Another method for jacking / lifting / supporting C6 - PICS!!!
#141
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '09
Have a great what's-left-of-the-weekend everybody!
Rob
#144
Burning Brakes
Here is a method for jacking and supporting a C6 using ONLY the "preferred" jacking locations. All four wheels off the ground. Lots of room under the car to work (oil changes, etc.) Very secure.
All that's needed are two rolling hydraulic floor jacks, four jack stands, two cross beam adapters and a few planks.
In the photos below, the rolling hydraulic jack used at the front of the car is an AC Hydraulic DK13HLQ low-profile, long-reach jack. It fits just right, reaches the larger front cross member of the car and still sticks out far enough to allow full pumping of lever. Other hydraulic floor jacks may work here, you'll have to experiment.
Two low-profile, long-reach jacks favored by forum members are the AC DK13HLQ and the Omega 29023 - detailed comparison here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1814892
Jack stands used in the photos below are Blackhawk Automotive forklift stands, details below in post #4.
The cross beam adapters - you'll need two. Only $29.99 each from NorthernTool.com. As shown in photos, the adapter used at the rear of the car can be left stock. The one used at the front of the car must be altered slightly.... just pull off the side extensions and add rubber pads on top of the main center piece at each end.
Note: in order to use the above described cross beam adapter in an AC brand jack, you will need to grind the 1.15" main pin of the adapter down a bit since the hole in AC jacks is only 1.00" (unlike most American jacks which have a 1.130" hole).
Directions:
1. -Get front wheels 2" - 3" above the ground by driving up on some planks
2. -Place jack with "altered" cross beam adapter under front main cross member of car (underneath the PREFERRED jacking locations)... make sure the rubber pads on the adapter touch only the preferred jacking locations... nothing will touch center of cross member
3. - Place two jack stands under the cross beam adapter, directly under the preferred jacking locations, lower weight of car onto stands, leave jack in place for added safety
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for rear of car, except use "stock" cross beam adapter
Car is now off the ground and fully supported by ONLY the "preferred" jacking locations.
All that's needed are two rolling hydraulic floor jacks, four jack stands, two cross beam adapters and a few planks.
In the photos below, the rolling hydraulic jack used at the front of the car is an AC Hydraulic DK13HLQ low-profile, long-reach jack. It fits just right, reaches the larger front cross member of the car and still sticks out far enough to allow full pumping of lever. Other hydraulic floor jacks may work here, you'll have to experiment.
Two low-profile, long-reach jacks favored by forum members are the AC DK13HLQ and the Omega 29023 - detailed comparison here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1814892
Jack stands used in the photos below are Blackhawk Automotive forklift stands, details below in post #4.
The cross beam adapters - you'll need two. Only $29.99 each from NorthernTool.com. As shown in photos, the adapter used at the rear of the car can be left stock. The one used at the front of the car must be altered slightly.... just pull off the side extensions and add rubber pads on top of the main center piece at each end.
Note: in order to use the above described cross beam adapter in an AC brand jack, you will need to grind the 1.15" main pin of the adapter down a bit since the hole in AC jacks is only 1.00" (unlike most American jacks which have a 1.130" hole).
Directions:
1. -Get front wheels 2" - 3" above the ground by driving up on some planks
2. -Place jack with "altered" cross beam adapter under front main cross member of car (underneath the PREFERRED jacking locations)... make sure the rubber pads on the adapter touch only the preferred jacking locations... nothing will touch center of cross member
3. - Place two jack stands under the cross beam adapter, directly under the preferred jacking locations, lower weight of car onto stands, leave jack in place for added safety
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for rear of car, except use "stock" cross beam adapter
Car is now off the ground and fully supported by ONLY the "preferred" jacking locations.
#145
Le Mans Master<br><img src="/forums/images/ranks/5k-6k.gif" border="0">
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
#148
Burning Brakes
cross beam adapters
Who has the proper length of the front & rear bar. (end to end)
I want to fab a couple up
Thanks in advance
G
Last edited by Gman57; 07-14-2009 at 11:28 PM.
#149
Drifting
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Just drive up on a couple of 2X8 wood pieces and a normal jack will jack up the car, nothing like spending extra cash to over complicate things.
That low profile jack is useless if you have a flat, trust me!
That low profile jack is useless if you have a flat, trust me!
#150
Very nice. I can build one of those cross beams specifically for the Corvette...short length of 4" channel, 3" length of round bar stock, and a 3" X 3" piece of 1/2" plate for a bearing surface. QED
I may have to get me one of those high dollar jacks too. I see why they work now; the chassis of the jack is about 3.5-4 feet long.
I may have to get me one of those high dollar jacks too. I see why they work now; the chassis of the jack is about 3.5-4 feet long.
Last edited by LionGS; 05-17-2010 at 09:56 PM.
#151
Burning Brakes
I used 4x2x3/16 tube
G
Last edited by Gman57; 05-17-2010 at 10:49 PM.
#153
Pro
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Location: Dawson Springs Kentucky
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Probably a little late with this answer, but yes you can. Did this with the 2000 and 2005 both. I always lifted from the front first since it was already up on the ramps, caught it off with the stands in lowest position, then dropped the jack and went to the rear. Brought it up about 4-5 inches higher than front, put the stands under then went back to the front and did final lift. Reversed to bring it down. Reason for 3 steps was because I did not feel comfortable trying to bring one end up in one big lift. Guess I was just too cheap to buy two jacks when there was no need. As a side note also made my on cross bars with steel channel. Good luck
#154
Where to get extra rubber pads????
OK, I know this is an old.....but Great thread, but I was wondering if any of you found or came up with a solution for rubber pads for the front cross member using this cross beam adapter. I would like to just have an extra set to permanently glue or Velcro to the cross beam adapter.
Mack
Mack
#156
Here you go!!! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-918008/
It use to cost $29 from Northern Tool but they no longer carry it.
It use to cost $29 from Northern Tool but they no longer carry it.
#159
Pro
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Nice setup, been doing exactly the same way since my 2k C5. Made a set of cross beams myself out of 4 in channel, web side up with wood blocks topped with rubber pads for contact points (working out of town now, but will post some pics when back at home puter). Put bolts with a stack of washers in the center to fit the pad on my jack. Actually do this with one jack. As you said drive the front up on some homemade 6" high ramps to get the jack and beam under the front. Lift it and put the stands under. Move jack to rear (which i put on pieces of 1" board for clearance), then jack rear and put on stands. I need the extra clearance under the rear because I do not use a low clearance jack, just a good one from Sears. This same set of cross beams worked without mod on the C5 and C6. It is surprising how stable the car is like this but when you think about it most of the weight is still between the support points and this is where GM recommends the lift be made.