[Z06] BLACK 2007 Corvette Z06 detail (clay/polish/wax) PIC INTENSIVE
03-07-2010, 03:47 PM
#41
Safety Car
03-07-2010, 04:03 PM
#42
Pro
Great job! I am waiting for the stars to align (good weather and no family plans on a weekend) so I can polish mine. I got a Flex/Wolfgang kit from autogeek. hoping mine comes out as nice as yours did! (have a trial car to perfect the technique on, so I can be sure... no it's not Corvette paint, but still..)
03-07-2010, 05:10 PM
#44
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Agreed. The before pics I took were in the worst possible lighting - halogen and some flourescent. After the car was washed it did not look that bad, and the scratches on the left rear quarter were not that noticeable. However, it was annoying to me. But it looked okay before the detail, and great for a car that is almost three years old. I have seen many black cars three years old or less that look 10 times worse.
03-07-2010, 05:13 PM
#45
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yup, PO83Q is nothing more than SIP. it's confusing now. 
I still have the old bottle that says Intensive Polish and there's a yellow sticker placed on the bottle that says SUPER lol.
I've been a fan of SIP and 106FA, and if you want to go the extra mile PO85RD.
Cut level:
PO85Q (SIP) 3.8 - orange LC pad
106FA (replaced 106FF) 2.5 - green/white pad
PO85RD 1.0 grey pad
I want to try the blackfire wet ice over fire kit this summer.
I still have the old bottle that says Intensive Polish and there's a yellow sticker placed on the bottle that says SUPER lol.I've been a fan of SIP and 106FA, and if you want to go the extra mile PO85RD.
Cut level:
PO85Q (SIP) 3.8 - orange LC pad
106FA (replaced 106FF) 2.5 - green/white pad
PO85RD 1.0 grey pad
I want to try the blackfire wet ice over fire kit this summer.
03-07-2010, 06:48 PM
#46
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: Clouds Over California
Posts: 6,858
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I ended up spending around 8 hours on this detail (I did the interior a few days prior, so no before/after pics). The whole process ended up going a lot faster than I anticipated, and I took my time. My plan for the detail was to address most of the marring, address some deeper scratches, remove all the water spots, apply some sealant, and then a wax. I wasn't going for 100% correction. With the hard Corvette paint, I will need some more products for a 95% - 100% correction, but I am happy with the results from the Porter Cable. I still have more to do, like remove wheels and clean calipers and inside of the wheels. There are also some areas I want to use a more aggressive pad/polish combo for deeper scratches.
Process:
Wash w/Meguairs Gold Class
Clay bar with ONR as clay lube
Porter Cable
Meguiar's burgandy and yellow pads
PO85RD 3.02
PO106 FF
Poorboys EX-P
Chemical Guys 50/50
Wheels polished w/PO85RD, then 106FF
FK1 1000P on wheels
Mother mag wheel polish on exhaust
303 Aerospace on interior and black trim
Process:
Wash w/Meguairs Gold Class
Clay bar with ONR as clay lube
Porter Cable
Meguiar's burgandy and yellow pads
PO85RD 3.02
PO106 FF
Poorboys EX-P
Chemical Guys 50/50
Wheels polished w/PO85RD, then 106FF
FK1 1000P on wheels
Mother mag wheel polish on exhaust
303 Aerospace on interior and black trim
My wife has an 06 black Lexus and it is showing all of the signs of your before shots....not looking forward to doing it...might be easier to trade it it. lol.
03-07-2010, 08:08 PM
#47
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Here is the writeup:
http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/...erspray-vs.htm
03-09-2010, 12:46 AM
#49
Intermediate
Member Since: Aug 2008
Location: Syosset NY
Posts: 34
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Water spots (please help)
intheboost, I see you successfully took out some pretty nasty water spots, I've been trying to get some off my car for a while now.
I've worked up enough courage to give it another try, i did some research a while back on this forum and read that stripping down any wax thats on the car with dishwasher soap and scrubbing the water spots with watered down CLR (the stuff that removes Calcuim Lime and Rust) does the trick. It is said to strip the minerals imbedded in the clear coat that causes water spots. Funny I actually bought the stuff today and was going to try it next week but let me ask your advise first?
I used Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish in the fall but it slipt my mind to strip the wax (Rejex) first. Do you think thats why the water spots didnt come out and I should strip the wax and go with the Super Intensive Polish? Or should I try the CLR? Sorry for the ramble, and thanks for your help.
Dan
I've worked up enough courage to give it another try, i did some research a while back on this forum and read that stripping down any wax thats on the car with dishwasher soap and scrubbing the water spots with watered down CLR (the stuff that removes Calcuim Lime and Rust) does the trick. It is said to strip the minerals imbedded in the clear coat that causes water spots. Funny I actually bought the stuff today and was going to try it next week but let me ask your advise first?
I used Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish in the fall but it slipt my mind to strip the wax (Rejex) first. Do you think thats why the water spots didnt come out and I should strip the wax and go with the Super Intensive Polish? Or should I try the CLR? Sorry for the ramble, and thanks for your help.
Dan
07-22-2010, 02:03 PM
#51
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
intheboost, I see you successfully took out some pretty nasty water spots, I've been trying to get some off my car for a while now.
I've worked up enough courage to give it another try, i did some research a while back on this forum and read that stripping down any wax thats on the car with dishwasher soap and scrubbing the water spots with watered down CLR (the stuff that removes Calcuim Lime and Rust) does the trick. It is said to strip the minerals imbedded in the clear coat that causes water spots. Funny I actually bought the stuff today and was going to try it next week but let me ask your advise first?
I used Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish in the fall but it slipt my mind to strip the wax (Rejex) first. Do you think thats why the water spots didnt come out and I should strip the wax and go with the Super Intensive Polish? Or should I try the CLR? Sorry for the ramble, and thanks for your help.
Dan
I've worked up enough courage to give it another try, i did some research a while back on this forum and read that stripping down any wax thats on the car with dishwasher soap and scrubbing the water spots with watered down CLR (the stuff that removes Calcuim Lime and Rust) does the trick. It is said to strip the minerals imbedded in the clear coat that causes water spots. Funny I actually bought the stuff today and was going to try it next week but let me ask your advise first?
I used Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish in the fall but it slipt my mind to strip the wax (Rejex) first. Do you think thats why the water spots didnt come out and I should strip the wax and go with the Super Intensive Polish? Or should I try the CLR? Sorry for the ramble, and thanks for your help.
Dan
The problem with the water spots on my car was that the outline of the spot etched the clear coat. The spot was more or less removed with the claybar. The etching hung around though. If you have etching, then I think a PC or equivalent would work just fine with Meguiars M105 which I have recently fell in love with. Good luck either way!
You are correct, as it turns out apparently they were covered well! The Menzerna product I used took care of everything at the time of the detail. After a few months the same exact water spot etching marks came back! I just noticed this a few weeks ago and I could not believe it because everyone I talk to that uses Menzerna says there are no filling properties. After this experience I am now skeptical. I am now off the Menzerna train, and just recently tried out Meguiars M105 and absolutely love it as an aggressive polish. Last week I used the PC with the Meguiars burgundy pad and M105 and the etching was again taken care of. This time I did a 50/50 IPA wipedown to check for filling. After the wipedown the spots were still nowhere to be seen. Time will tell if these spots decide to come back again! I don't think I will ever use the SIP by Menzerna again. I still do like their final polishes however.
12-23-2012, 11:16 PM
#56
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yea, and this was on a VERY low mile '07.
I don't even know how many hours I have in the detail of the '09 I just bought, with many more to come:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...-progress.html
I don't even know how many hours I have in the detail of the '09 I just bought, with many more to come:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...-progress.html
12-23-2012, 11:46 PM
#58
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yes, I probably will. Won't be completely done until after the 1st of the year. Still working on the trim, and need to pull the wheels and do the wheel wells, brakes, and inside of wheels.
12-24-2012, 08:09 AM
#60
Question....I have a '08 Z...with a lot of road rash on the fender walls
and front end ...In the begining picture they showed up on your Z.... finished pictures there gone......So bad on my Z I'm thinking of repainting..... Your Z looks great....where did the rock rash go, or is it still there under the wax?.......
and front end ...In the begining picture they showed up on your Z.... finished pictures there gone......So bad on my Z I'm thinking of repainting..... Your Z looks great....where did the rock rash go, or is it still there under the wax?.......