How to: Dash removal and Hud install
 

In this thread is how to remove your dash and how to install a HUD: (for you mouse over people) :D

As I was searching the forum to find a set of instructions to remove the dash, I kept coming up with the same link:

http://home.comcast.net/~joshker99/hudinstall2.htm

Unfortunately that link no longer works. 2000-C5 however, saved a copy of it and emailed me a word document of it. I decided to upload all the pics and instructions and I'm reposting it here. If someone wants a copy of the word document, please feel free to email me. :thumbs: I don't know what happened to Josh's site and Josh, if you don't want me to host this info, please let me know and I'll delete it. :) ***I take NO CREDIT FOR THIS INFO!!! Josh did all the work on this, I'm just posting it!***I put this on my website as well, but I wanted a working copy for the forum so I put the whole thing here so if someone searches for 'dash removal' they'll find everything right here.

Also, the forum only allows 25 pics to be uploaded and there were 27 total so I removed some of the pics showing the different HUD display options as they aren't that important. Ok ok ok...enough talkin...here is the instructions :cheers:


For those not familiar with heads up display, You get 9 different ways to project critical info on your windshield, like speed, Tach, gas level, oil pressure, coolant temp, turn signals, high beam indicator, shift light indicator (6 Speeds) and check gages. You can control which are displayed, adjust the height of the projection on the windshield, and the intensity. Some are shown here:


Attachment 48163066
Attachment 48163067
Attachment 48163068
Attachment 48163069
Attachment 48163070



Heads up display wasn’t even offered until late 99, but for those who were not fortunate enough to get this way cool option here's the directions to install it yourself. It can even be retrofitted in a 97,98, Early 99, and 01 Z06 Corvette when it wasn't even an option. Its plug and play. Any confident installer can install it within an afternoon. The factory HUD cars have a special HUD windshield that is not necessary as the projections shown above are taken on my non-HUD glass in direct sunlight. Also all 97+ C5's have the pocket for the projector, and the outline for the dash to be cut.


The following are the necessary components needed HUD to work

• HUD projector - 10279814 - (GM LIST: $1,118.82) You will have to drill 2 small holes in the dash to mount it. Even the 97,'s and 98's have the seat for the projector
• HUD Projector Bezel - 10425223 - (GM LIST: $25.52) You will have to cut a hole in the dash and the bezel is there to cover the hole. Its very easy to do though because even the 97 and 98's have the cut marked out under the dash pad. The bezel simply covers the hole.
• HUD Enabled Cluster – This is a must for a 97-99 owner that currently doesn’t have a HUD enabled cluster. The cluster may be HUD ready or it could have come from a HUD equipped car. If it is only HUD ready you will need a HUD switch and 11 pin wiring harness.
• HUD Switch - Part # 12198648 (GM LIST: $124.04)
• The very important 11 Pin wiring harness which is not available from GM, you will have to find a harness, or you will have to build your own using your existing harness.

There are 2 different HUD install scenario's.

97, 98, or early 99 C5's without the HUD enabled cluster - You will need to get a late 99+ Cluster. The only way to tell whether you have the HUD enabled cluster is to remove the one you have and look for the white connector in the very back. If it doesn't already have the HUD Switch you will have to install one and find a 11 pin harness. If you need a HUD enabled cluster you will have to have it programmed with your existing mileage. I've heard ~$50 to do this, but contact your dealer. You will have to drill 3 holes to mount the projector, 2 in the plastic dash support, 1 in the aluminum column support. If you use a late 99-04 cluster you will also have to move the airbag warning light located next to the fuel gauge to the location on the Tach or else the light will remain lit al the time.
Late 99-04 C5's with a HUD enabled cluster - You will need the projector, dash bezel, switch and 11 Pin from the switch to cluster. You will have to drill only 2 holes in the plastic dash support, the third is already notched out.


Tools Necessary:

• A small assortment of flat headed screw drivers.
• Very sharp razor Blades
• Something to cut the plastic under the dash pad (Dremel tool, utility knife, angle grinder etc...)
• Something to drill mounting holes (I used a right angle electric screw driver with a 1/8" conical grinding bit)
• Torx T15 driver, or bit with compatible holder to use with 1/4" ratchet.
• 7mm socket and driver
• 10mm Socket with swivel and various extensions
• 1/4 ratchet for the 7mm socket
• Needle nose pliers
• 2 #10 rubber expansion nuts available from home improvement store (Lowe's, Home depot, Ace, Etc....)
• 2 Allen Screws for the expansion nuts. With proper Allen wrench.
• JB Quick Weld or similar to affix the bezel
• Clamps or similar to hold bezel
The install is pretty basic. If you have a roadster or coupe now is a great time to open the car up. This is also a great time to move both seats all the way back to allow your self plenty of room to work. I myself just completed this modification on my own 2000 Corvette on 8/5/03 and the pictures seen here are from my own install. These instructions are for a 2000 six speed coupe

Attachment 48163071

Attachment 48163072



Removing the Center Console:

1)Remove the center console. To do this you will need to open the console remove the little covers in the rear of the console to access the 2,10mm nuts. Remove these.

Attachment 48163073

2) Move up towards the front of the console bin. Insert a flat headed screw driver or similar to pop off the panel with the Traction Control / Active Handling.
3) Disconnect all wiring.
4) Remove the 2, 10mm nuts under the cover, at this point you need to disconnect the fuel door switch and the rear center console is ready to be removed.
5) To remove the front half you will need to remove the shifter knob, and pull out the ash tray.
5a.) To remove the shifter knob, first pry the black shift pattern diagram. Then you will need a pair of needle nose pliers or similar to pull the key out of the shaft before being able to spin the knob off. I'm assuming the A4 has a clip in the front of the knob that has to be pulled straight out before pulling off the knob.
6) There are 3, Torx 15 screws holding the front of the console in. These are located
• 1. Under the temperature sensor panel, located to the right of the steering wheel. Pop off the bezel with a flat headed screw driver. Disconnect the air temperature sensor (If equipped with the dual climate)
• 2. to the Left of the cigarette lighter
• 3. behind the ash tray

Attachment 48163074

7) At this point the center console pulls straight off. There are a few clips that still hold it in around the radio and climate control. Don't forget to disconnect the cigarette lighter by reaching around the back and pulling the connector off. With the center console completely removed, you are now ready to work on the panel under the steering column.


Preparing for Dash Pad Removal

8) Start by removing the Trunk release/fog light switch bezel, with a flat headed screw driver, disconnect wires. Remove the Torx 15 screw. Remove the 2, T15 screws located up top of the instrument panel directly above the steering wheel

Attachment 48163075

9) Look under the dash, towards the rear and remove the 2 T15 screws. At this point you’re ready to remove the lower steering column cover. Simply pull evenly towards the steering wheel; there are 2 clips that hold near the left hand upper corner.
10) You will need to remove the radio to help reach the hazard switch to disconnect when you start to remove the dash pad. Remove the 2, 7mm screws on each side of the radio and slide it out disconnecting all connectors from the back of the radio.
11) Take a flat headed screw driver and gently pry the defroster vent grill, Disconnect the sensor on the left side and twist the sensor loose on the right, now take your 7mm 1/4 ratchet and remove the 2 screws to the outsides of the defroster

Attachment 48163076

12) Remove the side pillars. To do this start from the top and pull towards the rear/center of the vehicle. Move down the pillar, there are 3 clips to completely disengage the pillars.
13) You are now ready to remove the rest of the dash pad 7mm screws. There are 2 on the top on the sides of the dash pad that were covered by the pillars. There is one on the passenger side of the dash near the hinge of the door, (look at the side of the dash with the door fully open) one near where the cluster resides on the drivers side, and the rest are visible around the stereo was

Attachment 48163077


Attachment 48163078


Attachment 48163079


15) Once all the screws are removed from the dash pad, gently pull the dash pad away from the window. Once moved enough disconnect the hazard switch connector. This is where you’re going to probably want a helper. Finish pulling the dash out of the car.


Attachment 48163080



Preparing for HUD installation

16) Its now time to drill the holes for the rubber expansion nuts or whatever you decided to use. I'm sure you could also use self tapping bolts if you can managed to get space between the window and ratchet. Place the projector in into its seat pushing it all the way towards the front of the car. Mark the 2 holes with a marker or whatever you can manage to get between the window. Also mark the column support on the pre 99 cars for the 3rd mount. The 99+ cars should already have the cutout for the screw to reside in. Remove the projector and drill. Once drilled, mount the projector with whatever method you chose.



Attachment 48163081


17) Once the dash pad is out, you can flip it over and see where you’re supposed to cut. Cut to the very edge of the sides, and about a 1/4" from the bottom (Front of dash closest to steering wheel) to provide a step for the bezel to grip the dash pad. Cut slowly, KEEP cutting device perpendicular to cut while watching where the bezel rests. This is the most time consuming part of the install. Cut little by little constantly fitting bezel until snug. Cut the foam and pad with a sharp razor blade. TAKE YOUR TIME, you don't want to know what a replacement dash pad costs!!! (My diagram is for illustration purposes only)


Attachment 48163082


18) Once you have the hole trimmed to fit the bezel, fit the bezel in place and hold it with some clamps. Make sure the bezel is flush with the rear edge of the dash (side under/closest to windshield) You can choose your own method to secure it to the dash pad. I mixed up a batch of JB Quick Weld filled the holes, glued the front tabs of the bezel, removed the clamps and was done. One of my customers cut the legs by enough to use screws into the legs.


Attachment 48163083


19) While your waiting for your bezel to set you can use swap your stock 97-99 non-HUD cluster with the reprogrammed HUD enabled cluster, or to add the HUD switch and wiring harness to your HUD enabled cluster. To remove the cluster from the car with the dash pad already removed you need to remove 2, 7mm screws located just below the cluster and reach behind the cluster and pinch the large grey connector while pulling, rocking or whatever else it take to get it loose.

Attachment 48163084


• 19a.) If your cluster came from a car with HUD already installed, install your new cluster and move to step 20
• 19b.) If you have a HUD enabled cluster that came from a car without HUD you will have to purchase a HUD switch from the dealer and swap it with your existing dimmer switch. If you can find a factory wiring harness, just plug it in, install and move to step 20

Attachment 48163085



Attachment 48163086



Putting your Vette back together

20) Congratulations take a step back and look at the mess you've created. Maybe have a drink or two, because reinstalling it all is the easiest and fastest part.
21) Plug in the main cluster harness, and now the HUD projector harness to the back of the cluster. Key the ignition on and make sure everything works. All the gauges should do they're full sweep as well as the projection on the windshield should do similar.
• Play with the intensity, make sure it gets bright, dims, disappears...
• Cycle through the page button, to switch displayed fuel level, coolant temperature, oil pressure, also hold it briefly to switch Tach on/off cycling through the different views.
• Also move the display up and down the window to make sure everything is hooked up correctly.
• If everything appears to work correctly move on to step 22. (make sure you firmly plugged in the fuel buttons on the right if you installed the HUD switch)
22) Re-install the 2, 7mm screws holding the lower cluster in.
23) Don't forget the sensor, and wire harness you disconnected from the defroster grill. Tape them up to the defroster so they will be accessible when you reinstall the pad
24) Get your helper grab the now "HUD enabled" dash pad and move it back into place. Before pushing it all the way back toward the window, make sure to hook up the hazard switch. (Forget to do this and your turn signals will not work)
25) Re-install the various 7mm screws you removed throughout, not forgetting:
• 2 under the defroster vent,
• 2 off to the side/under the pillars,
• the one on the side near the passenger hinge area.
26) Re-install the 2, T15 screws above the cluster to dash pad
27) Re-install the side pillars by starting in the bottom, and working to the top
28) Re-install the stereo with 2, 7mm screws
29) Re-install the glove box, get all the 7mm screws, and 2, 10mm bolts in loosely before tightening everything down
30) Re-install the center console not forgetting to hook up all electrical connections
31) Re-install the shift knob/selector
32) Sit back and take a look at a job well done, hopefully there will be no mysterious screws left over.

Wow, that's awesome! Great how-to. :)

Congrats on your new HUD. I hope you love it as much as I love mine.

Great Job!:thumbs:

This is just what I've been looking for. Where did you get the Hud kit?

Great job!

Thanks guys! I didn't get a HUD, I already have one in my '01 but I needed the 'dash removal' part and the instructions covered 'HUD install' as well so I just included that :thumbs:

Excellent write-up. Thanks.

Sure is!:cheers:

Only addition is how to remove the a-pillars which can look daunting but are just "grip and rip" from the top. Held in by clips.

Josh would be proud, and I'm sure appreciative, for the time and trouble you took to refresh his great tutorial. :cheers: :thumbs:

Couple things to add (AS I'M DOING THIS RIGHT NOW!). If you have a vert, you have to remove the painted portion that's on top of the rear center console, console won't come out without it gone, just 4 phillips screws. Also, if you have an auto, and can't figure out how to remove the shifter knob, just turn the car on and shift down to get the front/center console out!


Couple questions if anyone has any info... Do I need to unplug my battery for the cluster removal? I don't want any security issues...

Also, what does the projector plug into, I have a 10 pin female wire on the projector and something is already plugged into my cluster, I bought these from an '01....Thanks!

Feel free to PM me as I'll be trying to finish this up ASAP!

Great Been Wanting To Do My Cf Dash And Console Now I Have Too No More Excuses I Dont Know How!! Lol

You should always dissconnect the battery before starting any work on your car.

i removed it and had no issues... GOt the projector in and it looks sweet. Now if only the bezel was readily available, looks like I'll be playing the waiting game.

this should be put in the DIY sticky

You cant get the bezel very easily? Have you tried Gene Culley?

And to the OP - Thanks for posting this all up!!

GREAT JOB! Now it should be here for all prosperity. :thumbs:

i love walter!!! see above avatar

Nice, I won't be doing the HUD install as stated above, but I did needed to see how to take the center console out to do blurry my A/C display.

hud
 

I already have the hud as a factory option. After 170,000 in my 2000
C5 it stays down and I cannot adjust. Heard that I can replace the HUD by removing the cluster to get at it, without removing the dash. Has anyone head of this, and can it be done without removing the dash?
Thanks,
Mark

Hi Mark,

I don't think you'll be able to do it by just removing the cluster. The 2 rear mounting screws for the HUD Projector are nearest the windshield, and must be accessed from the top. This would of course require removal of the dash. ( at least that's how I remember it when I had it apart in July)

What type of drill do you use to drill the very front holes for the projector?

Below is another link for HUD install on a non-HUD C5.

http://members.cox.net/corvette/hud.htm

Thanks, I did find that post as well, just trying to find an alternative to buying a drill like the one pictured/suggested
:cheers:

all the time, most likely a pin inside the HUD broke, dash pad is coming off for this

Thanks for the instructions and confidence to accomplish this project! I now have HUD and cant wait to start using it(once the snow stops flying).

With these instructions it took me about 2 hrs to complete the job. I did have a complete new C5 HUD dash tho to use, so it saved me the cutting and gluing time!

Thanks again,
Eric

I used this post to help with my HUD install this weekend. I really appreciate the time people take to making do-it-yourself posts like this. The HUD projector that I bought also came with a 6,683 mile Z06 instrument cluster. I ended up taking the two clusters apart and swapped my odometer into the Z06 cluster, so now I can keep racking up the 163k+ miles on my car.
Attachment 48160756

FYI:

on my '98, the aluminum support was already notched for the screw on the rear HUD support.:cheers:


good write up:thumbs:
should help alot of people.:cheers:

I used an angle drill..:yesnod:

yes you will need to remove the waterfall on a vert to get the console out.

the HUD projector plugs into a connector at the top of the cluster.
if there is no connector at the top of your cluster, then it's not a "HUD enabled" cluster.....:yesnod:

Fitted to my '98 C5
 

Thanks for an awesome post. This gave me the confidence to tackle the job. I brought all the individual parts on ebay and last Sat spent about 7 hours and now I have an awesome heads up perfectly installed in my '98 convertible. Thank god for the comprehensive step by step instructions. There is no way I could have done this without it.

My wife had a heart attack when she saw our destroyed baby when I had it all apart - but is back together and looks perfect.

I can't thank you enough.

Cheers
Aussie Col.

Great write up on the install. Just a few things I noticed doing it to my '98 vert:

1. You don't have to remove the shifter and boot on a M6 car, just tilt the boot vertically and it will go throught the trim piece.

2. No need to remove radio.

3. When cutting the dash pad; after drilling the mounting holes, if you set the bezel in the holes on top of the dash, there is a lip on the bottom of the bezel. If you trace that with a pencil, that will give you the exact line to cut. On that line, I cut down to the plastic base of the pad with a razor knife. I cut away the vinyl and foam material, then trimmed the plastic base with a die grinder and cutting wheel. This will give you the exact fit for the bezel.

4. If you have the stock mounting clips with the bezel, there is no need to apply any adhesive to the bezel. This is the way the factory did it.

Just my .02

I have a question I have a 1998 cluster.. I am doing this swap very soon. I wanna know is the new clusters need a bulb swaped to another spot, so all the idiot lights work. So it is the same as my 1998 clusters idiot lights.. I think its the abs light bulb... But Im not sure... Thanks again.

Re-subscribing for my future MOD!

Thank you for the excellent write-up:thumbs:

Thanks,Matt

Some hints for the HUD install since I just finished doing it.
-Use a dremel with the "tile" carbide bit and a right angle adapter. Make square holes for the front screws for the hud.
-buy two square plastic expanding license plate inserts with the hex screws, use rubber washers on each side of the HUD tabs and just tighten the hex screws with a normal 1/4" drive ratchet.
-I took measurements of the bezel installation, hopefully I can translate these to give people a more precise cutting diagram.
-if you remove the dash, you don't need to loosen the steering wheel to remove the cluster without risk of breaking it.
-if you have a radar detector, now is the time to run the wire under the dash and into your defrost vent so its a nice clean install!
I'll post some pics once I get them hosted up to illustrate some of the above points. Great write ups! without them I don't know if I would have tried to tackle this on my own.

Dash removal and HUD install
 

Great article!!!

Subscribed.

Good article. :thumbs:

Heads up for everyone. I just did this conversion on my car and bought a brand new bezel from partstaxi.com. They have them in stock!!! Just in case anyone is looking for a replacement :)

Thanks for the info
 

Thanks for a great article! Your info made my dash and console removal extremely easy. My HUD pivot pin had broken and I found a great article for the repair on here as well but your article on dismantling and re-assembling was an awesome time and aggravation saver. I appreciate you taking the time to photograph and add text detailing where every screw was located and the sequence in which to proceed. Thanks to you I had my HUD repaired in 5 hours. And that wasn't pushing it. I took several breaks as it is hot in the garage here in Orlando this time of year.
Thanks again for your help!!!

My HUD display does not project high enough on the W/S to see it unless you raise the seat, then your head hits the conv. top. Any easy adjustments w/o removing dash pad? Thanks, EKPDDS

HUD problem
 

It sounds like you have the dreaded falling HUD. That means the pivot pin has worn and broken. It's a fairly easy fix actually if you're mechanically inclined and have the basic plus tools at home. There is a great article on here for disassembling and reassembling the dash. Do a search. Then there is another article for the actual repair of the HUD. I did mine in less than 5 hours and that wasn't pushing it at all. That was disassembly, repair of the part and reassembly.
If you have any problem finding the articles let me know. These guys did a great job with instructions and photos to make the job a breeze. I know I can find the articles again.
Good luck,
Bill

C% HUD problem
 

Thanks Bill for the quick reply. Was just trying to avoid removing dash as I just did this 6 mo. ago. I also have the lights so dim on the HVAC readout so will try to get 2 birds this time. Thanks again, Tom :cheers:

Major surgery in 2 weeks
 

Guys,
This is a great write up and thread! I am updating my 98 vert with a HUD. I decided to get a already made dashboard, custom painted torch red cluster and all the parts to convert so this is going to be fun!
I did see something strange about when converting a 98 to a 99 or greater cluster that a indicator on the cluster had to be moved "If you use a late 99-04 cluster you will also have to move the airbag warning light located next to the fuel gauge to the location on the Tach or else the light will remain lit al the time".
Anybody have this issue? Don't understand this, the cluster is completely swapped out, the internal wiring is different? Doesnt make any sense. :crazy:
Just how is it moved if this is the case!

You just unscrew the bulb and move it over to the new location and screw it back in. I did the swap on my '98 and had no issues when I swapped the bulb over.

I'm using this to take my dash off but I'm having trouble with the side screws on the dash.

How do I access those screws? I have everything else off and can't get to those side screws.

Lightly pull away the pillars on each side, they clip in. You will then have access to the screws.:cheers:

Gary,

Thank you, I will try that tomorrow.

So I am curious. How many of you that did this on a '98 had the correct plug on the cluster? Did most '98s have it?

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/pict...ctureid=108337I just finished doing mine and no the old cluster did not have the plug. Nor were the HUD holes drilled for mounting. Interesting though was the fact the where the hud mounts in the rear where most people have to frill another hole, mine had a factory like notch already there so I did not have the drill the rear hole.
The HUD is awsome and well worth the work.

I just buttoned mine (1998) up and I am so happy. I did have one issue...I forgot to move the airbag light, and yup, it is on. What are my options here guys. Taking it apart is pretty easy (srs), but if I can avoid that, I'd like to.

One thing I want to add to the install. Do yourself a favor and take the emergency flasher loose from where it connects down inside the dash area, and not from the switch. Much easier this way.

Otherwise, I did the install exactly as written.

It took me 55 minutes to get it all apart. I then took a break, went and graduated (Got my second masters today), then came home and finished it up.

Anyone have a suggestion on the airbag light. I can live with it on if nothing else. I have next weekend if I need it. Wife is out of town, so what else do I have to do anyway, except drive it. :)

I did the HUD today. Bought the kit as a x-mas gift. The wife loves it. Took about 3.5 hrs. Followed the OP's instructions and some that others added. Tested it during the day and then tried it at night. Wow, this is a must have mod.

Tom

I just installed mine. This post made the install easy. Thanks.

Josh
 

Agreed, this write up has been out for some time now.

excellent post!!!!!!!

subscribed :thumbs:

I just did this mod 2 weeks ago with the help of the great write up ! I have a 97 and installed a 2002 ZO6 cluster. I LOVE THIS MOD !!! I did have to remove the airbag light (it stayed lit )and could not find another spot for it. One post said it had to be moved to the tach. No spot for it there, so it's just gone.

Everything works great but I do have one problem. The DIC no longer displays engine codes. I can reset abs warnings or tire monitor codes but I can no longer pull up every code and reset pcm. I hold down options then press fuel 4 times and i get nothing. My buddy has his own shop with scanner tools but I haven't got a chance to check it out yet.

anybody have this issue?

Just did mine. This thread was amazing at helping! Thank you again for making it!

I'm getting ready to do this install and was testing fitting the well nuts and allen bolts into the projector brackets when I ran into a problem. The well nuts do not fit into the holes in the projector's brackets. I got the #10 size recommended. So do the well nuts (rubber expansion nuts) go through the holes on the projector brackets? Or do the well nuts rest underneath like a bushing and the allen bolts go through a washer and into the well nut on the other side? I didn't read anything about a washer. I'm sure a washer would work but I don't want to have clearance issues when I put the dashpad back on. Anybody have any insight on this? Thanks

So the Projector is the most expensive part I see. What are y'all paying for these? I found a used one for $515 what do you think?

Found a Kit for used equipment for this swap on line but states they have no idea what the milage is on the new Cluster my car only has 63,000 miles on it and the last thing I want is it showing 100,000+ is there a way of reseting this? or is the milage stored on the PCM and then it programs the new cluster when installed?

Yeah I just bought a used kit for my '98 . From what I understand there's two ways to do it. The dealer can reprogram your dash, or you can swap what amounts to the memory card in the gauge cluster (which is handy if you have to get a new cluster for the older model years). I plan on doing it by swapping the cards following this procedure: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1570380674

High Five Hoodie...Thank you!!!! That sounds like the way to go to me for sure.

One caveat to the card swap approach. Both your old, and your new cluster must be "HUD ready". The older clusters (like on my 97) don't have the connector for the HUD, so a swap of the entire cluster was called for. In that case, you'll either need to get a dealer to change it, or swap out the eeprom on the card (which is soldered on)

If your two clusters have the same connectors, then a card swap should work fine.

Awesome good catch you just saved me some frustration. What exactly does the dealer need to perform the switch in mileage? I imagine I can't just go in and tell them to switch my mileage as that could be perceived as fraudulent. Do they have to do the whole install then?

Or to the soldering approach, how difficult is that? I've only soldered a couple things before in college but nothing important or expensive.

Sorry pirateslife, didn't mean to mislead you. Let me know what you find out because I'm probably going to need to do the same thing!

I'm not certain how the dealers do it. They may be able to reprogram the chip in place. Barring that ability, they would essentially have to program a replacement eeprom, and then solder swap it into the new cluster.

check out this thread

To follow up I called my local dealer (one of the bigger ones in AR) and they will only program a gauge cluster if you purchase a new instrument cluster from them and they are $325). Which would pretty much double what I paid for the kit. I called a company claiming to be able to reprogram gm clusters and they wanted $200. So... looks like a may be putting the kit up for sale.

Resurrecting this thread so I can have the subscription to it. I am going to be removing my dash pad tomorrow on my '98 and this looks like a great how to. Not doing the HUD though, just some interior vent mods. Thanks for the write-up.:thumbs:

My sincere thanks are added to the others.

I'm going in to fix a low display projection. Given the age of the car, I figure I might run into brittle clips. I would like to have them at hand before I start , since the passion to work on my car is fleeting and infrequent. Are any plastic clips involved, and what would you have on hand, just in case?

Anything else to look into while the dash is off? Are bulbs an issue?

Thanks

I just did mine yesterday and didn't run into any plastic parts that would break on you. Most all the mounting is with metal brackets. Mine is a '98 and I didn't have any issues with the reinstall. No bulbs that I could tell that you will find in there either. Good luck with your project.

Went through this yesterday...
One minor nit-pick: last picture before step 15 (step 14 appears to be missing), leave those 10mm bolts behind the covers alone, just remove the four 7mm screws under the top edge. (It's not necessary to remove the glovebox and getting those bolts back in without three hands and a magnetic socket is almost impossible.)

Depending on where you car has been most of its life, the defroster grill and the HUD bezel (if you're doing a repair) may be incredibly fragile. My bezel broke into about six pieces during the last step of dash removal...it's so crumbly that I've had chunks break off just picking one of the pieces off the workbench. The defroster grill came off ok, but didn't want to lock back in during the reinstall: pushing on it broke several of the cross pieces.
You might want to consider ordering replacements ahead of time if you car has spent significant time parked in the Florida/Texas/Arizona sun.

There's hope!
 

Thank you.

:)

wow good job that was the best dash pad removal ever seen,,i need to do this but no for install hud I need to do it to replace passenger temperature door actuator its the same process for different projects thanks a lot good job

HUD Install Complete - 2000 Vert
 

Installed my HUD yesterday. Thanks for this DIY. I never would have attempted it without this set of instructions. Even with this DIY I was afraid to tackle the install but i got the courage and guess what? It was easier than I thought it would be.

On a different note, it seems every single thing made of plastic in this car is SUPER fragile... LOVE THE HUD!!! THANKS! :woohoo:

Some day!!! More than anything, I just want to pull it out and clean and insulate under there. Find any sources of rattles and squeaks. The HUD would just be a bonus.
Only thing I don't like is the giant hole in the dash. They look so much nicer without the projector. Small price to pay for that feature though.

thanks to at88mph and this forum, I just swapped my 01z to HUD suprised at how simple and straight forward this really was!

I'm currently in the process of doing this. Thankfully my 02 was already HUD enabled so I just needed the projector and controls which i grabbed of ebay for $250

I wish i could say my install was simple, but I have WAY more wires and toys in my dash than the average vette....but this gives me an opportunity to organize wires and clean things up.

Note: Cutting the dash for the bezel can be done VERY quickly and effectively with a dremel multipurpose cutting bit.

I have an 04 C5 Z06, I like the write up except I can't see the pictures. My HUD has fallen in. I hope to do this soon but still thinking if I can do it like the C6 by cutting the AC/Heater vent behind the gauge cluster thus not having to remove the entire dash......

For what it's worth, I installed the HUD into my 2000 C5 and removing the dash was easier than the instructions might imply... Hope you get it figured out, I know that situation would drive me crazy

I agree. There are a bunch of screws to remove but it really isn't that hard to take out.

i have to agree also, take your time and use common sense a few of the fasteners are hidden like the ones under the defroster vent on top of the dash keep that in mind IIRC there is also one on each side under the pillar trim peaces I hade mind out in less then an hour

these cars are really not hard to work on

Is there a how-to on removing the dash pad anywhere with pic links that aren't dead?

Here is something that I saved a long time ago. Hopefully it helps.

Thanks, that looks helpful.

Sorry everyone!! I didn't know that the pic links were broken :willy: I've now updated them to a new location. Apparently Comcast changed their URL's or deleted my pics and I didn't realize it. I've now moved all the pics over to my PhotoBucket account so hopefully they'll be there from now on when someone needs this guide. :thumbs::cheers:

Thanks for this excellent diy write up. Definitely on my list to do as soon as I gather everything up. Thanks again for making this a possibility.

Sorry to bump this old thread. Two quick questions...

1) I have a 2001 Z06 - my cluster should be HUD enabled already, right? So all that I need is the 11 pin harness and the HUD switch?
2) Do I need to buy a projector that's specifically from a Z06, or are all C5 projectors the same?

By all means purchase a new dash board bezel, do not try to reuse an old one. The sun does a number on them and while they will last a very long time if undisturbed, if you try to remove and reinstall one you will soon be replacing it. It will end up cracking when installed or shortly thereafter.

You might want to contact Marc at VetteNuts, he should be able to fix you up with everything you need.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...enuts-net.html

Good luck... GUSTO

You are the man, thanks. I've already got a new bezel that I purchased from Cultrag. All that I have left to buy is the projector now!

Any projector will work.

I am new to the C5 world and looking to purchase one. If I get a pre late 99 I will be doing this HUD set up. What I'm trying to figure out still is about the note about the airbag light. It says pre late 99 to get a late 99+ cluster, but you then have to move the airbag light by the fuel gauge to near the tach. That part is what I'm not getting. It looks like they all have that light by the fuel gauge. Can someone clarify this for me please.

PS: this is the exact note on page one.

If you use a late 99-04 cluster you will also have to move the airbag warning light located next to the fuel gauge to the location on the Tach or else the light will remain lit al the time.

I did not have that issue with my 2000 Convertible
 

The hardest part for me was pulling the dash but I had the interior pulled out for dynamat so I did the upgrade. I bought the used HUD from VetteNuts (if I remember correctly) and it was plug and play. My only warning to you would be to take your time cutting the hole in your dash for the HUD it is marked from the factory but you want to keep it tight. The last thing you want is for your cut to be peaking past the bezel. Good luck. I really enjoy having HUD

Thanks for the information. Cutting a dash is not something you want to rush through. That's for sure.

you need the HUD and the SWITCH to control it

My question only has to do with the airbag warning light on the dash. From page one I know I need the projector, correct cluster, the harness, HUD switch and HUD bezel.

FAKE NEWS!

You don't need to change out your cluster or worry about having GM re-flash your mileage or swap the chipset over (can be done - instructions are on the forum.)

If you search my name on here and "hud" you will find my experience.

I have an early 99, built in 98. I opened it up to find that I did NOT have the so-called Hud-enabled cluster. No connector. I figured if I was going to get rid of my cluster anyway for one that worked... what the hell... so I tried soldering in the connector to the board where it was clearly designed to support the system. It worked, and has been working since... 2015? 2014? I don't recall. I had no issues with lights in the dash.

NOTE: I have not verified application to 97/98 cars. Some people have attempted it and PM'd for advice, but I never heard back from them on here.

Really? That's some very useful information. I will check out your build. Do you know where you can get the connector itself from?

I have a hud kit for sale currently. If you decide you're ready to do it hmu.

I do not recall the vendor. I'm trying to think because I KNOW I saw those little connector tabs somewhere. I bought them in a pack of ten or so. If I can find them this weekend, I'll respond back and send what you need. Don't hold your breath though... I have been at full on project speed trying the rip the car apart and put back together over the past two weeks in time for a veteran support car show this coming weekend. Those little buggers could be ANYWHERE in the house.

I do remember finding the info/vendor through long reading of HUD install posts on the forum here. Somewhere, the information still exists in written form.

Edit: Possibly Newark.com? Unsure.

Stroker thanks for the information on the airbag.

Oneandgone I will let you know when I am ready and hopefully you still have it by then. I still need to find a Vette first, but going to look at a couple this weekend or next. So if all works out I should have my C5 very soon.

Tusc thanks for the information I will look on their website and see what I can find. Good luck getting your Vette ready for the Veteran support car show!