VettChick

I have an 07 c6 & want to move the battery to the passenger side rear compartment.

When wiring up the pos & neg cables in the engine compartment, where exactly do they attach to? I haven't pulled the battery yet to see where they are routed.

We are running 1 gauge welding cable for the positive from back to front & 1 gauge negative will connect directly to the rear frame.

Is there any other wiring necessary other then these 2, 1 gauge leads? Just trying to figure out what to order. I have read all the posts on this but are still a bit unsure.

PowerLabs

Follow the positive battery cable; it will end up on the starter motor; you can unbolt it from there and put the new cable in place.
For ground you can ground the battery in the trunk right into the frame. There is a really good write up on this forum on this if you search for "battery relocation"

What battery are you going with?

VettChick

Either:

PC1200t
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/batt...1200series.htm

or
ER30 or 40
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/er30.htm

or
Optima d51
http://www.optimabatteries.com/optim...wtop/specs.php

Not sure yet. I'm not concerned with the weight of the battery as much. More the fit & the power. I don't want to have to use a trickle charger or carry jumper cables either

adam205348

If you are not really concerned about the weight then I would go with the Optima Yellow Top D34 or D35. They are both higher CCA than the others and in your area where it gets pretty cold you would want the higher CCA. And the optimas looks to have higher reserve power than the others. D35 is the Corvette replacement but I believe the D34 will fit just fine and has even more power and reserver with just a little more weight.

VettChick

If the d35 or 34 fit in the pass compartment i will consider them. It is nice though that the d51 is 10lbs lighter then the d35.

How well do you think the d51 would serve me? NY weather. Car is in a climate controlled garage. Upgraded tuner with fan but no other amp work done. Basically stock electrical.

Joe_G

PM my buddy, user Theofel if you like. He did this and can share some tips and pitfalls with you. I know he did a thread but the search feature on our site s&cks now.

cencalc6

here's a little write I did, hope it helps

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...e-non-z06.html

oldmansan

If you have onstar, you'll want to relocate the unit in the rear cubby to make some room. Nice avatar.

San

vettemann62

HEY VETTCHICK,

Both the OPTIMA D34 & D35 fit perfectly in the rear pass. compartment. I tryed both before buying the D34. The D34 being a hair bigger & stronger. It was also less $$ then the D35!

I just bought one from autozone. 3 year, full replacement, $5 core charge. $189 + tx & core charge. Now I just have to order the cables to mount it in the trunk.

adam205348

I know you can read the specs on the website but just to point out what I am referring to easily. The D51 will be fine during the summer and if you actually drive your car quite a bit even during the winter. But if you put it up in storage over the winter which is common in your area then you will want a trickle charger to keep the battery up for those few months that it is up in storage. I personally do not like to put a battery in my car with less than 500 cranking amps for CCA or MCA and the D51 barely meets those requirements. PLus I just went and measured my passenger side cubby and in my 08 it is not deep enough to fit the D51 since it is almost 9in tall. I would measure yours before getting that one. The other two would also need a trickle charger if you expect to go out and start the car after 3-5 months of being stored other wise will need a charger right then to jump it. I would personaly go with the D35 if you are wanting to save a little bit of weight or D34 if you want pretty much the best long lasting and most powerful battery you can get.

Optima D51:
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) @ 0F: 450
Moderate Cranking Amps (MCA) @ 32F: 575
Reserve Capactiy: 66 mins with 25 Amp Draw

Optima D35:
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) @ 0F: 620
Moderate Cranking Amps (MCA) @ 32F: 770
Reserve Capactiy: 100 mins with 25 Amp Draw

Optima D34:
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) @ 0F: 750
Moderate Cranking Amps (MCA) @ 32F: 870
Reserve Capactiy: 120 mins with 25 Amp Draw

vettemann62

I was just about to order the battery cable connectors. For the starter connector I was going to order this compression coupler:

http://beta.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-21414/

It has a 3/8 inch eye. Is that the correct opening size to connect the positive cable to the starter? I was also gonna use these for the grounds.

adam205348

Yeah those are fine. I personally like to use the Brass Crimp on Connectors you can pick up from any welding supply store same place i pick up the 1 gauge welding cable. I do not crimp the connectors on. I clamp the fitting in a vise and with a torch heat it up and melt solder in the brass terminal and just stick the cable in the terminal for what I think is the best possible solid connection.

vettemann62

Thanks for taking the time to help Adam.

spiderpat

Wow, is that you in the Avatar???

k0bun

Oh sh*t Krissy is that you? This is Frankie P. We met at that Silicone Valley International Car Show last summer, remember? I was the guy in all black from Jersey and you made a joke because I was standing next to the all black Lambo Murc. You never mentioned you had a Corvette. Of course I didn't mention I had one either so... Nice to see you on here and great picks.

Wait, I just checked your profile and it says your name is Jennifer and you're from NY. Now I'm confused.

VettChick

Sorry, wasn't me

adam205348

Guys, come on leave the lovely lady alone. You would think she was on LS1tech or something.

Jennifer if you need any further assistance ask away and post of pics......(of your car) Hope you dont get chased off by some of these guys. lol

TTRotary

I put an Optima Blue top (Marine Deep Cycle) in my driver side cubby. It did not fit on the pass. side without major surgery to that cubby which I did not want to do. I chose that particular Optima because the top posts are wingnut, which is much easier to deal with in a tight space than the standard battery connections. Obviously the pass side would be better for weight, if you can do that.

Don't forget that DC current degrades very quickly over distance, even over the 14 feet of a car. Couple that with poor cables and a compact battery, and you may have weak starts and not much reserve capacity. Therefore, I do NOT recommend grounding to the frame. You should run a ground cable back to the starter or at the very least the original battery location. The reason is significant power loss and interference if you ground to the frame because of current leakage (frame is non-shielded). Your cable choice (welding 1G) is perfect. Do NOT use 1GA household Romex of the type sold at Lowe's, it does not have enough strands for DC current.