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Electrical gremlins?

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Old 08-07-2012, 02:00 AM
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VortexPoweredZ06
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Default Electrical gremlins?

2001 Z06 Corvette.

Okay I have no idea what is going on so in addition to my explanation I took a video of it occurring, This is actually the first time it started flickering once the car was on normally if the car turns on it is fine, before tonight it has just flickered at me when I turned the key to on. (http://youtu.be/Z4-2Ht7M3qE)

It first occurred about 4 days ago. I turned the key and before I could even attempt to start the car it started flickering at me very fast and would not even get thru the normal gauges moving from left to right and the "Corvette by Chevrolet" Would not appear.I tried turning the car on and even though it was turning it would not fire. I checked the terminals turned it over the car started even though it was flickering and then everything was fine and the flickering lights went away. I turned the car off and back on without problem and drove it the hour home.

The next day I replaced the battery, cleaned the terminals, replaced the side post and the problem went away. For a day. Then it started doing it randomly for the last few days but once the car was on I had 0 issues on my hour drive each way to and from work...

Then tonight, it did it again at work I tried to check to see if I could see any arcing off the positive battery cable and I didnt see anything while the car was in the on position I started messing with the relays and switching them around because I could here one clicking. When I pulled the Ignition Relay I heard the bells for Reduced Horse Power. I checked the car and I indeed had RHP and code P1518 with a traction light on. I turned the car off cleared the code and put the relays back in the lights were still flickering but I started the car and drove 58Minutes home when the car turned off on me. The blower motor, lights, radio were all still on but the car said low voltage and the engine was off as was the instrument cluster. I tried to pop the clutch no change turned the key fired right up and turned into my driveway...

I in the not to distance pass have gone thru every ground on that car twice so I do not think that is a issue at all. I read a little on the P1518 but I do not know if that is actually my issue like I stated it only came on when I pulled that relay. But I still checked fuse #17 under the hood and it was fine with 12v. Which is odd since the car persists that it currently has low voltage.
So I am unsure what I actually should check or how to go about it... Before tonight my plan was to just thoroughly check the positive for arcing but I am uncertain if that is even a plausible cause for all of these issues. Any thoughts would be great. Only thing I can think atm is try to get a new TAC module.
Old 08-07-2012, 09:06 AM
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Tuffguy610
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Did the battery you replaced have a leak? There is ALOT of wiring underneath the battery (go figure), and damage can occur to the connections/wires if the battery leaks. The previous owner of my car put in an Optima Red Top dry cell so this won't happen, but I figured I'd ask you. I had a 97' Oldsmobile that initially had a corroded positive battery terminal, I had so many issues with that car electrically, it even shut off while doing 50 mph on a windy road! I ended up replacing the entire positive lead from AC Delco and the problem finally went away. You might want to pull the little panel underneath the passenger dash near where a passenger's feet would rest, there's a lot of wiring under there maybe you can see if something is corroded? Did you leave a window down and water got into the interior? These cars hate when that happens. That's all I can really think of, maybe somebody with more experience can chime in, good luck!
Old 08-07-2012, 11:41 AM
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VortexPoweredZ06
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Thanks for the response. The battery did not have a leak the CCA was just lower then it should have been so it was replaced under warranty. As far as the liquids go I do not believe so I do not see any corrosion but I have not gotten to check out the actually tcs and pcm under the fender yet.
Old 08-07-2012, 12:32 PM
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dadaroo
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Weird, the video was a great idea. I have the factory manuals for 2001. Will look and see if I can add anything. I need to try and at least figure out how/where it measures Low Voltage. That may or not be a Red Herring.
Old 08-07-2012, 12:45 PM
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Thanks! I Figured the video might help. When it does its normal set of events again I will record that as well. It does not always say low voltage, it does not always flash codes, it does not always have problems, it does not always do any of this consistently and that is the aggravating part! Whenever I think O it must have been the battery/loosewire/etc... It comes back 14 hours later to slap my hopes and dreams lol. Thanks for all the replies guys.
Old 08-08-2012, 12:02 PM
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I have another video of what it typically does but honestly it is just the same flickering before the starter is engaged. Then when I try to start the car it starts up despite the flickering and everything is good to go. Tomorrow is my first day off in awhile so I plan on rechecking all the grounds getting to the tcs and pcm checking for wires and corrosion and following the wires off the battery for any possible issues. Any other suggestions?
Old 08-08-2012, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by VortexPoweredZ06
I have another video of what it typically does but honestly it is just the same flickering before the starter is engaged. Then when I try to start the car it starts up despite the flickering and everything is good to go. Tomorrow is my first day off in awhile so I plan on rechecking all the grounds getting to the tcs and pcm checking for wires and corrosion and following the wires off the battery for any possible issues. Any other suggestions?
Be sure to check the connections at the starter.
Old 08-09-2012, 12:12 AM
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So... I was watching the flashing today turned the key back to off and on a bunch of times and noticed sometimes it flickered some times it did not.. so I started it up and was thinking about it grabbed the key and it pulled straight out with the car on... think I will replace the ignition tomorrow and see what happens

Edit: So it looks like the ignition will run alot cheaper not from GM directly so I will have to wait a few days for it. I am reading over Aerovette writeup at http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-cylinder.html but I am now just wondering if I actually need to replace my whole ignition set up, just the cylinder. Both and have it re keyed? Not exactly sure how to go about it at the moment or if that is possibly even my issue but it is a new development...

Last edited by VortexPoweredZ06; 08-09-2012 at 01:45 AM.
Old 08-09-2012, 10:52 AM
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Bill Curlee
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Old 08-10-2012, 12:24 AM
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VortexPoweredZ06
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Hey Bill thanks so much for the PM. I will call you tomorrow I was playing with cars all day and just got it! Thank you sir, I will talk to you soon.
Old 08-10-2012, 12:26 AM
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VortexPoweredZ06
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Thanks Bill! I was out playing with cars all day but I received your PM and I will call you tomorrow at a more decent hour! Thanks for the message and talk to you soon.
Old 09-09-2012, 11:26 PM
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Update: So I had talked with Bill and we suspected a water leak on my computers on the passenger floor board. I cleaned the A/C drain holes and inspected the car at random intervals during rain including a tropical storm and could not find any leaks. The problem seemed to go away for a couple days, then returned, but the problem never got worst so I have been dealing with it and just going to work and have to click it back and forth between off and on to get it to start...

Then today when I went to work the car did NOT want to start. When it finally did I drove it about 1/2 mile and the car flat died and took about 5 minutes to get it to start again so I parked it and took the gf's car to work. After work I ripped into the dash and got the ignition out. I really didn't do anything to it just inspected it and I am not sure if I have a broken wire inside the insulation or the connectors were just loose but every time I go to turn the car on it "boots" right up now (the problem was about 75% of the time as of late). I did not fully assemble the dash I left it pretty much open so I can fiddle with the wires again if the problems arise again but as of now I truly think I got it or at least found the issue.

The key still pulls out of the cylinder no matter what position the key is in though. I pulled the cylinder apart blew it out and lubricated the inside hoping a tumbler was just stuck but didn't seem to be so lucky. I am not exactly sure what the best route would be from here. Reading the forums it seems locksmiths are no help when it comes to these. Hoping to fix it while I have it so easily accessible. If any suggestions please let me know! Otherwise guys thanks as always for the suggestions and the help trying to find this problem!

Edit: Since I do not actually know why this seem to have fixed the issue I am definitely going to clean all the contacts as shown in http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html before I reassemble the dash!

Last edited by VortexPoweredZ06; 09-10-2012 at 12:37 AM.
Old 09-10-2012, 12:49 AM
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Found some info while hunting around and lurking the forums regarding the cylinder (figured I find alot of info off others post so might as well post what seems to help in case someone else reads this later on!) http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-cylinder.html

So unless there is a better option I missed, I am going to order a new cylinder and head on to the locksmith! Clean the contacts and throw her completely back together!

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