blownrunner

Has anyone tried painting the cam covers while still being installed on the engine? I am concerned about removing all the bolts and having problems later on due to not applying new sealant to the heads.

Can the master cylinder be unbolted and moved out of the way without disconnecting the brake lines? My 91 has two braided brake lines coming from it instead of rigid lines.

Thanks.

LoTu5

Don't be too put off from removing the covers. You can get some nice stainless bolts to add to it. The sealant can be purchased through Jerry's Gaskets.

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...roducts_id=565

http://www.dragtimes.com/parts/CORVE...528616871.html

Dynomite

Post 67 - Removing Cam Cover and Camshaft Timing Inspection
Post 68 - Eliminating TB Coolant and Air Induction, Added Oil Catch Can and Painting

Polo-1

LPE LT5 paint. I did not remove cam cover bolts. I sprayed in place then touch up with flat black and model paint brushes.

94 after 4 years of LPE


90 with 179 miles use as a blem remover (spots)

Rkreigh

awesome job. I'd like to do this too. it's a hassle pulling the cam covers off, but there is obviously alot of prep work getting a high quality refinish

I'm amazed at how nice your car looks doing it "in the car"

what did you deinstall (brake booster is really tough)

thanks!

lgaff

There is a company that makes caliper paint; "G2" its good to 900 degrees and is self leveling(brush on). The calipers I have seen look great and they also make engine paint and have the ability to make custom colors.

http://www.g2usa.com/product/G45.html

Dynomite

Removing Torx 40 bolts Not so easy......but then turned out very easy.
1. Cam Covers were removed by first removing Bolts from C-Frame, Loosening Engine Mount Bolts and then dropping Transmission a bit so cam covers could clear Brake Booster (two Torx-40 bolts near brake booster were removed with cam cover). On the Passenger side the Temperature sensor for Evaporator was removed easily and set aside (plenty room to then remove cam cover bolts and then cam cover on passenger side). The Transmission was lowered to remove the Cam Coover Torx-40s on passenger side and then raised to remove Cam Cover on Passenger side so Cam Cover could clear Fire Wall bolts.

2. Now the Hard Part......as can be seen five Torx-40 Cam Cover Bolts failed in the Torx receiver on the bolt head even though considerable downward pressure was applied to the Torx-40 socket/wrench. Several types of Torx 40s wrenches had to be used because of the clearance. Considerably more torque than the 19 ft-lbs for Torx-40 Cam Cover bolt installation was applied trying to remove them (a cheater on a 1/2 inch socket wrench)

3. Now the Easy Part........What to do.....Drill, Heat....Torch...

a. I tried drilling and ruined three drill bits.
b. I did not want to try heat (A little heat works great on Injector Housing for removal of Coolant Manifold Bolts) as there is no way to get heat where it is needed.
c. Chisel...........well wouldn't you know it.....Using a chisel to first notch one side of the Torx-40 bolt to gain a purch and then pounding that side counter clockwise with the chisels about 10 times without touching the Aluminum Cam Cover surface popped the bolt loose (all five). I would never have guessed it but ran out of options.

Cam Covers Removed Engine In Car...............................Note the chisel marks on the Torx-40 bolt heads


Cam Covers back on (The easy way with SS Allen Head Bolts) and Belt tensioner installed with belt
and New Belt Tensioner Pulley

4. Painting Cam Covers ........................................ .............and Plenum.

LoTu5

Very impressed with the results. Both on and off the cars.

Polo-1

My first one was the 92 Polo Z. It had a vacuum leak under the plenum. I bought the car and it came with an old can of the LPE. I’m not much of a painter for sure, but thought I would give it a go. With the plenum and injector housing off, did a basic clean and prep. I masked the whole car with visqueen and blue painters tape. I also used rags in some spots. I pulled the hose’s and wire as far as I could wrapped them and tied off to other areas. Only removed the plenum and injector housings, the a/c was still in place. With a little practice with the spray pattern from the can ( it has a ton of clear in it) I got the feel of it. Two coats maybe 3 is about the most I used. More than that and it will change the base color tint, off hue color. After a night of dry time, I got in there with small model brushes to paint the bolt heads flat black. This was the hardest part. Just takes the longest time, LOTS of cam cover bolts… I put over 10k on the 92 car as a driver. It still looked like new when I rolled. From that Z on to the 94 AB and then the 90 Red Z. I had the 402 powder coated in red. Coating is really nice, but I like the original color and texture of the LT5.
It really was not that bad to do.