Dynomite

Typical Low Mileage ZR-1 Restoration (Audio, Windshield, Injectors, Starter, Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder).

1. Audio.
BOSE Speaker Amp Options for 1990 and 1991 ZR-1

See Bose Speaker Amp Options TIPS

I picked up some more 975 Amps from 95 Nissan Maxima and some 075 Amps from Infinities I think or newer Nissan Maxima.

I just disconnect this connector (shown in photo) and plug and Play New (used) Amps into the ZR-1....they ALL sound great (I have 975 Front and 975 Rear). WOW....what great sound in all four speakers....speaker Fade, Base, Treble works perfectly and volume will drive you out of the Z as you like. Had to re-install the CDM as someone removed it thinking that was the lack of sound issue and they just stuck it back held in place by the right lower knee bolster.

2. First was to Replace the Delaminated Windshield (after checking compression).

This 38K mile ZR-1 Compression test showed 230 lbs on ALL 8 cylinders.
One Major problem was a highly Delaminated Windshield which was NOT a Typical requirement of a Restoration.
Safelite Just installed a Windshield and Weather stripping in a 1990 ZR-1 for $150. I furnished the Windshield and Weather Stripping

This is number 72 one of the first 1990s built.
I also have the last 1990 ZR-1 sold to public (#3032) and it has no windshield issues.

This is BEFORE and AFTER photos

Safelite did a Perfect Job

I got the Tinted Windshield and Weather Stripping from ZZZZZR1/LT5corsa (Dave) and have to say the Tinted Windshield is perfect in every way as is the Weather Stripping. Safelite was pleasantly surprised how good this Windshield Installation ended ....and they have done other Windshield Installations on Corvettes with Windshields and Weather Stripping they have provided themselves (This was the best they had seen).




3. Fluids and Injectors.

ALL Fluids changed out (AMSOIL 10W-40, Castrol 10W-60, Mobile 1 75W-90, DOT 4)......and Differential Case Drain Installed.
See Item #4 LT5 Added Systems

The Standard Dynomite Top End Restoration.......
a. New Gaskets (Inj Housing, Plenum, Crank Case Vent).
b. TB Coolant blocked.
c. New SL4-205 RC Injectors (Check Resistance of Injectors first - 12 Ohms and even among Injectors more or less).
d. New Coolant Hoses with rounded edge clamps.
e. Pressure wash (hot water) under Plenum and total engine pressure wash (with everything under Plenum removed and valley drain cleaned).
f. Starter Solenoid restored and Alternator polished (not painted).
g. A Billet Aluminum Belt Tensioner Pulley was added.
h. Checked all Oil Pan bolts and Water Pump bolts for tightness (One bolt at a time).

Before Alternator/Starter Removal (Note Injector Housing Coolant Blocked to TB - Red Allen Head Plug)



After Alternator/Starter Removal (One Hour Later....took extra time to pressure wash Engine with Hot Water and to recondition the Starter Solenoid). See Starter, Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, Battery, and Plugs Tricks






4. Clutch Slave Cylinder Issues.

The Clutch Pedal was SOFT indicating low Clutch Fluid and it was difficult to shift the ZF 6-40 Transmission into various gears including reverse.

Typically the Clutch Fluid Reservoir Fluid Level is not maintaned on low mileage ZR-1s simply because the Clutch Fluid Reservoir cannot be found. The Clutch Fluid Reservoir is located under the ECM (disconnect the two 10mm nuts and swing the ECM upside down to locate the Clutch Fluid Reservoir. Clean the Reservoir of old Brake Fluid and fill full indication with DOT 4 Brake Fluid. Pump the Clutch Pedal many times slowly self bleading the air from the Clutch lines. The Clutch Pedal will become a bit harder to push from the initial depression all the way down indicating the Clutch is being fully released. This will allow easy shifting of the ZF 6 -40 Transmission in all gears including reverse.

Just in case it is a leaking Slave Cylinder (as in the case for this low mileage 90') or Leaking Master Cylinder, you will have to install a new Clutch Master and New Clutch Slave Cylinder. The New Slave Cylinder has a much better bleeding system wherein the original Save Cylinder was almost impossible to bleed. I installed a New Clutch Master Cylinder and New Clutch Slave Cylinder from Jerry's Gaskets and Clutch functions perfectly.

5. Fired it up (March 13).....WOW....runs so smooth in all gears
The TB Coolant Elimination at the Injector Housing is hidden and cannot be seen from an external inspection (the return line to the Coolant Overflow tank in front of Passenger Side was blocked internally with a soldered nipple)




The 10 minute Plenum Removal has been confirmed (once coolant is drained as in this case without TB coolant blocked at the start) The 10 Minute Plenum Removal TIPS

6. New Tools These from Harbour Freight......

a. 1/4 inch drive Torx #40 hardened steel for Plenum and Cam Cover Bolts (just long enough to reach between those two tight runners on the Plenum).

b. 14 inch long combination 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch drive Flex Head Socket wrench strong enough (even using the 1/4 inch end) to remove the hardest to remove Torx Cam Cover Bolts. The 14 inch leverage eliminates the need for a cheater bar on the typical socket wrench.



Notes:

1. If I had the gaskets in hand and new coolant hoses.....this complete restoration I would expect to take maybe a day with the wrenches. It is almost a must to have a high pressure washer connected directly to HOT water. The Transmission, Under the engine, front of engine, front suspension.....and particularly around the Oil Filter Adapter and below the Dipstick seem to be places where the most oil has been spilled over the years. Also have on hand a can of engine degreaser. Spray with degreaser and let it sit for a few minutes before hitting it with Hot High Pressure water.

2. On this LT5 it will appear TB coolant is intact as I plugged the rubber hose (going to Coolant Surge Tank) at the connection to Plenum and inserted 1/8 inch Allen Pipe Plug in Injector Housing. Also will retain original #40 Torx Plenum and Cam Cover Bolts. Carter Bling in Engine Compartment will be added. Original LT5 Color will be retained.....making this engine appear TOTAL STOCK.

Last UPDATE of post 61 Aug, 2019

Dynomite

1990 (#2067) LT5 Top End Rebuild (Including Wilwood Front Brakes)

Summary of 1990 Reconditioning/Modifications (#2067)

Everything removed/restored/replaced on Top End (Plenum, Secondary Vacuum system, HVAC Vacuum, Plugs, Coils, Starter, Crank Case Vent Cover, Alternator, AC Compressor (not disconnected).

1. Degreased and cleaned Valley and entire engine including Valley Drain.
(Pressure washed BEFORE removing Original Injectors).
2. TB Coolant Eliminated.
3. Elite Oil Catch Can Added (with SS Hydraulic Hose).
4. SS Oil Cooler Hoses Added.
5. Air Induction Eliminated.
6. New Modified Fuel Pressure Regulator (May 2019).
7. Plenum and Cam Covers Painted and Detailed.
8. SS Allen Head Bolts Added.
9. New Coils.
10. New Water Pump.
11. Reconditioned Starter.
12 New Secondary Control Rod and Bushings From Jerry's Gaskets.
13. New Gaskets (Jerry's Gaskets).
14 Full compliment of Carter Bling Added.
15. New Charcoal Canister.
16. New Coolant Hoses from Marc Haibeck.
17. C4-Beam Plates Added (ZFDoc).
18. Differential Drain Plug Added.
19. Alumuninum Water pump and Aluminum Power Steering Pulleys Added (Randy Woods).
20. New Altrenator Pulley Added.
21. New LT5 Spark Plug Wires.
22. New Secondary Canisters installed correctly.
23. Compression Checks ALL Cylinders (210-215 psi).
24. Radiator Debree Screen Added.
25. Wilwood Promatrix Rotors and C5 Z06 Calipers.
26. Drivers Side Electronics for Fans, Lights etc., moved Under Drivers Side Upper A-Arm.
27. Starter Relay Added and positioned under ECM Connectors.
28. New PCV Dual Connector from Jerry's Gaskets.
29. Stock Radiator Hose Clamps replaced with SS Worm Gear Hose Clamps (with insert).
30. New Cam Cover PCV FIlters from Marc Haibeck.
31. New 180 deg Thermostat from Marc Haibeck.
32. Checked and verified correct engine timing.
33. SS Air Intake Added (George Braml).
34. New NGK Iridium BKR5EIX Spark Plugs.
35. All Injectors Ohmed (12.4 Ohms) and Cleaned with New "O" Rings
36. Cleaned Ground of both SIR Sensors.
37. SW Headers ZR1CORVOR and SW Exhaust ZR1CHAMSW.
38. New Secondary Vacuum System and Linkage (Complete)

1990 #2067 came with a new Aluminum Radiator.
Photos and descriptions of Specific Rebuild Tricks for a 1990 LT5 engine starting with removal of the Plenum are provided. The engine was cleaned in total and Plenum/Cam Covers/Injector Housing Painted (see item #5 below). This section will contain mostly photos of the Rebuild process with specifics on bolt torque, Loctite and Sealants. Specific Rebuild Techniques are highlighted with photos. This section is continually upgraded with the best methods described for each of the Post Heading Topics (Post #62 - Post #69).

The Set Up involves lifting the ZR1 off the floor about 18 inches. A hydraulic floor jack is then placed under the Transmission and the C-Frame bolts removed and C-Frame set to the side but not removed (Engine Mouning Bolts are also loosened). With this Set Up, the engine can be tilted as required for removal of Cam Cover Bolts and Cam Covers.



This Set Up also makes it easy to remove the Stock Exhaust installing SW Headers and Offroad SW Exhaust.

1. Specific Modifications.

1990 LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS
Post 62 - 1990 LT5 Rebuild Tricks (Including Wilwood Front Brakes)
Post 63 - Removing Plenum
Post 64 - Removing Crankcase Ventilation Cover and General Inspection/Cleaning Valley
Post 65 - INFL REST grounds and Alternator Connector Boot
Post 66 - Inspection, Testing and Reconditioning the Secondaries
Post 67 - Removing Cam Cover and Camshaft Timing Inspection
Post 68 - Eliminating TB Coolant Flow and Air Induction Tricks
Post 69 - Installing Headers Engine In Car

2. Changed ALL Fluids and Installed Differential Drain Plug.

See LT5/ZR-1 Fluids

3. Checked Compression.
Did a Compression check......210-215 psi on all 8 cylinders.
Easy to remove even the Number 8 Spark Plug using one of these Blackhawk 5/8 Spark Plug Swivel Socket 3/8" Drive.




4. Making Sure We Have Engough Stopping Power.

ZR-1 Wilwood Rotors and C4 to C5 Conversion

See ZR-1 (90' and 91') Wilwood Rotors and C4 to C5-Z06 Conversion

I used adapters (Corvette C4 to C5-Z06 conversion brackets, late spindle) C4 to C5-Z06 Conversion Adapters (Ebay)
I had to move wheel weights as there is only 1/8 inch clearance between inside of wheel hub and C5 Z06 calipers.

1. Wilwood Rotors Extreme Performance - 13 inch #160-7744-BK
2. Wilwood Hats with .250 inch offset 5x4.75 bolt pattern, 12x7.00 Hats to Rotor, Hat #170-7746

The wheel sensor cable bracket was twisted just a bit. This assures clearance between the wheel sensor cable and the SS brake line at maximum steering angles.

Used Red Loctite 262 on all adapter bolts.

5. Now ready for Top End Reconditioning.

a. First Added Starter Bypass Relay.

Starter, Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, Battery, and Plugs Tricks

Last UPDATE of post 62 July, 2020

Dynomite

Removing Plenum including the 10 minute Plenum Removal (91')
The 91' LT5 had been modified for Quick Plenum Removal before hand (TB coolant elimination, Oil Catch Can and SS Allen Head Plenum bolts).

1. For this Plenum Removal (1990 LT5) the coolant had to be drained (I completely drained coolant to replace thermostat (Stant Thermostats) and replace ALL coolant hoses). The TB Coolant was eliminated during this 1990 Top End Restoration so Coolant does not have to be drained at all next Plenum Removal. See Item #4 LT5 Eliminated Systems

90' LT5 Before Modifications for Quick Plenum Removal


2. The 10 Minute Plenum Removal (1991 LT5 after Eliminated TB Coolant, Installation of Oil Catch Can and Installation of SS Allen Head Bolts).

TB Coolant Elimination is Item #4 LT5 Eliminated Systems

A. Tools for Plenum Removal.

Two Allen Head wrenches (6mm and 3mm),
Two flat head Screw drivers and ...................................1/4 inch socket wrench with 1/4 inch socket
TB bracket wrenches (7mm and 9mm)..........................and short extension for DIS Connector


B. Plenum Removal Steps (assuming you have TB Coolant Blocked). If not.....remove some coolant before you start.
1. Disconnect Battery (Check Battery Condition and Jumper GOOD Battery as FIRST CHECK).
2. Remove Samco (or stock) Air Duct (large flat screw driver).
3. Remove Oil Catch Can Hose (If Oil Catch Can Installed) to Plenum and PCV Dual Connector on back of Plenum (small flat screw driver).
4. Remove Throttle Body Cables (two including TB Shield and two top (I have 3mm SS Allen Head) screws on Plenum) and TB Connector (7mm and 9mm wrenches).
5. Remove Fuel Regulator Vacuum Hose "L" rear of Plenum.
6. Disconnect MAP Vacuum hose from MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) and from rear of Plenum.......
(in case it gets intangled with other wires/hoses as MAP is not disconnected from Plenum).
7. Disconnect Passenger Side Plenum Vacuum (and Drivers side Plenum Vacuum if secondaries not removed).
8. Disconnect Brake Boost Vacuum line Drivers Side Rear of Plenum.
9. Remove three 6mm Allen Head SS Fuel Line Bolts and two fuel lines (6mm Allen Ball Head Socket) or Torx-40 stock bolts.
10. Open gas cap to prevent fuel lines from leaking when removed from fuel rail.
11. Remove 12 Allen Head SS Plenum Bolts (6mm Allen Ball Head Socket with Extension) or Torx-40 stock bolts.
12. Lift Plenum from Gasket (front only) and remove two Cam Cover PCV Vent Rubber Connectors to Air Horn.
13. Disconnect two DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) Connectors front of DIS.
14a. Disconnect large Purge Vacuum line under front of Plenum (91').
14b. Disconnect small vacuum line under front of Plenum and larger vacuum line from drivers side of Plenum going to Charcoal Canister under left head light (90').
15. Disconnect two small electrical connectors rear under Plenum (MAP and DIS).
16. Unscrew 1/4 bolt in Main DIS Connector rear of Plenum.
17. Remove Plenum.

C. Starter Removal.
18. Remove Coil Pack Connector and 4 bolts (two pairs 8mm hex heads 6mm bolts front, 10mm hex heads 8mm bolts rear).
19. Remove Coil Packs with plug wires attached (remove all 8 plug wires from Cam Covers).
20. Check starter with hot wire but then disconnect Starter Solenoid connector.
21. Disconnect main HOT wire from Battery to Starter.
22. Remove two starter mounting bolts (13mm Hex Head 10mm bolts) and lift starter out of Valley.



D. New Tools These from Harbour Freight......

a. 1/4 inch drive Torx #40 hardened steel for Plenum and Cam Cover Bolts (just long enough to reach between those two tight runners on the Plenum).

b. 14 inch long combination 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch drive Flex Head Socket wrench strong enough (even using the 1/4 inch end) to remove the hardest to remove Torx Cam Cover Bolts. The 14 inch leverage eliminates the need for a cheater bar on the typical socket wrench.

Last UPDATE of post 63 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Inspection, Testing and Reconditioning the Valley, Starter, and Coils



1. Starter Solenoid Contacts.

I had a NO START condition on a 90' and after I towed it for a start....got home and it fired right up. I would have liked to hot wire the starter (purple wire) when that happens to see if it is the starter or starter ground circuit. Or check that purple wire for 12+ volts when I turn the switch to start. I lean toward ground circuit or sticky starter solenoid. Another indication would be if when you turn the ignition key to start do the lights dim for example indicating a current draw to the starter solenoid/starter.

If the solenoid does not move (no clicking indicating the Starter Solenoid did not move) as in my case then a sticky Solenoid or Solenoid Ground Connection. If the Solenoid clicked/moved...then bad Solenoid contacts or bad connection Battery cable (Positive) to starter/battery or bad ground (Negative) engine to battery.

Installed a relay in the start circuit of the 90' identical to what I have on the 91'. This is one of those intermittent issues and does sound like poor electrical connections in either the Starter Negative Connections or Starter Positive Connections.
Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, Battery, and Plugs Tricks

The Starter Solenoid is shown in the left photo with slight burnt contacts in right photo.


The Solenoid contacts in left photo were wire brushed clean in right photo.


Complete Starter Disassembly.
Photo provided by others.



Last UPDATE of post 64 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

1. Reconditioning ALL Electrical Connections including Engine and Chassis Ground Connections. Also including Alternator Connection Boot.

Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, Battery, and Plugs Tricks
Electrical Ground Connections and Clutch Start Switch Linkage



2. SIR Sensors (INFL REST) Ground Reconditioned.

Only applies to 1990 ZR-1s (see below)



Both Right and Left Air Bag impact sensors were regrounded.
(The bolt sizes cited are the wrench sizes to remove the bolt)

a. For the Drivers side, the side panel was removed (top bolt and bottom bolt loosened and three Torx bolts removed from fender well).
The bottom bolt was loosened by sliding an open end 10mm wrench in the slot provided.
b. The battery was disconnected (plus and minus) and hold down clamp removed.
c. The battery platform was removed (two 10 mm bolts on top and two 10 mm bolts on bottom front side).
d. The Impact Sensor was removed (one 10 mm bolt and one 13 mm bolt) in additon to the battery ground cable and engine ground cable.
e. The two bolt holes of the sensor and grounds bolt holes were sanded clean and the bottom of the impact sensor was polished with steel wool.
f. The Impact Sensor was then replaced and the area spray painted black Rustoleum to seal and prevent corrosion of the polished areas.
g. The various components were then assembled in reverse order.

h. For the Passenger Side, the side panel was removed (top bolt and bottom bolt loosened and three Torx bolts removed from fender well).
The bottom bolt was loosened by sliding an open end 10mm wrench in the slot provided.
i. The rear wheel well cover was removed (four 10 mm bolts on forward edge loosened and two 10 mm bolts removed).
The 10 mm bottom bolt for the wheel well cover was also removed.
j. The windshield water bottle was removed and set aside without disconnecting the water line (three 10 mm bolts).
k. The Impact Sensor was removed (one 10 mm bolt and one 13 mm bolt).
l. The two bolt holes of the sensor were sanded clean and the bottom of the impact sensor was polished with steel wool.
m. The Impact Sensor was then replaced and the area spray painted black Rustoleum to seal and prevent corrosion of the polished areas.
n. The various components were then assembled in reverse order.

3. Inflation Rest Reconditioning ground only applies to 1990 ZR-1.

This from Marc.......(edited a bit)
For the 1991 through 1993 the Air Bag Sensors do not have to be grounded to work in a crash....they DO need to be attached to the Frame Rails however. The Grounding requirement (Code 16 and Code 26) of the Air Bag Sensors on the 1990 was set up to assure the sensors were attached to the Frame Rails. If the bolts were removed from the sensors the sensor would pass as air bag deployable but would not actually deploy the air bag for obvious reasons. This explains why I got NO INFL REST warning on the panel when I totally removed the 1991 Sensor from the Frame Rail in my test.

I am now thinking the Air Bag Sensors on the 1990 ZR-1 will function and Deploy the Air Bag even if not grounded. The 1990 Air Bag Sensors will only appear not grounded/not connected on the panel as INFL REST indicating/suggesting the Air Bag Sensors are not installed when in fact they ARE Installed. To get rid of that INFL REST Indication on the Panel (as well as the Red Seat Belt Indication) requires the Air Bag Sensors be Re-Grounded. I am not going to jar the Air Bag Sensor to see if the Air Bags Deploy to test that theory.

If any of the listed faults 21 - 26 for the 1991-1993 were detected in a self test the INFL REST will appear on the 1991-1993 panel. These faults are listed for the 1991-1993 in the ALDL Fault Code Sticky above this technical section.

21 Steering Column Resistance Too High
22 Steering Column Resistance Too Low]
23 Steering Column Circuit Voltage Too High
24 Steering Column Circuit Voltage Too Low
25 Short to Battery in Steering Column
26 Open in Steering Column

Now for the 1994-1995 since two air bags are used has different codes and there is NO SIR diagnostic terminal as indicated.
The 1994-1995 design requires a TECH 1 diagnostics because the data is sensitive as a result of Government Regulations. On the 1994-1995 ALDL Code Reader when used with Adapter I have noted SIR (the RED BUTTON) is NOT used See Item #3 ALDL Fault Code Reader/Eraser. All other Codes are readable using the 94'-95' Adapter with the ALDL Code Reader.

Marc Haibeck ALDL Connector Functional Description

4. INFL REST Connectors inside car.
There are a Left and Right Yellow INFL REST Connector inside the car that can accumulate resistance over time.
(Left - just in front of Drivers side Speaker at the level of the top of the Speaker)
(Right - Just to right of center hump front foot rest under carpet)
Depending if you have Code 16 (Drivers side) or Code 26 (Passenger side) locate the Left or Right Yellow Connector.
(3 inches long and 3/8 inch diameter three pin)
Disconnect and Reconnect Yellow Connector to regain continuity.

5. Erasing Codes.

a. Ground the ALDL Pin K to the base of the seat attachment metal (Pin K is 4th pin from Left on bottom row of ALDL).
b. Turn the ignition on and wait for the INFL REST light to start flashing (It should take about 5-7 Seconds).
c. When the INFL REST light starts flashing disconnect ground for about 3 seconds then ground pin K again for an additional 3 seconds.
d. Remove the ground and wait about ten seconds and ground pin K once more.
e. Code 12 flashes 6 times indication the codes have been cleared and the DERM is operating normally (Dignostic Energy Reserve Module).

6. Alternator Boot.

This Alternator Wire Boot fits perfectly on the main HOT wire of the Alternator connection and clips onto the Alternator Boot Retainer. Use a large FLAT HEAD screw driver to stretch the wire hole in the boot for insertion of the Alternator HOT wire connector. The wire hole in the boot retracts to normal size after wire connector insertion through the hole. This can be accomplished without removing anything from the Top End (The nut holding the HOT wire to the Alternator is removed, Old Boot Removed, New Boot installed, Nut Replaced).

See Alternator Wire Boot



Last UPDATE of post 65 Feb, 2018

Dynomite

A. One of the most important Tests of the LT5 is the Secondary Functional Test.

Marc Haibeck has identified a simple test to verify the Secondaries are functional without removing the Plenum SEE Verifying Secondary Operation with Plenum In Place. You only need a sharpened paper clip or needle and electrical grounding wire with alligator clips on both ends.

1. This simple test verifies if each/both Secondary Canisters activate the Secondaries equally and smoothly.
2. The complete opening of the secondaries should take only a second if the Canisters are functional.
3. The Vacuum Pump will cycle and then turn off when you turn the Key ON.
4. The Vacuum Pump may cycle every minute (vacuum system in great condition) or cycle every 5-10 seconds (vacuum system leaking which all vacuum systems leak a bit).

5. As the Canister shafts move/function during the grounding of Pin C17, the Vacuum Pump will cycle keeping vacuum as the canister plunger moves.
6. Once the canister is fully stroked, the vacuum pump will turn off for a period of time depending on the condition of the Vacuum System.
7. If there is a major Vacuum Leak between the Secondary Port Throttle Valve Solenoid and either Vacuum Canister, the Vacuum Pump will run continuously once Pin C17 is grounded.
8. The Vacuum Pump will turn off once Pin C17 is Un-Grounded.

With Key On........
Find the Pink Wire which is C17 (or pink wire with black strip) on the ECM. Insert a Sharpened Paperclip or needle along side the Pink wire
and attach a ground wire with Alligator Clip on both ends. Pin C17 is located in the Green Connector
second connector on the ECM from the passenger side.


Look down on the Passenger Side in the ...........................Look down on the Drivers Side in the
direction of the screw driver (Use a Flashlight). ..............direction of the screw driver (Use a Flashlight).
You will see the shaft of the canister which will ...............You will see the shaft of the canister which will
move toward the FRONT of the engine when ...................move toward the REAR of the engine when
you ground the Alligator Clip (The Front of the ................you ground the Alligator Clip (The Rear of the
engine is to the Right in the Photo)..................................(engine is to the Right in the Photo).


B. Reconditioning the Secondary Actuators.

I replaced the old vacuum canisters as well as the old Intake Manifold Control Valve Linkages. There was excessive play in the sockets of the old linkages.

Intake Manifold Control Valve Linkages




Last UPDATE of post 66 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Removing Cam Cover (Engine In Car) for Camshaft Timing Inspection, PCV Filter replacement, inspection of top Timing Chain Wear Strip. Replace PCV Filter, Top End Timing Chain Wear Strip as needed, and Cam Cover Spark Plug access "O" Rings (eight).
Use Loctite 518 when replacing Cam Covers on Cam Cover Mating Surfaces. See Item #1a Use of thread Lubricants, Loctite and Sealants

Removing Torx 40 bolts Not so easy......but then turned out very easy.
1. Cam Covers were removed by first removing Bolts from Transmission End of C-Frame, Loosening Engine Mount Bolts and then dropping Transmission a bit so cam covers could clear Brake Booster (two Torx-40 bolts near brake booster were removed with cam cover). On the Passenger side the Temperature sensor for Evaporator was removed easily and set aside (plenty room to then remove cam cover bolts and then cam cover on passenger side). The Transmission was lowered to remove the Cam Coover Torx-40s on passenger side and then raised to remove Cam Cover on Passenger side so Cam Cover could clear Fire Wall bolts. The Plenum was removed and the AC Compressor set aside to start the process.

2. Now the Hard Part......as can be seen five Torx-40 Cam Cover Bolts failed in the Torx receiver on the bolt head even though considerable downward pressure was applied to the Torx-40 socket/wrench. Several types of Torx 40s wrenches had to be used because of the clearance. Considerably more torque than the 19 ft-lbs for Torx-40 Cam Cover bolt installation was applied trying to remove them (a cheater on a 1/2 inch socket wrench)

3. Now the Easy Part........What to do.....Drill, Heat....Torch...

a. I tried drilling and ruined three drill bits (Drilling would not work on many of the Torx-40 bolts because of clearance).
b. I did not want to try heat (A little heat works great on Injector Housing for removal of Coolant Manifold Bolts) as there is no way to get heat where it is needed.
c. Chisel...........well wouldn't you know it.....Using a chisel to first notch one side of the Torx-40 bolt to gain a purch and then pounding that side counter clockwise with the chisels about 10 times without touching the Aluminum Cam Cover surface popped the bolt loose (all five). I would never have guessed it but ran out of options. And holding the chisel on a slant allowed access to even the most difficult to reach Cam Cover Torx-40s.

Cam Covers Removed Engine In Car...............................Note the chisel marks on the Torx-40 bolt heads


Cam Covers back on (The easy way with SS Allen Head Bolts) and Belt tensioner installed with belt
and New Belt Tensioner Pulley



Post 147 - LT5 Added Systems

="2"%Last UPDATE of post 67 Dec, 2019

Dynomite

Eliminating TB Coolant and Air Induction, Added Oil Catch Can, Painting, and Installing Fuel Line Bracket

1. TB Coolant and Air Induction Elimination.

See this link for TB Coolant Blocking drilling and threading details Injector Housing TB Coolant Blocking



2. Oil Catch Can Added......................................... .........Elimination of Air Induction.


3. Painting Top End.

Remove Plenum (with Air Horn and TB attached).
Remove Cam Covers for Painting and touch up Injector Housings (Paint) without removing them.

See Removing Cam Covers (Engine In Car) for Inspections of Camshafts

Painting Cam Covers ........................................ .............and Plenum with Air Horn/TB Attached.



4. Fuel Line Billet Bracket.

The Billet Fuel Line Clamp base for the fuel lines was installed replacing the original plastic clamp. The Billet Fuel Line Clamp is actually counter sunk underneath to provide more support as it sits on that screw/bolt that holds the fuel line clamp to the Evaporator Housing. The counter sinking provides more support for the Billet Clamp than the shoulder of the bolt only.

Hole in clamp is 1/4 inch with 5/8 inch hole (on bottom of Billet Clamp) recessed 1/16 inch so Billet clamp rests flush on mounting. Billet clamp is then held tight against Evaporator Housing rather than tight on bolt which may or may not be tight in evaporator housing.

87 Octane........................................ ....................................6 mm bolt uses 10 mm wrench


Base of Fuel Line Bracket on Evaporator Housing....................Billet Clamp is 1-7/8 x 3/4 x 1/2 inch


Hole in clamp is 1/4 inch with 5/8 inch recessed hole
(on bottom of Billet Clamp). This allows the shoulder
of the bolt to sit inside the Billet Clamp.



Last UPDATE of post 68 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Summary of 90' Reconditioning/Modifications (#2067)

1. Degreased and cleaned Valley and entire engine (including Valley Drain).
2. TB Coolant Eliminated.
3. Oil Catch Can Added (with SS Hydraulic Hose).
4. SS Oil Cooler Hoses Added.
5. Air Induction Eliminated.
6. New Belt Tensioner Pulley Added.
7. Plenum and Cam Covers Painted and Detailed.
8. SS Allen Head Bolts Added.
9. New Coils.
10. New Water Pump.
11. Reconditioned Starter.
12 New Secondary Control Rod and Bushings From Jerry's Gaskets.
13. New Gaskets (Jerry's Gaskets).
14 Full compliment of Carter Bling Added.
15. New Charcoal Canister.
16. New Coolant Hoses from Marc Haibeck.
17. C4-Beam Plates Added (ZFDoc).
18. Differential Drain Plug Added.
19. Alumuninum Water pump and Aluminum Power Steering Pulleys Added (Randy Woods).
20. New Altrenator Pulley Added.
21. New LT5 Spark Plug Wires.
22. New Secondary Canisters installed correctly.
23. Compression Checks ALL Cylinders (210-215 psi).
24. Radiator Debree Screen Added.
25. Wilwood Promatrix Rotors and C5 Z06 Calipers.
26. Drivers Side Electronics for Fans, Lights etc., moved Under Drivers Side Upper A-Arm.
27. Starter Relay Added and positioned under ECM Connectors.
28. New PCV Dual Connector from Jerry's Gaskets.
29. Stock Radiator Hose Clamps replaced with SS Worm Gear Hose Clamps (with insert).
30. New Cam Cover PCV FIlters from Marc Haibeck.
31. New 180 deg Thermostat from Marc Haibeck.
32. Checked and verified correct engine timing.
33. SS Air Intake Added (George Braml).
34. New NGK Iridium BKR5EIX Spark Plugs.
35. Cleaned Ground of both SIR Sensors.
36. SW Headers ZR1CORVOR and SW Exhaust ZR1CHAMSW.

Copper spacer added (two each 1 x 6 inch copper pipe
with coupler and end caps) to keep SW exhaust 1/4 inch
away from riding against Differential Housing. The end caps
and coupler actually keep the spacer in place without any ties.



I set the two rear hangers so they pull the exaust up tight against
the copper spacer. Also set the rear "L" hanger so there is freedom
of the exhaust system to move to the rear at least 1/2 inch when hot.

37. Modified Marc Haibeck Chip.
a. Spark Advance set up for 87 Octane Fuel.
b. Cooling Fans on at 205 deg and off at 200 deg.
c. Ingition spark advanced retarded when intake air temp reaches 160 deg.
d. ignition spark timing knock retard reduced bh 50%.
e. CAGS 1 to 4 shift disbled.
f. Fueling increased to support +35 hp with SW Headers and Exhaust.
g. Light load spark advanced increased 5% at all engine speeds.
h. Wide open trottle advanced set at 26 deg.

38. Modified Marc Haibeck Chip.
a. Spark Advance set up for 91 Octane Fuel.
b. Ignition spark advance increased 10% at all engine speeds.
c. 25 deg + 3 deg = 28 deg at WOT.
d. Enabled manual transmission.
e. Both fans to go on at 205 and both off at 200 degs.
f. Fuel added to support +125 HP.
g. Anti-backfire mode enabled.
h. Knock retard reduced by 50%.
i. CAGS (1 to 4 shift) disabled.
j. Secondary Port Throttle Control removed.
k. Power key mode default is ON.



You will notice this photo taken with engine running is not blury at all indicating absolutely NO VIBRATION
Of either the Alternator Pulley or Belt Tensioner Pulley. See item #9 of Bling (Carter and Others)



BEFORE Reconditioning/Modifications


AFTER Reconditioning/Modifications





="2"%Last UPDATE of post 69 Dec, 2019

Dynomite

Bling (Carter and Others)

All Aluminum Caps are machined with very close tolerance and fit perfectly over existing caps.
All Aluminum caps are engraved.



1. POWER STEERING FLUID ........................... 2. RADIATOR 15 PSI CAP


3. WASHER FLUID ONLY (Wipers Etched).........4. ENGINE COOLANT OVERFLOW


5. IH Coolant Manifolds...................................6. TB Coolant


7. Oil Filter Cap


8. BRAKE FLUID DOT 4 ONLY


9. Carter Fuel Line Bracket Installed.

91 Octane........................................ ..............................87 Octane


Bracket Top and Bottom........................................ ........Bracket Center


91 Octane on one end of Bracket and 87 Octane on other end of Bracket.
91 Octane........................................ ...........................87 Octane


10. Other Bling

A. Billet Aluminum Oil Cap
Search Ebay CORVETTE LT1 BILLET CHROME SCREW IN STYLE OIL CAP Ebay Billet Aluminum Oil Cap (fits 90' & 91' LT5 & L98).
The Billet Aluminum Oil Cap has an "O" ring.



B. Billet Aluminum Dipstick Handle
See Item #3 of Post 19 - LT5 Lubrication Tricks



C. 95' With Aluminum Oil Filter Cover



Last UPDATE of post 70 July, 2020

Dynomite

1991 ZR-1 (LT5) Performance

Marc Haibeck Chips (87 Octane and 91 Octane)
Pete Cams...........ZZZZZZOOOOOOOOM!!!!!!
Locobob Porting............ZZZZZZOOOOOOOOM!!!!!!
A26B Gaskets
Carter200 Machining
ZF Doc "C" Beam Plates
Doc Don's Bose
SW Headers and SW Exhaust

Way Over 115 mph in quarter mile down the street with no power shifts
(I will keep the details secret for a challenge........just in case)





Click on Video Link SW ZR1CORVOR headers and SW ZR1CHAMSW to hear 91' ZR-1 with SW ZR1CORVOR headers and SW ZR1CHAM exhaust.


Last UPDATE of post 71 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

1991 ZR-1 (LT5) Modifications (500+ HorsePower)

Details here Summary of 91' Reconditioning/Modifications

1991 ZR-1 (LT5)

This is a 1991 ZR-1 (LT5) with SW Headers, SW exhaust and ZF S6-40 Transmission. The modifications include eliminated secondary vacuum system, eliminated plenum coolant, eliminated Throttle body coolant, eliminated air induction system, and eliminated CATS. Haibeck Chips and some other stuff are also included.






Last UPDATE of post 72 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Summary of 5 LT5 Restorations

Summary of ZR-1 Restorations
All have Differential Case Drain, C4 Beam Plates, Billet Aluminum Pulleys (Alternator, Water Pump, Power Steering, Belt Tensioner). Carter Bling, Oil Cooler SS Braided Hoses, TB Coolant Blocked, New 180 deg Thermostat, New Radiator Hoses, Debree Screen, Haibeck Chips (91 Octain), New Aluminum Radiator, New Charcoal Canister, Starter Relay, Battery Disconnect, INFL REST Sensor Re-installed, New Linkage for Secondary Port Throttles.

1995 LT5 (#186)
1995 Z 1G1YZ22J5S5800186
CA 87,600 miles Apr 2016
BMCBG4 Haibeck 91 Octain
New 200 Amp Alternator
Rebuilt trans Aug 2015 ZFDoc
New U-Joints Main Driver Shaft
Wilwood Brakes
New Fuel Filter July 2016
INJ Fuse issue - ALL New Red Looms
NO Starter Relay
INFL REST Sensor NOT Re-installed



1991 LT5 (1427)
1991 Z 1G1YZ23J4M5801427
CA 50,000 miles Mar 2009
BFXBG2CS2 Haibeck 91 Octain
New 200 amp alternator
SS Exhaust
Wilwood Brakes
90' heads 27K miles with modified Injector Housings BAD Z
New Blue Label Transmission
New Nitto NT555 Tires
New Oil Pan Gasket



1990 LT5 (#3032)
1990 Z 1G1YZ23J4L5803032
SD 57,750 miles June 2014
AYBKG4 Haibeck 91 Octain



1990 LT5 (#72)
1990 Z 1G1YZ23J1L5800072
CA 38,000 miles March 2014
AYBKG5 Haibeck 91 Octain
Air Pump Deleted
New Fuel Filter Sep 2016
New Windshield Apr 2016
New Oil Pan Gasket Sep 2016
New Nitto NT555 Front, Dunlop 8000 Rear
New Wheels Saw Blades



1990 LT5 (#2067)
1990 Z 1G1YZ23J7L5802067
SD 76,300 miles Nov 2012
AYBKG4 CS1a Haibeck 91 Octain
SS Exhaust
Wilwood Brakes
New Nitto Tires



1990 L98 (#8550)
1990 L98 1G1YY2382L5108550
CA 56,000 miles July 2009
ARFPCL1 high Octane installed

1991 Bebuilt
91' heads 28K miles Corvettenutz
with painted cam covers CA installed in rebuilt 91’
91' LT5 36K miles CA Jan 2015
Extras
91' Heads 36K miles CA Jan 2015
91' transmission 36K miles CA Jan 2015
95’ Tramsmission 88K miles CA (ZFdoc)
95’ Crate Engine
91’ Injector Housings PCV Restricted
91’ Heads Plained Bad Z CA
Rebuilt 91’ Bad Z Trans installed in 95’ Aug 2015
91zrocket 90’ Heads with 27K miles in BAD Z PCV restricted
91zrocket 90' Transmission 27K miles SD

AUAH 8555. Stock first half SD spare
91’ AXFK Stock Last Half
90’ AYBK Stock
91’ BFXBG2JE Fans On 165 deg Haibeck
91’ BFXBG2CS3 Low Octain

Last UPDATE of post 73 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

I use Amsoil 10W-40 in the LT5 engines.
I use Mobile 1 (M1-207) LT5 Engine Oil Filter.
I use Castrol 10W-60 in the ZF S6-40 (Black Label or Blue Label) Transmissions.
I use Mobile 1 (75W-90) Differential Fluid in the ZR-1s.
I use NAPA coolant (GM 1825M) in ALL ZR-1s (-10 deg F).

........ . .



Last UPDATE of post 74 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

1990 ZR-1 (LT5) Performance/Reconditioning/Modifications

Details here Summary of 90' Reconditioning/Modifications


You will notice this photo taken with engine running is not blury at all indicating absolutely NO VIBRATION
Of either the Alternator Pulley or Belt Tensioner Pulley. See item #9 of Bling (Carter and Others)




Last UPDATE of post 75 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

1991 (#1427) LT5 Specific Rebuild Tricks

Summary of 91' Reconditioning/Modifications (#1427)

1. New Starter (Sep 2019).
2. New 60/80 amp No Start Relay installed.
3. New Ron Davis radiator.
4. New 180 deg thermostat.
5. New Water pump.
6. New Red Samco hoses.
7. New Stainless powder coated cross over pipe.
8. New Modified Fuel Pressure Regulator (Sep 2019).
9. New Serpentine Belt (Gates K060798).
10. New Jeffvette braided stainless steel oil cooler lines.
11. New 200 amp alternator.
12. New Randy Woods Aluminum power steering pump pulley.
13. New Randy Woods Aluminum water pump pulley.
14. New Front cover oil seal.
15. New Primary timing chain.
16. New Primary timing chain guide.
17. New coils.
18. New LT5 plug wires.
19. New plugs NGK Iridium BKR5EIX.
20. New Randy Woods LT5X Head Studs.
21. New LH chain tension.
22. New RH chain tension (new style.)
23. New Jeffvette Billet aluminum Camshaft Retainers.
24. New Mellings JB 2236 Lifters.
25. New Elite Oil catch can.
26. New Revolution Marines Pre Oiler.
27. New RC SL4-205 injectors on fuel rails with new "O" rings.
28. New SW headers ZR1CORVOR.
29. New SW exhaust ZR1CHAMSW.
30. New Crankshaft rear oil seal housing gasket.
31. New Crankshaft rear oil seal.
32. New Center Force pressure plate.
33. New Center Force unsprung clutch plate.
34. New Throwout bearing.
35. New 95' ZF S6-40 Transmission.
36. New C4 Beam Plates.
37. New Differential oil drain plug (drilled and tapped).
38. New Differential oil drain plug.
39. New Brake pads in C5 Z06 calipers.
40. New Nitto NT 555 Extreme Performance FRONT.
41. New Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials REAR.
42. New Billet Aluminum oil cap.
43. New Cam Cover PCV FIlters from Marc Haibeck.
44. SS Air Intake Added (George Braml).
45. New Chrome Dip Stick Tube (LT5-1935).
46. New LED tail/brake lights (48 LED per light).
47. New Billet aluminum tail light louvers.
48. New LED CHMSL lights (6 LED per bulb).
49. Fluids Zerex Original 1825 on label antifreeze.
50. Fluids Mobile 1 75W-90 Differential oil (limited slip.
51. Fluids Mobil 1 M1-207 Oil filter.
52. Fluids Amsoil 10W-40 AMO Engine oil.
53. Fluids Castrol TWS 10W-60 Transmission oil .
54. Eliminated Secondary actuators.
55. Eliminated Secondary vacuum system.
56. Eliminated Plenum coolant.
57. Eliminated Throttle body coolant.
58. Eliminated Air Induction system.
59. Eliminated CATS.
60. Upgraded Powder coated air horn.
61. Upgraded Powder coated throttle body.
62. Upgraded Engraved throttle body (Carter.).
63. Upgraded Cam timing 114In 108Ex .
64. Upgraded Powder coated plenum.
65. Upgraded Powder coated injector housings.
66. Upgraded Powder coated coolant manifolds.
67. Upgraded Engraved coolant manifolds (Carter).
68. Upgraded Ported injector housings/plenum (Locobob).
69. Upgraded Ported heads/injector housing (Locobob).
70. Upgraded Ported Air Horn (Locobob).
71. Upgraded Regrind Intake Camshaft Intake .236 .425 (Pete).
72. Upgraded Regrind Exhaust Camshaft Exhaust .220 .425 (Pete.)
73. Upgraded Valves reconditioned.
74. Upgraded C5 Z06 calipers and Wilwood two piece rotors.
75. Upgraded C5 Z06 calipers repainted.
76. Upgraded Bose radio/CD player.
77. Upgraded Door amplifyers.
78. Relocated Oil Pressure Sensor.
79. Like New Red hard top from my 90 L98.

Photos and descriptions of Specific Rebuild Tricks for a 1991 LT5 engine starting with installation of Piston Sleeves and New Pistons are provided. This section will contain mostly photos of the Rebuild process with specifics on bolt torque, Loctite and Sealants. Specific Rebuild Techniques are highlighted with photos. This section is continually upgraded with the best methods described for each of the Post Heading Topics (Post #76 - Post #95).

Specific Modifications.
LT5 Eliminated Systems
LT5 Added Systems

The photo coverage of Engine installation (post # 87) is most important (engine removal can be envisioned from that description) see the first step associated with engine removal and last step of engine installation associated with the Wiper Motor How to Replace the Wiper Motor



Specific TIPS/cautions will be enumerated near the end of each post in (Notes:).

LT5 SPECIFIC REBUILD TRICKS
Post 76 - LT5 Rebuild Tricks
Post 77 - New Piston Sleeve and Piston
Post 78 - Timing Chain Guides Installation
Post 79 - Timing Chain Idler Sprocket Lubrication and Installation
Post 80 - Front Cover, OPRV Cover, Water Pump, Harmonic Balancer
Post 81 - Fywheel, Clutch, Bell Housing
Post 82 - Checking for Oil Leaks/Make SS Braided Oil Lines
Post 83 - Installing Heads and Camshafts
Post 84 - Camshaft Timing
Post 85 - Camshaft Timing Detailed Tricks
Post 86 - Cam Covers and Injector Housings Installation
Post 87 - Installing Headers
Post 88 - Installing Engine In ZR1
Post 89 - ECM Chip and Other Electrical Connectors
Post 90 - Alternator, AC Pump, Power Steering Pump
Post 91 - Installing Fuel Rails
Post 92 - Installing Plenum
Post 93 - Coolant
Post 94 - Preliminary Starting Checks
Post 95 - Engine Running First Time Checks

Last UPDATE of post 76 Sep, 2019

Dynomite

Installing New Piston Sleeve/Liner and Piston (Information provided by Ben - bdw18_123)

1. How much Loctite 565 did you use and where?
The LT5 manual calls for a 12mm (.47 in.) wide band of sealer around the entire circumference of the liner, 25.4mm (1.0 in.) from the base of the liner (the parts that touch the surface when you set the liner down).


However, before you glue the liner in, you have to set the liner in place without glue first and measure the liner 'standout height' to make sure it is within spec. This is extremely critical because the head gasket can compensate for only a very small variance between the liners and cylinder case deck.

IMPORTANT!
Liner must be installed with flats positioned 90 degrees to crankshaft axis (flats facing front and rear of cylinder case).
Flats of adjacent liners should be parallel so that a small gap exists between them.

MEASURE
Measure liner standout height. This distance from the cylinder case deck to the lower ridge at the top of the liner should be 0.001 - 0.003 in. If standout height is not within specification, inspect liner ridge for damage, dirt or burrs. Clean as required. Recheck standout height. If still not within specification, Inspect Cylinder case liner seat for damage, dirt or burrs. Clean as required. Recheck standout height. If still not within specification, Replace cylinder liner. Recheck standout height.

Measure the liner for out-of-round and taper (a new liner should be OK in this regard).
Once the standout height is within spec, the liner can be glued in place.

2. Do all the sleeves fit the same way or does it depend on a cylinder by cylinder basis?
The cutouts are symmetrical at the base of the liner. The flats of each liner should be facing each other.


3. Can you just push that new sleeve/liner in or does that take some clamping to get the new sleave in place? Or tapping in with wood block and hammer?
You shouldn't need to tap or hit the liner at all to put it in place. It should just slide right in real easily. The only reason you need the puller to remove a liner is because of the glue.

4. Do you have to hold that new liner in place for how long?
The manual doesn't mention any specific time frame, it just says to install the cylinder liner retainers and leave them in place until head installation. You can make liner retainers using sockets and the head bolts.

5. Did you hone the new sleeve/liner to make sure the new rings seat?
No, because the manual specifically says: "DO NOT hone cylinder liners!", which I assume is due to the hardened nikasil coating. Completely different deal compared to what you would do in this case on, say, an iron block. So yeah, definitely don't do that.

6. Which way do the rings go on the piston?
Top compression ring should be installed with chamfer (or bevel) facing downward.
Second compression ring should be installed with manufacturer mark (TOP) facing upward.
Rings should be installed with gaps spaced approximately 120 degrees apart from one another.

7. Installing Piston
The Ring Comressor is closed around the piston after the rings are installed. The inside of the New Piston Sleeve/Liner and New Piston outside diameter (including rings) are lubricated with engine oil. The Piston with Ring Compressor is then set in place inside the New Piston Sleeve/Liner with the Ring Compressor sitting in contact with the top of the New Piston Sleeve (not inside the sleeve/liner). The New Piston is then gently (making sure the piston is not cocked one way or the other) tapped into the New Piston Sleeve with the wooden end of a hammer.



Notes:
1. The arrow on the top of the piston should point towards the front of the engine and the chamfer (or bevel) on the journal end of the rod should face the crankshaft counterweight.

[b]2. The Connecting Rod Bolts should not be reused as they are stressed into yield during assembly. The Connecting Rod Bolts (threads and cap lubricated with engine oil) are torqued to 22 ft-lbs + 80 deg additional turn (no loctite). The original Connecting Rod Bolts have a 12 pt 14 mm head and new ARP Connecting Rod Bolts from Marc Haibeck have a 12 pt 13 mm head.

3. Lubricate both halves of the Rod Bearings and the Crankshaft Journal with engine oil before assembly.

Last UPDATE of post 77 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Timing Chain Guides Installation




Magnetic 10 mm deep socket used to secure the guides to the enigne block.



Notes:
1. Use Magnetic 10 mm deep socket to replace the timing chain guide bolts on the two fixed guides (top left and bottom right). This prevents loss of bolt within the front cover during initial installation.

2. The top left guide was positioned high against the 8 mm bolt fixing the guide in place. The bottom right guide was positioned low against the 8 mm bolt fixing the guide in place.

Last UPDATE of post 78 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Timing Chain Idler Sprocket Lubrication and Installation

1. LT5 Timing Chain Idler Sprocket Lubrication.

A #20 Torx can be used to remove the small Torx screw holding the bearing cover in place on the Timing Chain Idler Sprocket. Place two of the Timing Chain Idler Sprocket bolts (10 mm Head x 8 mm x 100 mm) into the Idler Sprocket holes with the Heads of those two bolts in a vice. Remove the #20 Torx screw. Use Red Loctite when replacing the #20 Torx screw.

There is an oil path around one of the three 10 mm Head (8 mm) x 100 mm bolts that attaches the inner race of the Timing Chain Idler Sprocket to the engine case (The distance between two 8 mm x 100 mm bolts is smaller so the Timing Chain Idler Sprocket inner race can only be attached to the engine case one way).

This oil path is vented from the bolt hole into the needle bearing area of the inner race. The Timing Chain Idler Sprocket inner race can be attached to the engine case in only one orientation assuring that the oil pressure from the engine case is directed to the Timing Chain Idler Sprocket Bolt hole that is vented to the needle bearings..



The two sets of Timing Chain Idler Sprocket needle bearings can be seen in the photos.



The Timing Chain Idler Sprocket oil pathway entrance to needle bearings from bolt hole to the inner race (left) and exit from sprocket (right) can be seen in the small ports of the inner race and outer sprockets.



2. LT5 Timing Chain Idler Sprocket Installation (Primary Timing Chain and Tensioner).

Included here are the Primary Timing Chain, Primary Chain Tensioner, Left and Right Timing Chains. A bit of red loctite was applied to the first threads of each of the three 8 mm x 100 mm bolts that hold the idler sprocket to the engine block which were then torqued to 19 ft-lbs.

Primary Chain Tensioner.



Notes:
1. Make sure the small oil pathways related to the Timing Chain Idler Sprocket are clear of anything that might block such a small oil passage.

Resetting Timing Chain Tensioners See Setting/Installing the Chain Tensioners Tricks

Last UPDATE of post 79 Dec, 2017

Dynomite

Installing Front Cover, OPRV Cover, Water Pump, Harmonic Balancer, Oil Pan

1. Front Cover.
Lubricate the front cover oil seal and harmonic balancer collar with engine oil.
The front cover bolts are all installed with loctite and torqed to 19 ft-lbs.



2. Harmonic Balancer.
The Harmonic balancer is initially installed using a standard harmonic balancer bolt welded to a longer threaded shaft (the Harmonic Balancer bolt alone is not long enough to initially set the Harmonic Balancer). Use Red Loctite (262) and torque the Harmonic Balancer bolt to 148 ft-lbs (block of wood jammed into the crankshaft area with oil pan removed). Be carefull the timing chains are not locked on the timing chain idler sprocket preventing the crankshaft from turning.



3. Water Pump Installation.

I use a very thin coat of Permatex 300 Form A Gasket on each side of the Water Pump gasket and IH coolant manifold gaskets (unless you have eliminated TB coolant) before installing. I use a drop of Blue Loctite 242 on all water pump bolts and torque all water pump bolts 18 ft-lbs. NO LEAKS





Notes:
1. I use a very light coat of Permatex on all gaskets in contact with oil or water coating the mating surfaces in contact with the gasket.
2. A trick is to make sure the half moon key slides easily in the key way before installing the Harmonic Balancer. Make sure the alignment of the key way and key is perfect before installing the harmonic balancer. Check as the Harmonic Balancer is pushed onto the crankshaft that the key remains in position as long as you can see the key.
3. Use Red Loctite (262) on the threads of the Harmonic Balancer crankshaft bolt.
4. Torque the front cover 8 mm (10 mm head) bolts to 19 ft-lbs.
5. Torque the Harmonic Balancer bolt to 148 ft-bs.
6. Be carefull the timing chains are not locked on the timing chain idler sprocket preventing the crankshaft from turning.

Last UPDATE of post 80 Dec, 2017