Time Saver for Anti-Sway Bar Installation.
09-24-2005, 11:53 PM
#1
Racer
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Time Saver for Anti-Sway Bar Installation.
If you got the Z-51 anti-sway bar upgrades for your stock C6 from Fred Beans or one of the other vendors, I can save you a little time.
For the front, you'll need a 13 mm socket for the interior mounts, and an 18 mm socket and an 18 mm open end for the ends. Once you try turning the end nuts, the whole assembly will spin and you can stop it with the 18 mm open end on the inside. It is cut for that. They even have paint marks so you can get the new sway bar in there square. Cool.
On the back, you'll need an 18 mm socket (deep if you have it), and a 15 mm box end. The interior mounts hook into the aluminum and then into a lower a-arm bushing and you'll have to put the 15 mm on the back side of the bolt to hold it still. Same thing as the front applies to the ends. You'll need that 18 mm socket and an 18 mm open end.
Took about 20 minutes to do each end -- plus a little goofing off admiring the way that suspension is in there. I'd love to put that under my 57 Chevy.
Gregg.
For the front, you'll need a 13 mm socket for the interior mounts, and an 18 mm socket and an 18 mm open end for the ends. Once you try turning the end nuts, the whole assembly will spin and you can stop it with the 18 mm open end on the inside. It is cut for that. They even have paint marks so you can get the new sway bar in there square. Cool.
On the back, you'll need an 18 mm socket (deep if you have it), and a 15 mm box end. The interior mounts hook into the aluminum and then into a lower a-arm bushing and you'll have to put the 15 mm on the back side of the bolt to hold it still. Same thing as the front applies to the ends. You'll need that 18 mm socket and an 18 mm open end.
Took about 20 minutes to do each end -- plus a little goofing off admiring the way that suspension is in there. I'd love to put that under my 57 Chevy.
Gregg.
09-25-2005, 02:54 PM
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Making CFOT Great Again
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09-26-2005, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jim2092
I just printed your post as I am doing my install of Z51 bars on my F55 on Tues.
09-27-2005, 11:41 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by SCModerator
If you got the Z-51 anti-sway bar upgrades for your stock C6 from Fred Beans or one of the other vendors, I can save you a little time.
For the front, you'll need a 13 mm socket for the interior mounts, and an 18 mm socket and an 18 mm open end for the ends. Once you try turning the end nuts, the whole assembly will spin and you can stop it with the 18 mm open end on the inside. It is cut for that. They even have paint marks so you can get the new sway bar in there square. Cool.
On the back, you'll need an 18 mm socket (deep if you have it), and a 15 mm box end. The interior mounts hook into the aluminum and then into a lower a-arm bushing and you'll have to put the 15 mm on the back side of the bolt to hold it still. Same thing as the front applies to the ends. You'll need that 18 mm socket and an 18 mm open end.
Took about 20 minutes to do each end -- plus a little goofing off admiring the way that suspension is in there. I'd love to put that under my 57 Chevy.
Gregg.
For the front, you'll need a 13 mm socket for the interior mounts, and an 18 mm socket and an 18 mm open end for the ends. Once you try turning the end nuts, the whole assembly will spin and you can stop it with the 18 mm open end on the inside. It is cut for that. They even have paint marks so you can get the new sway bar in there square. Cool.
On the back, you'll need an 18 mm socket (deep if you have it), and a 15 mm box end. The interior mounts hook into the aluminum and then into a lower a-arm bushing and you'll have to put the 15 mm on the back side of the bolt to hold it still. Same thing as the front applies to the ends. You'll need that 18 mm socket and an 18 mm open end.
Took about 20 minutes to do each end -- plus a little goofing off admiring the way that suspension is in there. I'd love to put that under my 57 Chevy.
Gregg.
Great info and thanks; however, one question I still have before I try this: do the front and/or rear wheels have to be off the ground when you're changing the front or rear sway bar? Or, can the car be on the ground or on ramps?
Thanks,
Sal
09-27-2005, 11:50 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by purple heart
Gregg:
Great info and thanks; however, one question I still have before I try this: do the front and/or rear wheels have to be off the ground when you're changing the front or rear sway bar? Or, can the car be on the ground or on ramps?
Thanks,
Sal
Great info and thanks; however, one question I still have before I try this: do the front and/or rear wheels have to be off the ground when you're changing the front or rear sway bar? Or, can the car be on the ground or on ramps?
Thanks,
Sal
09-27-2005, 11:59 PM
#8
Racer
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I have two floor jacks. For the front I put them on either side of the car at the jacking points and jack it up that way (chocking the back wheels, of course). I raised the front end high enough off the ground to give me enough clearance to crawl under. So the tires were probably an inch off the ground. But I think there is plenty of play in the system if it were on ramps. You'll see. You might also want to use jack stands as a safety feature if your floor jacks are flakey.
For the back, I used a floor jack in the center under the rear end and raised it just until the tires were unloaded, but not off the ground. I think ramps would be fine back there too.
There's a two way articulating connection that goes between a-arm and the end of the anti-sway bar. I've seen pictures posted of people unhooking it at the lower a-arm -- that's really an unnecessary step. I had no trouble with unbolting directly from the end of the anti-sway bar, but you definitely want that 18 mm open end to help you here. Have enough light so you can see what I mean. Don't get in a hurry and get out the vise grips, I think you'd regret that. The nuts are lockers, so you'll have to crank them all the way off and then all the way back on. Put the nut back on each end loose as you place the new anti-sway bar, then hook up the middle. It will all move enough to allow that.
If you are small enough to crawl under the front or back without jacking it up, go for it, I think you could make this change. I'm too big to do that.
I thought this was really easy and I imagine when you are done, you'll think so too.
Gregg.
For the back, I used a floor jack in the center under the rear end and raised it just until the tires were unloaded, but not off the ground. I think ramps would be fine back there too.
There's a two way articulating connection that goes between a-arm and the end of the anti-sway bar. I've seen pictures posted of people unhooking it at the lower a-arm -- that's really an unnecessary step. I had no trouble with unbolting directly from the end of the anti-sway bar, but you definitely want that 18 mm open end to help you here. Have enough light so you can see what I mean. Don't get in a hurry and get out the vise grips, I think you'd regret that. The nuts are lockers, so you'll have to crank them all the way off and then all the way back on. Put the nut back on each end loose as you place the new anti-sway bar, then hook up the middle. It will all move enough to allow that.
If you are small enough to crawl under the front or back without jacking it up, go for it, I think you could make this change. I'm too big to do that.
I thought this was really easy and I imagine when you are done, you'll think so too.
Gregg.
Last edited by SCModerator; 09-28-2005 at 12:12 AM.
09-28-2005, 08:54 AM
#10
Safety Car
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Originally Posted by SCModerator
... you'll need a 13 mm socket ... an 18 mm socket and an 18 mm open end ....
On the back, you'll need an 18 mm socket (deep if you have it), and a 15 mm box end. ...
Gregg.
On the back, you'll need an 18 mm socket (deep if you have it), and a 15 mm box end. ...
Gregg.
obtw: thanks for the tip, it sure would have taking a little bit trying to find the right sizes using the 'old english tools'.
09-28-2005, 11:53 AM
#11
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08
Originally Posted by jim2092
I just printed your post as I am doing my install of Z51 bars on my F55 on Tues.
I did this mod last winter and found like some other early posters, that if you remove the front bar and the uprights from the car, it is easier to work with. Just remove the uprights from the bar on your workbench or garage floor and reinstall them on the new bar before putting the new bar and old uprights back on the car.
I tried to take the bar off and leave the uprights in place on the front and this does not work well at all. There is not enough room to work.
There are a bunch of early posts on this great mod.
good luck.
Jim
09-28-2005, 06:35 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by anothercrisis
I did this mod last winter and found like some other early posters, that if you remove the front bar and the uprights from the car, it is easier to work with. Just remove the uprights from the bar on your workbench or garage floor and reinstall them on the new bar before putting the new bar and old uprights back on the car.
I tried to take the bar off and leave the uprights in place on the front and this does not work well at all. There is not enough room to work.
There are a bunch of early posts on this great mod.
good luck.
Jim
I tried to take the bar off and leave the uprights in place on the front and this does not work well at all. There is not enough room to work.
There are a bunch of early posts on this great mod.
good luck.
Jim
I question some of the posts which claim that they replaced both front and rear sway bars in 30 minutes. This seems impossible to me since it took me about 4 hours. Maybe I'm the world's slowest mechanic.
09-28-2005, 06:55 PM
#14
Go big or don't go...
Originally Posted by jim2092
I just printed your post as I am doing my install of Z51 bars on my F55 on Tues.
Please post your thoughts, as I would love to drive that combo - F55/Sport/Z51 Sways - I think that is the right approach for commuting/daily driving. A6 would be nice as well.....if I had to commute I'd get a coupe with compgrey, a6, F55/Z51 Sway's....mmmmmm. Not sure what the exterior color would be - maybe yella as I already have a DSOM vert.
JK
09-28-2005, 10:37 PM
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Racer
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Originally Posted by anothercrisis
I did this mod last winter and found like some other early posters, that if you remove the front bar and the uprights from the car, it is easier to work with. Just remove the uprights from the bar on your workbench or garage floor and reinstall them on the new bar before putting the new bar and old uprights back on the car.
I tried to take the bar off and leave the uprights in place on the front and this does not work well at all. There is not enough room to work.
There are a bunch of early posts on this great mod.
good luck.
Jim
I tried to take the bar off and leave the uprights in place on the front and this does not work well at all. There is not enough room to work.
There are a bunch of early posts on this great mod.
good luck.
Jim
Zig, most American cars started going metric in the mid-70's. I think they're all that way now. The only vehicle produced today in the US that's SAE are big tractors and semi-trailers. That really limits them from being sold in Europe, and you're seeing other companies like Volvo, Mercedes, Mitsubishi and Scania creeping into the US big truck market. Well, Volvo didn't creep, they invaded. Nothing wrong with owning two sets of sockets or wrenches -- sometimes they're handy for the other if something is a little worn and you need a half size.
JK, I like the way the car handles now versus before. Seems a little tighter in the corners, you can push it just a little harder. I can't tell there's a ride difference. Not any harsher at all...
Gregg.
Last edited by SCModerator; 09-28-2005 at 10:45 PM.
