cordova67

My SS700 is due to ship this week. Have watched the video of Keisler and a pro shop installing the SS700 in a C2 and it looks like a bear to do. Anyone performed this installation and have any suggestions on what and what not to do?

BTW, my 67 is a small block.

66 Vette

I installed one in my 66 vette small block. I did modify my crossmember and made it removable which made the installation much easier. The SS700 is heavier than the Muncie, I can lift and install the Muncie by myself but I needed help to lift and install the SS700. I have to add I am 66 years old, a younger person may not require assistance.

6T5RUSH

Yup, as 66_Vette said, the SS700 is heavier, approximately 100+lbs.

If you're doing this yourself and you have a couple of buddies AND you have the stock, non-removable cross member, pull your motor and install it as a unit OR move the motor forward to allow the install like a clamshell to take place. Keep in mind, in moving the motor forward you must disconnect everything except rad hoses as if you were pulling the motor.

If you have access to a lift, it's not as back-breaking vs. laying on your back with the car supported firmly on jack stands.

Altering the crossmember so that you have a removeable center section offers the best approach as you can leave your motor right in the car, just supported.

Good luck and you're going to luv it when she's all together. It IS the ticket for those long hauls and gas at $4.00 + a gallon.

cordova67

Thanks for the info guys. Did you not disconnect any coolant hoses at all? Looks like it would be necessary in order to move the engine forward the 3 inches suggested.

Regarding the crossmember, this is a 100% numbers matching car and I do not want to screw the originality up. Changing the transmission can be reversed.

Do have a 2-post lift, so I won't have to lay on my back. Just wondering if pulling the motor and putting everything back in as a single assembly might be easier in the long run?

I have an SS700 in my 67 Chevelle and you're right, it is nice. Was just concerned about the difficulty of installing same in the Vette.

Crunch527

I just did a TKO600 with a non removable crossmember. The same rule applies with the RS700 and non removable crossmember...the engine either has to be moved forward, which requires disconnect of all hoses, exhaust, PS, etc and I even took out the radiator to give me more room or the engine can be removed from the car. I removed the engine because trying to mate the eng and trans from underneath the was too difficult by myself with the engine hanging free from the engine hoist.

I mated the eng and trans outside the car and installed as one piece. I also had to drop the steering rack to allow me to get the right angle to get the tail shaft up and over the non removable cross member.





From the pic you can see how limited the working space is with the larger transmission...NOTE: as I said before, the radiator and support are out and the steering arm has been lowered to allow for lowering the engine as far as I could so I could then push the tail of the trans up and over the crossmember.

In all, doing this type of trans swap with a non removable crossmember is a complete and total pain in the a$$. Even if I had a lift, I would mod my cross member before I did the install. You will be in a perfect position with the Muncie out of the way to do the mod.

There is a forum member who is in Illinois who laser cuts plates that basically allow the crossmember to be bolted in. Its a real slick setup and not too hard to do. I talked with him on the phone before Christmas but I never ordered the plates (got busy I guess). I think for about 50-$60 bucks he will send you the plates...real nice gentlemen. Do a search about "removable crossmember" or "crossmember mod" and you should be able to find the thread.

Frank

6T7L71CPE

Crossmember plates:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...ossmember.html

cordova67

Thank you, excellent information guys. Looks like the SS700 installation I did in my Chevelle will be a cake walk compared to C2.

Using a 4-post lift with a jack tray, I think that I can do the C2 installation without pulling the motor. Going to give it a try and see how it goes.

Regarding the cross-member cutting, they are all really good ideas, especially the welded flanges, but I just do not want to alter this frame.

I would like to comment on the pinch bolted C-Channel version. As someone else stated, there are extreme torsional loads applied to this component. Simply bolting a channel to the bottom will not pick up the same loads.

However, if a tube was made that would encapsulate the entire structure and when the bolts were removed would slide away far enough to remove the center section, then you may have something.

Unfortunalely a tube as described would have to be fabricated. Just my 2 cents.

SLWRNU

Not sure how you're planning to use your car but mine has the HO LS3, 5 spd, 3:70 rear, etc, and I modified my crossmember to be removable using the C channel approach and there have been zero issues in any regard. And trust me, there will come a time when you'll need to remove, service the clutch or trans and you'll wish you had thought this thru and planned ahead.

65tripleblack

After installing the RS600 in my '65 last summer, I have a few suggestions for you:

1. Install engine/transmission as an assembly.

2. Leave fuel pump off of engine until after it's installed.

3. DO NOT fill trans before installation.

Crunch527

Best of luck on the install! You will love the 5-speed.

Frank

cordova67

Thanks. I have the SS700 in my 67 Chevelle SS and it really performs well. Just not looking forward to this installation in the C2.

4 Speed Dave

Here are some photos of the removable crossmember plates as previously discussed. I just did this on my 66 a few weeks ago. Having to move the engine in any way to service a clutch, throw out bearing or transmission is unacceptable in my world.

Some items that people don't think about is that the crossmember not only takes vertical loading but torsional loading as well. Which is why these endplate connections are really the only way to go from a member fixity standpoint. Good luck with your install I hope it goes well for you if you decide to keep your crossmember in place.

cordova67

Thanks for sharing. Very nice installation. I would do this in a heart beat if it had no affect on the value of the car.

As I said earlier, this is an all original car and I think that this modification may adversely affect the value.

If it happens that I change my mind, do you think it's possible to do this mod with the body still on the frame? Don't really see how all of the cutting and welding could be done without damaging the body.

wmf62

IF you place a piece of metal above the crossmember & between the underside of the floor AND use a fiber cutoff wheel you should be able to cut the crossmember without damaging the floor.

the pix show the flanges being welded on the inside, so there is no accessibility problem to make the welds; and if you use a piece of metal above the area being welded you won't have weld spatter on the fiberglass.

my opinion...
Bill

cordova67

Thanks, good ideaa.

4 Speed Dave

My flanges are welded BOTH on the inside and outside. It would not be possible to weld the flange on the top outside with the body on. The sides and bottom yes on the outside. The key to these plates also it to fit the crossmember tight thus you aren't pulling the frame rails inward when you bolt the crossmember in. My 66 I am going for the Bloomington Black award so making modifications is not frowned upon.

cordova67

Thanks for the information.

Does anyone else think that the modification of the cross-member with installation of the flanges has no affect on the value of the car? That is my real concern. Don't want to mess something up by doing something that in not reversable.

As far as the flange installation goes, it looks like if you can perform the cutting with the body on, then you can place the new flanges on the member, bolt them and then tack weld into place. Remove the center section and weld all 4 sides and you should be able to get 3 sides on the fixed section.

Agree?

wmf62

a purist would probably be unhappy but a driver would love you (like a brother...) for it; i would..

IF you wanted to make it completely reversible, carefully cut the entire crossmember from the frame and install the C3 removeable crossmember. then you could cut the C3 brackets off and weld the C2 crossmember back in.
Bill

cordova67

Since I'm not planning on selling it until I'm too old to drive it, (at least a few more days), guess it really doesn't matter. think I may just go ahead with it. that will certainly make the installation of the new 5-speed much simpler.

wmf62

ABSOLUTELY... i wish i could do that to my 62....
Bill