75 gas tank removal question
#1
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75 gas tank removal question
My bladder has collapsed I can only hold 11 gallons.
I purchased another 75 tank with bladder in tact from another forum member (for a great price) and will be swapping soon. I have searched the posts and dont see anything about dropping the tail pipes, only the spare. Idealy, I would like to get the tank out without dropping the pipes. I am hoping I can slip it sideways enough to get it down and out.
Last August I had a 2.5'' custom system made and it is welded thruout. Mufflers welded to the pipes and to the hangers. I would have to cut the tailpipes to get them out of the way, then have welded back on when tank installed.
Can the tank be removed without moving the pipes
Also...this new old tank has been in dry storage removed from the car for the last 15 years and is clean and complete. Should I remove the bladder before installing. .. ..or, if I cant drop the tank without messin with the pipes should I just remove the bladder from my original tank. If this is the case I will be putting this new old tank for sale for cheap.
any advise will be much appreciated.
btw I am hoping to get the build sheet
I purchased another 75 tank with bladder in tact from another forum member (for a great price) and will be swapping soon. I have searched the posts and dont see anything about dropping the tail pipes, only the spare. Idealy, I would like to get the tank out without dropping the pipes. I am hoping I can slip it sideways enough to get it down and out.
Last August I had a 2.5'' custom system made and it is welded thruout. Mufflers welded to the pipes and to the hangers. I would have to cut the tailpipes to get them out of the way, then have welded back on when tank installed.
Can the tank be removed without moving the pipes
Also...this new old tank has been in dry storage removed from the car for the last 15 years and is clean and complete. Should I remove the bladder before installing. .. ..or, if I cant drop the tank without messin with the pipes should I just remove the bladder from my original tank. If this is the case I will be putting this new old tank for sale for cheap.
any advise will be much appreciated.
btw I am hoping to get the build sheet
#2
Race Director
You can loosen them at all the hangers and the manifold and let them hang, that's usually enough depending on how they were bent around the tranny.
My favorite is to just cut them behind the tranny crossmember with a sawzall and use these ss sleeves, pipes just butt together. There will be other times when you will want to drop the exhaust, front or back.
Your call on removing the bladder, I do. If so, save and cut into strips for the tank supports. You have to drop the tank either way. To make it easier, just cut the old hoses and replace with new.
The built sheet should be on top of the tank shroud, but it's a good time to remove it and clean and paint the area.
My favorite is to just cut them behind the tranny crossmember with a sawzall and use these ss sleeves, pipes just butt together. There will be other times when you will want to drop the exhaust, front or back.
Your call on removing the bladder, I do. If so, save and cut into strips for the tank supports. You have to drop the tank either way. To make it easier, just cut the old hoses and replace with new.
The built sheet should be on top of the tank shroud, but it's a good time to remove it and clean and paint the area.
#3
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so the answer is no the tank cant be dropped without moving the pipes out of the way. rats...
so you think I should remove the bladder as well on the replacement. I aggree. I would hate to go thru all this only to have the same thing happen again down the road. The clamps are a good idea. I will still have to have the rear hangers rewelded. what do these ss clamps run?$12-15 each? I know the guys at the shop would reweld em up for nc
so you think I should remove the bladder as well on the replacement. I aggree. I would hate to go thru all this only to have the same thing happen again down the road. The clamps are a good idea. I will still have to have the rear hangers rewelded. what do these ss clamps run?$12-15 each? I know the guys at the shop would reweld em up for nc
#4
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Just so you know, the bladder is there for your protection in the event of a collision involving the gas tank. The bladder's job is to help prevent fuel spillage and potential fire in the event of an accident. These (the bladder making them a fuel cell) are safer than normal gas tanks. I believe it was a Federal mandate that these be installed in certain Vettes.
A little more on the subject:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...upgrade-2.html
A little more on the subject:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...upgrade-2.html
Last edited by Jud Chapin; 11-29-2011 at 08:11 AM.
#6
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thanks Jud, that was great info with pics. Really lets see what I'm getting into.
ya know that was the main reason I bought the tank that had a good bladder in it. I know they put the bladder in there for safety reasons and it was a gov mandate. I remember all those Pinto's bursting into flames in rearend collisions in the 70's. I do want to keep the bladder. I will use the new old tank.
Ganey, I will try just removing the mufflers and see how it lines up, still going to have to cut them though, might as well just make 1 cut each for each pipe to give me the room required.
ya know that was the main reason I bought the tank that had a good bladder in it. I know they put the bladder in there for safety reasons and it was a gov mandate. I remember all those Pinto's bursting into flames in rearend collisions in the 70's. I do want to keep the bladder. I will use the new old tank.
Ganey, I will try just removing the mufflers and see how it lines up, still going to have to cut them though, might as well just make 1 cut each for each pipe to give me the room required.
#7
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so the answer is no the tank cant be dropped without moving the pipes out of the way. rats...
so you think I should remove the bladder as well on the replacement. I aggree. I would hate to go thru all this only to have the same thing happen again down the road. The clamps are a good idea. I will still have to have the rear hangers rewelded. what do these ss clamps run?$12-15 each? I know the guys at the shop would reweld em up for nc
so you think I should remove the bladder as well on the replacement. I aggree. I would hate to go thru all this only to have the same thing happen again down the road. The clamps are a good idea. I will still have to have the rear hangers rewelded. what do these ss clamps run?$12-15 each? I know the guys at the shop would reweld em up for nc
#9
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yea they welded em to the hangers, it was like that when I picked up the car...too late at that point. It wasnt discussed or even thought about by me. I suppose I could unbolt the stock hangers from the frame but looks like a tight fit to get a wrench up there
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#12
Burning Brakes
You can loosen them at all the hangers and the manifold and let them hang, that's usually enough depending on how they were bent around the tranny.
My favorite is to just cut them behind the tranny crossmember with a sawzall and use these ss sleeves, pipes just butt together. There will be other times when you will want to drop the exhaust, front or back.
Your call on removing the bladder, I do. If so, save and cut into strips for the tank supports. You have to drop the tank either way. To make it easier, just cut the old hoses and replace with new.
The built sheet should be on top of the tank shroud, but it's a good time to remove it and clean and paint the area.
My favorite is to just cut them behind the tranny crossmember with a sawzall and use these ss sleeves, pipes just butt together. There will be other times when you will want to drop the exhaust, front or back.
Your call on removing the bladder, I do. If so, save and cut into strips for the tank supports. You have to drop the tank either way. To make it easier, just cut the old hoses and replace with new.
The built sheet should be on top of the tank shroud, but it's a good time to remove it and clean and paint the area.
#13
Those band clamps are bolt on, no welding. It's really a shame you have a one piece exhaust pipe. I'd cut it in front of the cross member, so that the bracket on the crossmember supports the exhaust pipe instead of the band clamp holding it.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thanks--that was my next question where to cut the pipe. Yep, is it one long pipe. I'll order those clamps.
#16
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I always cut them just to the rear pf the tranny xmember. Plenty of room there. Mark the pipe on each side of the cut to keep the orientation.
When needed, you drop each side or both completely and for reinstalling you loosely hang the pipe with the two hangers at the muffler and attach the clamp last.
To prevent any leaks, wrap the joint a couple times with 2oz fiberglass mat under the clamp and then tighten. They won't leak this way. Do not install with the bitumen goop that comes with them.
When needed, you drop each side or both completely and for reinstalling you loosely hang the pipe with the two hangers at the muffler and attach the clamp last.
To prevent any leaks, wrap the joint a couple times with 2oz fiberglass mat under the clamp and then tighten. They won't leak this way. Do not install with the bitumen goop that comes with them.
#17
Burning Brakes
I always cut them just to the rear pf the tranny xmember. Plenty of room there. Mark the pipe on each side of the cut to keep the orientation.
When needed, you drop each side or both completely and for reinstalling you loosely hang the pipe with the two hangers at the muffler and attach the clamp last.
To prevent any leaks, wrap the joint a couple times with 2oz fiberglass mat under the clamp and then tighten. They won't leak this way. Do not install with the bitumen goop that comes with them.
When needed, you drop each side or both completely and for reinstalling you loosely hang the pipe with the two hangers at the muffler and attach the clamp last.
To prevent any leaks, wrap the joint a couple times with 2oz fiberglass mat under the clamp and then tighten. They won't leak this way. Do not install with the bitumen goop that comes with them.
#18
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I havent started this project yet but I will get it going after the holidaze...there is just been too much going on. I can see that the mufflers will have to come down to remove the tank. The orientation marks for cutting the pipes are a good tip thanks
#19
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It must take you a looooong time to pee! I'd bet my bladder woudn't even hold a quart!!!
I know, absolutely zero constructive info here on this post, but, c'mon, how was I supposed to resist that? I can't believe nobody made that joke before I did!
Scott
I know, absolutely zero constructive info here on this post, but, c'mon, how was I supposed to resist that? I can't believe nobody made that joke before I did!
Scott