StingrayLust

I'm just putting my redone manual pedals back in place of my single automatic brake pedal and noticed a few things.

I used the same bracket for the dual pedals that I was using for my automatic previously. With the dual pedal setup, the clutch pedal sits about 1/2"-3/4" further forward when both are in contact with the rubber bumper. Is this normal? Granted I do not currently have my manual transmission in the car to hook up to my clutch pedal rods, so maybe it doesn't matter yet.

Secondly, I recently replaced my brake booster while doing all of this and noticed that the connecting rod on the end of it has about only a 1/4" of threaded material. I noticed that once I connected my rod to the pedal arm that the pedal no longer quite made it to the rubber bumper stop. Should I be concerned? I'm pretty sure that my previous booster, that went bad, allowed the brake arm to touch the rubber pad. The end of my booster rod looks like the one in this picture:


So with the brake arm not coming into contact with the rubber stop because of the booster rod being a bit short on the threading, my clutch pedal sits maybe a good 1" forward of the brake pedal.

I can get pictures tomorrow.

Does anyone have a good picture of their brake booster rod threaded end that connects to the brake arm so I can compare to mine?

StingrayLust

TTT. Anyone else?

Alan seems to think they were of different height, but then found a thread where they were the same height:

#1 different
#2 different
#3 same
#4 different
#5 different

DUB

What did you do with your old booster????

Is the new booster just like the old one...because there are 2 designs of boosters for 1968 to 1982 Corvettes.

The pedal heights are different....from what I have seen over the years.

And..knowing that you went in with a new pedals due to going to a manual transmission....they could be off slightly. I would not worry about it myself.

Clutch pedal should not change if it is adjusted correctly and all return springs are installed. The clutch pedal should contact the rubber bumper.

DUB

StingrayLust

One would think I would have learned my lesson now about "new/refurb'd" parts from places like NAPA.

When I first started fixing my car in 2010 I didn't know the mess I was getting into with replacement parts. So I saw my booster was rusty and did just what any other uninformed person would do, went to NAPA and got a replacement. Did I even know if my original booster was bad? No, the car wasn't drivable at the time.

So fast forward somewhat to last fall 2013 when my first NAPA booster went bad. I figured well I'll just fix it come Spring since the snow will be flying soon anyways. So now I'm doing my auto-manual clutch pedal changeover and in the process getting a second warranty replacement booster from NAPA.

I never checked the latest warranty replacement with my first NAPA part to see if there were any rod differences, I just didn't think about it or know to check.

With my single brake pedal I guess height didn't really matter and I don't recall checking to see if it actually hit the rubber stop. I just remember there seeming to be more threads on the booster rod end that I could adjust the height of the pedal. With my newest replacement there are very few threads at the end, certainly not much for adjustment. Now with my clutch pedal in there as well, I'm really noticing how much further back the brake pedal is than the clutch.

As I mentioned originally, I do NOT currently have a manual transmission in the car yet, will happen later this summer. So when I'm comparing pedal height, I'm comparing both pedals against their rubber stop bumpers. Now I connect my brake pedal to the booster and the rod isn't long enough to have the pedal hit the rubber stop. That's magnifying the look of how much more forward the clutch pedal is versus the brake.

I'm sure the brake pedal will work just fine, the rod or the clevis is a bit short so I don't get full brake height but the functionality should be fine.

I guess I can just go forward with the install knowing that the pedals with be at different heights off the floor.

And as I think I said earlier, after I had just got done refurbishing the whole thing, I noticed that when both were against the rubber stops that the pedals didn't even line up perfect then as the brake sat maybe 1/2" further back.

StingrayLust

Does anyone know the differences between the 2 designs? I know when I look at Ecklers the later years used the yellow chromate or whatever that color is vs the black. Is there more to it than just the coloring? I'm guessing so but would like to know.

#1 - '68-'76:



#2 - '77-'82:

DUB

The differences are.

The 68-76 boosters have an adjustable rod coming out of the center of it for the master cylinder...AND MORE IMPORTANTLY...the surface where the master cylinder mounts to the booster is NOT RECESSED. You can see where the master cylinder and booster contact CLEARLY. The 77-82 boosters DO NOT HAVE an adjustable rod for the master cylinder...and more IMPORTANTLY...the area where the master cylinder contacts the booster IS RECESSED..and you can not CLEARLY see the contact point where the master cylinder touches the booster.

The outer halves of the booster are also tooled completely different. I have found that even though a later design booster can be installed on an older Corvette...the problem is if the engine has the oil dipstick on the driver side of the engine. If you use the later design booster...you will have to tweak the hell out of the oil dipstick tube so you can even check your oil.

It is hard to tell by these photo's...but I believe they a re the same other than the coating. I KNOW for a fact that no one is stamping out the early design pouter half of the booster...because I have called the booster manufacturer and they are not concerned about it.

There are two designs of boosters and they are clearly different...make NO MISTAKE about it.

DUB