Yes!! anti-seize on the bolts. Thanks Gary!

I soaked the bolts in PB blaster, but still cut the #4 and #5 bolts. The #1 and # 8 bolts just broke. Difficulty.... I would give it a 7 but I'm just an amature. The paint is OK but I want a show quality job like yours! Thanks for the kind comments!

Nice pics,thats a thing i need to do on mine too,great to see some pics of the process :thumbs:

I've had the poly mounts for my car for over a year now. Sooner or later I'll get around to changing them. Thanks for this thread, I'm sure it will be a big help to me.

You never told me hom many swear words were used?

I lost track. :willy:

Very nice job! Mine are in pretty good condition but I would like to replace the #4s. How do you get a wrench on those top nuts? After using a penetrating oil of course.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v155/Buffy97/4s.jpg

Honestly I think it's a waste of time to salvage those nuts on the #4 and #5 mounts. That's why I cut the bolts and removed the flimsy cage nuts above. I replaced the cage nuts with a regular nut, large washer, lock washer and large neoprene washer.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...r/100_0696.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...r/100_0692.jpg

#4 & #5, are those the rear mounts? If so, how did you get a nut inside the bracket? I just ran out to the garage and had a look. I can see my crusty body mounts and a nice bracket above them with no way to access the inside of the bracket. I assume that is where the cage nuts are that everyone despises?

Those cage nuts are probably rust-welded to the bolt. Pull the rear wheels and put a wrench on the bolt in the rear wheel well and they will twist right of their flimsy rivets on the inside. That's why I just cut the bolts and didn't bother replacing the cage nuts. (see previous pics).

I understand why you did away with the cage nut, I'm asking how did you get to the topside of the bolt after it was inserted through everything? Can you see the top of that bracket from inside the car?

Yes you can see the top side of the bolt. They are in each corner. You will need to remove the speakers and peel back the carpt a bit.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...r/100_0697.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...r/100_0696.jpg

OK, so you get at that nut from the inside of the car?

Yes. :yesnod:

Very cool. This will come in handy when I do mine.

Rudolph,

This has been a very informative and useful thread. Thank you!

Just a quick question to all the smart people following this threat.

At what point do you torque the body mounts?

Is it when the car is on all fours or when it's up on the lift?

:iagree:

Bookmarked this thread

Thank you very much for the writeup and pics, Rudolph. You do good work! I'm about to tackle this on my '76.

..took me 3 sawzall blades to get through one of the rear mounts, but I'll count my blessings as I had no cancer on either bracket :thumbs:

did it change the ride feel? if so how? did it change the look in ANY way? if so how? thx:lurk:

Looks like it sure needed them.. The previous owner had all the mounts changed in my 71 but they dont look at all like your setup, they are 3/8 thick aluminum spacers with 1-2 thin shims on top, they are between the frame and body with just a washer on top. are these solid mounts I have seen mentioned in here? how crappy will that ride? how thick did yours end up after tightening? wont only 3/8 sit the body down lower than original and cause issues some where? thanks anybody..