Overheating is an Understatement
#21
Race Director
If it overheats at idle, it isn't a radiator capacity issue. If it overheats at speed, it isn't from lack of airflow (not a fan problem.)
You still didn't say if this prob just started or not, but I think your water pump failed, or you have some blockage keeping water from the radiator.
If the problem just started, did you change something, or did it unexplicably appear?
You are not getting too fast of water flow, especially if the problem just started.
You said the Tstat works, you just changed it? is it opening fully?
Doug
You still didn't say if this prob just started or not, but I think your water pump failed, or you have some blockage keeping water from the radiator.
If the problem just started, did you change something, or did it unexplicably appear?
You are not getting too fast of water flow, especially if the problem just started.
You said the Tstat works, you just changed it? is it opening fully?
Doug
#22
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If after you troubleshoot your problem it leads to your radiator this is the best place to go:
http://www.dewitts.com/collections/c...inum-radiators
Dennis
http://www.dewitts.com/collections/c...inum-radiators
Dennis
#23
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If it overheats at idle, it isn't a radiator capacity issue. If it overheats at speed, it isn't from lack of airflow (not a fan problem.)
You still didn't say if this prob just started or not, but I think your water pump failed, or you have some blockage keeping water from the radiator.
If the problem just started, did you change something, or did it unexplicably appear?
You are not getting too fast of water flow, especially if the problem just started.
You said the Tstat works, you just changed it? is it opening fully?
Doug
You still didn't say if this prob just started or not, but I think your water pump failed, or you have some blockage keeping water from the radiator.
If the problem just started, did you change something, or did it unexplicably appear?
You are not getting too fast of water flow, especially if the problem just started.
You said the Tstat works, you just changed it? is it opening fully?
Doug
The Tstat opens fully. Checked it in the kitchen first.
Good input Doug. Thanks
#24
Pro
This may sound off the wall, since you've stated that you are running a #'s matching 327/365 engine, but, have you checked the block to make sure it is a 3782870 and not a 3858180. The 8180's were used in conjunction with the 2870's, but, had much thinner cylinder walls. If the overbore of .060" is done on an 8180, I'd be a little worried. Just a thought.
#25
Drifting
If you could post a few pics of your engine bay so we all could see your set up that could help. Do you still have the fan shroud and the seals for example. Is the fan correct or some aftermarket flex fan? Original distributor with full time ported vacuum? Just a few more specifics and we should be able to narrow this down a bit.
Dennis
Dennis
#26
Race Director
Possibly a head gasket leak or cracked head. A block tester kit will verify if so, many shops offer this service, shouldn't cost too much, ot just buy your own, they are not expensive.
I would eliminate combustion gasses into the coolant first, then investigate things like water pump. The 16# cap is a combustion gas clue.
You can also leave the cap on loose (first notch) and drive the car and see if problem continues, releasing the gases into the air should slow or eliminate teh overheating, especially if you have a 160* Tstat.
Doug
I would eliminate combustion gasses into the coolant first, then investigate things like water pump. The 16# cap is a combustion gas clue.
You can also leave the cap on loose (first notch) and drive the car and see if problem continues, releasing the gases into the air should slow or eliminate teh overheating, especially if you have a 160* Tstat.
Doug
#28
Race Director
Electric fan is just another fix to try and solve a different problem. You DON'T have an airflow problem, anything over 20 MPH, and you don't need a fan at all for cruise conditions.
Ah, the old meet at night trick. Kinda like the car is already warmed up when you get there to look at it trick. There is something being hidden, the question is, what?
Doug
Ah, the old meet at night trick. Kinda like the car is already warmed up when you get there to look at it trick. There is something being hidden, the question is, what?
Doug
#29
Drifting
Electric fan is just another fix to try and solve a different problem. You DON'T have an airflow problem, anything over 20 MPH, and you don't need a fan at all for cruise conditions.
Ah, the old meet at night trick. Kinda like the car is already warmed up when you get there to look at it trick. There is something being hidden, the question is, what?
Doug
Ah, the old meet at night trick. Kinda like the car is already warmed up when you get there to look at it trick. There is something being hidden, the question is, what?
Doug
#31
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If you could post a few pics of your engine bay so we all could see your set up that could help. Do you still have the fan shroud and the seals for example. Is the fan correct or some aftermarket flex fan? Original distributor with full time ported vacuum? Just a few more specifics and we should be able to narrow this down a bit.
Dennis
Dennis
Here are the only engine pics I have at this time:
#32
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#33
Drifting
#34
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Possibly a head gasket leak or cracked head. A block tester kit will verify if so, many shops offer this service, shouldn't cost too much, ot just buy your own, they are not expensive.
I would eliminate combustion gasses into the coolant first, then investigate things like water pump. The 16# cap is a combustion gas clue.
Doug
I would eliminate combustion gasses into the coolant first, then investigate things like water pump. The 16# cap is a combustion gas clue.
Doug
Last edited by tebok; 07-09-2013 at 02:36 PM.
#35
Race Director
Doug
#37
Melting Slicks
If I were the OP, I'd remove the Therm. and drive the car just to observe the result. Next I'd try filling threw the upper Radiator Hose and the Therm. Housing Port.. Never know, could be an Air Trap somewhere. (I know, highly unlikely). All Diagnosis Testing can be done with plain tap water for convenience. Keep us posted so we all learn something new. Al W.
#39
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C2 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
That said, you might want to run your hand all around the front of the core to ensure that the whole radiator is participating in cooling the engine.
Jim
#40
Burning Brakes
Kiss
Borrow a rad pressure tester and test the system for leaks . Check it cold first, then warm it up and pump it up again .
My guess would be a cracked head or a head gasket and
the pressure test will show you if it has either one .
Bill
My guess would be a cracked head or a head gasket and
the pressure test will show you if it has either one .
Bill