'75 All U-Joint Replacement: Guide?
#1
'75 All U-Joint Replacement: Guide?
I have a '75 and I need to replace all the u joints in the halfshafts and driveshaft. My question is, is there a generally preferred write up about this somewhere? In the past, when I've looked for insight on certain projects there's lots of advice, but most people usually agree that there's one or two articles/writeups in particular that are the best, or standard. For example, when I was researching timing and vacuum advance, there were two particular articles that were considered the best writeups to refer to. Does anyone have a link ot that for the half shafts and or propeller shaft u joint replacement.
I have read so far that I must be careful not to bend or warp the flanges in a vice when removing the ujoints. I'm looking for thorough articles that anyone might know if that is good to help me avoid some of the pitfalls.
Thanks,
Brandon
I have read so far that I must be careful not to bend or warp the flanges in a vice when removing the ujoints. I'm looking for thorough articles that anyone might know if that is good to help me avoid some of the pitfalls.
Thanks,
Brandon
#2
Le Mans Master
Mine if helpful, and advice i got..enjoy, and i bent one until i learned
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...anual-l82.html
Also see this just posted by @GTR1999
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-flanges.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...anual-l82.html
Also see this just posted by @GTR1999
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-flanges.html
#4
Racer
Member Since: Nov 2019
Location: Canadian living in southern France
Posts: 322
Received 173 Likes
on
79 Posts
I just did all of mine, and would recommend a couple of things.
Soak everything with penetrating oil 2 or 3 times before you start. It will help everything come apart easier, and seemed to make the UJ cups more co-operative coming out.
Except in one case, when I had a really tight one, and my UJ tool bent the flange. I got a new flange, and that was that.
When putting the half shafts back in, it will be hard to get the U-bolt clamps to start, and I used a load tie-down strap with a ratchet to pull the trailing arm in a bit. Problem solved.
I used lock washers on the flange bolts, and like many others, have had no problems.
Use quality parts, and unless you have more than 400 HP, use greasable joints, they'll last forever..
Don't rush.
Soak everything with penetrating oil 2 or 3 times before you start. It will help everything come apart easier, and seemed to make the UJ cups more co-operative coming out.
Except in one case, when I had a really tight one, and my UJ tool bent the flange. I got a new flange, and that was that.
When putting the half shafts back in, it will be hard to get the U-bolt clamps to start, and I used a load tie-down strap with a ratchet to pull the trailing arm in a bit. Problem solved.
I used lock washers on the flange bolts, and like many others, have had no problems.
Use quality parts, and unless you have more than 400 HP, use greasable joints, they'll last forever..
Don't rush.
#5
Thanks for the advice. I've been soaking everything in penetrating oil, but things are stuck tightly together with rust. I currently have another thread on the issue, but I believe I'm going to have to cut the u bolt straps.
#6
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
Posts: 8,689
Received 4,651 Likes
on
2,804 Posts
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
#7
Tech Contributor
greaseable joints are weaker than solids. Both can be broken. My usa made greaseable joints with 18k miles and no abuse broke in half shifting at 3500 RPM with a 250 hp 350