Archaea

Alright guys.

here's the info from a shop I'm interested in using in Houston Texas called PrecisionEngine.com

www.precisionengine.com

He claims he can build me a 383 strocker for my 1990 vette using my aluminum 113' heads(I'd ship them out to him, he'd port them and install a new valve train as described below) He'd then ship me back a complete long block using my heads and his own block with the specs below. It would bolt up to my TPI intake. It would have a 1 year unlimited mile warranty.

He said I could expect about 350HP crank with this setup using my Stock TPI intake. He said the computer would run fine with it and I wouldn't need to change my fuel system. He said this should be a drop in job, and everything should work fine without any other modifications. What do you guys think about this deal?
I looked the shop up in the Better Business Bureau in Houston, he's rated satisfactory.

Looking at the specs below are there any other changes that should be made? Any part swap out recommendations? What do you think of the deal?



SPECIFICATION SHEET


Jonathan,

Thank you for contacting PrecisionEngine.com.

Please review the following quote and specifications to your custom-built 383/350HP SS performance longblock:

 GM 5.7 block bored, honed, decked and align honed
 Durabond cam bearings
 Performance roller camshaft: - (TRW –Speed Pro Camshaft)
o 224/232 @ .050
o .501 lift
o 112 lobe center
 Matching roller lifters and springs
 New sir steel rods 5.7”
 New cast steel 3.75” stroke
 Crankshaft micro-polished less than a 12 ra finish- (Eagle or Adept)
 Speedpro pistons with Molly rings
o 9.2 to 1 compression ratio
 Balanced rotating assembly
 New Melling timing set
 New high volume oil pump
 New gasket set
 New push rods
 New head bolts
 Customer’s aluminum cylinder heads will include the 2.02/1.60 valves
 120 lbs. springs
 3 angle seats
 Bronze guides
 Positive seals
 1.6 roller tip stamped rockers
 Ported intake runners


Total price: $ 2795.00 plus shipping (he said shipping would be about 200 bucks)

So I'd be out $50 or whatever it cost to ship my heads to Houston, then I'd get back in three weeks time a 383 longblock as shown above. I gotta tell you, this price seems good, and the amount of work on my end is comfortable

tarheelracer

Dang, my rebuild to stock specs by Jasper was $3500 plus instillation including a 3 year warranty. I haven't had a single problem since then, but dang, I could've had a 383 for $500 less...

Archaea

Oh and just for info he sells rebuilt motors. You can get a stock L98 rebuilt motor from this shop for 900 bucks + core + shipping.

http://www.precisionengine.com/g_engines_d_chevy.html

tarheelracer

Unbelievable, I got taken bad.

Muffin

He certanly doesn't make much money at those prces. I am in the mddle of a 383 project and have that much in parts,mostly GMPP, and machine work alone. Don't know about the roller tip rockers. I think the trend is to full rollers.

rangerphil

Here's my initial observations. You might want to do some more research on the choice of rods....the ones listed have a number of negative posts in some of the engine forums on the web. In addition, with the aluminum heads, I would shoot for a little higher CR to make a little more power. You can get away with 10-1 CR on a SBC running 91 octane with aluminum heads. The guys prices sure are cheap...do your homework before you take the plunge.

rklessdriver

I agree he isn't making much $$ on the build but he isn't going broke here either. The low price is IMO because of a cast crank and most likely cast/hyperutectic pistons. I can build (and sell) them all day long with the same (type of) parts for the $3K range.

Here is what I see about this build.
1. 224-232@.050 is a bit stout for a stock TPI set up. You really need a super ram (at least) with a cam this big.
2. Eagle SIR rods. There is absolutly NOTHING wrong them at the HP level your heads (even ported) and that cam will make.
3. Cast crank. See #2.
4. 9.2 compression. Very safe for a pump gas engine and a good call in todays world of shifty gas stations trying to turn a profit at every moment selling low grade gas and crazy *** additives.
5. 2.02/1.60 valves. Nope, the biggest the stock seats will take is 2.0/1.56. Its alot of labor to change out the seats in the heads and he isn't going to do it for a 3grand motor.
6. 1.6 stamped roller tip rockers. Do yourself a favor and upgrade to a set of Scorpions, Crane, Harland Sharps or just about anything else. 120lbs of seat pressure means the Pioneer Z-28 (.550 lift) single springs with about 350lbs of open pressure and they will eat a set of those cheap stamped rockers for lunch.
7. Ported intake runners?? Hope he knows what he is doing, as porting heads is serious business and most people hurt more than they help in this area of engine building. Also what about the exhaust runners, they arn't bad in those heads but they arn't perfect from the factory either?? They are gonna need work, Espc if he's working over the intake side.

Overall I'd say buy the short block for a few less $$. Get your heads done by a reputable porting shop (like CNC heads, Port Pros, Valley head service, ect, ect) a Super Ram and most of all a good tune. Enjoy 400+ Hp instead of 350.

Otherwise find a smaller cam something like 210-218@.050, 112-114 L/S put your stock heads (re-built properly of course) and TPI set up back on it and enjoy the TQ that runs out at 4000 rpm like you have now (only a lot more of it).
Will

Archaea

Thank you for your response


Alright Guys...I actually directed the vendor here and to the other thread I created on the board and asked him to read through this stuff. He got back to me a couple days later and said he didn't agree with everything he read(in the threads), but that he understood that perhaps he should make the compression higher, and the duration on the cam a bit shorter.

He said he wouldn't want to go to a 10.5.1 compression because he felt that was too high for a troublefree engine and someone (like me) who lacks knowledge required to keep an engine like that running optimally. Which I don't take as an insult. I think the guy is genuinely concerened about my exp. with his product, and wants to make sure I have an engine that is as reliable as it is fun.

The changes he said he was going to make after taking these recommendations into account were:

Change the compression to 10:1.
Use a CS1080R roller cam with a 210/215@50 110 lobe center and 470 lift. He said this cam should better compliment the intake and makes good power from 1500-5000RPM.

He said I could pay 200 extra and get 1.6 roller rockers instead of stamped tip.

He was already going to port the heads for me, but said if I wanted to send him the lower intake he would match port that for me as well for free and if I sent him the upper intake he would be able to maybe minimally help me out there because he said there isn't much to port on the upper intake.

The total price shipped with the roller tip rockers and other changes discussed above was going to be about $3200 shipped.


Do you guys feel these are appropriate changes?

redwing76

If it was me Id go with a local shop. A warranty is fine, but if you have to return the engine it could be pricey and be a lenghty wait.

I agree 10 to 1 is workable.
Why do you want a 383? GM sells a new 383.

Archaea

why do I want a 383?

I like the idea of the extra power and torque.

red-y

I would fine a local shop in KC.
There must be some good shops closer to you.

bacardioil

Port Pros in Tx. built my engine and could not be happier. Talk to Harold tell Gene told you to call.
portpros.com

rklessdriver

210/215@.050 is a good for your stock TPI set up. I know alot of folks want to run a little wider L/S than 110 but honestly its going to be fine and will pull like a freight train off idle. All in all his new choice of cams is a much better proposal for your engine.

The compression bump is good for power but he is correct about wanting to give you a little saftey net. 10.1 will be fine as long as you run 92octane all the time.

Please do spend the extra $200 and buy a real set of rockers. I have had nothing but bad luck with MOST of the roller tip ones. The Comp Cams ones I have used work well but cost all most as much as a set of real rockers.

At least he is willing to listen to suggestions, I hope the guy does a good job on your engine.
Will

Archaea

I went ahead and ordered the setup...some of the guys on the TPI forum at third gen said that I should do a cam between these two specs with the setup. Ken said he is open to further consideration, but feels after reading the forum threads I linked him to that the second cam is a better choice for the TPI intake. He says the second cam makes good solid power to 5,000 RPM which is all I would need with the TPI setup.....Do you guys feel that I should find the middle ground or stay with the second cam?

First cam
o 224/232 @ .050
o .501 lift
o 112 lobe center

Second cam
o 210/215 @ .050
o .470 lift
o 110 lobe center

JimMel

no comment on the cam, but one thing I don't see in the spec list is any mention of if it's an internal or external balanced assembly, and if the correct harmonic balancer and flexplate is included.

Archaea

He specifically said internally balanced.

I'm not sure on the flexplate - not sure what you are referring to?

rklessdriver

I would stay with the second cam since you have no specs for "cam 3" yet other than "it should" that split the difference.
I understand you want the most power possible out of this set up, but there are other places to look for power that will give you more gain than upping the dur @.050 a few degrees and lift a few thousands on a cam that is already more than sufficient given your choice of induction. No matter what cam you put in it the intake is going to start dropping power like a sinking ship above 4500rpm on a 383 inch engine so you better make all that you can up to that point.
Cam number 2 gives you this, plus a little margin of "over rev" to 5000rpm, smooth idle, and is easy on the valve train. Splitting the difference MAY give you some extra power in the "over rev range" (ie 4500-5000rpm) but you MAY give some up on the bottom. Its all depending how how much bigger you go as to how much give up.
Will

JimMel

internal is good
The flexplate (or flywheel on a stick) is what connects the engine to the trans. You'll be able to use your stock one. Inspect it close for any cracking around the bolt holes, and get new bolts to bolt it to the flywheel, ARP's or real GM ones, they come with a locking compound applied so they don't come loose.

Archaea

reading this article makes me wonder if I shouldn't skip the 1.6 rockers? It might be too late, but look near the bottom,

My cam will only make power to 5000 RPM, so maybe I want a smaller ratio rather than the 1.6 ratio?

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/0204vet...er_arms_ratio/

JackDidley

The first cam will require a custom chip and even though the second is smaller I would never use that motor without a tuned chip. Its the only way to get the most out of that motor.