pra4sun

I started a caliper raplacement job at all 4 corners. Besides going through a can of PB Blaster, the job has gone relatively well, except for one problem.

I twisted the right front brake line while trying to loosen the nut. I decided that I would just replace it, but I can't get at the other end that is attached to the bottom of the proportioning valve. It is hidden out of sight, and this doean't seem like a job that should be done blindly.

Are there any tips at getting this removed?

I was also thinking of repairing the broken end. I guess I would have to figure out a way to attach a new nut and then flare the end of the line. Is this a possiblility? It may be simpler that removing the other end of the line.

KeyWestJack

I had a similar problem with my 77. I just kept at it with PB Blaster. I would definitely replace any questionable brake line. The cost is cheap and the repair is without any compromise. Good luck.

Alan 71

Hi Dennis,
That connection to the crossover line is sheltered somewhat because it's upside down like you said, and since it's in the engine compartment it often has a little oil film protecting it too. It may come loose pretty easy for those reasons.
Make sure your flare wrench is a good fit and also make sure you're turning the nut the right direction since you're looking at it upside down.
Regards,
Alan

pra4sun

ttt

Dantana

Getting at that valve was very challenging for me when I replaced all my brake lines with new stainless ones. If memory serves I went at it from both the top and bottom and eventually removed the master cylinder since i had the system cracked open anyway.

I don't have power brakes though, and I think not having a booster and having the master cylinder out made it a lot easier on me.

Make sure you note the locations of each line in the valve so you can get it back together.

Dantana

Could be an interesting read for you:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...line-pics.html

wjsullivan

On my '75 the proportioning valve is mounted to the inside face of the frame rail. Once the car is up in the air it can be accessed easily from below.

Definately replace the line. Cheap and relatively easy to do. There is no substitute for safety and most of your stopping power is generated by the front calipers, hence why front pads wear quicker than rear.

Dantana

Forgot, mine's a '74 - I assumed yours would be the same but maybe not...

70 LS1

If you jack up the front and remove the driver's wheel, you might be able to access it through the wheel well.

pra4sun

Yep, mine is in a different location. It is more forward, nearer to the A Arm, but the geometry looks pretty much the same. It figures that the only line I need to remove is the one that is almost impossible to get at.
I went at it again with the flare wrench and an overnight soaking of PB and still wouldn't budge. I'll try again in a couple of days, but I might switch to vice grips if I can get them on.

pra4sun

I'll give it a try. It is already up on jackstands.

Go-Gone

When I did this on my 69 Conv, I went ahead and cut the line with
a pair of side cutters and used a 6 point socket on the line nut. You are removing the line anyway so go ahead and cut it.

pra4sun

I wonder if the 69 and 70 proportioning valve is the same. There is not a lot of clearance underneath the valve to get a socket on, but will be worth the attempt.

wytevette

12 point box end wrench is still better than a flare wrench, if a six point socket won't fit.

Or, (gasp), a vise grips. (ps. No, I don't use vise grips, pipe wrenches, channel locks, or open end adjustable wrenches on "good" parts!)

Dantana

i used vise grips to get a few of mine off. I was trashing them anyway and it was plain and simple just faster to use the vise grips than fight with the wrenches and the PB.

Mad Vette

I had to use vice grips on my 71.

jimvette999

A miniature pipe wrench works very well..... since you're replacing the line.

206Vette

Im doing the same job and have tried just about everything mentioned here. But a broken ratchet and some swollen fingers later, all I've managed to do is frustrate myself. It seems like it should be a simple job but i can't figure out how to get it off

jordan89

I used some vise grips when I did it, and I also cut some of the steel lines that I couldn't get off with a tube cutter, and then I pulled the blocks, or prop. valve and removed them once out of the car. I replaced all lines so the old ones didn't matter, plus I ended up using the old lines as hangers for some parts that I painted.For the hard lines that were attached to the rubber lines I just cut those and threw them away since I went with stainless braided lines instead of the rubber.

206Vette

I tried to get vice grips on it, but it's a 454 car and I have no room at all to get those down in there without removing some major parts