gej

Hello to all,
Looking for solution to low beam failure on 2005 C6 - I have read numerous threads from previous dates. Checking to see if anyone knows of a solution... Low beams will come on for a predetermined amount of time when the unlock button is pushed and the approach lights are activated. Turning the selector ring on the multi function lever will turn on all lights except the low beams. The last time the low beams worked while in the on position, they only stayed on for 100' past the drive way. Then darkness except for the parking lights...At this point you must select hi beams or fog lamps to light the roadway. I don't think anything had time to "Heat Up" since the engine never even made it to operating temp. before the lights went out. Any help would be appreciated.

ProfessorDeath

Could be an inverter or igniter issue.

Knob Jockey

Assuming you've swapped the low beam mini relay (#47) with one of the others to test the circuit, the problem may be the fuse box.

Since the problem is common to both lights, IMHO it's unlikely that both fuses are blown or that both ballasts and/or lamps have failed.

The 'approach' lights are your high beams.

This thread shows the details of the repair/replacement of the wire that has failed in many fuse boxes.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...dlights-5.html

MikeERWNC

I will bet it is the fuse block wiring...

The fuse block is wired with 20 gauge copper. Any moisture will corrode the wire.
There is a fix and it is rather simply if you have an hour and some patience.
Do your Windshield washer while you are at it , so you don't have to do it later.

Here is the link for the how to:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...dlights-5.html

gej

@**** Jockey..I know the Brights are suppose to be the "approach" lights but on this red vette they are not the "approach lights every time...sometimes the dim lights come on as the "approach lights ...kinda weird I know...I think it's brain may be fried. Last night upon start up the lights worked like they are suppose to while in the "on" position, once swapped to "auto" position the dims went out & did not come back on. I will be continuing to test them to see what makes them fail & try to find a pattern. two days ago when the dims were coming on as the "approach" lights they would not work at all with the selector band in "auto" or "on" The brights lights did work when the multi function switch was activated to bright position. Thanks for the input from all. Please stand by while a continue trouble shooting.

MikeERWNC

Yep...
You just described the fuse block issue I posted above.
The lights will come on. Once the copper heats up it can not longer support the amount of current needed to maintain the headlights.

As a quick fix until I had the time to properly fix mine, I ran a jumper from my parking lights to the first headlight fuse.
This allowed me to have headlights.

There is another quick fix:
Pull off the fuse block.
The top wire in this picture can be added and your headlights will work.

gej

Thanks Mike, I haven't even talked to the dealer about this. For two reasons, they probably won't admit that there is an issue when there clearly is one and I have not pin pointed every detail of the ghostly way it acts.
Sometimes the brights are the approach , sometimes the dims, sometimes neither (only the parking lights) I read on some earlier post about disassembling the fuse box, it stated that something would have to be groud off with a grinder?? Was that the case during dismantling the fuse box...Also read where some people were talking about changing the fuse box on the passenger side floor area. What i have come to realize is that not all info is correct. trying to discern right from wrong is the issue.
I owned a 98 dodge durango that the a/c blower would come on after opening the door with the ignition off & keys removed. and by the way the dealer was no help at all.
I filed a complaint with the safety board in hopes that if everyone would maybe Chevy would be forced to act.

MikeERWNC

GM is a bit different than Dodge.
GM seems to have power to almost everything in the fuse block, always. The ground turns stuff on and off.
Dodge is quite the opposite. If you turn off the key in a Dodge, there is no power in the fuse block to most fuses.

The quick fix with the 20 gauge wire in the picture above can be done without prying the bolts out of the top half of the fuse block.
This wire is at the bottom of the fuse block and you don't have to remove fuses to access it.

But if you do pry out the bolts in the fuse block you will be able to see how extensive the moisture damage is.

My Wiper washer and headlights were not working in my car.
When I opened it up I found several more wires on their way out which I was quickly able to replace while I was in there.
Once you split open the fuse block, you will immediately see the green/brown discoloration where the copper is bad.
Now I have no more electrical worries.

MikeERWNC

You could always pick up another:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-2008-C6-Corvette-Under-Hood-Fuse-Block-Box-Panel-15940756-/271132449985?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f20c0dcc1&vxp=mtr

gej

I was a little confused looking at the pictures....since they appear to be different. Apparently one side is the "hot" side & the other is the ground side (one picture has two prongs & one picture has single prongs) Installing the back up wire where you sugggested Mike fixed the problem...I used a dremel tool to remove the flared area on the sleeves. 2 hour project thanks to the great help of others sharing their problems & fixes....There is strength in numbers...My lights work now in "auto" position & "on" position as well. Istill think GM should "man up" & fix this issue... These are not cheap cars...with all the publicity Toyota got from the "run-a-way" cars, too bad someone hasn't got the media involved in this un-safe condition.

MildBill

How about this with headlights going out while driving:

http://www.torquenews.com/106/100k-c...light-failures

From the article:

According to the Detroit News, owners believe that this low beam headlight failure is due to a problematic fuse block under the hood.

I just had my fuse block replaced for an intermittent no start condition. That was of course after all manner of other things were replaced…which DID NOT fix the car.

c6crazy

Mine is in the shop and hey claim its a ballast. One was bad causing the other to overheat and shutdown. I showed them the post about the fuse block. If my problem continues after fix someone going to owe me a refund. GM needs to man up before lawsuits start flying because someone gets hurt or worst killed. Maybe the masses can complaint enough to start a recall.

SirVenox

How you do it without taking out the 4 bolts? I did not fix mine because I couldnt pry out the bolts.

gej

After extensive research on these forums...I used a dremel tool with a small grinding wheel to remove the flared area so the bolts could be removed.
Then used bell wire to add a wire.
Once you get the bolts out it expose the area you need to work on. But it can be disassembled further. If you look at the pictures you can see that the "pins" are different unless you take the two remaining halves apart.
If you can change plug wires you can do this.
And it does fix the intermittent no low beam problem. Link for complaint below

http://search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A0oGd...nt/index.xhtml