Clutch stuff
 

Ok, so I need some help.

Heres the problem: On Saturdays practice, lap 2, I downshift into 3rd in turn 1 and the clutch sticks to the floor. I pull it up with my toes and it keeps doing it on downshifts. I managed to bandaid it to last the weekend, but its pretty much toast I guess. Downshifts require a lot more effort even at low RPMS, and when youre stopped, depress the clutch and put it in 1st the car lurches forward a bit.

I'm pretty sure its a hydraulic problem.

Now here's my question. I was told that you have to pull the torque tube/tranny to bleed the slave. If that is the case, I might as well replace the clutch, so QUESTION #1, is that correct? I seem to recall that all you have to do is drop the exhaust, but I'm not sure.

If it is, then I'm basically relegated to a SPEC clutch or a stocker because of funding issues. :lol: Which way should I go?

The factory bleeder is a joke, you'll have to pull the torque tube to access it. There's a bolt in this pic where the OEM bleeder goes, but you get the point. Install a remote bleeder line while you are in there!
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...dz06/slave.jpg

To drop the torque tube and tranny you'll need to drop the rear cradle. It'll look like this (sans engine of course).
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...drivetrain.jpg

Good time to do a bunch of other stuff while you are there (diff axle seals, etc)

BTW I'll be testing a new ceramic ball bearing throw out bearing this season, built by a friend who works at pratt and whitney as a ceramics engineer. I ran a variant he built on another race car years back, and he's built a C5 version for me to test. According to him it runs 40% cooler on the bench. Should help keep some heat out of the fluid.

Have you considered the LS7 clutch?

If you are removing the torque tube, MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE you replace the slave cylinder and install a remote bleeder. Otherwise you may end up right where you are now, with the clutch pedal stuck on the floor.

Frank Gonzalez

^^ not to mention replace the pilot bearing and wrap all the hydraulic lines in heat shielding... heck, might as well replace the TT couplers while you're in there.

The place to start is cleaning up the clutch fluid via the master cylinder reservoir.

Read the lead post and watch the video.

If this doesn't work, the next step is replacing just the master cylinder.

If that doesn't work, you'll need to dig into the car.

Ranger

Ranger, changed the reservoir fluid about 6 times over the race weekend. That along with removing the clutch pedal helper spring was the bandaid that allowed me to run.

The stock clutch has been in there for probably 5 years or so.

I think at this point I'm just going to:

spec stage 3, alu pressure plate, alu flywheel
new slave with drill mod
remote bleeder line

now to raid the bank account... :ack:

If the fluid had never been changed, 6-swaps is way short of getting it clear. Typical would be 10-20 times. Worth a try. I'd drive the car every 2-3 changes. Don't stop until the fluid is really clean and stays clean. If you've given up on that....

If you're within 25 rwhp of stock, you might look at the stock LS6 clutch. It is very robust and battle tested.

Regarding clutch parts, if you are in there, replace everything including the throw-out bearing and the pinion. Plus all new bolts.

Ranger

Wally - the same thing happened to me at VIR last year...it resulted in the clutch completely going. It started with shifts being very hard...then I lost the ability to go into reverse. I had the whole thing replaced and all new hydraulics.

I did the spec 3 with aluminum fly and pressure plate...stock master and slave (new of course). Tick performance has some upgraded parts that might be worth looking into.

So everything is undone, all I have to do is unbolt the rear cradle and lower that sucker down. So far the most painful part was disconnecting the slave quick-connect line.

http://dc-racing.com/images/ttube.jpg
http://dc-racing.com/images/jack.jpg
http://dc-racing.com/images/susp.jpg

Same thing happened to me...and I did the ranger method... removed the assist spring... did the drill mod....saw a witch doctor....prayed to clutch gods and nothing worked. I ended up putting in a Centerforce 12" DFC clutch (pressure plate and disk) which is cheap by the way, like 500.00, got a new slave and the remote clutch bleeder and NO issues at all since.

http://www.centerforce.com/clutches....ption=clutches

oh, and I've already ordered the SPEC stuff. Should make the car a whole new animal.

Wally - while you're taking pics and have the car in the air, can you post or send me a pic of your exhaust hangers in the rear?

I'll do it tomorrow while im dropping the drivetrain.

I didn't tell you a tall tale about dropping the rear cradle just to get to the slave cylinder. PUT THE REMOTE BLEEDER IN!!! Fix the throttle actuator too. And they are right. Do axle output seals while there. New O-rings on the housing as well.

See you at VIR. Stop in and say g-bye next time ya Schmuck!
Bob

danggg, someones a little sensitive. :lol::lol:

I just keep adding more and more things to my list.... :ack:

For future reference you can bleed it with it still in the car. I did it on my 2001 on jackstands. A real PITA but can be done. When I put the new LS7 and aluminum flywheel in my 2003 street car I put in the remote bleeder. Race car will get a remote bleeder when it needs a clutch.

The remote bleeder is cheap...like 30 bucks and really worth it. While you have it all apart you might as well do it right.

that was on the list from the get go. These diff seal things are pretty expensive (17 bucks a piece) for OEM stuff.

meh, whatever, for as much work is it is to pull all this junk out, I might as well do the easy stuff.