help with PKE remote
11-28-2011, 07:37 PM
#22
Le Mans Master
The chimes has nothing to do with the PKE. They do however sit next to each other with a piece of Velcro tape. You need to get the chimes out to get to the PKE receiver. I had a chrime problem with my car also when I got it. I soldered the two big lugs on the printed circuit board. Others have had the same experience as I have with success also. So what I am saying is you have a good shot in repairing it.
BTW- plan on your car being apart for a while to complete all this work whatever you decide.
BTW- plan on your car being apart for a while to complete all this work whatever you decide.
Last edited by pcolt94; 11-29-2011 at 04:08 PM.
11-28-2011, 07:37 PM
#23
In best buys defense, I took a Cobalt with less then 300 miles to Quality for an alarm.
It was sitting in the shop next to a new Porsche. They still got grease on my door panel and
put the alarm light in the wrong spot.
I was so freaking pissed, sure was just a Cobalt, but it was the first new car I had ever owned.
It was sitting in the shop next to a new Porsche. They still got grease on my door panel and
put the alarm light in the wrong spot.
I was so freaking pissed, sure was just a Cobalt, but it was the first new car I had ever owned.
11-29-2011, 02:44 PM
#24
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the way i am looking at it is, first off I would rather have an alarm that I have to push a button to open the door( mainly because I do not want to have to change batteries on my remote frequently as most state they have to do with the PKE). Second, for me to repair the PKE I will have to remove the top of the dash and swap the PKE, and yes i know I might be able to repair mine, but if I cannot I will need a replacement and I only want to pull the dash apart once. The used PKE will cost me $150. The new keyless entry will cost me $125 installed. On top of that I can sell my brand new PKE Fob on e-bay for about the price of the keyless system that will have two FOB....
11-29-2011, 03:17 PM
#25
Race Director
I've changed the battery in my FOB once in 6 years, and that was about 2 years ago.
Still works like new.
I don't drive my car every day though, so the keys and FOB are not in constant daily movement. I am sure that has something to do with it.
Car is not a garage queen either though, as I have added approx. 75k miles during that 6 year period.
11-30-2011, 11:56 AM
#26
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I appreciate the feedback, but at this point the easy route is the new keyless system. 125 dollars and 3 hours and it is done, plus I end up with two new remotes. To repair my original system, who really knows..... This one issue is not worth it to me, the aftermarket will do everything i really want...
12-03-2011, 10:00 PM
#28
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Okay i went with the best buy. Viper unit. Best buy did the install. This went okay, not perfect, they took the door panel part way arart an put the wires back wrong and they were catching the window mechanism, took me 2 minutes to fix it. Other than that the keyless system works great! Only 155 including tax and install. That was the price for the used PKE reciever alone not including install, plus i will sell my pke fob which is brand new!!!
12-04-2011, 09:37 PM
#31
Le Mans Master
Okay i went with the best buy. Viper unit. Best buy did the install. This went okay, not perfect, they took the door panel part way arart an put the wires back wrong and they were catching the window mechanism, took me 2 minutes to fix it. Other than that the keyless system works great! Only 155 including tax and install. That was the price for the used PKE reciever alone not including install, plus i will sell my pke fob which is brand new!!!
Does the original car security system still function or does it take the place of it.
What parts of the car did they have to take apart to make the electrical connections?
Will it open the rear hatch also. Don't forget, the hatch circuit went to the original PKE receiver where there is a relay for it.
12-05-2011, 02:03 PM
#32
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the original alarm still works, all I had installed was a keyles entry, I chose not to have the hatch connected just because of the model of keyless entry I chose. all they did was remove the driver's door panel and the under dash knee kick.
08-02-2012, 01:31 PM
#33
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More PKE questions
I very recently purchased my first vette, a 1994 C4 coupe, LT1.
It came without remotes, so I purchased one (GM Part number 88960923). It came in the original GM unopened package. Following the instructions for programming, I am unable to get the PKE light in the DIC to illuminate. I've checked #26,40 and 42 fuses and they are good. All switches and buttons work as they are intended. On complete checks, every fuse in the dash fuse block is good; each one was removed and checked with a small 6 volt test light. As stated, the power door locks work on both doors, the drivers door swith for the rear hatch works, the power mirror switch works, the security system sets and works, the radio works, everything is operational. A new battery was purchased for the remote and installed per the manual. Nothing causes the PKE light to illuminate in the DIC. Any suggestions not already noted in this thread would be greatly appreciated! All I can say is:"HELP!" Oh yea! I've noticed reference to a chime in the car. I've never heard one and the manual doesn't mention one either. Is there one and is it a secret, or an I just a bit crazy?
It came without remotes, so I purchased one (GM Part number 88960923). It came in the original GM unopened package. Following the instructions for programming, I am unable to get the PKE light in the DIC to illuminate. I've checked #26,40 and 42 fuses and they are good. All switches and buttons work as they are intended. On complete checks, every fuse in the dash fuse block is good; each one was removed and checked with a small 6 volt test light. As stated, the power door locks work on both doors, the drivers door swith for the rear hatch works, the power mirror switch works, the security system sets and works, the radio works, everything is operational. A new battery was purchased for the remote and installed per the manual. Nothing causes the PKE light to illuminate in the DIC. Any suggestions not already noted in this thread would be greatly appreciated! All I can say is:"HELP!" Oh yea! I've noticed reference to a chime in the car. I've never heard one and the manual doesn't mention one either. Is there one and is it a secret, or an I just a bit crazy?
Last edited by j4royer; 08-02-2012 at 01:33 PM. Reason: Forgot a note.
08-02-2012, 02:54 PM
#34
Melting Slicks
I very recently purchased my first vette, a 1994 C4 coupe, LT1.
It came without remotes, so I purchased one (GM Part number 88960923). It came in the original GM unopened package. Following the instructions for programming, I am unable to get the PKE light in the DIC to illuminate. I've checked #26,40 and 42 fuses and they are good. All switches and buttons work as they are intended. On complete checks, every fuse in the dash fuse block is good; each one was removed and checked with a small 6 volt test light. As stated, the power door locks work on both doors, the drivers door swith for the rear hatch works, the power mirror switch works, the security system sets and works, the radio works, everything is operational. A new battery was purchased for the remote and installed per the manual. Nothing causes the PKE light to illuminate in the DIC. Any suggestions not already noted in this thread would be greatly appreciated! All I can say is:"HELP!" Oh yea! I've noticed reference to a chime in the car. I've never heard one and the manual doesn't mention one either. Is there one and is it a secret, or an I just a bit crazy?
It came without remotes, so I purchased one (GM Part number 88960923). It came in the original GM unopened package. Following the instructions for programming, I am unable to get the PKE light in the DIC to illuminate. I've checked #26,40 and 42 fuses and they are good. All switches and buttons work as they are intended. On complete checks, every fuse in the dash fuse block is good; each one was removed and checked with a small 6 volt test light. As stated, the power door locks work on both doors, the drivers door swith for the rear hatch works, the power mirror switch works, the security system sets and works, the radio works, everything is operational. A new battery was purchased for the remote and installed per the manual. Nothing causes the PKE light to illuminate in the DIC. Any suggestions not already noted in this thread would be greatly appreciated! All I can say is:"HELP!" Oh yea! I've noticed reference to a chime in the car. I've never heard one and the manual doesn't mention one either. Is there one and is it a secret, or an I just a bit crazy?
08-02-2012, 03:47 PM
#35
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to Red Dwarf
Tried the whole thing as you suggested....guess I'm gonna have to go with the Hmmmmmm part. (No chime, no ring-a-ding) 1- I live without it or 2- I buy a new chime module. Would this have anything to do with not being able to program the PKE? Could these both be on a single Q circuit?
08-02-2012, 04:46 PM
#36
Melting Slicks
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In order to place the PKE module in program mode or pull codes,
the switch that closes when the ignition key is in the Off, Lock
or Accessories position must work.
***If your chime module works*** an indication the key in ignition
switch works is if you leave the ignition key in the Off, Lock or ACC position and open the drivers door, the chime module should sound.
If no chime the key in ignition switch is not working.
You can also place the PKE module in diagnostic mode.
Insert ignition key in key cylinder. Ground pin 8 of the
diagnostic connector. The PKE module should flash
trouble codes and diagnostic condition codes by using the
Passive Key-less Entry Lamp.
DTC 12 Receiver memory bad.
DTC 13 Transmitter not in range.
DTC 14 Not valid transmitter received.
DTC 15 Valid transmitter received.
DTC 16 Passenger door button depressed.
DTC 17 Hatch button depressed.
Here's a thread where the original poster did not want to
fix a bad switch but wanted to program a key fob on his 95.
He grounded a Light Green wire from the switch at the wire harness located at the middle of the steering column to simulate a working key sensing switch. With the wire grounded, he was able to place the
PKE module in programming mode.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...r-problem.html
08-03-2012, 01:10 PM
#37
Instructor
A bad chime module will have no effect on the PKE module.
In order to place the PKE module in program mode or pull codes,
the switch that closes when the ignition key is in the Off, Lock
or Accessories position must work.
***If your chime module works*** an indication the key in ignition
switch works is if you leave the ignition key in the Off, Lock or ACC position and open the drivers door, the chime module should sound.
If no chime the key in ignition switch is not working.
You can also place the PKE module in diagnostic mode.
Insert ignition key in key cylinder. Ground pin 8 of the
diagnostic connector. The PKE module should flash
trouble codes and diagnostic condition codes by using the
Passive Key-less Entry Lamp.
DTC 12 Receiver memory bad.
DTC 13 Transmitter not in range.
DTC 14 Not valid transmitter received.
DTC 15 Valid transmitter received.
DTC 16 Passenger door button depressed.
DTC 17 Hatch button depressed.
Here's a thread where the original poster did not want to
fix a bad switch but wanted to program a key fob on his 95.
He grounded a Light Green wire from the switch at the wire harness located at the middle of the steering column to simulate a working key sensing switch. With the wire grounded, he was able to place the
PKE module in programming mode.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...r-problem.html
In order to place the PKE module in program mode or pull codes,
the switch that closes when the ignition key is in the Off, Lock
or Accessories position must work.
***If your chime module works*** an indication the key in ignition
switch works is if you leave the ignition key in the Off, Lock or ACC position and open the drivers door, the chime module should sound.
If no chime the key in ignition switch is not working.
You can also place the PKE module in diagnostic mode.
Insert ignition key in key cylinder. Ground pin 8 of the
diagnostic connector. The PKE module should flash
trouble codes and diagnostic condition codes by using the
Passive Key-less Entry Lamp.
DTC 12 Receiver memory bad.
DTC 13 Transmitter not in range.
DTC 14 Not valid transmitter received.
DTC 15 Valid transmitter received.
DTC 16 Passenger door button depressed.
DTC 17 Hatch button depressed.
Here's a thread where the original poster did not want to
fix a bad switch but wanted to program a key fob on his 95.
He grounded a Light Green wire from the switch at the wire harness located at the middle of the steering column to simulate a working key sensing switch. With the wire grounded, he was able to place the
PKE module in programming mode.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...r-problem.html
