93civEJ1

Ok so I finished my cam swap last night. It fired right up. I let it warm a while as topped off fluids. Started again a min ago an let it idle a while. Decided to check a couple codes and raise the rear up to get a more accurate check of fluids with car level. I had a 02 sensor code. I don't remember unplugging any f those. I had a random misfire code that was in history. And a u1064 or something can't communicate with bcm? Anyway I cleared the codes and went to fire the car up again to see where I might be dripping some coolant. I changed to new pump gaskets and all the hoses look good. I can't figure out why the car won't fire over now all of a sudden since I cleared the codes and raised the car. Also ideas where else to look for water leak?? I am afraid its at the water pump because its flinging off some of the pulleys. Im not sure how it would be leaking as I installed new gaskets and torqued down in 2 passes as recommended.

The p0161 sensor code I'm not really worried about. The p0300 misfire is probably cause the new cam and no tune yet. The u1064 is the one i feel that is giving me issue.

My battery does seem to be a little low, but I dont think low enough to not turn the car over...it just wont fire.

baxsom

P0300 is normally caused by a bad spark plug or wire.

93civEJ1

mmmmmm....im going more along the lines of having a big cam. Spark plugs and wires are all new.

nullpointer

Yes P300 is most likely due to larger cam and no tune. Double check your grounds to be sure for the u1064 code.

93civEJ1

I was told on LS1tech that a u1064 would not keep the car from starting.
I checked one ground last night and redid it under the battery.

I do notice something odd, i put my battery on the charger night all night. in the car with the key on it showed only like 12 to 13 volts, so I went out to check the battery this morning and the light on the charger is still red like the battery is not charging.

When cranking the motor was def turning over, and seemed that it was spinning fast enough to fire if it wanted to. I am planning to replace the battery today, but I feel thats not the issue.

warlock007

I would think clearing the codes would have nothing to do with it considering you started it twice, did you following the manufactures procedures for braking in the cam? again nothing to do with the no start issue.

Have you checked fuel lines? verify fuses are good? fuel pump runs? battery your checking but seems either your charger went out, is the charger or battery hot? if battery is then charger is pushing charge into it but not stopping or there is a constant draw on the system. Cam sensor or plug?

Hopefully Bill Curlee will jump in soon on this.

I most times run with the U1064 code and others under the U series, will not effect starting at all

93civEJ1

Ok, now i really am puzzled.

I took the battery to autozone, my charger was showing wrong, battery is fully charged.

Ok so I take the battery back home, fill up with coolant, and fire it up...fires up instantly. I let it warm up to temp at idle and top off fluids. Purred like a kitten.

Power the car off. Then go to crank again, it wont start..just turns but wont fire up. If i mash the gas the car will start, but as soon as I let off it will die.

93civEJ1

Fuel lines seem ok...I pressed on the pressure valve and gas comes spewing out at pressure. Checked the main fuses all look ok.

93civEJ1

Also, I have no codes since I cleared them last night.

warlock007

well we know the battery is good and when you disconnected it, it reset the system. when it started was it normal, could you hit gas and all went as required?

Disconnect the battery again for 15-20 minutes and see if the same thing happens.

Have you ever done Bill Curlee's ignition switch cleaning process? Dont know if it would have anything to do with it but worth the chance

93civEJ1

Never heard of it...I will check it out...I will go disconnect the cable right now.

Ill try to crank it again in about 20 mins or so and see what happens.

I also tried the relay jumper on 35 for the fuel pump...the jumper made no difference either.

warlock007

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

93civEJ1

Also why it was idling a min ago I did not hit the gas or anything. I was just letting it idle up to temp...and everything sounded great and it fired right off. Its almost sounding more electrical than anything.v

93civEJ1

ok I went out...hooked battery back up...crank, no start. Cranked again but foot on the gas, started up...I had to feather the gas and keep the rpm's up and then let off and it would drop and correct itself.

So this morning it started fine on its on, no throttle needed...now I can get it going with foot on the gas and letting off slowly. If i blip the throttle it will dip way down unless it dies. Cut on the AC and it dies instantly.

warlock007

I would try to contact Bill Curlee at this point, it could be a fuel pump, fuel filter, vacuum leak(maybe), check throttle body connections and check for leaks. the little vacuum line on the back of the intake

It could just be that it needs a tune at this point to address AFM, throttle blade position etc.

in any case it sounds like a fuel delivery issue or to much air

will it start every time now with the gas pushed?

93civEJ1

yeah...it will start with the gas. I am wondering now if its just an air issue like maybe a vacuum leak somewhere. I think my uncle may bring over a propane bottle later and us try that and see if we can find out where. Could it be intake manifold gaskets? I did not replace those and probably should have.

Also, to make matters worse, I am still leaking water, even after redoing my pump last night. I have no idea where its coming from. It has new gaskets. I made sure I cleaned all the mating surfaces on the pump and engine. None of the hoses look to be leaking. Yet, its still wet under the middle of the car.

:/

I also did find that my buddy had not snapped down all my plug wires on the coils completely. I did that, but that not make any difference. So next I am starting to think air leak somewhere. I know that the little tube on the back of the manifold is plugged in because I have checked it numerous times.

warlock007

are you sure its coming from the pump? maybe it is a bad pump if it is. check the coolant line that runs under the intake, those little gaskets are known to leak if used. you can try using RTV blue around the gaskets. if one was left off it will defiantly leak as i had one do the same thing.

Yes intake leak is a real possibility, take it back off and check gaskets, used ones should be ok as long as its seated right. verify the rear vacuum line is/was attached and reseat the intake making sure it looks and feels solid in place before bolting down and make sure you torque down as book states. while this is off you will be able to verify the coolant line that runs under it. take it off and verify the gaskets are on and not torn

78GEN3

I think your starting problem is from the fact that you installed a cam and haven't done any tuning. Seems like it starts fine cold, but after warmed up won't restart without applying throttle. Most likely the PCM has moved off the cold start up tables and isn't adding the additional throttle needed to get it to start.

93civEJ1

Could be, what I dont get though, is how all of these people run a bigger cam MS4 etc and are able to have no start issue etc.

Mine is close to spec of a MS3.

For the leaks...yeah im not following what gaskets he is speaking of that are under the trottle body? The only things I know of there are a hose going in the driver side, and one coming out the driver side...both of those look fine.

I am afraid I will just need to do a new water pump.

warlock007

the gaskets are on the water tube that are fed from the radiator, the 2 in front and 2 in back that have 10mm heads that, the ls6 style are just plugs in the rear and have a cross over in the front. send your number through pm and ill take a picture and text it to you if your not sure what I'm talking about