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'23 C8 Z51 Track Build

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Old 05-14-2024, 08:17 PM
  #441  
X25
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Not sure, but I think the way to do it is to switch to track mode, and then pressing and holding ESC button until it displays "ESC and TC off" on screen .
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RafGTS (05-14-2024)
Old 05-14-2024, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RafGTS

Thanks.
My settings on the MCS 2WNR are C=5 R=10.


“Curious, that's quite a bit lower compression than I'd think. I've basically watched through MotoIQ series of videos, and the drive was starting to get bumpy in settings after 8”



Thanks for the link. Lots of good info. No particular reason for my settings other than Ciccio didn’t want to share any recommendations so I used what MCS listed as initial settings and started to move up slowly from there. The only track I really felt the suspension was significantly underperforming compared to my previous cars was the bus stop at WGI where the C8 gets unstable after the first apex and make me significantly slower through the following two turns. I was going to continue to adjust for it at my next event there.



”Also found a review on Paragon rotor rings:
https://www.gtrlife.com/threads/para...tested.321176/

Does anyone know any other manufacturers also producing spares? Also, any info on Paragon brakes?”

- I bought their replacement rings a few weeks ago as a backup set but the AP rings are still OK so I will report back later.



Re: NPP actuators. I also get error codes that I have to clear every track day. They squeak more now than before. I’m curious if the new actuators will fix the issue for you. Did GM rev the part number?
Old 05-14-2024, 09:13 PM
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I've also found a cost-effective splitter option to balance the larger wing. These splitters are the first to go if you put the wheels off so I didn't want to spend $1000s. I've tested the AVL splitter at two events and it's held up very well. The installation takes a few hours but you can't beat the price and apparently, the company has been in business for a while, although focusing on the Mustang platform.

https://liquivinyl.com/collections/f...xoC7N0QAvD_BwE

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Old Yesterday, 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by RafGTS
Originally Posted by RafGTS
.....

- I bought their replacement rings a few weeks ago as a backup set but the AP rings are still OK so I will report back later.



Re: NPP actuators. I also get error codes that I have to clear every track day. They squeak more now than before. I’m curious if the new actuators will fix the issue for you. Did GM rev the part number?
Rotors: I'd love to hear your thoughts on the rotors and see how they hold up; please make sure you do report : )
NPP actuators: I have added spacers as I showed in pics on both sides, but I only replaced the actuator on the driver side, and left the old one on the passenger side. I did do a track day yesterday. The check engine light came ONCE, and it was for the older actuator I've left on the passenger side. There has been no code from the replaced side. The actuator flaps squeak as usual, but I suppose that's expected, since the squeak is coming from inside the exhaust (you can make the same squeak by moving the flap with your hand). The part number for the new unit is same as the old one as well, so I don't think there's been a change. Anyway, I'm no longer getting the code from the replaced side, and I'll replace the other side as well over the weekend; I'm happy : )


SR21 pads and updated ones
I checked the part numbers, and both the pads on the car and my spare kit have the same part number: BE2167. I've also ordered a new set that I've received, with batch number BA4141. Considering my spare set was old batch number as well, and I've already had quite a bit of wear on the new pad after just one more track day, I will take them out now. I will reach out to EBC and ask if they can replace my spare set as well as the set I used on the car with the new batch. If they can send me the parts in a few days, I can test them out the weekend of May 24th.



This is the state of the pads after just one more track day. The orientation is exactly as how they were installed on the car (i.e. left corner of the car had the pads on the left corner, with inner pad on the inner side). The outer pad of the driver front is the newly replaced one from my spare set, which is why it's a bit bigger than the others. I've also put on brand new pads next to them for reference.


Front pad


Rear pad


The pad I recently bought' it was delivered last week. It has BA4141 batch number, and looks a bit dirtier than other spares.


The one on the left is the new batch, while the one on the right is the old batch (from my spare set). Observe the difference in material color and composition. Clearly, there's something different in its compound with no shiny particles in the new batch.




Inner shoulder wear on tires
After one more track day, the wear is becoming a bit more clear as well. There's more inner shoulder wear than outer shoulder wear, and this is most pronounced at the rears, and especially on the driver side. Makes me think the rear camber is far too much (unless there's another reason causing it). In many many years of going to track with various cars, this has never happened : ) FYI, the camber values are -3.5 Front, -2.8 Rear.



Rear right


Rear left


Front right


Front left



It's clearly a bigger problem at the rear. I wonder if I should pull the numbers back to -3 / -2, or if I should still leave a bit more than -3 up front and/or -2.3 or so at the rear. I will need to decide before Monday since I'll get the alignment then.



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