VetVetter

I got the nix on paying someone to paint them for me ... not a battle to fight over ... so - DIY ....

Thanks for the info NX100 btw

What type of paint (i.e., should it be heat resistant, etc) should I use to do it myself ??

Thanks gang!

dshaner1

I was wondering the same thing.....I clean mine with Armour All and I am a little concerned with the paint sticking. Are you going to do any sort of prep work? Do you think the paint will adhere OK?

Also, another question....should any sort of clear coat be used to make it appear similar to the shine of the exterior paint?

VetVetter

I was going to clean mine with a paint thinner - terpentine, then lightly sand (medium to fine grit). This should clean the armor all off and prep it fine. I was thinking of a clear coat as well.

Anyone with advice on paint and clear coat types?

VetVetter

Perhaps if I change the title:

WHAT TYPE OF PAINT SHOULD I PURCHASE FROM A VENDOR FROM THIS SITE???


Sorry, couldn't resist .... sarcastic humour by the way to bump this to the top.

PJinNJ

Buy the plastic primer from HD and then get the paint from anywhere but a forum vendor until we get a response to the issue.

VetVetter

Cool. So definitely prime it? Do I need to worry about the heat in the engine compartment? Regular autopaint with gloss is fine?

Thanks

dashotgun

I used VHT( on a turbo supra see picture below) a branded paint for brakes it is an epoxy mix. Turbo cars run hotter then an NA I used a cermaic hi temp primer from auto zone

VetVetter

Cool .... I got the go-ahead to possible get it done custom if its not to pricey ... otherwise I'll go this way

Thanks for help and nice car!

Kays C6

I've been thinking about the same thing - DIY or pay someone else. What if you used auto paint? It's painted on the inside of your hood (although covered by a liner) and on the car body in the engine compartment. I don't know that much about paint, but what kinds of temperatures do you see on fuel rail covers? What about in the engine compartment? What kinds of temps can regular auto body paint handle? I'm thinking of going to the junk yard and finding (maybe) a wrecked vette or something that has some sort of plastic that I can practice on. I'm really nervous about sanding and painting without a little practice first. My husband seems to think with an air compressor and a paint gun that he could make it look good (he used to paint so has experience with that stuff).

XKR100

Guys,sand it smooth.Primer and sand.Use car paint(any brand ie.PPG or Dupont) as many coats as you want and lay a good coat of clear.Wet sand with very fine sand paper and buff it out just like your cars paint.You don't need heat resistant paint NEVER used it on 3 cars and NEVER had any problems ever. Jerry

cerino2000

You don't need any special paint. I have seen guys do it with spray cans and have it look pretty good.

leahy

use Griot's high-temp paint. you don't want it to start peeling, or worse, catch fire! for the lighter and cooler areas you could use some touchup paint.

MADinAK

No special paint is needed - high temp or otherwise.

I did mine two years ago. Sanded, primed, and painted with several coats followed with several coats of clear. I had them sitting on my work bench and never did the final sand and polish. I installed because I was afraid they would get scratched. Maybe this year...... I used 000 or 0000 steel wool between coats and cleaned with a tack cloth after that. Also did my door handles in comp grey to match my wheels.

Mez

Any good quality paint probably is find but Kylon makes a paint for plastic branded "Fusion". I used that on my intake manifold and it seems to be working fine. Available everywhere.

More important than the type or brand of paint is the preparation.

First, clean all the oil, silicone (Armorall) with dish washing detergent like Dawn.

Next, horoughly sand with 320 or 400 wet/dry sand paper or as I prefer a red Scotch Bright. Get in all the creases and cracks. Wash it again, dry it off, then wipe it down with denatured alcohol or paint prep. This last step is very important as you do not want any film on the plastic surface. Do not use mineral spirits, paint thinner, lacquer thinner as they will leave a film.

Although Fusion says no primer is necessary, a light coat will be good. They sell primer or adhesion promoters for plastic. Then apply multiple light coats of paint in long, smooth strokes. Don't lay it on heavy. Give each coat enough time to 'flash' or dry to the touch. Put on just enough coats to hide the original color. Let it dry overnight, then use 600 grit whet/dry sand paper to get out any dust nibs or rough finish. One more light coat to get it smooth. Let it dry. Optional: 2-3 coats of clear if you like. Thinner coats is best. Do it in a garage where temperature is about 70-75 degrees if important to allow proper drying. Read the instructions on the can on drying time between recoats.

In the end, you don't want a too heavy paint thickness because the plastic and paint will expand/contract at different rates with temperature and eventually a think paint can crack.

099blancoss

+1

filmjay

Just finished my covers and intercooler cowl in VY yesterday. I bought 2 spray cans of Velocity Yellow from AutomotiveFinishes.com. They custom load the spray cans with an actual automotive spray mix. A tad pricey for spray cans...but it IS actual automotive color, and they seem to give you more color for your money compared to some of the other spray manufacturers.
(I know Dupli-Color only puts 3-4 oz. of color in their cans. These felt like at least 6 oz of color was in there. A single can did 5-6 coats on my covers and intercooler cowl...that's pretty awesome for a spray can. I'll definitely buy more from that site.)

Can't post a link since they're not a sponsor here...but that's the best route to go to get the best color match.

I masked first, scuffed with the green scrubby side of a clean dish sponge, and used Dupli-Color Adhesion Promoter before spraying. Then clear. All total was 5-6 coats of color, 3 coats of clear. ( I used Dupli-Color clear and ran out after three coats on each piece. Should've bought the Automotive Touchup clear as well, but oh well. I already had it.)

The Adhesion Promoter is good, cheap, and common but it is a clear primer. If you're using a bright color, like red or yellow, I'd recommend a white primer to cut paint expense from multiple coats. I feel like a white primer would have cut two coats of color out.

Anyway....DO IT YOURSELF!!! It's cheap and easy. And you get the "I did it" feeling once it's done and looks awesome.

MACowley

Looks fantastic....how did you do the lettering??? After the base silver was applied?? With a brush??? I'm really wanting to do my rail covers....and really like how yours are looking. Would actually be doing mine exact opposite of yours, silver letters, and red covers.

Thanks
MAC

Don 79 TA

eastwood has a prep cleaner that you should use
removes waxes, dirt, oil, etc
great stuff to use

Joe_G

I painted mine 5 years ago with Rustoleum plastic paint from HD. $3. Cleaned them with paint thinner first.

Still looks great.

A couple of weeks ago.



5 years ago.

MACowley

After looking at these pictures again, I was wondering if anyone knows.....are the lettering "Corvette" on these the same as the rear bumper....on a C-6. Might be easier to just buy a set of the stick on letters in chrome, or silver, if they are the same, and will fit in the indentations.

Thanks!!
MAC