[Z06] Broken Piston Ring = cracked sleeve. HELP!
#1
Broken Piston Ring = cracked sleeve. HELP!
Hey guys, been a long time since I posted
Long story short:
Something happened to my piston ring and it cracked the cylinder sleeve. I am not sure if there is any other damage.
The shop that looked at the car said that the cause of this was oil getting onto the MAF sensor, which caused the MAF to think that less air was passing and it cut the fuel supply as a result.
What are my options in order to fix this. Also how much am I look at to get the cylinder re-sleeved and put in a new piston? Are there any shops in Texas that can do this?
TYIA
Long story short:
Something happened to my piston ring and it cracked the cylinder sleeve. I am not sure if there is any other damage.
The shop that looked at the car said that the cause of this was oil getting onto the MAF sensor, which caused the MAF to think that less air was passing and it cut the fuel supply as a result.
What are my options in order to fix this. Also how much am I look at to get the cylinder re-sleeved and put in a new piston? Are there any shops in Texas that can do this?
TYIA
#3
Safety Car
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Sorry about your problems... I see you're running a cam and maybe some spray along witrh other mods. This sounds like another "classic" lean issue causing detonation and engine carnage.
#4
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '12
If it cracked the cylinder sleeve I would first ensure block is ok.
I would email Anthony @ LG Motorsports in Wylie, Texas. They are EXCELLENT shop and have keen knowledge of Z06/ZR1. But, I am also sure there are qualified shops closer to you in S.A. (if not aware of Wylie location it's a burb of Dallas).
I also wanted to say that a catch can possibly could have avoided the oil onto MAF sensor. I have a '10 'Z and I do know the PCV definitely works on these 427's. I have not yet ever had my 'Z above 5k rpm's and see oil in can (tsp-every 1k-but there) and it turned nearly 3600 miles as of yesterday when I drove it to Dallas for work meeting. I got my catch can from a forum vendor (CCA). Hate this for you. Best Wishes.
I would email Anthony @ LG Motorsports in Wylie, Texas. They are EXCELLENT shop and have keen knowledge of Z06/ZR1. But, I am also sure there are qualified shops closer to you in S.A. (if not aware of Wylie location it's a burb of Dallas).
I also wanted to say that a catch can possibly could have avoided the oil onto MAF sensor. I have a '10 'Z and I do know the PCV definitely works on these 427's. I have not yet ever had my 'Z above 5k rpm's and see oil in can (tsp-every 1k-but there) and it turned nearly 3600 miles as of yesterday when I drove it to Dallas for work meeting. I got my catch can from a forum vendor (CCA). Hate this for you. Best Wishes.
#5
Burning Brakes
I think on most of these when the sleeve cracks you'll find that the block parent material behind the sleeve is cracked as well. You need to look behind the sleeve. Good luck.
#6
Le Mans Master
I am sure Danny can get you a great price on an ERL block. That is what I am installing in mine next month.
#7
Le Mans Master
The MAF is upstream of the pvc vent in the intake tube. Not sure how it could be covered in oil?
#10
#12
Le Mans Master
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Hey guys, been a long time since I posted
Long story short:
Something happened to my piston ring and it cracked the cylinder sleeve. I am not sure if there is any other damage.
The shop that looked at the car said that the cause of this was oil getting onto the MAF sensor, which caused the MAF to think that less air was passing and it cut the fuel supply as a result.
What are my options in order to fix this. Also how much am I look at to get the cylinder re-sleeved and put in a new piston? Are there any shops in Texas that can do this?
TYIA
Long story short:
Something happened to my piston ring and it cracked the cylinder sleeve. I am not sure if there is any other damage.
The shop that looked at the car said that the cause of this was oil getting onto the MAF sensor, which caused the MAF to think that less air was passing and it cut the fuel supply as a result.
What are my options in order to fix this. Also how much am I look at to get the cylinder re-sleeved and put in a new piston? Are there any shops in Texas that can do this?
TYIA
If you cracked the sleeve the material behind the sleeve could have been compromised, if that was the case a new block is going be needed. You should call Steve at Race Engine Developement to see what he says, he sleeves more LS blocks than any one in the US. Google Race Engine Developement in So Cal and call Steve for his opinion.
#13
Bad tune/detonation.
If you have raised the compression (milled heads) with stock pistons, the tune has to be spot on or you will lift a ring land.
Steve at RED can re-sleeve with better material if the aluminum parent material is not cracked too bad, for around the cost of a new LS7 block. If it is cracked he can go with a wet sleeve with a max bore and stroke of 4.200/4.250. I would stay under a 4.145 bore though, so you can use the stock gaskets.
If you have raised the compression (milled heads) with stock pistons, the tune has to be spot on or you will lift a ring land.
Steve at RED can re-sleeve with better material if the aluminum parent material is not cracked too bad, for around the cost of a new LS7 block. If it is cracked he can go with a wet sleeve with a max bore and stroke of 4.200/4.250. I would stay under a 4.145 bore though, so you can use the stock gaskets.
#14
Drifting
Bad tune/detonation.
If you have raised the compression (milled heads) with stock pistons, the tune has to be spot on or you will lift a ring land.
Steve at RED can re-sleeve with better material if the aluminum parent material is not cracked too bad, for around the cost of a new LS7 block. If it is cracked he can go with a wet sleeve with a max bore and stroke of 4.200/4.250. I would stay under a 4.145 bore though, so you can use the stock gaskets.
If you have raised the compression (milled heads) with stock pistons, the tune has to be spot on or you will lift a ring land.
Steve at RED can re-sleeve with better material if the aluminum parent material is not cracked too bad, for around the cost of a new LS7 block. If it is cracked he can go with a wet sleeve with a max bore and stroke of 4.200/4.250. I would stay under a 4.145 bore though, so you can use the stock gaskets.
#15
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '06
If your looking for a new LS7 Engine Build I would look up an HKE LS7 engine build by Erik Koenig (the best in the LS world) offered through forum member (who is a vendor here) 99blancoSS.
Here is some info on a link where they offer a 457/460 ci LS7 engine for a great price:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...7-upgrade.html
Last edited by Mopar Jimmy; 12-17-2010 at 02:41 PM.
#16
Melting Slicks
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Hey guys, been a long time since I posted
Long story short:
Something happened to my piston ring and it cracked the cylinder sleeve. I am not sure if there is any other damage.
The shop that looked at the car said that the cause of this was oil getting onto the MAF sensor, which caused the MAF to think that less air was passing and it cut the fuel supply as a result.
What are my options in order to fix this. Also how much am I look at to get the cylinder re-sleeved and put in a new piston? Are there any shops in Texas that can do this?
TYIA
Long story short:
Something happened to my piston ring and it cracked the cylinder sleeve. I am not sure if there is any other damage.
The shop that looked at the car said that the cause of this was oil getting onto the MAF sensor, which caused the MAF to think that less air was passing and it cut the fuel supply as a result.
What are my options in order to fix this. Also how much am I look at to get the cylinder re-sleeved and put in a new piston? Are there any shops in Texas that can do this?
TYIA
#17
Burning Brakes
Bad tune/detonation.
If you have raised the compression (milled heads) with stock pistons, the tune has to be spot on or you will lift a ring land.
Steve at RED can re-sleeve with better material if the aluminum parent material is not cracked too bad, for around the cost of a new LS7 block. If it is cracked he can go with a wet sleeve with a max bore and stroke of 4.200/4.250. I would stay under a 4.145 bore though, so you can use the stock gaskets.
If you have raised the compression (milled heads) with stock pistons, the tune has to be spot on or you will lift a ring land.
Steve at RED can re-sleeve with better material if the aluminum parent material is not cracked too bad, for around the cost of a new LS7 block. If it is cracked he can go with a wet sleeve with a max bore and stroke of 4.200/4.250. I would stay under a 4.145 bore though, so you can use the stock gaskets.
I agree on all the points. Just to add, ERL also does excellent dry sleeves. Their prices have been better in my experience, but you can not go wrong with RED either. Va Speed is another shop that sleeves blocks and can get you up and running quickly.
ERL did my block (they are doing another block for me on an engine I'm building for another car), and they were a pleasure to deal with. I'm very happy with their work.
#18
Just to correct a few assumptions:
I was not spraying nitrous. I did however have the heads milled which raised the compression. I am not sure if it was cylinder #7, the cylinder that cracked was the one closest to the driver.
I was surprised myself that the MAF could cause such a serious problem. But there was oil on it, right when I took it in to get it checked out the shop took the intake off in front of me and I saw with my very eyes that the the CAI part of the intake was flooded with oil and the MAF was covered in it.
And no I did not over oil the intake, in fact I have not oiled it since I got it which is a lil over a year ago.
Thanks for the replies, will be contacting ERL and RED shortly.
I was not spraying nitrous. I did however have the heads milled which raised the compression. I am not sure if it was cylinder #7, the cylinder that cracked was the one closest to the driver.
I was surprised myself that the MAF could cause such a serious problem. But there was oil on it, right when I took it in to get it checked out the shop took the intake off in front of me and I saw with my very eyes that the the CAI part of the intake was flooded with oil and the MAF was covered in it.
And no I did not over oil the intake, in fact I have not oiled it since I got it which is a lil over a year ago.
Thanks for the replies, will be contacting ERL and RED shortly.
#19
Le Mans Master
Just to correct a few assumptions:
I was not spraying nitrous. I did however have the heads milled which raised the compression. I am not sure if it was cylinder #7, the cylinder that cracked was the one closest to the driver.
I was surprised myself that the MAF could cause such a serious problem. But there was oil on it, right when I took it in to get it checked out the shop took the intake off in front of me and I saw with my very eyes that the the CAI part of the intake was flooded with oil and the MAF was covered in it.
And no I did not over oil the intake, in fact I have not oiled it since I got it which is a lil over a year ago.
Thanks for the replies, will be contacting ERL and RED shortly.
I was not spraying nitrous. I did however have the heads milled which raised the compression. I am not sure if it was cylinder #7, the cylinder that cracked was the one closest to the driver.
I was surprised myself that the MAF could cause such a serious problem. But there was oil on it, right when I took it in to get it checked out the shop took the intake off in front of me and I saw with my very eyes that the the CAI part of the intake was flooded with oil and the MAF was covered in it.
And no I did not over oil the intake, in fact I have not oiled it since I got it which is a lil over a year ago.
Thanks for the replies, will be contacting ERL and RED shortly.
#20
Supporting Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '08
Just to correct a few assumptions:
I was not spraying nitrous. I did however have the heads milled which raised the compression. I am not sure if it was cylinder #7, the cylinder that cracked was the one closest to the driver.
I was surprised myself that the MAF could cause such a serious problem. But there was oil on it, right when I took it in to get it checked out the shop took the intake off in front of me and I saw with my very eyes that the the CAI part of the intake was flooded with oil and the MAF was covered in it.
And no I did not over oil the intake, in fact I have not oiled it since I got it which is a lil over a year ago.
Thanks for the replies, will be contacting ERL and RED shortly.
I was not spraying nitrous. I did however have the heads milled which raised the compression. I am not sure if it was cylinder #7, the cylinder that cracked was the one closest to the driver.
I was surprised myself that the MAF could cause such a serious problem. But there was oil on it, right when I took it in to get it checked out the shop took the intake off in front of me and I saw with my very eyes that the the CAI part of the intake was flooded with oil and the MAF was covered in it.
And no I did not over oil the intake, in fact I have not oiled it since I got it which is a lil over a year ago.
Thanks for the replies, will be contacting ERL and RED shortly.
Was the intake valve in place on the head where the damage was suffered? I ask because if not, the oil will go back into the intake (along with coolant if you hit a water jacket) when the piston breaks.
Could you post pics of the failure?
Just for fun, this is what my intake looked like after our motor popped. My MAF, intake and filter were also covered, but it was secondary to the engine damage.