Tom 35th anniversary

My block's goin in to the shop to check it out and tank. I'm sure its gonna need bored. (100,000 plus....unknown....mileage) Is it worth the extra cash to go 383 or just stay 350? If I go 383 is there any problems to keep the stock aluminum heads and intake for now? Any special parts needed besides the new rotating assembly? Thanks for any answers.

Tom

Pete K

In my opinion, it is woth 2x what they will charge you for a 383. Very nice street motor will almost no issues. In the case of a total rebuild like yours, a set of forged pistons and a cast crank should not add more than $400 or so (price difference of 350 build).

Cold_B

I agree. The price difference in a 383 and a 350 is almost nothing. Well worth it. Even if you put everything else stock back in, you will make more power, and have more potential for later on down the road. A 383 will run milder with a larger cam than a 350 will, so it gives you more potential there to.

chucks88

I'm in the throws of this now as well. Not only am I opting for the 383...I am going with the forged crank as it was only $200 more to get a forged crank over a cast crank.

cv67

Heck yes, go 383. Internally balance it so it looks stock, too
Port the 113's, and port the TPI as much as possible, youll love it.

JLeatherman

I'm building a forged crank 383 right now too. It's almost free horsepower to build the 383 over the 355, and the 383 (IMO) makes more power in the range that a mildly modded fuel system is capable of (idle-5500).

ODIVETTE

I did a low buck build and my stroker is awesome. Left the cam alone (wishing I didn't now), heads, TPI all stock. Just upped the compression and threw headers on it. Also, I had the kit balanced. I highly recommend it!

Muffin

No question the 383 is the way to go but it is not quite as easy to do as it is to say. Assuming you are doing the assembly work yourself, there are a big bunch of clerance issues that must be addressed in the building process. This build requires much closer attention to detail than a 350/355 build. Crank counterweight-piston, rod big end-block and rod big end-cam to name three. Go for it but slowly and with care and caution.

DF

Wow, what luck to find this thread today. Just found out that the insurance Co is most likely going to pay for an engine rebuild and I was wondering if I should go for the 383 treatment since most of the labour and some of the parts would be paid for anyhow.

Anything else to keep in mind when doing this? What all is required or recommended? Any websites that do a good job of explaining options for converting a stock L98? I have never really looked into this but since this option came up suddenly I want to do some research. I am sure there are some guys on the forum who have done a quality job of documenting the buildup.

Pete K

Run a search on this site. There will be more info than you will want to read. Aftermarket crank and special pistons and clearancing of the block, rod bolts and oil pan are the highlights. It is a very common swap.

danziger

I am almost done doing this exact plan. It was only a few hundred more than building a comparable 355. I'll be sure to post complete results with photos when done...

spinedoc

I put a 383 in my 96 after the LT4 blew up. It's awesome, and like the others say, not really that much more money for what you get. Mine was just dynoed last weekend and made 433hp at the wheels! I love it.

Timmy!

Definitely the way to go! The torque increase =

Tom 35th anniversary

So am I right in assuming there is some block clearance machining that must be done? I have found the rotating assembly in a number of places that advertise machining done on their end for clearances, and balanced.. They say wash down parts and install in your block. Can it be that simple? Never doing this before makes me a little leary.

Archaea

I'm in this market too...I decided on the 383. Check out these recent threads dealing with the L98 and the TPI intake and the 383 combination.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1507011

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1514487

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1475270

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/te...ack-383-a.html

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tp...-you-guys.html

Carpenter

Hi Tom,

Last year I blew up my ('95) LT1 (sort of on purpose ) to have reason to re-build. I spun a rod bearing.

I ended up choosing the complete 383 stroker kit (from ebay, of all places) because it was actually CHEAPER than going with machine shop rates to grind the crank and resize the rods!

I was very impressed with quality of the kit they sold me.

The 'machining' spoken of simply consists of grinding about 3/8" away from the block/pan flange (for one rod bolt clearance only) and carefully hammering out the same area of the pan. Not difficult at all. Just takes a bit of extra time to temp. install crank/rod/pistons and slowly spin over to check. Just make certain to clean/wash the block and parts before final assembly.

Good luck.

Pete K

You are correct. Block clearancing must be done. It is typically $75 or less to have a machine shop open up these areas. They have done it hundreds of times and know how much to remove, and where to remove it.
With that said, things do not always go as planned. It is the assemblers job to check each and every part that rotates for proper clearance. It is not uncommon to have to touch up a "guaranteeed to fit package".
Although the stroker builds are easier due to better quality aftermarket pieces, do not assume they will be perfect.

hardlight

After you get the block notched to clear the rods, double check it again on assembly to make sure it was enough and also check the rod to cam clearance. Its really tight in there.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...gine506004.jpg

Tom 35th anniversary

Thanks for all of the replies guys. As always the information is great, and you gave me the little push I needed to do what I wanted to do anyway!! Next I'm gonna rebuild my own 700r4....that should really be a blast!!!