Trouble with aftermarket radio install
#1
Trouble with aftermarket radio install
hi,
just recently purchased a single din radio. It fit fine, I tapped into the yellow wire underneath the passenger footboard by the bcm for power. The problem is, when I turned the car on, the radio turned on but it drew excessive power from my battery. I dropped as low as 10v. So I pulled the power from there and tried to tap into fuse #22 with a fuse tap, but now the radio won't turn on at all. Any suggestions? Maybe another place to draw power from?
Thanks in advance,
mike
just recently purchased a single din radio. It fit fine, I tapped into the yellow wire underneath the passenger footboard by the bcm for power. The problem is, when I turned the car on, the radio turned on but it drew excessive power from my battery. I dropped as low as 10v. So I pulled the power from there and tried to tap into fuse #22 with a fuse tap, but now the radio won't turn on at all. Any suggestions? Maybe another place to draw power from?
Thanks in advance,
mike
#3
#5
Burning Brakes
There is no power wire in an adapter harness..
Tap into fuse under pass side kick panel fuse block.
There are a couple that have power ON in acc position and in run position
Tap into fuse under pass side kick panel fuse block.
There are a couple that have power ON in acc position and in run position
#7
Melting Slicks
hi,
just recently purchased a single din radio. It fit fine, I tapped into the yellow wire underneath the passenger footboard by the bcm for power. The problem is, when I turned the car on, the radio turned on but it drew excessive power from my battery. I dropped as low as 10v. So I pulled the power from there and tried to tap into fuse #22 with a fuse tap, but now the radio won't turn on at all. Any suggestions? Maybe another place to draw power from?
Thanks in advance,
mike
just recently purchased a single din radio. It fit fine, I tapped into the yellow wire underneath the passenger footboard by the bcm for power. The problem is, when I turned the car on, the radio turned on but it drew excessive power from my battery. I dropped as low as 10v. So I pulled the power from there and tried to tap into fuse #22 with a fuse tap, but now the radio won't turn on at all. Any suggestions? Maybe another place to draw power from?
Thanks in advance,
mike
1) Black is ground
2) Yellow is switched power via fuse #11
3) Orange is hot at all times via fuse #7
These wires are not present in the 04 C5, therefore power has to be provided from a different source.
#8
For the 97-03 models in the passenger's foot well behind the toe kick panel and to the left of the BCM are three wires that are blunt cut and taped over:
1) Black is ground
2) Yellow is switched power via fuse #11
3) Orange is hot at all times via fuse #7
These wires are not present in the 04 C5, therefore power has to be provided from a different source.
1) Black is ground
2) Yellow is switched power via fuse #11
3) Orange is hot at all times via fuse #7
These wires are not present in the 04 C5, therefore power has to be provided from a different source.
#10
never mind, killed my battery again. Back to square 1. Noting that the yellow wire (yes, the pigtail one next to the bcm on the passenger footboard) has been the culprit. Does the black ground wire from the pigtail need to be grounded as well? This is the only other thing I can think of
#11
Pro
never mind, killed my battery again. Back to square 1. Noting that the yellow wire (yes, the pigtail one next to the bcm on the passenger footboard) has been the culprit. Does the black ground wire from the pigtail need to be grounded as well? This is the only other thing I can think of
#12
Melting Slicks
Usually headunits require an always on (low current) power source to retain settings and a switched (high current) source to operate. Have you double-checked all connections between the radio harness and the adapting harness?
Last edited by GCG; 08-26-2017 at 01:06 PM.
#13
Melting Slicks
You didn't mention if you're keeping the rest of the system intact and just replacing the headunit.
If that is the case, to properly do this you will need an adapter (not just a harness) to provide the required interface. This is due to the way the factory system was designed.
The 2 most common adapters are:
Replacing the head unit should be just plug-and-play by using either one. Both have setup adjustments to customize sound/levels. After tweaking them to your liking, they shouldn't require further touching.
If that is the case, to properly do this you will need an adapter (not just a harness) to provide the required interface. This is due to the way the factory system was designed.
The 2 most common adapters are:
Replacing the head unit should be just plug-and-play by using either one. Both have setup adjustments to customize sound/levels. After tweaking them to your liking, they shouldn't require further touching.
#14
You didn't mention if you're keeping the rest of the system intact and just replacing the headunit.
If that is the case, to properly do this you will need an adapter (not just a harness) to provide the required interface. This is due to the way the factory system was designed.
The 2 most common adapters are:
Replacing the head unit should be just plug-and-play by using either one. Both have setup adjustments to customize sound/levels. After tweaking them to your liking, they shouldn't require further touching.
If that is the case, to properly do this you will need an adapter (not just a harness) to provide the required interface. This is due to the way the factory system was designed.
The 2 most common adapters are:
Replacing the head unit should be just plug-and-play by using either one. Both have setup adjustments to customize sound/levels. After tweaking them to your liking, they shouldn't require further touching.
#15
Supplying power through a switched source to the radio cannot, per se, cause the battery to die. Have you checked to see if the radio remains powered after turning it off and shutting down the car? How about the door-mounted subwoofer amps? These amps should turn off and on together with the headunit.
Usually headunits require an always on (low current) power source to retain settings and a switched (high current) source to operate. Have you double-checked all connections between the radio harness and the adapting harness?
Usually headunits require an always on (low current) power source to retain settings and a switched (high current) source to operate. Have you double-checked all connections between the radio harness and the adapting harness?
#16
#17
Melting Slicks
checked all connections. The radio turns off with the ignition. The amps turn off as well. A bit frustrating, since everything is hooked up and works as it should with the tapped power source. Only issue is the drop in voltage followed killing the battery minutes after letting it sit. Fuse tap didn't work, unfortunately
If this is happening even when using an ignition-switched power source, there's a possibility that the drain is occurring through the only other power connection to the headunit: the always hot wire needed to retain settings. Have you measured the current through that wire when everything is turned off? It should be very, very low.
Just to double-check, is the BLUE WHITE from radio connected to BLUE on the PAC ROEM-VET1? If you wired "blue white" to "blue white" instead, your door subs will not turn on and then no real bass. On the other hand, if the BLUE on the PAC ROEM-VET1 is wired to an always hot source then your door sub's will never turn off, draining your battery.
#18
Le Mans Master
You might want to contact Dennis at Double D Mods.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...le-d-mods.html
He's the guru when it comes to radio installations on the C5.
Good luck... GUSTO
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...le-d-mods.html
He's the guru when it comes to radio installations on the C5.
Good luck... GUSTO
#19
Intermediate
hi,
just recently purchased a single din radio. It fit fine, I tapped into the yellow wire underneath the passenger footboard by the bcm for power. The problem is, when I turned the car on, the radio turned on but it drew excessive power from my battery. I dropped as low as 10v. So I pulled the power from there and tried to tap into fuse #22 with a fuse tap, but now the radio won't turn on at all. Any suggestions? Maybe another place to draw power from?
Thanks in advance,
mike
just recently purchased a single din radio. It fit fine, I tapped into the yellow wire underneath the passenger footboard by the bcm for power. The problem is, when I turned the car on, the radio turned on but it drew excessive power from my battery. I dropped as low as 10v. So I pulled the power from there and tried to tap into fuse #22 with a fuse tap, but now the radio won't turn on at all. Any suggestions? Maybe another place to draw power from?
Thanks in advance,
mike
#20
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
LMAO!! If attaching the head unit to that pigtail YELLOW wire is KILLING an 800 AMP Battery, bud,,, you better call the fire department!
Here is the source of your problem.
That SWITCHED Yellow Wire is powered through the IGNITION SWITCH.
The VOLT METER in your car on the IPC,,, DOES NOT,, display actual BATTERY VOLTAGE.
It displays the voltage out of the IGNITION SWITCH.
Your IGNITION SWITCH is defective. VERY VERY VERY COMMON issue.
The contacts inside the switch get carboned arced up and when the load increases the contacts drop voltage just like you are seeing>
Here is a post that will help ya:
- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Let me know how you make out...
Bill
Here is the source of your problem.
That SWITCHED Yellow Wire is powered through the IGNITION SWITCH.
The VOLT METER in your car on the IPC,,, DOES NOT,, display actual BATTERY VOLTAGE.
It displays the voltage out of the IGNITION SWITCH.
Your IGNITION SWITCH is defective. VERY VERY VERY COMMON issue.
The contacts inside the switch get carboned arced up and when the load increases the contacts drop voltage just like you are seeing>
Here is a post that will help ya:
- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Let me know how you make out...
Bill