mikewho

I have been working on my brakes off and on for a few months. Replaced m/c, calipers,pads. Bled brakes with speed bleeders (these are great). Still have almost no pressure on brake pedal with engine running. Right rear rotor had been removed earlier, so I tapped holes with 3/8-24 tap and bolted rotor on as gtr1999 suggested. Problem is my runout is .010 (if I'm doing it right). Corvette Enthusiast Magazine suggested replacing spindle instead of shimming if there was a large runout. Any suggestions? How do you know if bearings and or spindle are bad? Is replacing spindle diffficlut? I am not a wrench but willing learn. Mike

GTR1999

Mike, glad you bolted them. .010 is not uncommon, I've had that much with new USA rotors! Can you check the runout in the spindle flange? If you can check it. Replacing a spindle is not a common backyard vette job. You have to set up the bearings to .001-.002 endplay and that usually required machining to get them that close. Check my post on rebuilding rear bearings and it will have a lot of pictures to help you decide what to do. If the endplay is good and there is no problem with the "feel" of the bearings I'd leave it until you're ready to rebuild them. New spindles have runout in them too. I've used both USA and imported ones and some were out .002-.005" and I had to face them in a lathe.
I've shimmed rotors without any problem, as long as you bolt them on and you're using the correct thread- not the 3/8-16 as that mag listed a few issues ago.

Here is the bearing post.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1229686

billlambeer

Im not sure what to say about them being replaced or if they need replacing, someone else will have to help you on that one. But I can tell you that replacing the spindles and/ or bearing on the rear trailing arm is quite a hard piece of work. I did mine just recently. First you need to remove the trailing arm, which if you havent removed it in a while, the bolt could be rusted in, or if your lucky it might just pop right out. Then you really need a press, along with a big hammer. I began with trying to press it out, and it was under so much pressure i thought it was going to pop back out at me, so then i would goto the hammer and hit the ever livin **** out of, and move back and forth till they finally popped. Now this is by no way the most technical way of getting it apart, but it was all i could think of, maybe someone else has a better solution, who knows. To put it shortly, between removing the trailing arm and then gettin that spindle out, these two things were probably the toughest work i have done on the entire car, and i have pretty much worked on the entire car at this point. Im not trying to discourage you, this thing can be done and if you take your time and have a little bit of luck, it could go much easier than mine. This is always an option to, if someone comes back and says that they need to be replaced.
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...dept%5Fid=1883
its an option, but a damn pricey one.
Good luck,
Matt

mikewho

I cannot measure spindle runout. I do have worn area on outer flange of spindle that doesn't look good. It measures about 4 1/2" in length and goes from outer to inner side of flange edge. I did get some .001 shims from McMaster so I'll try them.