able to do a project without some amount of creep involved?

Took a few pictures when I went to pay the Piper this week. We have held damn close to Last Rendering.

Vent Spears are one of the minor differences, along with fairing out the rear quarter panel and door to center of door to try and make the body look stock, looking directly at car from side.

If we had left the 64 lower fenders stock, I believe you would be hard pressed to know something was not quite right from a distance, with exception of the Rocker Panels.

Car is suppose to be in Final Primer by Friday of next week. That's a week late due to having to replace left headlight bucket, due to damage to original one. Plan is not to paint it until around the first week in April. Shop ask me to let them take the Primed Body to Corvette EXPO last week in March is reason it want be painted until April.

Rocker panel has been fabed an installed, but I'm having them change radius at front bottom corner to start transition higher up on it, to try for a more flowing look. You may be able to see green tape outlining the change.

I also decided to go back to original paint color choice rather that go with VW Antigua Blue with Reflux Sliver Stinger.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P2260217.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P2260223.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P2260224.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P2260225.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...frt-new2-1.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P2260222.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P2260220.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P2260233.jpg

I am very surprised at the rate of progress this shop has made, They keep working away (course, weekly installments help motivate them I am sure).

Nothing wrong with letting the primers cure before applying the base coat in April.

Thanks for the update.

I was having my doubts, well not anymore:thumbs: Looking great!