Part Number for 95 Coolant sensor on right head (guage sensor)
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Part Number for 95 Coolant sensor on right head (guage sensor)
I'm having a real hard time finding this part number....or OEM part for that matter!
Ecklers sent me the wrong part even though they have the correct part picture in their catalog, and will not correct their website although they agree it is the wrong part they are sending out...how stupid is that? They did refund my money though.
The sensor is a single wire unit with a round brass stud connector on top.
None of the parts suppliers seem to carry the correct sensor unit, all two wire or one wire with a spade connector.
Does anyone know what the OEM GM part number is?
Has anyone ordered and received the correct part recently?
Ecklers sent me the wrong part even though they have the correct part picture in their catalog, and will not correct their website although they agree it is the wrong part they are sending out...how stupid is that? They did refund my money though.
The sensor is a single wire unit with a round brass stud connector on top.
None of the parts suppliers seem to carry the correct sensor unit, all two wire or one wire with a spade connector.
Does anyone know what the OEM GM part number is?
Has anyone ordered and received the correct part recently?
Last edited by 95BLKVette; 01-20-2013 at 03:15 PM.
#2
I'm having a real hard time finding this part number....or OEM part for that matter!
Ecklers sent me the wrong part even though they have the correct part picture in their catalog, and will not correct their website although they agree it is the wrong part they are sending out...how stupid is that? They did refund my money though.
The sensor is a single wire unit with a round brass stud connector on top.
None of the parts suppliers seem to carry the correct sensor unit, all two wire or one wire with a spade connector.
Does anyone know what the OEM GM part number is?
Has anyone ordered and received the correct part recently?
Ecklers sent me the wrong part even though they have the correct part picture in their catalog, and will not correct their website although they agree it is the wrong part they are sending out...how stupid is that? They did refund my money though.
The sensor is a single wire unit with a round brass stud connector on top.
None of the parts suppliers seem to carry the correct sensor unit, all two wire or one wire with a spade connector.
Does anyone know what the OEM GM part number is?
Has anyone ordered and received the correct part recently?
Is this what you were sent:
Connector for it GM # 12126458 (ACD PT728):
Are the cylinder heads original? The button style you describe I don't believe was used in the LT engine family. You could use a less expensive connector that would be 2 pin and just use the correct pin. Ignore the other lead!
Shop LOCAL!!!!
Last edited by WVZR-1; 01-20-2013 at 06:14 PM.
#3
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 1999
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This could be the part you describe and it appears will work on
a L98 and LT engine with the restyled dash starting in 90.
Click below.
It appears the GM documentation is not accurate.
The thread below shows the style you describe was used in a 90 L98
but the micro fiche says it was used on 90-95 ZR1's.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1578104956-post6.html
a L98 and LT engine with the restyled dash starting in 90.
Click below.
It appears the GM documentation is not accurate.
The thread below shows the style you describe was used in a 90 L98
but the micro fiche says it was used on 90-95 ZR1's.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1578104956-post6.html
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; 01-21-2013 at 01:20 PM.
#4
A '91 L98 uses the Amazon linked part and I believe the ACD part # has changed to the linked 213-80 but i see no documentation that it's a correct fit for the OP's '95. My guess was that at some point someone bought maybe the incorrect sender because they got "argumentative" about the 2-pin I displayed and the guy said here take this and gave them the "button head" and sent them on their way. Happens everyday.
If he buys the "button head" and it reads correctly life could be good. If it's not a physical fit (thread) he could exchange it(the thread I'm quite sure is the same) or if it reads in "error" then he would need to "BUY" the second one because he "PICKED" the first. It really pays to shop "LOCAL" - why argue with the Internet based vendor in this case Ecklers.
I'd say Ecklers sold him the correct part BUT they're not "parts guys" and couldn't explain! Refunded him and sent him on his way! We don't know what they sold. The OP just said "it ain't right" because it didn't match what he says is in car.
The image I displayed is what should I believe be in all LT based vehicles, '92 forward. The LT5 isn't an LT based engine only "tagged" as when released.
Since the gauge is 260 (I believe) in both the '90/'91 and the '95 cluster buy the 25037346 (ACD 213-80) and maybe move on. It's not "factually" correct but it will likely put the needle where it needs to be, LIKELY!!
If he buys the "button head" and it reads correctly life could be good. If it's not a physical fit (thread) he could exchange it(the thread I'm quite sure is the same) or if it reads in "error" then he would need to "BUY" the second one because he "PICKED" the first. It really pays to shop "LOCAL" - why argue with the Internet based vendor in this case Ecklers.
I'd say Ecklers sold him the correct part BUT they're not "parts guys" and couldn't explain! Refunded him and sent him on his way! We don't know what they sold. The OP just said "it ain't right" because it didn't match what he says is in car.
The image I displayed is what should I believe be in all LT based vehicles, '92 forward. The LT5 isn't an LT based engine only "tagged" as when released.
Since the gauge is 260 (I believe) in both the '90/'91 and the '95 cluster buy the 25037346 (ACD 213-80) and maybe move on. It's not "factually" correct but it will likely put the needle where it needs to be, LIKELY!!
Last edited by WVZR-1; 01-21-2013 at 03:24 AM.
#6
Why did you buy the PT308? That is not for the switch you bought!
Did you NOT see my hint to "BUY LOCAL !!!
You need just a plastic connector and a terminal! You'll need to do them local "like it or not"!!! Can you cancel your order from Amazon?
This is what you bought for a connector:
The connector you bought fits the knock-sensor:
Last edited by WVZR-1; 01-21-2013 at 01:49 PM.
#7
You'll need to get one of these at the dealer:
6288704 Connector (plastic only) and a Packard 56 female terminal to fit it. You'll need an experienced "parts man" NOT a "parts boy"!
There used to be a pigtail for it from ACD but the're discontinued, they were PT1043 and PT691
You might be able to find somewhere or maybe an auto parts store could help you by cross referencing them.
EFI Connection might have the connector:
Silly question: Why didn't you just buy the right stuff?
6288704 Connector (plastic only) and a Packard 56 female terminal to fit it. You'll need an experienced "parts man" NOT a "parts boy"!
There used to be a pigtail for it from ACD but the're discontinued, they were PT1043 and PT691
You might be able to find somewhere or maybe an auto parts store could help you by cross referencing them.
EFI Connection might have the connector:
Silly question: Why didn't you just buy the right stuff?
Last edited by WVZR-1; 01-21-2013 at 02:33 PM.
#8
Instructor
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I've gone through four sensors on my '96 LT1, and finally ended up with this one (which registers on the gauge, but I don't think the resistance value is correct). I bought the pigtail that connects to it properly, and am using the lead that connects to the smaller pin:
The 213-80 with the spade connector is what I originally had on mine, and could not locate that type easily, so gave up and used the one in the image above. I really would like to have a sensor that's accurate, so if the 213-80 ends up being the right part I'm going to swap out the sensor for the fifth and final time...
Never had so many problems locating such a simple part, ever...
95BLKVette: If the sensor reliably reports the temperature, please post up.
The 213-80 with the spade connector is what I originally had on mine, and could not locate that type easily, so gave up and used the one in the image above. I really would like to have a sensor that's accurate, so if the 213-80 ends up being the right part I'm going to swap out the sensor for the fifth and final time...
Never had so many problems locating such a simple part, ever...
95BLKVette: If the sensor reliably reports the temperature, please post up.
Last edited by JoeUser; 01-21-2013 at 03:34 PM.
#9
I've gone through four sensors on my '96 LT1, and finally ended up with this one (which registers on the gauge, but I don't think the resistance value is correct). I bought the pigtail that connects to it properly, and am using the lead that connects to the smaller pin:
The 213-80 with the spade connector is what I originally had on mine, and could not locate that type easily, so gave up and used the one in the image above. I really would like to have a sensor that's accurate, so if the 213-80 ends up being the right part I'm going to swap out the sensor for the fifth and final time...
Never had so many problems locating such a simple part, ever...
95BLKVette: If the sensor reliably reports the temperature, please post up.
The 213-80 with the spade connector is what I originally had on mine, and could not locate that type easily, so gave up and used the one in the image above. I really would like to have a sensor that's accurate, so if the 213-80 ends up being the right part I'm going to swap out the sensor for the fifth and final time...
Never had so many problems locating such a simple part, ever...
95BLKVette: If the sensor reliably reports the temperature, please post up.
#10
Melting Slicks
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Here's another source for the connector/pigtail for that
type sender. Price varies so shop around.
http://www.amazon.com/Pico-5665pt-Gm.../dp/B001RPPRXC
#11
O'Reilly has the correct part- although AZ and AA had the part listed separately from the other CTS, it was the same part which didn't fit. IIRC, Napa didn't have it or they were out of stock. Went to O'Reilly and they had the correct part and it went right in and plugged right up (this was on my 92). No need to swap the pigtail, unless your connector is destroyed.
For some reason, I suspect most part suppliers carry it as the same part as the other sensor.
For some reason, I suspect most part suppliers carry it as the same part as the other sensor.
#12
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O'Reilly has the correct part- although AZ and AA had the part listed separately from the other CTS, it was the same part which didn't fit. IIRC, Napa didn't have it or they were out of stock. Went to O'Reilly and they had the correct part and it went right in and plugged right up (this was on my 92). No need to swap the pigtail, unless your connector is destroyed.
For some reason, I suspect most part suppliers carry it as the same part as the other sensor.
For some reason, I suspect most part suppliers carry it as the same part as the other sensor.
My first replacement unit was from O'Reilly, but it didn't look anything like the one I replaced (looked like the one picture I posted earlier). The original that was in the car when I bought it was the button-type, not the spade, with a single wire. Although, I did try a version that had a spade on it (based upon some postings I found in another forum's thread, that claimed to be the proper unit).
In the end, I re-installed the O'Reilly unit, and bought a pigtail adapter that plugged into it. It works, but I'm not confident that it's the correct sensor (due to its very low reading on the gauge).
#13
This was my experience, as well. Seems like there are inconsistencies across many parts stores (as well as parts manufacturers that supply those stores).
My first replacement unit was from O'Reilly, but it didn't look anything like the one I replaced (looked like the one picture I posted earlier). The original that was in the car when I bought it was the button-type, not the spade, with a single wire. Although, I did try a version that had a spade on it (based upon some postings I found in another forum's thread, that claimed to be the proper unit).
In the end, I re-installed the O'Reilly unit, and bought a pigtail adapter that plugged into it. It works, but I'm not confident that it's the correct sensor (due to its very low reading on the gauge).
My first replacement unit was from O'Reilly, but it didn't look anything like the one I replaced (looked like the one picture I posted earlier). The original that was in the car when I bought it was the button-type, not the spade, with a single wire. Although, I did try a version that had a spade on it (based upon some postings I found in another forum's thread, that claimed to be the proper unit).
In the end, I re-installed the O'Reilly unit, and bought a pigtail adapter that plugged into it. It works, but I'm not confident that it's the correct sensor (due to its very low reading on the gauge).
It appears if you have C68 you can check it! I believe you press fan up and down at the same time to enter diagnostics for maybe 5 seconds. Using the fan up go to parameter 16 and then press the auto button and you should get the ECT display - I believe - I've never done it - someone will maybe help or tell me I'm full of it !!!!
Last edited by WVZR-1; 01-22-2013 at 11:11 AM.
#14
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Mine is a '96 LT1. I plan to get one of those handheld thermal thermometers (laser type), not specifically for this issue but also to use around the house for HVAC.
I haven't tried to pull up the ECT display using the temp controller. To tell the truth, I'm not sure if it actually works for the '96, due to the fact that it's the first model to use ODBII. But, even with the ODBII readings it only reports the digital temp at the water pump, and not the head's sender unit. BTW, I have a Scangauge II that I use to measure ODBII readings, already connected and viewable while driving.
From what I understand, the only way to truly determine the correct unit is to measure resistance at varying temperatures. But, haven't felt it significantly important enough to go through the effort yet. Plus, try finding resistance specs for various sensors from today's big-box parts stores...
So, have been taking the "throw sensors at it" approach, lol...
I haven't tried to pull up the ECT display using the temp controller. To tell the truth, I'm not sure if it actually works for the '96, due to the fact that it's the first model to use ODBII. But, even with the ODBII readings it only reports the digital temp at the water pump, and not the head's sender unit. BTW, I have a Scangauge II that I use to measure ODBII readings, already connected and viewable while driving.
From what I understand, the only way to truly determine the correct unit is to measure resistance at varying temperatures. But, haven't felt it significantly important enough to go through the effort yet. Plus, try finding resistance specs for various sensors from today's big-box parts stores...
So, have been taking the "throw sensors at it" approach, lol...
#15
Mine is a '96 LT1. I plan to get one of those handheld thermal thermometers (laser type), not specifically for this issue but also to use around the house for HVAC.
I haven't tried to pull up the ECT display using the temp controller. To tell the truth, I'm not sure if it actually works for the '96, due to the fact that it's the first model to use ODBII. But, even with the ODBII readings it only reports the digital temp at the water pump, and not the head's sender unit. BTW, I have a Scangauge II that I use to measure ODBII readings, already connected and viewable while driving.
From what I understand, the only way to truly determine the correct unit is to measure resistance at varying temperatures. But, haven't felt it significantly important enough to go through the effort yet. Plus, try finding resistance specs for various sensors from today's big-box parts stores...
So, have been taking the "throw sensors at it" approach, lol...
I haven't tried to pull up the ECT display using the temp controller. To tell the truth, I'm not sure if it actually works for the '96, due to the fact that it's the first model to use ODBII. But, even with the ODBII readings it only reports the digital temp at the water pump, and not the head's sender unit. BTW, I have a Scangauge II that I use to measure ODBII readings, already connected and viewable while driving.
From what I understand, the only way to truly determine the correct unit is to measure resistance at varying temperatures. But, haven't felt it significantly important enough to go through the effort yet. Plus, try finding resistance specs for various sensors from today's big-box parts stores...
So, have been taking the "throw sensors at it" approach, lol...
#16
Drifting
Thread Starter
i did manage to catch my Amazon order in time and cancel both the connector and sensor
It's crazy that no one carries the corrct part though
It's crazy that no one carries the corrct part though
#17
I don't know if it's the same for a 95 as my 92, but here is the link for the one that worked perfectly for my 92 ($19.99). The O'reilly part number was WT3025:
http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei...keyword=wt3025
The AZ and AA parts were incorrect; even though the coolant temp sensor and "coolant temp gauge sender" were listed differently, they were actually the same part. But the part that controls the gauge is the one above. Again, this was the correct part for my 92, not sure of other years.
http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei...keyword=wt3025
The AZ and AA parts were incorrect; even though the coolant temp sensor and "coolant temp gauge sender" were listed differently, they were actually the same part. But the part that controls the gauge is the one above. Again, this was the correct part for my 92, not sure of other years.
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95BLKVette (10-24-2015)
#18
A 260 gauge sender might have something in the high 120C range.
POST BACK!!!!!!!