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I’ll be installing the Sanderson short tube headers and running them on my car.
BULLSHIT! No bloody way you can live with this!
We have never met in person, most likely never will.
But we've been chatting on here for awhile now and I know you can't live with that!
Your a stubborn old Mule!
BULLSHIT! No bloody way you can live with this!
We have never met in person, most likely never will.
But we've been chatting on here for awhile now and I know you can't live with that!
Your a stubborn old Mule!
You are soooo right.
I don’t know if I’m more of a stubborn old mule or just and old fool.
You do have me pegged though.
Yesterday I mounted the short tube headers with regret.
Stood back, looked at them and they just didn’t feel right.
So I went on line and ordered another set of Hooker Super Comps.
I figured there was just enough variation between the first and second set, that maybe with the third set I would get lucky.
Either way, I decided there is a way to make them fit without hitting the idler arm.
I will make them fit and I’ll do it in a way they look like they were made that way.
In my search yesterday I actually read in several different forums, Chevy Ford, Mopar, where Hooker actually manufacturers their new headers complete with dents for clearance.
I already reached out to both American Racing Headers and Lemons.
Lemons does not make a header for a 73 big block Corvette.
They do make a set of racing headers and won’t guarantee fit on my 73 big block street car, $1950.00-$4200.00
American Racing Headers do not make a set of headers for a 73 big block, only 68-72 and they won’t guarantee fit on my 73 big block, $1600.00-$1700.00, bare stainless.
If you ceramic coat or paint them it voids the warranty and they cannot be returned for any reason.
You are soooo right.
I don’t know if I’m more of a stubborn old mule or just and old fool.
You do have me pegged though.
Yesterday I mounted the short tube headers with regret.
Stood back, looked at them and they just didn’t feel right.
So I went on line and ordered another set of Hooker Super Comps.
I figured there was just enough variation between the first and second set, that maybe with the third set I would get lucky.
Either way, I decided there is a way to make them fit without hitting the idler arm.
I will make them fit and I’ll do it in a way they look like they were made that way.
In my search yesterday I actually read in several different forums, Chevy Ford, Mopar, where Hooker actually manufacturers their new headers complete with dents for clearance.
I already reached out to both American Racing Headers and Lemons.
Lemons does not make a header for a 73 big block Corvette.
They do make a set of racing headers and won’t guarantee fit on my 73 big block street car, $1950.00-$4200.00
American Racing Headers do not make a set of headers for a 73 big block, only 68-72 and they won’t guarantee fit on my 73 big block, $1600.00-$1700.00, bare stainless.
If you ceramic coat or paint them it voids the warranty and they cannot be returned for any reason.
Perhaps more worrying is the current lack of the larger tube diameters irrespective of brand for BB Vette's - it seems the only large tube headers now are made by Dougs.......and they are side-mounts, arguably a potential HP 'bandit' unless minimal muffling is employed?
I can't think of a single thing that is different on a 72 vs 73 BB C3 that would make a difference in header fit.
Body height, sill height, fan shroud, etc. etc yes. But headers no way.
I would guess they just haven't tested it and confirmed it. I would call them if interested enough.
I did call them and the person I talked with at American Racing Headers was not very friendly over the phone.
He said I could buy a set for a 73, but their policy states that if I did buy a set designed for a 72 and they did not fit my 73, there was a 20% restocking fee and return shipping was on me.
It already kills me that the Hookers are $1088.00 and I have to modify them to fit.
I’d run the shorty headers before I’d spend $1700.00.
I did call them and the person I talked with at American Racing Headers was not very friendly over the phone.
He said I could buy a set for a 73, but their policy states that if I did buy a set designed for a 72 and they did not fit my 73, there was a 20% restocking fee and return shipping was on me.
It already kills me that the Hookers are $1088.00 and I have to modify them to fit.
I’d run the shorty headers before I’d spend $1700.00.
And with that kind of policy can you imagine the costs involved if I was order something here in the UK from one of these USA based suppliers? - in fact some of the larger parts houses that ship in bigger number to the UK do get things wrong occasionally and will send the wrong or a faulty part........if established its their fault (and presumably not a high value item) they are known to ship the correct item at their cost and tell you to dispose the wrong item!..........can't see that happening with expensive headers though?
And with that kind of policy can you imagine the costs involved if I was order something here in the UK from one of these USA based suppliers? - in fact some of the larger parts houses that ship in bigger number to the UK do get things wrong occasionally and will send the wrong or a faulty part........if established its their fault (and presumably not a high value item) they are known to ship the correct item at their cost and tell you to dispose the wrong item!..........can't see that happening with expensive headers though?
What bothers me about the cost for a set of headers is that their cost to manufacture a set, even just one set, is probably 1/4 the price they are changing.
If they are doing several sets on an assembly line process that cost probably drops to more like 1/8th.
Is there a restocking fee if you order a set for your 72 instead, and it still doesn't fit?
I wouldn't force myself to do business when someone doesn't want my money, but I am curious what difference they think exists.
That’s why the shorty headers are still sitting in their box on the shelf.
Buy the headers uncoated. Have them massaged so they fit then get them coated inside and out locally.
I understand the frustration but we know it doesn't impact performance like the shorties will.
In the long run you will be happier. I'm loving my new engine and it's much stronger then the 496 it replaced.
One of these days I hope to see your completed project.
Buy the headers uncoated. Have them massaged so they fit then get them coated inside and out locally.
I understand the frustration but we know it doesn't impact performance like the shorties will.
In the long run you will be happier. I'm loving my new engine and it's much stronger then the 496 it replaced.
One of these days I hope to see your completed project.
Unfortunately the hookers only come ceramic coated, but I can get them re coated if I need to.
Unfortunately the hookers only come ceramic coated, but I can get them re coated if I need to.
Get the 2" hedmans painted version then do what was stated above - clearance them where needed then get them coated. thats what I have done for my car.
Pat
Get the 2" hedmans painted version then do what was stated above - clearance them where needed then get them coated. thats what I have done for my car.
Pat
I originally bought the 2” primary tube Hedman’s and they hit the steering box, and the frame rail on the passenger side.
I would have had to do some dinging to get them to fit, where the Hookers only contact the idler arm.
I would rather go with just one small spot to clearance than several spots.
Today I received the third set of Hookers and I’m done trying to make a set of Hookers fit my car.
On both the drivers and passengers sides the bottom of the head flanges hit the tops of the head bolts.
Plus the passenger side header hit the idler arm worse than the other two sets.
So for the price of these headers I don’t want to take the chance of messing them up.
I packed them up and returned them to Summit Racing.
I called Hedman and ordered a set of their uncoated headers.
Summit has them on sale for $300.00.
When I receive them I hope to modify them as necessary, have them silver ceramic coated and run them.
Through the posts here and what I found on the original set of Hedman headers I purchased, the interference at the steering box and frame rails was slight and easily correctable.
Since the set I just ordered are not already coated, I plan to heat the primary tubes and massage the metal for clearance instead of pounding them with a hammer so they will look nice after they are ceramic coated.
I drove over to the speed/machine shop to pick up some new parts and to have them check out the new Jeep head.
I returned a set of rotors to Napa Auto and got home just when my new Hedman headers arrived.
I knew they wouldn’t fit but except for a slight dimple at the steering box and one at the passenger side frame rail they were perfect.
The fit was much better than the Hookers.
Now I’ll just research what the best method for dimpling them is, get it done, get them ceramic coated and be done.
I have been trying to find a set of long tube headers to fit my 73 big block Corvette without modifying, dinging or denting them.
To date I’ve tried both Hedman and Hooker headers and found neither fit without interference.
I ended up purchasing a set of un-coated bare Hedman Headers, part number 68090, for the cost of $309.00 from Summit Racing.
The headers have 2” primary tubes and 3” collectors.
After searching numerous forums I came up with a way to modify the primary tubes without banging dents into them with a hammer.
I purchased a propane torch from Harbor Freight for $29.00 and a baseball bat from Big 5 Sporting Goods for $39.00.
The propane torch would not heat the tubing to cherry red, but it did heat it enough to make it more easy to manipulate.
Once the tube was as hot as it could get, I rolled the baseball bat back and forth while tapping the bat with a hand sledgehammer until the curved edge of the tubing became flat.
I test fit the header and continued to manipulate the tubing until the flattened area provided the clearance needed.
I had to clearance the drivers side a little more than I wanted to clear the steering box but now I have almost 1/2” between it and the primary tube.
Just flattening the primary tube on the passenger side provided about 1/2” clearance between it and the frame.
I also flattened one of the tubes on the passenger side header to give additional clearance between it and the starter.
I am happy with how the headers turned out, and now I will get them ceramic coated.
My headers should be that close as well. But I will be using a Borgeson box so there will be fluid running thru the box.
That should help cool the box.
But the fluid will heat up, so I guess I may need to add a PS cooler to get rid of the heat.
Hmmm...
03-23-2024, 05:07 AM
