VGramps

Well, Put me on the cut the hole in the top team. My #2 grandson helped me. About one hour,Oreilly brass part. I got a lifetime warrenty. This is my first vet, 01 coupe, I got it 2 months ago.

jimcork1

My grandson was 1200 miles away and not able to help. Congrats glad it worked.

Bill Curlee

Did you seal up the hole in the cowl that you cut??

BC

VGramps

Yes, Made a cover that can be removed if it s needed.

MikeV

OK, after 41 pages, what is the best "orginal location" sending unit to get?

Mike V

jimcork1

I bought napa brass. The PSI was off by about 5 psi and it failed after 1200 miles of operation. I bought OEM GM part it is dead on the psi and after 2 yrs still going.

rustyguns

I bought the Autozone lifetime one 2 years ago... still working!

fishbust

After 41 pages and likely on page 1, the problem is not the sender, the problem is the high heat location of the sender. That is why people relocate it, done deal.

jimcork1

That wasn't why mine failed. The wiring harness was very short putting a slight pressure/tension on the plastic top. This basically caused the 1st one to fail. The second actually broke the plastic top out. I cut the harness and did an F15 aircraft splice with stress relief loop of wire. No tension and no more failures.

I suspect others failed for the tension issue also. Heat is in my view a contributor but was not the basic cause of my failure.

fishbust

99 out of a hundred. You got the 1.

gary-

Thankx to all the helpful info on how to replace the sending unit, I just replaced mine with a brass one from O'reilys ($41 lifetime warranty). I bought the socket at AutoZone ($10). I cut a hole in the cowl. Vert has 71,842 miles. The old one was brass (very tarnished) and had oil on the electrical connection, but hadn't started dripping. I bought the Vert in Sept. 2012 and it had 80# then (so it was bad when I bought the Vert).

SugarDemon

Ditto on what Gary said. This thread made the job easy. I too bought the brass unit from O'Reillys. It is slightly taller than the brass one that it replaced. Used the hole cutting method, also. Also took the opportunity to clean out the three rubber bladders on the drivers side.

I think this unit is more accurate than my old one. The old one idled at 30psi but never got above 45psi, regardless of WOT or whatever. This one idles at 35psi (oil warmed) and increases linearly as the rpms increase. 65psi at highway speed. We'll see how long it lasts!

RedZMonte

I did not read threw all the posts only 1st couple pages, so it may ahve been brought up later in the post... it mentioned that the sending unit is one for a 00-05 bonneville.. Lol the bonneville guys have a "common issues post" and one of them is the oil pressure sending unit failing, causing a 120psi or 0psi reading on the dash caused by bad oil sending unit.. got a chuckle when i read that it was being put on in this case.

On a good note, i replaced my bonneville sender and has been fine sence.

S

UncleFodder

Nothing more fun than updating an old, ongoing thread! So about a year ago, my oil pressure pegged to max. I immediately knew from past reading of the forum that my oil pressure sender was kaput.

Even so, I didn't sweat it too much as I'd never seen a pressure issue. However, about 6 months ago I began seeing a few drops of oil on the garage floor even with the back of the engine. It was also blowing back when driving and covering the cats, making a big stink. To be honest, I didn't put two and two together until I reread some of the older threads that also detailed how the failed sender can also leak.

Took a look and sure enough, the area was oily. I was really on the fence about which way I would go with the replacement - pull the intake (which I have never done) or cut a hole above. I was leaning toward the manifold pull, but I changed my mind...here's why - my vert is a DD and has just over 100k miles on it. I was concerned that pulling the intake was going to have a domino effect and cause additional issues (gaskets, vacuum hoses etc.). So a repair that allowed the intake remaining in place was appealing. Nothing worse than breaking additional things during a fix for something else!

So, here's a few additional thoughts from my 'cut a hole' process - first, when cutting the hole, bigger is definitely better. For having sight and tool access, this is a must. I ended up making two cuts to enlarge the hole. Also in my case on my '02, the PCV hose was a real blocker. I disconnnected the PCV from the rear of the driver side valve cover, but that gave just minimal wiggle room.

To lift the bottom of the retaining clip to remove the sensor wire, I never could get the wire hanger to grab just right. I ended up going at an angle with a flat head screw driver to push the clip away at the bottom, as I used a long nosed vice-grip to pull it off. For the sender, I had to go to Autozone to get a special-purpose 1 1/16" long thin walled socket for $10. The larger hold cut helps here too to get the socket down straight on the sensor. Also, I wrapped the socket to the extension with electrical take to ensure the sides of the hole wouldn't catch the socket and pull it off.

To put the new sensor in, I used a single strip of electrical take to hold the new sensor in the socket. I then lowered the new sender straight down and it began threading no problem. Torqued to 15 ft/lbs. Another hint here - before you torque it down, notice which way the sensor wire points naturally. If you can line up the with the clip on the wire, it will make reattaching the wire alot easier.

Finally, nothing better than hearing the clip click into place! Fire up the car and check for any leaks.

The Big Guy

To Cruismon & White90conv. As far as leaking and loss of the OPS, my understanding is that it is caused by high rpm with out sufficient oil warm-up. Second reason was over fill of the oil pan. White90conv you can get oil pressure at the oil filter base. There was a company that supplied a complete kit to relocate the oil pick -up at the oil filter base. Total Performance Engineering, in Las Vegas offered a complete refit kit to relocate the OPS at the oil filter base. It cost $189.00. Fortunately I have a unit on hand just in case it is needed. When needed you removed the intake, plugged the opening and replaced the sensor at the oil filter location. The supplied aluminum block has 2 threaded openings for the oil temp sensor and the oil pressure sensor. Neat as you can imagine. All the necessary parts were included such as wiring for the relocation,plug for the old location and complete directions. Needless to say it is neat and extra easy to replace when necessary. Unfortunately I believe they are no longer in business.

SG Lou

My 03 LS1 equipped Silverado's Oil Pressure Sw kicked the bucket. You guys think getting it out of a C5 is tough ? Here I thought, It's a truck, LOTS OF ROOM ! YEAH RIGHT I do not have the luxury of drilling an access hole and it's almost impossible to try and do it with the manifold on. Dreading the thought but sooner or later I'm gonna have to pull the manifold to replace it. Knock on wood the 04's is still in good shape and working. ( Now watch, I said this and that too will crap out ! )

IRON MAIDEN

So here we are in 2014. What is the current relocation method? Skimming through this thread I saw a few braided line setups that looked nice but not for a couple hundred!
Although if there is a parts list to order the fittings and lines....
Will have my intake off soon so want to do it now. Anyone?

madmatt9471

Ecklers has them for our Vettes:
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1997-2004.html

Make your own:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-for-50-a.html

Thanks,Matt

IRON MAIDEN

madmatt9471

Now that is awesome!

Thank you for taking the time to make the list and post it!

Thanks,Matt