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[Z06] Broken Piston Ring = cracked sleeve. HELP!

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Old 12-17-2010, 12:06 AM
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Rusc6z06
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Default Broken Piston Ring = cracked sleeve. HELP!

Hey guys, been a long time since I posted
Long story short:
Something happened to my piston ring and it cracked the cylinder sleeve. I am not sure if there is any other damage.

The shop that looked at the car said that the cause of this was oil getting onto the MAF sensor, which caused the MAF to think that less air was passing and it cut the fuel supply as a result.

What are my options in order to fix this. Also how much am I look at to get the cylinder re-sleeved and put in a new piston? Are there any shops in Texas that can do this?

TYIA
Old 12-17-2010, 12:11 AM
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Mopar Jimmy
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:14 AM
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Undy
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Sorry about your problems... I see you're running a cam and maybe some spray along witrh other mods. This sounds like another "classic" lean issue causing detonation and engine carnage.
Old 12-17-2010, 08:05 AM
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tim414
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If it cracked the cylinder sleeve I would first ensure block is ok.
I would email Anthony @ LG Motorsports in Wylie, Texas. They are EXCELLENT shop and have keen knowledge of Z06/ZR1. But, I am also sure there are qualified shops closer to you in S.A. (if not aware of Wylie location it's a burb of Dallas).

I also wanted to say that a catch can possibly could have avoided the oil onto MAF sensor. I have a '10 'Z and I do know the PCV definitely works on these 427's. I have not yet ever had my 'Z above 5k rpm's and see oil in can (tsp-every 1k-but there) and it turned nearly 3600 miles as of yesterday when I drove it to Dallas for work meeting. I got my catch can from a forum vendor (CCA). Hate this for you. Best Wishes.
Old 12-17-2010, 08:43 AM
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mcar00
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I think on most of these when the sleeve cracks you'll find that the block parent material behind the sleeve is cracked as well. You need to look behind the sleeve. Good luck.
Old 12-17-2010, 08:50 AM
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gotjuice?
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I am sure Danny can get you a great price on an ERL block. That is what I am installing in mine next month.
Old 12-17-2010, 10:21 AM
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The MAF is upstream of the pvc vent in the intake tube. Not sure how it could be covered in oil?
Old 12-17-2010, 10:27 AM
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What cylinder....... # 7
Old 12-17-2010, 12:27 PM
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RichieRichZ06
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Originally Posted by AirBusPilot
The MAF is upstream of the pvc vent in the intake tube. Not sure how it could be covered in oil?
I was just about to post the same thing. I do not see how the MAF could get any oil on it. At first glance sounds like a bad tune / detonation to me.
Old 12-17-2010, 12:58 PM
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00transamnh
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Originally Posted by RichieRichZ06
I was just about to post the same thing. I do not see how the MAF could get any oil on it. At first glance sounds like a bad tune / detonation to me.
Sounds like someone over oiled their air filter to me.
Old 12-17-2010, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 00transamnh
Sounds like someone over oiled their air filter to me.
I have not seen that in years. Besides the fact that an oiled MAF will almost always set the ses light quickly.

Last edited by RichieRichZ06; 12-17-2010 at 02:36 PM. Reason: spelling correction
Old 12-17-2010, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Rusc6z06
Hey guys, been a long time since I posted
Long story short:
Something happened to my piston ring and it cracked the cylinder sleeve. I am not sure if there is any other damage.

The shop that looked at the car said that the cause of this was oil getting onto the MAF sensor, which caused the MAF to think that less air was passing and it cut the fuel supply as a result.

What are my options in order to fix this. Also how much am I look at to get the cylinder re-sleeved and put in a new piston? Are there any shops in Texas that can do this?

TYIA
I really doubt that the cause was the MAF causing a severe lean condition enough to damage the engine. If it was a issue with a contaminated MAF the PCM would have set a lean code long before any damage could have happened. My guess, if I had to guess was that detonation caused the problem, that can be caused by a agresssive engine calibration, lean PE AFRs, excessive timing.

If you cracked the sleeve the material behind the sleeve could have been compromised, if that was the case a new block is going be needed. You should call Steve at Race Engine Developement to see what he says, he sleeves more LS blocks than any one in the US. Google Race Engine Developement in So Cal and call Steve for his opinion.
Old 12-17-2010, 01:56 PM
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dfinke23
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Bad tune/detonation.
If you have raised the compression (milled heads) with stock pistons, the tune has to be spot on or you will lift a ring land.
Steve at RED can re-sleeve with better material if the aluminum parent material is not cracked too bad, for around the cost of a new LS7 block. If it is cracked he can go with a wet sleeve with a max bore and stroke of 4.200/4.250. I would stay under a 4.145 bore though, so you can use the stock gaskets.
Old 12-17-2010, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by dfinke23
Bad tune/detonation.
If you have raised the compression (milled heads) with stock pistons, the tune has to be spot on or you will lift a ring land.
Steve at RED can re-sleeve with better material if the aluminum parent material is not cracked too bad, for around the cost of a new LS7 block. If it is cracked he can go with a wet sleeve with a max bore and stroke of 4.200/4.250. I would stay under a 4.145 bore though, so you can use the stock gaskets.
Steve at RED re-sleeved my LS7 after I cracked the #7 cylinder. He knows what he is doing.
Old 12-17-2010, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RGT
Steve at RED re-sleeved my LS7 after I cracked the #7 cylinder. He knows what he is doing.
That is the way to go if your just looking to fix your block.

If your looking for a new LS7 Engine Build I would look up an HKE LS7 engine build by Erik Koenig (the best in the LS world) offered through forum member (who is a vendor here) 99blancoSS.

Here is some info on a link where they offer a 457/460 ci LS7 engine for a great price:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...7-upgrade.html

Last edited by Mopar Jimmy; 12-17-2010 at 02:41 PM.
Old 12-17-2010, 03:14 PM
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thesubfloor
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Originally Posted by Rusc6z06
Hey guys, been a long time since I posted
Long story short:
Something happened to my piston ring and it cracked the cylinder sleeve. I am not sure if there is any other damage.

The shop that looked at the car said that the cause of this was oil getting onto the MAF sensor, which caused the MAF to think that less air was passing and it cut the fuel supply as a result.

What are my options in order to fix this. Also how much am I look at to get the cylinder re-sleeved and put in a new piston? Are there any shops in Texas that can do this?

TYIA
Last August I blew up my engine in pretty much the same manner and then had it rebuilt using forged pistons and a new sleeve in the #7 cylinder. A local shop (in Napa) did the work for me and after approximately 250 low 10 second passes at the track it's still going strong. The funny thing is that #7 cylinder is now the strongest one in the bunch and would be the last one to let go if something like this ever happened again.
Old 12-17-2010, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dfinke23
Bad tune/detonation.
If you have raised the compression (milled heads) with stock pistons, the tune has to be spot on or you will lift a ring land.
Steve at RED can re-sleeve with better material if the aluminum parent material is not cracked too bad, for around the cost of a new LS7 block. If it is cracked he can go with a wet sleeve with a max bore and stroke of 4.200/4.250. I would stay under a 4.145 bore though, so you can use the stock gaskets.

I agree on all the points. Just to add, ERL also does excellent dry sleeves. Their prices have been better in my experience, but you can not go wrong with RED either. Va Speed is another shop that sleeves blocks and can get you up and running quickly.

ERL did my block (they are doing another block for me on an engine I'm building for another car), and they were a pleasure to deal with. I'm very happy with their work.

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To Broken Piston Ring = cracked sleeve. HELP!

Old 12-17-2010, 05:37 PM
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Rusc6z06
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Just to correct a few assumptions:
I was not spraying nitrous. I did however have the heads milled which raised the compression. I am not sure if it was cylinder #7, the cylinder that cracked was the one closest to the driver.

I was surprised myself that the MAF could cause such a serious problem. But there was oil on it, right when I took it in to get it checked out the shop took the intake off in front of me and I saw with my very eyes that the the CAI part of the intake was flooded with oil and the MAF was covered in it.

And no I did not over oil the intake, in fact I have not oiled it since I got it which is a lil over a year ago.

Thanks for the replies, will be contacting ERL and RED shortly.
Old 12-17-2010, 05:40 PM
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gotjuice?
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Originally Posted by Rusc6z06
Just to correct a few assumptions:
I was not spraying nitrous. I did however have the heads milled which raised the compression. I am not sure if it was cylinder #7, the cylinder that cracked was the one closest to the driver.

I was surprised myself that the MAF could cause such a serious problem. But there was oil on it, right when I took it in to get it checked out the shop took the intake off in front of me and I saw with my very eyes that the the CAI part of the intake was flooded with oil and the MAF was covered in it.

And no I did not over oil the intake, in fact I have not oiled it since I got it which is a lil over a year ago.

Thanks for the replies, will be contacting ERL and RED shortly.
The oil probably got there after the piston damage.
Old 12-17-2010, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Rusc6z06
Just to correct a few assumptions:
I was not spraying nitrous. I did however have the heads milled which raised the compression. I am not sure if it was cylinder #7, the cylinder that cracked was the one closest to the driver.

I was surprised myself that the MAF could cause such a serious problem. But there was oil on it, right when I took it in to get it checked out the shop took the intake off in front of me and I saw with my very eyes that the the CAI part of the intake was flooded with oil and the MAF was covered in it.

And no I did not over oil the intake, in fact I have not oiled it since I got it which is a lil over a year ago.

Thanks for the replies, will be contacting ERL and RED shortly.
Closest to the driver is indeed #7, which is the first to go when a tune is not spot on.

Was the intake valve in place on the head where the damage was suffered? I ask because if not, the oil will go back into the intake (along with coolant if you hit a water jacket) when the piston breaks.

Could you post pics of the failure?

Just for fun, this is what my intake looked like after our motor popped. My MAF, intake and filter were also covered, but it was secondary to the engine damage.



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