CheckSix

I have a '13 GS mn6 also and see the same temps as the OP. I generally wait until the oil temp hits 140*F before I start playing with it. It generally runs in the 162 - 175*F range, all warmed up. That is normal for this car, up in these latitudes. I'm sure the oil (M1) is doing it's job. My air cooled v-twins run at 200*F, so it makes sense a water cooled motor, with an oil cooler runs 30*F cooler in oil temp.

Knob Jockey

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COMMANDER2OOO

I leave mine on oil pressure an speaking of which do anybody know what normal oil pressure is? lately iv been noticing my psi droping into the teens at idle once everything's all heated up the car runs fine no knocking or any noise from the engine but that still seem a little low. I talked to my mechanic about it he says its ok not to worry about it just curious as to what u guys think ?

Gearhead Jim

I do exactly the same, even though we have a wet sump LS3 with no cooler. My oil takes quite a while before it stabilizes at 210-230, depending on outside temp and how fast I'm going on the highway.

My personal choice is to go easy on the power until oil reaches 180, preferably 190. And I can provide expert opinion to support that choice.
What I can't provide is any evidence that lower oil temps hurt the LS3, if you simply let it stabilize at whatever you get, before romping on the throttle.
The LS7 may be different, but I haven't followed that story enough to know.

CorvetteSparky

Typically either instant or average MPG.

BROCKYJACK

Mine too.

C6ROLLER

I do the exact same thing as the OP, scroll then leave on oil temp until it hits 150, then WOT next chance I get.

AORoads

I usually cycle thru tires in first few miles, then oil, water on my '08 manual trans. Settle on oil temp, and cycle thru water and tires occasionally. I'll see 205-220 oil temp normally. Cooler days, it takes a long time to warm up oil or water. I can't recall last time I looked at mpg; just clear it after gas up. (altho I write down miles and cost in a book, the last time I manually checked mpg was maybe three years ago, or more.)

dev1360

Mine stays almost permanently on Oil Temp. My Wet Sump LS3 cruises at 215-230 under most conditions. I've seen as high as 259* when driving hard.

DSteck, automotive engineer and tuner extraordinaire told me not to worry about oil temps until 290*+.

And FWIW, the warm viscosity of oil is rated at 200* IIRC. I don't go WOT until 150-160* oil temps, but if the car was previously warm, I've stomped as soon as 120*. Spinning to 7k RPMs.

franman69

Palmer Performance Dashlogic.. Now I monitor all four tire pressures on the DIC and I have the HUD set for EOT, ECT, IAT and AMB... There's EIGHT pages of options you an put on your DIC and HUD.. great stuff!

BTW.. 140-160 is too low for operating temp on the EOT... really wants to be at least 185-205 before you get on it. (now.. there's your controversy!)

TLS_Addict

You dont have chrome wheels. Keep your thoughts to yourself. Aint no place for people like you.

harmonyp

I cycle thru regularly, and when she's warmed up I also see similar - around 212 to 223. Thanks for post, now I won't freak if I see her 230ish.

Hameister

I'm WOT at 160. No problems. You're just a trouble maker.

I'm finding it interesting, that so many people like myself, primarily monitor their oil temp.

Gaskill

I believe that people monitor whatever worries them the most. On my car it's coolant temperature. When running cool, all is well.

LMB-Z

2k Cobra

Very good point. When I had my 07 Z, on a cool day the oil temp never got over 162F. Not good..

Our 13 GS wet sump gets right to and over 200F in short order.

jedblanks

I agree. Needs to be 200+ to work well. 200-260 is best. Higher no good, lower no good.

Moisture won't boil off until 220 +

Hameister

I love they way you guys make blanket statements...."NEEDS TO BE 200+ TO WORK WELL. Anything more, or less is no good. PERIOD!

If what you, and others are saying is fact, then one must draw the obvious conclusion, that the G.M. engineers who designed the oil cooling system for my 2013 GS were incompetent and had no idea what they were doing.

The normal operating temps of my oil is 160 to 190 degs., depending on conditions. It's never 200+.

I'd love to be there when you guys like you, tell the design engineers for my oil cooling system, that the oil is too cool, and detrimental to the proper operation of the engine. I'd really enjoy listening to you defend your position.

Gaskill

Go get them Tiger!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

CheckSix

exactly right!

Paying attention to the Zinc additive (ZDDP) level in the oil is interesting. ZDDP leaves a film on high load metal surfaces and protects them better than not having it there. ZDDP was reduced in oils over the last 10-20 yrs. Older engine designs need the ZDDP additive for protection and some current oils do not have enough ZDDP in the base oil stock for ideal protection. For those of us that use the car as design intended, ergo: run hard, you may want to research this. Mobil 1 makes some M1 variants with higher ZDDP additive.

Most modern oils adequately protect the internal engine metal surfaces after start up, even if it is only 40*F or colder. I just go easy, no high engine loads, until the coolant temp comes up to normal and oil temp gets to 130-140*F-ish. Then I begin to increase engine load.

I think the important part is, to make sure the engine metal components have come up to temperature.... pistons, cylinders, rods, block, heads and are all done with their thermal expansion. If the coolant temp is at normal operating temp, the motor internals are up to temp but the oil temp will lag behind for several minutes. Once the oil starts to get above 140-ish, I think its good to go.

The quickest way to warm the oil, is to drive the car. Warm-up idling, won't do it as effectively.