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Heres the problem: On Saturdays practice, lap 2, I downshift into 3rd in turn 1 and the clutch sticks to the floor. I pull it up with my toes and it keeps doing it on downshifts. I managed to bandaid it to last the weekend, but its pretty much toast I guess. Downshifts require a lot more effort even at low RPMS, and when youre stopped, depress the clutch and put it in 1st the car lurches forward a bit.
I'm pretty sure its a hydraulic problem.
Now here's my question. I was told that you have to pull the torque tube/tranny to bleed the slave. If that is the case, I might as well replace the clutch, so QUESTION #1, is that correct? I seem to recall that all you have to do is drop the exhaust, but I'm not sure.
If it is, then I'm basically relegated to a SPEC clutch or a stocker because of funding issues. Which way should I go?
The factory bleeder is a joke, you'll have to pull the torque tube to access it. There's a bolt in this pic where the OEM bleeder goes, but you get the point. Install a remote bleeder line while you are in there!
To drop the torque tube and tranny you'll need to drop the rear cradle. It'll look like this (sans engine of course).
Good time to do a bunch of other stuff while you are there (diff axle seals, etc)
BTW I'll be testing a new ceramic ball bearing throw out bearing this season, built by a friend who works at pratt and whitney as a ceramics engineer. I ran a variant he built on another race car years back, and he's built a C5 version for me to test. According to him it runs 40% cooler on the bench. Should help keep some heat out of the fluid.
If you are removing the torque tube, MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE you replace the slave cylinder and install a remote bleeder. Otherwise you may end up right where you are now, with the clutch pedal stuck on the floor.
^^ not to mention replace the pilot bearing and wrap all the hydraulic lines in heat shielding... heck, might as well replace the TT couplers while you're in there.
If this doesn't work, the next step is replacing just the master cylinder.
If that doesn't work, you'll need to dig into the car.
Ranger
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Ranger, changed the reservoir fluid about 6 times over the race weekend. That along with removing the clutch pedal helper spring was the bandaid that allowed me to run.
The stock clutch has been in there for probably 5 years or so.
I think at this point I'm just going to:
spec stage 3, alu pressure plate, alu flywheel
new slave with drill mod
remote bleeder line
Ranger, changed the reservoir fluid about 6 times over the race weekend. That along with removing the clutch pedal helper spring was the bandaid that allowed me to run.
The stock clutch has been in there for probably 5 years or so.
I think at this point I'm just going to:
spec stage 3, alu pressure plate, alu flywheel
new slave with drill mod
remote bleeder line
now to raid the bank account...
If the fluid had never been changed, 6-swaps is way short of getting it clear. Typical would be 10-20 times. Worth a try. I'd drive the car every 2-3 changes. Don't stop until the fluid is really clean and stays clean. If you've given up on that....
If you're within 25 rwhp of stock, you might look at the stock LS6 clutch. It is very robust and battle tested.
Regarding clutch parts, if you are in there, replace everything including the throw-out bearing and the pinion. Plus all new bolts.
Wally - the same thing happened to me at VIR last year...it resulted in the clutch completely going. It started with shifts being very hard...then I lost the ability to go into reverse. I had the whole thing replaced and all new hydraulics.
I did the spec 3 with aluminum fly and pressure plate...stock master and slave (new of course). Tick performance has some upgraded parts that might be worth looking into.
So everything is undone, all I have to do is unbolt the rear cradle and lower that sucker down. So far the most painful part was disconnecting the slave quick-connect line.
Same thing happened to me...and I did the ranger method... removed the assist spring... did the drill mod....saw a witch doctor....prayed to clutch gods and nothing worked. I ended up putting in a Centerforce 12" DFC clutch (pressure plate and disk) which is cheap by the way, like 500.00, got a new slave and the remote clutch bleeder and NO issues at all since.
I didn't tell you a tall tale about dropping the rear cradle just to get to the slave cylinder. PUT THE REMOTE BLEEDER IN!!! Fix the throttle actuator too. And they are right. Do axle output seals while there. New O-rings on the housing as well.
See you at VIR. Stop in and say g-bye next time ya Schmuck!
Bob
For future reference you can bleed it with it still in the car. I did it on my 2001 on jackstands. A real PITA but can be done. When I put the new LS7 and aluminum flywheel in my 2003 street car I put in the remote bleeder. Race car will get a remote bleeder when it needs a clutch.
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Which way should I go?
