Mr D.

I use oven cleaner

Mr D.

What's wrong with your frame?

mudbone64

That sounds like a good idea. I've used oven cleaner to clean a greasy engine so it ought to do a good job cleaning the underside of the body.

The usual rust in the ends of the rails. It's also got some issues up around the gas tank x-member as well as the differentail x-member mounting areas. If you guys promise not to laugh I'll see if I can post some additional pics later.

Beach Dude

Nice to see somebody else up to their elbows in a project.

Keep the pics and updates coming.

Thanks,

R.J. (Beach Dude)

mudbone64

Oh yea, I'm up to my elbows allright. Possibly in over my head. I'd get some pics but we've got some thunder boomers going on in central KY right now and me no likey being out in the garage with this kind of lightening streaking across the heavens.

I suppose the entire operation is a step-by-step evolution. I just try to keep up my strategy of repairing/replacing one part at a time until I run out of parts to repair/replace and then I just start bolting it all back togethor.

mudbone64

WARNING! Some of these images may be disturbing:





Most people would dump this bucket of rust and not even consider trying to repair it. I may do exactly that but I am going to make sure that is what needs to be done before I do anything rash. The amazing thing is I think most of the damage is due to rodent infestation more than anything else. It seems that most of the damage is found on any horizontal surface. If you'll notice there isn't any rust in the front vertical portion of the kick-ups. If the remainder of the frame was as solid as the kick-ups I'd be in good shape.

Having to replace the side rails isn't any big deal. However the #3 x-member is a big deal. I do have acces to a NOS #3 x-member and the rails aren't that expensive. We also have an awesome metal fabrication shop in my hometown in southeastern KY. This guy does tremendous work. If you saw some of the Mustangs and Camaros this guy repairs you wouldn't believe your eyes. Also, with his shop being located where it is, his labor isn't that expensive either.

Okay, go ahead and get your jollies.

Willie'sVette

I toast a brewski to u sir

I bought a ready to drive vette cause I didn't have the ambition or skills to do what u'r doing...u have my respect & I wish u godspeed w/ u'r mission.

mudbone64

Well, the good news is I have my '72 that I can drive while I'm working on this one. The bad news is that means I have two cars to work on rather than one. The '72 ain't nuthin' to sneeze at but you now how old cars are. It's always something.

Quite honestly I don't possess any special skill at all. I'd say the best thing I have is my garage. The garage gives me time to let something sit until I figure out a way to get myself out of any mess I might create.

Ambition? I'd say I enjoy, waitaminute, I'd say I'm driven to work on these cars because it's a challenge. My fear of failure is what keeps me motivated. I'd feel like the biggest girly-man in the world if I just said "oh forget about it, this car thing is just bigger than I am and I'm just selling this POS and forgetting the whole thing".

At any rate, I do appreciate your compliement. It's always nice to enjoy the approval of one's car bruthas.

Mr D.

Best advice I can add to your frame problem is figure out what the end cost is going to be to repair vs. buying a used frame.

That frame can be repaired (I have seen worst repaired), however, you will need to sandblast/de-scale it first to determine the extent of repairs it will need.

If the budget permits I would look for a good used frame.

Mr D.

Check out this thread

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...me-repair.html

mudbone64

I do plan to haul the frame to the metal shop to see if I can forumulate what the cost will be. If the costs get above 2k I'll start investigating vette products' "cowl back frame". If you've got any opinions about the "cowl back" frame I'd interested in hearing them.

Thanks for reminding me about the frame reapair thread. As you can imagine I watched that one with great interest. I've now got it in my favorites so I can quickly refer to it.

Westlotorn

I have the same frame issues as you, my Michigan based car saw salted roads and the original frame is toast.
Silver Slash Streak has a great write up on converting a C3 frame to C2. I have purchased a very solid C3 frame to fix mine but it is waiting for me to start.
It will take time and effort but not much money. The really nice c3 frame was only $1,200 with good/rebuilt front suspension.

mudbone64

I caught silverslashstreaks' frame conversion. As a matter of fact, I saved some of his pics to my computer a long time ago. Man, what a job he did on that one. The C3 conversion has crossed my mind and if you can get a good roller and rob the suspension and brakes, you're just that much better off. At least if you want disc brakes. I want disc brakes. $1,200 ain't too shabby for that frame.

I haven't ever learned to weld (yet) so the amount of effort I can put into the conversion is limited. My guess is my contribution to the process would be monitary. The metal fabricator I mentioned earlier definitely has the talent and equipment to do the job but I'll have to ask him if he knows anything about Corvette frames.

Westlotorn

There is a shop in Michigan that makes brand new frames, you can even request a Stainless Steel frame.

mudbone64

Are your talking about Vette Products of Michigan? I've seen pics of the stainless frames. Not my cup of tea. I'm something of a walking (maybe driving?) contradiction as I tend to the understated side but at the same time I like to drive a very overstated or extraverted, stylisticly speaking, car such as a Corvette.

sub006

Your inside door panels look cherry in the fuzzy photos. Good luck with the frame; now I'm scared to look at my '64, I stuffed it in a barn over 20 years ago with 250,000 California miles on it. In two and a half years the fourth and last kid will graduate from Berkeley and I can start to play with my 45-year car again.

Haven't heard anything about birdcage condition in your thread. With the body off, maybe it's time to have a look?

mudbone64

The interior of the car is totally acceptable. I did trade those seats in the pictures for some refurbished seats. Freshened up frames, new foam & covers etc.

I have gone over the rocker channels and they look good and that is a big relief. The area of the cage around the body mount just in front of the rear looks okay as well.

My guess is your California car is fine. However, curiosity would rule the day for me. I'd have to look at the car just to find out. Ofcourse that would get me to thinking and worrying about everything that needed to be done and the next thing you know the body is off the car.

mike 64

Great job so far, did a suspension restoration on my CAL 64 rdst. no rust through on frame so left the body on but everything under neath is new except trans and diff. including engine rebuild and alt. steering box, vr man was I TRIED OF WRITING CHECKS but once your in . The bright is it.s going to be a lot easier to get all those suspension parts off especially the trailing arms 2 packs of sawzall blades for the right one. Well it.s only money ( EASY FOR ME TO SAY) notice to illusion of grander novice save 12- 15K before you get started then you can piece meal it

mudbone64

Though my computer decided to lay down on the job I haven't. I've actually been quite busy and here are some update pics.

Did anyone ever see the '64 rear engine Corvette:?


I was needing some weight to jack against so I lightly placed the engine and tranny on the frame to give me some help. Surprisingly all of the rear suspension components came out quite easily.



I used the all-thread method to remove my front springs and found it very user friendly. I was really suprised how easy it was to compress the front spring with only a wrench.

The 4x4 is one of the same 4x4s I used to lift the body with. A friend drilled the hole in the 4x4 as I don't have a drill bit large enough to drill the required hole diameter and that's why I used it.


I have since removed the a-frame bushings and cross shafts and mercy, what a job. An air hammer comes in quite handy.

I'm currently trying to locate a frame because I believe mine is just too far gone.

Westlotorn

If you were closer I have a 72 extra frame that has slight damage in the front frame horns but is a no rust solid frame. Perfect for parts.
How was your crossmember with the exhaust holes in it? I can put my finger right through my original 66 frame in this crossmember and in front of the kickups.