had some problems with the car today, can someone help me out
06-02-2008, 11:15 PM
#1
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had some problems with the car today, can someone help me out
i just got off the highway and was coming to a stop light and all of a sudden the car died out. i tried to restart the car and it turned over but would not fire then all the dash lights cam on, i tried to re start it, it started, gave it some gas and it died out. so i sat there in the middle of the road for a couple seconds tried to restart it, fired and i go to take off and the car has ZERO power and is surging really bad, i get it into a parking lot pop the hood and look for anything that might have come un done or loose, nothing. so i take it back home easy, the car was running great and normal on the way back. got in and pulled the codes heres what i got-(i looked them up but have no idea what they mean)
p1626h
b2578h
b2583h
b2721h
u1096h
u1301h
u1255h
u1176h
u1064h
u1016h
u1069h
thanks
p1626h
b2578h
b2583h
b2721h
u1096h
u1301h
u1255h
u1176h
u1064h
u1016h
u1069h
thanks
06-03-2008, 01:05 PM
#2
Heel & Toe
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Hey Big Red,
check this out.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=code+list
clear the codes first, then rerun the car and see if the coeds come back some of the codes that you listed my not be the same problem.
Good Luck Jorge
check this out.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=code+list
clear the codes first, then rerun the car and see if the coeds come back some of the codes that you listed my not be the same problem.
Good Luck Jorge
06-03-2008, 01:11 PM
#3
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06-03-2008, 06:18 PM
#5
Instructor
Those "U" codes are a loss of communication between modules in the car. With that many, I would wonder about the "star connectors" under the passenger kickboard. More than that, though, this reminds me of a problem I recently had with a bad (missing) ground bolt.
Did you get any messages like "low oil level"? Will your car run if you hold the key to "Start"? Does your fuel pump turn on when the key goes to "run"? I had those symptoms everytime I had my problem and it turned out that the bolt at G105 was missing. It's the one under the driver's side of the block, not to be confused with the grounding strap on the side and beside of the engine.
With any problem like this, the general protocol is to check/clean all ground connections, etc. Here is a thread with my story and some helpful diagrams & links:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2001950
Did you get any messages like "low oil level"? Will your car run if you hold the key to "Start"? Does your fuel pump turn on when the key goes to "run"? I had those symptoms everytime I had my problem and it turned out that the bolt at G105 was missing. It's the one under the driver's side of the block, not to be confused with the grounding strap on the side and beside of the engine.
With any problem like this, the general protocol is to check/clean all ground connections, etc. Here is a thread with my story and some helpful diagrams & links:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2001950
Last edited by saw22; 06-03-2008 at 06:20 PM.
06-03-2008, 10:16 PM
#6
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Those "U" codes are a loss of communication between modules in the car. With that many, I would wonder about the "star connectors" under the passenger kickboard. More than that, though, this reminds me of a problem I recently had with a bad (missing) ground bolt.
Did you get any messages like "low oil level"? Will your car run if you hold the key to "Start"? Does your fuel pump turn on when the key goes to "run"? I had those symptoms everytime I had my problem and it turned out that the bolt at G105 was missing. It's the one under the driver's side of the block, not to be confused with the grounding strap on the side and beside of the engine.
With any problem like this, the general protocol is to check/clean all ground connections, etc. Here is a thread with my story and some helpful diagrams & links:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2001950
Did you get any messages like "low oil level"? Will your car run if you hold the key to "Start"? Does your fuel pump turn on when the key goes to "run"? I had those symptoms everytime I had my problem and it turned out that the bolt at G105 was missing. It's the one under the driver's side of the block, not to be confused with the grounding strap on the side and beside of the engine.
With any problem like this, the general protocol is to check/clean all ground connections, etc. Here is a thread with my story and some helpful diagrams & links:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2001950
the car ran fine on the way back but i havent had a chance to take it out after that. never got low oil level, fuel pump turns on every time because i listen for it before i start the car.
thanks for the link
06-04-2008, 07:09 AM
#7
Instructor
The "star connectors" are splice packs under the passenger kick panel. Though I haven't had the problem (knock.. knock), I think a lot of "U" codes could be from the wires being loose or wet there.
If it does happen again, pay attention to these two things especially:
1. Can you get the car to stay running by holding the key to START? The fuel pump runs of a different circuit in the START position. If you do this, the car might run but it will throw codes and the gauges will be zeroed out. At least it could get you home. It will NOT continue to crank and burn up the starter, don't worry.
2. Does the fuel pump prime in the RUN position?
There are a lot of things that can go wrong to cause problems like this but #1 = YES and #2 = NO would most likely point you in the same direction where I was.
FYI, I had my problem for one day, then not for one week, then for one week, then not for 5 whole months! And then it finally wouldn't go away, I assume when my ground bolt fell out completely.
Other things to consider are all your grounds, as mentioned before, and your ignition switch. In the thread where I linked you, there is a link to what grounds to what. Say you get a bunch of random PCM codes, for example, maybe G106 is loose. In my case, G105 had my trouble areas grounded to it.
Your codes point to turn signal shorts, which go to G104, under your battery tray. Also maybe your negative battery cable is loose? You need to torque the hell out of that thing, until it dents your hand with a standard size (probably 8mm) wrench.
Other codes have to do with the anti-theft system. Which could point to your key simply being dirty and the car not reading the proper amount of resistance in the key chip. I think this will allow your car to go 2 mph and then stall out.
Just a few specific things to think about.... Good luck!
If it does happen again, pay attention to these two things especially:
1. Can you get the car to stay running by holding the key to START? The fuel pump runs of a different circuit in the START position. If you do this, the car might run but it will throw codes and the gauges will be zeroed out. At least it could get you home. It will NOT continue to crank and burn up the starter, don't worry.
2. Does the fuel pump prime in the RUN position?
There are a lot of things that can go wrong to cause problems like this but #1 = YES and #2 = NO would most likely point you in the same direction where I was.
FYI, I had my problem for one day, then not for one week, then for one week, then not for 5 whole months! And then it finally wouldn't go away, I assume when my ground bolt fell out completely.
Other things to consider are all your grounds, as mentioned before, and your ignition switch. In the thread where I linked you, there is a link to what grounds to what. Say you get a bunch of random PCM codes, for example, maybe G106 is loose. In my case, G105 had my trouble areas grounded to it.
Your codes point to turn signal shorts, which go to G104, under your battery tray. Also maybe your negative battery cable is loose? You need to torque the hell out of that thing, until it dents your hand with a standard size (probably 8mm) wrench.
Other codes have to do with the anti-theft system. Which could point to your key simply being dirty and the car not reading the proper amount of resistance in the key chip. I think this will allow your car to go 2 mph and then stall out.
Just a few specific things to think about.... Good luck!
06-04-2008, 01:47 PM
#8
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Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: lockport IL
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The "star connectors" are splice packs under the passenger kick panel. Though I haven't had the problem (knock.. knock), I think a lot of "U" codes could be from the wires being loose or wet there.
If it does happen again, pay attention to these two things especially:
1. Can you get the car to stay running by holding the key to START? The fuel pump runs of a different circuit in the START position. If you do this, the car might run but it will throw codes and the gauges will be zeroed out. At least it could get you home. It will NOT continue to crank and burn up the starter, don't worry.
2. Does the fuel pump prime in the RUN position?
There are a lot of things that can go wrong to cause problems like this but #1 = YES and #2 = NO would most likely point you in the same direction where I was.
FYI, I had my problem for one day, then not for one week, then for one week, then not for 5 whole months! And then it finally wouldn't go away, I assume when my ground bolt fell out completely.
Other things to consider are all your grounds, as mentioned before, and your ignition switch. In the thread where I linked you, there is a link to what grounds to what. Say you get a bunch of random PCM codes, for example, maybe G106 is loose. In my case, G105 had my trouble areas grounded to it.
Your codes point to turn signal shorts, which go to G104, under your battery tray. Also maybe your negative battery cable is loose? You need to torque the hell out of that thing, until it dents your hand with a standard size (probably 8mm) wrench.
Other codes have to do with the anti-theft system. Which could point to your key simply being dirty and the car not reading the proper amount of resistance in the key chip. I think this will allow your car to go 2 mph and then stall out.
Just a few specific things to think about.... Good luck!
If it does happen again, pay attention to these two things especially:
1. Can you get the car to stay running by holding the key to START? The fuel pump runs of a different circuit in the START position. If you do this, the car might run but it will throw codes and the gauges will be zeroed out. At least it could get you home. It will NOT continue to crank and burn up the starter, don't worry.
2. Does the fuel pump prime in the RUN position?
There are a lot of things that can go wrong to cause problems like this but #1 = YES and #2 = NO would most likely point you in the same direction where I was.
FYI, I had my problem for one day, then not for one week, then for one week, then not for 5 whole months! And then it finally wouldn't go away, I assume when my ground bolt fell out completely.
Other things to consider are all your grounds, as mentioned before, and your ignition switch. In the thread where I linked you, there is a link to what grounds to what. Say you get a bunch of random PCM codes, for example, maybe G106 is loose. In my case, G105 had my trouble areas grounded to it.
Your codes point to turn signal shorts, which go to G104, under your battery tray. Also maybe your negative battery cable is loose? You need to torque the hell out of that thing, until it dents your hand with a standard size (probably 8mm) wrench.
Other codes have to do with the anti-theft system. Which could point to your key simply being dirty and the car not reading the proper amount of resistance in the key chip. I think this will allow your car to go 2 mph and then stall out.
Just a few specific things to think about.... Good luck!
thanks again
06-04-2008, 02:04 PM
#9
Instructor
Might wanna check the grounds just for peace of mind. You never know where you might get stuck! Chances are, if it happened before, it will happen again. Might be tomorrow, might be next year.
You can access the grounds under the hood and clean them easily in less than an hour. The fuel pump grounds behind the back driver's wheel and is also easy to get to. The one under the block (G105) takes having the car in the air, though.
The smallest electrical issue can cause our cars to raise pure hell, believe me!
You can access the grounds under the hood and clean them easily in less than an hour. The fuel pump grounds behind the back driver's wheel and is also easy to get to. The one under the block (G105) takes having the car in the air, though.
The smallest electrical issue can cause our cars to raise pure hell, believe me!