Rear sway bar snapped in half.. WTF??
#23
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2003
Location: North Manchester Indiana
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please be aware that when you loosen teh bottom clamp bolts on the sway bars,,,,( rear) you are also loosening and or removing the rear a-arm bolt. When I installed my z-06 bars,, my arm moved quite a bit, I was lucky and there was a mark on teh bushing so I could re-align it without an shop alignment. If I had not had noticed,,it would have meant a tire wear issue or even a ill handingicar.
At least mark the a-arm so you know it didnt move.
it also happened on a buddies car,, so i know it was not a one time deal.
At least mark the a-arm so you know it didnt move.
it also happened on a buddies car,, so i know it was not a one time deal.
#25
Le Mans Master
I've never seen that before, but I've got a set of Z51 bars if you want them
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2026768
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2026768
#26
Advanced
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: Germany, Europe
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#27
Pro
Addco makes solid AND hollow bars. Most folks opt for the solid although they weigh a lot more.
Padrino
#30
Safety Car
I read in another post where some guys wrap the area where the bar sits in the bushing with Teflon Tape. The tape acts as a lube and it might even help with keeping the rust down too
#31
Instructor
Ah, salty winters in the Northeast.... Teflon might help. I wonder if spraying them with a good epoxy or urethane type paint might be even better. That salt wicks into the rubber bushing and stays after the water evaporates.
#32
Melting Slicks
Replaced stock bars with C5Z51 and teflon tape
Got em on parts. Were ever so slightly missing paint at the bushings but no rust. Painted and used teflon tape at the bushings. What a difference. Go with Z51 or Z06 but Z06 might be overkill for a DD.
#33
Drifting
I threw out a set of stock sways when I bought my c5z. It has 52k miles on it. I was going over it getting ready for a track event and saw not just rust but deteriorated material where it sits in the bushings. I replaced with c6 z51 bars from GM parts house and now just clean and relube once a year to prevent rust from forming. you also want to keep them lubed so that they work as intended. they should be able to rotate relatively easily once bolted into the bushings (without end links connected of course)
#37
Burning Brakes
Well, if the car is winter driven all the time you just look at how old the car is. I'm not looking for a recipe, just a guess. I'm a little shocked as I've seen plenty of rustbuckets while growing up and going through college, many of which were driven exclusively in the winter, and never seen a sway bar rust through and break.
#38
Tech Contributor
Well, if the car is winter driven all the time you just look at how old the car is. I'm not looking for a recipe, just a guess. I'm a little shocked as I've seen plenty of rustbuckets while growing up and going through college, many of which were driven exclusively in the winter, and never seen a sway bar rust through and break.
1) Thickness of material(cross sectional area)
2) Type of material
3) Type/thickness of plating
4) How much of the plating is worn through (typically at the sway bar bushing)
5) Amount of salt/water
6) Time
7) Temperature
Can it be quantified...absolutely(I have performed similar salt spray tests). Within the confines of this forum.....no.
#39
Safety Car
I broke a rear sway bar. My guess is that it was due to binding thanks to bushings on the bar. Even with the stock rubber, you may consider shimming the mounts with washers to ensure that the bar rotates relatively freely when the mounts are torqued.
#40
Tech Contributor
If I understand correctly, you are suggesting that you purposely provide more spacing, so the sway bar is not constrained at all?