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Object on fuel line before carb?

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Old 09-12-2011, 06:36 PM
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MotorHead
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Faster Rat
Not saying that at all. Rubber fuels hoses with worm clamps on top of the engine, glass and plastic filters, none of these Bubba ideas are acceptable. If you are going to change what the factory did, do it better and make it safe.

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Old 09-12-2011, 07:41 PM
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gcusmano74
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You can buy a high pressure gasoline hose that is rated for fuel injection (40 -50 psi) at a good industrial hose house. (Around me, that's Industrial Rubber in Elizabeth, NJ 908-351-1550 ) You need to be really careful with any gasoline. Really careful.
Old 09-12-2011, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Faster Rat
Not saying that at all. Rubber fuels hoses with worm clamps on top of the engine, glass and plastic filters, none of these Bubba ideas are acceptable. If you are going to change what the factory did, do it better and make it safe.
I knew a real vette owner would appear and call everybody else "bubba" thanks. I probably wont drive mine anymore because im afraid you will ride into town up and really show me up!
Old 09-12-2011, 09:11 PM
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The problem with the braided stuff is that the ss braids just cover rubber hose. If that rubber hose starts to fail ( maybe because of the new ethanol) you won't see it under all that ss braid. The problem with using race style hose is that the race guys know to replace it often. Its not really made for the many miles of a driver. If you use that stuff just be sure to inspect it often. I used very expensive aeroquip socketless hose and connections on my last project. I was VERY surprised to see fine hair cracks in the outer hose after just two seasons. Take whatever risk you feel comfortable with your fuel supply but the truth is that hard plumbed metal line is best in almost all applications where safety is priority.....jmo.
Old 09-12-2011, 10:04 PM
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Faster Rat
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Originally Posted by Tim H
I knew a real vette owner would appear and call everybody else "bubba" thanks. I probably wont drive mine anymore because im afraid you will ride into town up and really show me up!

I have no idea how you came up with this from what I posted. Sorry, but I was not directing any of my comments to you personally.
Old 09-12-2011, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Faster Rat
Not saying that at all. Rubber fuels hoses with worm clamps on top of the engine, glass and plastic filters, none of these Bubba ideas are acceptable. If you are going to change what the factory did, do it better and make it safe.
I have braided synthetic inner fuel lines with AN fittings. My race bikes all had the same thing and they were alcohol injected. But I agree on plain rubber it has no place sitting atop anything that can cause ignition....
Old 09-12-2011, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by boltnut
The problem with the braided stuff is that the ss braids just cover rubber hose. If that rubber hose starts to fail ( maybe because of the new ethanol) you won't see it under all that ss braid. The problem with using race style hose is that the race guys know to replace it often. Its not really made for the many miles of a driver. If you use that stuff just be sure to inspect it often. I used very expensive aeroquip socketless hose and connections on my last project. I was VERY surprised to see fine hair cracks in the outer hose after just two seasons. Take whatever risk you feel comfortable with your fuel supply but the truth is that hard plumbed metal line is best in almost all applications where safety is priority.....jmo.
Top quality braided line is NOT a covered rubber hose at all, the braid is impregnated into the inner liner. And...the top makers all make a synthetic inner sleeve that is not rubber at all, and is impermeable to ethanol and other additives that rubber succombs to, it has been around for a long time. Racers also replace a ton of other parts all the time that on a driver would last forever, don't mistake the replacing of parts for inferiority, they run the best they can get on just about everything. And trust me not all replace fuel lines all that often most times several seasons are on those braided lines. Be Good....

Last edited by 81pilot; 09-12-2011 at 11:00 PM.
Old 09-12-2011, 11:03 PM
  #29  
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Holley, Edelbrock and the other major hitters sell Carb to hose/pump to hose fittings. When the proper rated hose and clamps are installed correctly there is nothing wrong, unsafe or dangerous with this type of installation.
Old 09-13-2011, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Tim H
hard to run a metal line to a Holley chrome fuel line.
No wait I see you shouldn't run a $15 chrome fuel line, you have to spend $100 or its not acceptable?
Here is how to connect a $15 chrome fuel line to a hard line from the filter/pump:
Old 09-13-2011, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by PeteZO6
Here is how to connect a $15 chrome fuel line to a hard line from the filter/pump:
PeteZO6..... it looks like your upper rad hose could be swollen ?
Old 09-13-2011, 04:53 AM
  #32  
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Just a random posting off the Internet.

"I finally got through on tech support at Russell (Edelbrock) today, and spoke to a helpful tech. He said they may last as few as 3-5 years with the seasonal cycles of racing and sitting for months. He recommended trying their new Pro Classic Black hoses, which are a black nylon braid but use the same AN fittings as stainless but for less money, and they have been selling it for 4 years and have not heard of a failure yet, or their Pro Race series which has 1 more barrier in it (but is more expensive)."

I would not put a race style hose....or any rubber hose near my heat sources and just drive off into the sunset without looking back. I'd be checking them a few times a season. Jmo

I heard of racers pulling cars out of storage and finding the hoses went from ok last season to leaking like a sieve the next.
Old 09-13-2011, 07:12 AM
  #33  
Tim H
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Originally Posted by boltnut
PeteZO6..... it looks like your upper rad hose could be swollen ?
Hard to hook up like that when the holley fuel line has a barb on the end of it?
4 inches of rubber line and 4 worm clamps don't hurt anything.
Old 09-13-2011, 07:24 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Tim H
Hard to hook up like that when the holley fuel line has a barb on the end of it?
4 inches of rubber line and 4 worm clamps don't hurt anything.
Just cut off the barb.....install a flare nut and re-flare....

FYI. Mine is exactly as you describe right now, but I am installing a hard line and filter this fall when I have the intake off for a swap to the rpm airgap.
Old 09-13-2011, 07:32 AM
  #35  
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Here is a nice, easy, cheap way of doing it using brake tube with 45° flares. Filters with an fittings are also readily available and easy to flare the tube to fit (37°).



Here is the link to the thread.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ol-review.html

There is some very capable flex hose out there, but I don't see the need for for the expense of the hose and an fittings.
Modern fi engines all use a braided flex from to frame to engine as the pump is in the tank and fuel runs a much higher pressure. I have a truck that has a 15+ year oem crimped hose assembly with no leaks.
Old 09-14-2011, 09:01 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
If you have an in-line electric pump, you will need a flex hose somewhere between the pump and the engine. Just make sure it isn't near the engine (put it just after the pump on the frame rail). Pressurized fuel spraying on your exhaust manifold, etc. is not good for your car or for you. Use a good quality fuel line with braided metal jacket. And check it every now and then for any wear/tear or damage.
On my 66 big block, I had the in line electric fuel pump on the frame rail under the gas tank. No rubber lines near the engine, or the exhaust system.
Old 09-14-2011, 10:31 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Faster Rat
Not saying that at all. Rubber fuels hoses with worm clamps on top of the engine, glass and plastic filters, none of these Bubba ideas are acceptable. If you are going to change what the factory did, do it better and make it safe.
It doesn't take much time or effort to go have a steel fuel line fabricated for your specific configuration. This was the first thing I did after installing my Holley. Safety and "Peace of Mind". If I were to use anything else it would be placed away from the exhaust/headers or away from the top of the engine. I'm sure there are some acceptable alternatives.

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Old 09-14-2011, 10:33 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by PeteZO6
Here is how to connect a $15 chrome fuel line to a hard line from the filter/pump:
Very nice ride Pete and a good configuration for the fuel line and filter.
Old 09-14-2011, 11:04 AM
  #39  
BTGRN75
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Whats wrong with using just the carb. filter? My 36 yr.old car hasn't given me problems. I plan on just replacing it when I rebuild my carb. shortly. Do the moded engines need less restriction? Just askin.

Last edited by BTGRN75; 09-14-2011 at 11:06 AM.
Old 09-14-2011, 04:56 PM
  #40  
Tim H
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Originally Posted by noonie
here is a nice, easy, cheap way of doing it using brake tube with 45° flares. Filters with an fittings are also readily available and easy to flare the tube to fit (37°).

...
Love it!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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