RPGR90s

After six months of storage (late fall foot surgery), I opened the garage to my buddy's house, installed the battery, pressed the throttle to the floor (to prevent starting), watched the oil pressure come up and then lit the fire.

Settled into a perfect idle and 10 min, later, I was off for the year's 1st drive.

Oh so good......

MetalMan2

Both! The Katech has the potential to be the best (IMO) remote clutch bleeder on the market, but for its price point it has some major flaws... that can be rectified.

smitty2919

It's unfortunate the Katech bleeder needs to be modified to "work right" (unlike Katech given their reputation) but still at only $160 you won't be complaining when you need to bleed your clutch given the OEM method...

vette4fl

Mine went in unmodified and works fine. Just sayn

Kubs

Mine also works just fine unmodified. I put it in the OE slave, then when that failed I bought a new OE unit, and then when this last clutch went in I put it in the Luk brand unit. It fit all 3 slave cylinders without issues or leaks.

Midwest19942000

Just curious how many miles if everyone getting out of these stock clutches and slave cylinders changing vs not changing the clutch fluid?

Mr. Black

I don't want to seem like I'm beating a dead horse but the Tick Performance remote speed bleeder is currently only 49 dollars and has 5 star reviews.

I know I can come off as a proud cheap *** at times. Yeah, this is one of those no regrets scenarios. I have nothing against Katech as a company whatsoever.

160 bucks vs 50 bucks when they both work is pretty big deal IMO.

vette4fl

Yeah, well the chicks dig the Katech.

VetteDrmr

If you're running fairly stock power and normally shifting (i.e. "granny" shifting), the system's pretty robust. I've got almost 300k on my '00 FRC, and the clutch failed around 225k due to several PP levers failing at their pivots. I replaced the slave and put in a remote bleeder when I replaced the clutch, but haven't flushed the clutch fluid (this thread actually makes me feel kinda guilty about that) since then. No problems with either the original or the replacement.

Now, if you're using the system hard (WOT shifts, high h.p. setups, etc.), then YMMV.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

Bpaschke

Exactly. The Tick one worked perfectly for me too. With how tight it is already, I don't think I would even try to install any remote bleeder without dropping the torque tube.

And to be honest pulling the torque tube was a much easier job than I had expected. I was quite intimidated by it, and had put it off until the last thing on my winter upgrade list. Is it a lot of work? Yes. But really not too bad with the proper tools.

_zebra

dang! it cost that much to piece together my own for my wife's Hummer. i'd jump on that deal.

99vette9999

Got a new Borla S-Type exhaust, and painted the tips black.....
Wheels and Tires next....

Borla exhaust

Tusc

I for a penny, in for a pound. Have you considered spraying the rest of the muffler cans rear pipes as well?

99vette9999

lol....YES...the cans will be cleaned or painted, i haven't made up my mind ...the over spray was a last minute screw up....

K9Leader

A friend in my local club who also has a C5 mentioned he had ordered LED headlight bulbs (low and high) from a company called VLEDS and would let me know how it works out. Key is being able to position the LEDs on each side of the bulb assembly at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions so that the cutoff pattern approximates the original and doesn't blind oncoming drivers.
I had good luck putting LED bulbs into my BMW 128i and getting a reasonable cutoff but much better light than the halogens. So I decided to experiment with an inexpensive set off of Amazon. It was a fail - the low beams could not be set at 9-and-3, more like 10-and-4. I see that some of them have adjustable mounting rings so I may look into that. Or just pony up for the VLEDS if my buddy finds they work. Or try the VetteLights kit. At 63 I've lost a lot of my night vision (I've read articles that at my age most people are down to only 30% of what they had in their prime) so need to do something to compensate (and the OEM lighting on the C5 was already pretty bad).

C-5 Rob

check out this site, you may have seen these before. These are what I will go with.

They are either round or square 3 lights on each side.

https://www.knightdrivetv.com/collec...-knightdrivetv

C-5 Rob

Just ordered some leather upper and lower door skins from Redline goods, they have some sort of sale. The entire set cost me $350.00 bucks including shipping and tax.

If anyone is thinking about it, now is a good time.

Also ordered new bushings for my shifter box and fr under the shifter from TMOD so I'm blowing cash like a fool.

knewblewkorvette

Pictures please!

Tusc

Thanks for looking out. I grabbed door cards and A-arms. I would not have done either except for the sale and the fact that the doors are separating and the A-arm came to me with some cuts. I did email the vendor to verify their trim will fit the wider 02-04 A-arms.

C-5 Rob

I will post them when I am done. I don't have them yet