Alternator /Heat issue
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Alternator /Heat issue
I am having a problem with my alternator, its getting hot and the charge keeps dropping as it gets hotter until it goes to 11 volts, when I start the car it charged (13.5) very well but as I start driving the alternator starts getting hot and the charging keeps dropping, I tried touching the alternator and that was not a good idea, it was hooooot.
My big question is, are there any remedy out there for that problem, advice will be taken into consideration seriously, the alternator is not the problem because I took a very good working alternator from my next car and installed it and the problem still exist, I even went so far to reinstalled the alternator back into my C6 and its working fine, I checked ground also, but as I said, its the heat, I am just trying to find a remedy for the heat or any recommendations.
My big question is, are there any remedy out there for that problem, advice will be taken into consideration seriously, the alternator is not the problem because I took a very good working alternator from my next car and installed it and the problem still exist, I even went so far to reinstalled the alternator back into my C6 and its working fine, I checked ground also, but as I said, its the heat, I am just trying to find a remedy for the heat or any recommendations.
Last edited by TRINIC5; 08-27-2016 at 02:31 PM.
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
#5
Instructor
I had the same issue ! i thought it was the alternator getting hot/old so i replaced it - same issue ! then i replaced the battery same issue ! After talking to someone with a SC vette they told me the harness that goes to the power the alternator and connects to the fuse box along the ilne is a link that builds up corrosion - he ran a seperate 0 Gauge wire with a fuse in the the center from the alternator to the fuse box and never drops under 13.5 anymore =) . im about to tackle this issue soon as well.
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TRINIC5 (08-29-2016)
#6
OP: I had similar symptoms, turned out mine was not the alternator or battery but rather the terminal on the starter, the connection had worked lose and burned the terminal out of the starter.
Check all possible scenarios before replacing the alternator IMHO even though it appears to be a simple case.
Check all possible scenarios before replacing the alternator IMHO even though it appears to be a simple case.
#7
Pro
Mine was just the fact the stock alternator does not do well under heat. I replaced my alternator same issue, then went with Mechman alternator 170 amp version and now I'm at 14.5 volts all the time.
#8
Hey guys I found this while searching. Bringing it back from the dead.
Not forced induction but this is exactly what’s happening to me. Everything is working perfectly in my cooling system but my uncoated Kooks headers are putting off so much heat in my 2013 Z06 we think it’s impacting my alternator.
I work at a shop and we’ve been going through this for a few days. My gauge dropped to 10 or 11V. Restarting it when cooled down it would be back to normal output. We noted some discoloration on the exposed wire for the alternator probably due to heat. The header is t too far from the alternator.
The common mod of removing the hood rubber has already been done. Any suggestions on where to start next? I really don’t want to pull the headers and have them ceramic coated. I was thinking maybe some header wrap. I had made the error of purchasing 1 7/8” headers so I’ll be upgrading to 2” eventually in a few years anyway, but for now I need to be able to drive the car.
Not forced induction but this is exactly what’s happening to me. Everything is working perfectly in my cooling system but my uncoated Kooks headers are putting off so much heat in my 2013 Z06 we think it’s impacting my alternator.
I work at a shop and we’ve been going through this for a few days. My gauge dropped to 10 or 11V. Restarting it when cooled down it would be back to normal output. We noted some discoloration on the exposed wire for the alternator probably due to heat. The header is t too far from the alternator.
The common mod of removing the hood rubber has already been done. Any suggestions on where to start next? I really don’t want to pull the headers and have them ceramic coated. I was thinking maybe some header wrap. I had made the error of purchasing 1 7/8” headers so I’ll be upgrading to 2” eventually in a few years anyway, but for now I need to be able to drive the car.
#10
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Hey guys I found this while searching. Bringing it back from the dead.
Not forced induction but this is exactly what’s happening to me. Everything is working perfectly in my cooling system but my uncoated Kooks headers are putting off so much heat in my 2013 Z06 we think it’s impacting my alternator.
I work at a shop and we’ve been going through this for a few days. My gauge dropped to 10 or 11V. Restarting it when cooled down it would be back to normal output. We noted some discoloration on the exposed wire for the alternator probably due to heat. The header is t too far from the alternator.
The common mod of removing the hood rubber has already been done. Any suggestions on where to start next? I really don’t want to pull the headers and have them ceramic coated. I was thinking maybe some header wrap. I had made the error of purchasing 1 7/8” headers so I’ll be upgrading to 2” eventually in a few years anyway, but for now I need to be able to drive the car.
Not forced induction but this is exactly what’s happening to me. Everything is working perfectly in my cooling system but my uncoated Kooks headers are putting off so much heat in my 2013 Z06 we think it’s impacting my alternator.
I work at a shop and we’ve been going through this for a few days. My gauge dropped to 10 or 11V. Restarting it when cooled down it would be back to normal output. We noted some discoloration on the exposed wire for the alternator probably due to heat. The header is t too far from the alternator.
The common mod of removing the hood rubber has already been done. Any suggestions on where to start next? I really don’t want to pull the headers and have them ceramic coated. I was thinking maybe some header wrap. I had made the error of purchasing 1 7/8” headers so I’ll be upgrading to 2” eventually in a few years anyway, but for now I need to be able to drive the car.
I would double check the power terminal down at the starter. I've seen dozens of those get loose over time and start to draw crazy high amperage and eventually melt that terminal on the starter.