Daveinnola

[size=16px]I am thinking about using the Michigan motorsports stage 3 drift cam in my 01 Z06. Any one have experience with this cam. I have been researching cams and this one is supposed to pull hard in the mid range.[/size]

MazdaCorvette

I actually just installed that exact cam on my 02 Z06. I'm planning on doing a writeup as to what exactly was involved and the difficulties of camming a fully stock car were for me but I kind of went in blind being that I couldn't find anything on this cam for the C5's as far as people's experiences. Cut and dry, this cam kicks ***. There is a little bit of cam surge (bucking) around 1500 RPM but it's to be expected with the amount of lift spec'd on the stage 3 drift cam. I lost a little bit of low end torque but with 42 lb injectors I am making a conservative 420WHP with a 7k redline and it definitely uses every bit of RPM right to the top now vs dropping off at 6k stock. I have no problems whatsoever starting the vehicle or sitting at a comfortable ~850rpm idle. The tuner was able to make anything under 3k RPM daily driver friendly but as soon as I pass 3k the tires just rip loose if I don't control the throttle. Great sounding cam and it honks like hell. I get compliments every single time I stop for gas.

Daveinnola

That's exactly the type of feedback I am looking for. Did you do anything else like heads or intake or did you do just cam?

MazdaCorvette

I have my build sheet at work but to name what I can remember of the 50+ parts list, the main mods were:

1. MM Stage 3 Drift Cam kit
2. K&N CAI
3. Fuel Injector Clinic 40 lb injectors
4. 1 7/8 long tubes, full 3" exhaust
5. Melling High Pressure Stock Volume Oil Pump
6. Ls2 timing chain
7. ARP head bolts
8. Pinned Crank Pulley (DAYCO PB1117N)
9. MM Trunnion Upgrade, original rockers
10. MM Lifters
11. Allstar racing oil galley plug
12. McLeod clutch with billet flywheel (awful clutch, go LS7)
13. External clutch bleeder
14. MSD wires with heat socks
15. NGK plugs tuner recommended

Heads are not ported, stock TB, stock LS6 intake manifold, left the water pump (had 60k miles and new one's aren't built as well), left original motor mounts. Did every single gasket I could buy. Stock bottom end too. Lmk if you have any questions. Doing stage 2 trans build soon because the clutch wasn't disengaging on the dyno and we blew up 3rd/4th. Had no idea the clutch needed a tick performance master...couldn't start the car to drive and test without tune. Tough times.

Daveinnola

Thank you for the info. I already done the LS7 clutch and torque rube rebuild. I also have new exhaust from headers all the way back. New magnaflow xpipe and catback. I also have cats deleted. I am definitely going with the MM stage 3 drift cam. I am undecided how much I want to spend on heads. And Also intake.

MazdaCorvette

I would personally leave the heads unported unless you're planning forced induction in the future. It's like $2k+ for 40hp NA. I'd definitely recommend a bigger throttle body and FAST intake manifold if you can swing it though.

NSFW

Looks like a solid choice. I had a 232/234@112, this one in 230/236@112, so the same amount of overlap, but this should start making good power just slightly earlier.

The only drawback to a cam this large is that it'll be kinda weak at cruising RPM, so you have to downshift if you want to enjoy it, but IMO that's a very small price to pay for the extra power you get.

Daveinnola

I'm not afraid to downshift to keep in power band. I love driving the 6 speed hard. This is my weekend car. I hardly drive it in any kind of traffic. Thanks fir the info. I am sending heads out tomorrow to be ported and valve job. Starting to order parts. Will be doing the job as soon as I get heads back. Machine shop Said 2 to 3 week turnaround. That would be perfect timing.

NSFW

You'll enjoy it. I don't get why people complain about that kind of thing, but they do. To me, having a mellow throttle response at 2000 RPM and screaming at 3500 RPM is the best of both worlds.

FWIW, mine surged below 1700 RPM or so in first and second gear, but I heard from a guy with the same cam I had who said that he didn't have any surging. So apparently that can be tuned out. My timing chain broke before I could experiment with the tuning, so I never really found out for sure, but apparently the key thing is to reduce the ignition advance in the low-RPM / low-airflow region.