T-56 vs 4+3 shifter placement
#21
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
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St. Jude Donor '05
Pretty sure the shifter is an avg of 3 in farther back not sure how far over.
There was someone who posted up a week or so ago about thiers they made. Cant find it.
On the LT1 PP it may come with bolts hopefully, the GM LT1 bolts are NLA
ARP lists a # but it is for a LS1 dont buy it.
McCleod is getting a ton made for themselves, its a special bolt do NOT use some hardware type bolt youll regret it. They may have them in stock need to order some.
There was someone who posted up a week or so ago about thiers they made. Cant find it.
On the LT1 PP it may come with bolts hopefully, the GM LT1 bolts are NLA
ARP lists a # but it is for a LS1 dont buy it.
McCleod is getting a ton made for themselves, its a special bolt do NOT use some hardware type bolt youll regret it. They may have them in stock need to order some.
#22
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I'm doing mine this winter too, I tend to take my car apart at the beginning of November, I think I've had it in pieces every year for the last four years. One of the key issues we face is that we have a two piece rear main seal which means we need a special flywheel. So far I've seen centerforce, spec, ram and maybe mcleod offer a 153 tooth flywheel for an 11" clutch that will mount to an engine with a 2 piece rear main seal.
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It is my understanding that you can use your Factory Flywheel, your Factory Pressure Plate and your Factory Clutch Disk with the Mcleod Throwout Bearing Part Number 1400-22. I am waiting to hear back from Red at McLeod verifying this. I will qualify this and say this is for a swap in a an 87 Corvette using a T-56 with the LT-1 Bell Housing. The McLeod Throwout Bearing is adjustable. And from recollection is to be set with .100 clearance from the pressure plate fingers. From my previous conversation with him I recall him saying that this throwout bearing has set screws that lock it in place on the nose of the output shaft of the transmission.
Iformation from the McLeod website:
The 1400 series slip on bearing is intended to slip over your existing bearing retainer when your "A" dimension is greater than 3". These bearings are made of the finest hard anodized billet aluminum, along with quality elbow swivel fittings and high pressure stainless steel braided lines. These high quality components make the Mcleod slip on hydraulic throw out bearing extremely durable, and the best in the market today! These assemblies may be used to eliminate the need to fabricate complex clutch linkage when swapping transmissions.
Kit Includes: Internal Bearing/Slave cylinder assembly with (2) 11" stainless steel braided lines, (1) for bleeding (1) for input.
Note: Installation Instructions are listed under the pics & video tab listed below.
There is more on the web site! I did down load the install instructions and it spells out the process. It looks like it would work to convert any pull style to push style provided the diameter of the pressure plate fingers are the right diameter for the bearing and the trans collar is the diameter for the i.d. of the throwout bearing.
Last edited by 87bob; 06-04-2011 at 05:57 PM.
#23
Le Mans Master
I just wanted to add a little more knowledge to this thread. I've found another flywheel option which I've seen priced lower than the Centerforce or RAAm flywheels.
The Spec SC66s will go behind a two piece rear main seal and is designed for T56 conversions. The person I've been in contact with at Spec also indicated that it would work with a stock LT1 style clutch. There's also an aluminum version for those who want a lighter flywheel.
The Spec SC66s will go behind a two piece rear main seal and is designed for T56 conversions. The person I've been in contact with at Spec also indicated that it would work with a stock LT1 style clutch. There's also an aluminum version for those who want a lighter flywheel.
#24
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Guys I don't want to complain but I still haven't got what I need from this post. I understand the stock loaction of the shifter is to the left and rear of where the T-56 shifter comes up. I just don't know how much. So I'm still looking for someone who has done the swap to jump in.
#25
Le Mans Master
This thread seems to indicate the shifter position between a ZF6 and a T56 is really close, I wonder if there was a difference in the console for an '89 with a manual transmission compared to a 4+3 console. I'll be at a show this weekend with corvettes, I'll bring a tape measure and see if I can measure my buddies '89 out.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-searched.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-searched.html
#26
Racer
Member Since: Jun 2009
Location: Marlborough CT
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Guys I don't want to complain but I still haven't got what I need from this post. I understand the stock loaction of the shifter is to the left and rear of where the T-56 shifter comes up. I just don't know how much. So I'm still looking for someone who has done the swap to jump in.
#27
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
My decision.........
I decided to go ahead with the swap and cutout the trans tunnel yeasterday. Since the car is on a lift I am going to mock up the install. I plan to use a empty engine block with the T-56 mounted to it. This way I can get it in place and then measure where the orginal shifter came up and center the new shifter left to right and front to back in the opening. Anyone monitoring this thread wanting pictures please respond and let me know.
Bob
Bob
#29
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
UPDATE: Here are some pictures sorry about the blury one of the tools:
I have not cut the hole in the trans tunnel top for the T-56 shifter yet. Since I have the car on a lift I'll put a bare block in front of the T-56 and install them in the car. From that I can determine the proper placement of the hole for the factory location of the T-56 shifter stub. Then I can accurately measure for the offset. By doing it this way I hope to keep the patch pannel as small as possible. Also the bracket to join the "C" channel and the back of the trans does not come with holes in it. While I have everything mocked up I can mark them as well. Pull everything out drill and my holes. Updates to follow.
Last edited by 87bob; 06-20-2011 at 03:17 PM. Reason: adding pictures
#30
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Here is a photo of the block and tranny. 350 small block and T-56 trans.
Last edited by 87bob; 06-21-2011 at 07:51 AM. Reason: more info
#33
Le Mans Master
#35
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#36
Burning Brakes
I posted on one of the other T56 threads. I post it here too, beings me and 87bob are close as far as progress goes.
Here is my trans tunnel after I fiberglassed the 4+3 shifter hole.
I sprayed the fiberglass patch with some rubberized undercoating. Here looking up at the tunnel is where the shift tower came to when I trial fitted it.
Another picture of the same.
Here's a view from the driver's seat. I 'glassed over the entire 4+3 hole, then made my new cut (for the t56 tower) from below.
As I write this I've just bolted the T56 in and it looks good! I've got alot more to do (tomorrow).
Here is my trans tunnel after I fiberglassed the 4+3 shifter hole.
I sprayed the fiberglass patch with some rubberized undercoating. Here looking up at the tunnel is where the shift tower came to when I trial fitted it.
Another picture of the same.
Here's a view from the driver's seat. I 'glassed over the entire 4+3 hole, then made my new cut (for the t56 tower) from below.
As I write this I've just bolted the T56 in and it looks good! I've got alot more to do (tomorrow).
#37
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e103/87bob/0602sr_15_zsix_speed_transmissionshifter
From your pictures I assume you are going to re-locate your shifter to the center of the console. I'd like to keep mine in the stock location which is to the left of center. Can you tell me what the difference is from where it comes up now to the stock location? I had heard that is it one inch forward and one and a half inch to the right of the stock location. McLeod makes a shifter with many availible off sets. Here is a link.
http://www.mcleodracing.com/products...TKO%2A2057.mcl
Here is a photo of some of the offsets
http://www.mcleodracing.com/products...TKO%2A2057.mcl
Here is a photo of some of the offsets
#38
Burning Brakes
A little more work today on the project. When I came home a surprise was waiting for me.
$150 brand new Hurst, with ****, and short shaft, with the shipping from Zchris off fleabay. Email said he was out-of-office for another week, so it was a pleasant surprise not waiting.
Now for a trial fit:
I need to trim just a little at the base, 'cause the Hurst tower is so offset on the base plate.
Here it is with the console just sitting on it and the lever pulled back into 4th gear (so the console is actually 1/2" further back than it will installed).
Here it is with the shifter in 3rd.
So for measurements? Right now I don't think I want much further back (maybe just 1/2" for the bracket) and no more than 2" over towards the driver. I don't see where someone would offset the shifter back much at all, I think those numbers must come from T5 conversions, not T56. My Hurst can have the shifter bolted to either side so I have a 1/2" leeway.
My grubby paw..
back to work
$150 brand new Hurst, with ****, and short shaft, with the shipping from Zchris off fleabay. Email said he was out-of-office for another week, so it was a pleasant surprise not waiting.
Now for a trial fit:
I need to trim just a little at the base, 'cause the Hurst tower is so offset on the base plate.
Here it is with the console just sitting on it and the lever pulled back into 4th gear (so the console is actually 1/2" further back than it will installed).
Here it is with the shifter in 3rd.
So for measurements? Right now I don't think I want much further back (maybe just 1/2" for the bracket) and no more than 2" over towards the driver. I don't see where someone would offset the shifter back much at all, I think those numbers must come from T5 conversions, not T56. My Hurst can have the shifter bolted to either side so I have a 1/2" leeway.
My grubby paw..
back to work
#39
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
All I can say is wow. That does not look bad at all. I'm about ready to dry fit my T-56. Yours looks near perfect with out any real adjustments. Where did you buy your shifter and **** from?
#40
It looks like it is a little bit further back than my T5 conversion. Glad you guys are doing this one - this may be my next step one day.
Here is where the T5 came up.
Here is where the T5 came up.