Originally Posted by bob 57 chevy

I have an 05 with MN6 and had several DBS (Dead Battery Syndrome) episodes. The car has been to the dealer twice with no resolution. On one trip the dealer replaced the battery but the new one went dead in just a few days. Then I tried the following procedure originally posted by Hoosose. Since then I have not had a single dead battery.

Perform a normal shut down with the shifter in reverse. Then move the shifter to neutral. If the car is actually shut down you should not see a message on the DIC. If the DIC says “shift to reverse” then move the shifter back to reverse and try again. After the car is properly shut down and the shifter has been moved to neutral you can shift to any gear.

BTW, I have never seen "shift to reverse" after moving the shifter to neutral, but others have. Nonetheless the problem has stopped. So even if you don't get a message on the DIC when shifting to neutral this action seems to force the shutdown to complete.

Please send me a private message if this does or doesn’t solve your problem. If it does solve the problem for you, like it has for me, I will find a way to get that information back to the proper people at GM.

Thanks for helping,

Bob

Originally Posted by theadmiral94

In Other Words -- how to lift and support your C5 per the GM Manual

This article will translate and document the GM Manual’s procedures for lifting and supporting a C5 (based on a 2000) and clearly define the distinction between a ‘hydraulic jack’ and where it can be placed -- versus -- ‘jack stands’ and where they can be placed.

This is not to say other suggested procedures would not work without damage.

However, after struggling through so many different suggested procedures and the manual, I decided to put this together to help the next 'new to them' owner of a C5.

The goal of this write-up is to accurately convey the GM Manual’s information so anyone can determine if a suggested procedure deviates from GM recommendations.

This information is taken from GM’s 2000 Service Manual, Volume 1 of 3, General Information, pages 0-33.

I should also credit two other websites for their information, upon which some of this article is based :
The Idaho Corvette Page and Z06vette.com

First, to identify some large differences between many suggested procedures and what the GM’s manual recommends. The GM Manual states or implies:

1. ‘Jack Stands’ should NOT be placed under the ‘frame rails’ (regardless of whether ‘hockey pucks’ are used or not).

2. A ‘hydraulic jack’ should NOT be placed directly under the CENTER of the ‘OPTIONAL’ front cross-member. The ‘Optional’ Front cross-member is FORWARD of the front fiberglass transverse spring and is the ‘optional’ front location for a ‘hydraulic jack’. By contrast, the ‘PREFERRED’ front location is to the REAR of the fiberglass transverse spring, immediately forward of the oil pan. This 'PREFERRED' cross-member can have a 'hydraulic Jack' placed directly under the center, however, doing so will most likely contact and may damage the oil pan/oil drain plug, so it is NOT advisable either.

3. A ‘hydraulic jack’ should NOT be placed directly under the CENTER of the rear cross-member to raise the rear of the car.

4. ‘Hockey Pucks’ should NOT be used at the FRONT Frame Rail location when lifting the car with a ‘service lift’. The presumably larger flat rectangular ‘service lift’ ‘pad’ is to be placed with its long side parallel with and at or immediately forward of the front ‘hockey puck’ AREA (note: this also assures a slightly higher rear end for proper oil draining from the oil pan).


Now on to what can be done.

First of all, here is the Service Manual’s vehicle diagram of the “Vehicle Lifting and Jacking Locations” (note: Jacking is NOT ‘Jack Stands’):

personal home page Lifting & Jacking Locations

The Service Manual has 3 sections within the ‘Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle section’. These sections can be easily switched and thereby confusing.

The FIRST SECTION is ‘Vehicle Lifting – Frame Contact Hoist’ (i.e. a ‘service lift’). This section clarifies the use of the ‘hockey pucks’ (special part # J43625) ONLY for the REAR, to be installed in the ‘rear frame rail shipping slots’. The presumably larger flat rectangular ‘service lift’ ‘pad’ is to be placed with its long side parallel with and at or immediately forward of the front ‘hockey puck’ AREA (without a ‘hockey puck’) AND not touching the body panels.

The SECOND SECTION ‘Vehicle Jacking’ (‘Hydraulic Jack’, not to be confused with ‘Jack Stands’ or a ‘service lift’) implies the use of ‘hockey pucks’ front and rear by specifying the use of “2 ½ inch or smaller diameter lifting pads when ‘jacking’ the car via the ‘frame rails’.

For the FRONT, this ‘Vehicle Jacking’ section continues to specify the ‘Preferred’ Front Suspension cross-member as the one behind the fiberglass transverse spring, immediately forward of the oil pan. This cross-member can be lifted anywhere along its width (center to 13” off-center), with the preferred location at the outer 7 ½ inches (and in the middle of that outer 7 ½ inches). Note, the usage of the ‘Preferred’ cross-member may make oil changes difficult as the cross member is more narrow at the center where it comes very close to the oil drain plug.

Further specified in this ‘Vehicle Jacking’ section is that the Front ‘Optional’ front cross-member should only be lifted at the outer 5 ½ inches of the overall 26 inch cross-member’s length and NOT in the center (when you look at the cross-member, you will understand why).

For the REAR, Similarly specified is that a ‘hydraulic Jack’ should NOT be placed in the center, it should only be placed at the outer and rearward sweeping 5 ½ inches (of the overall 26 inch length cross-member) (again, when you look at the cross-member and how it supports the body, you will understand why).

The THIRD SECTION ‘Supporting the Vehicle with Jack Stands’ first notes “Important: Do not place jack stands under the frame rails”.

It further specifies that ‘Jack Stands’ should only be placed under the outer areas of the three previously mentioned cross-members. Also, a ‘block or pad’ should be placed between the jack stands and the vehicle. Lastly, make sure the ‘jack stands’ ‘block or pad’ span at least 2 cross-member ribs (i.e. side to side thin aluminum ridge).


Some Personal notes/thoughts:

The cast aluminum cross-members should only be lifted with specially constructed wood ‘pads’ to prevent damage and possible cracking.

The car’s underbody is very low. There is only approximately 3½ inches clearance below the front air dam, and only about 5 inches below most of the underbody, cross-members and side rails.

This low clearance creates a requirement for front and rear drive-on ramps with a minimum of 3” of lift to gain clearance to the cross-members for ‘jacking’ with specially constructed wood ‘pads’ and a low-profile hydraulic jack (e.g. #0950240 from Sears with 3¾” to 18½” lifting range). Always first lift the front, otherwise there will not be enough clearance to do so after lifting the rear.


Now on to what you can make out of wood to comply with the GM Service Manual.

Here's a link to pictures of the home-made items:

Wood Ramps and Hydraulic Lifting Pads


Home Made Wood Ramps:

§ Two 12 foot 2” x 12”
§ One 8 foot 2” x 3”
§ One box of #10 x 3” wood screws

Front: cut off 1’ from the worse end of the first 2” x 12” and set aside. Then cut two 3 ½’ and two 2’ sections.

Rear: cut off 1’ from both ends of the other 2” x 12”, then cut two 3’ and two 2’ sections.

Both: cut eight 12” lengths for stop-blocks from the 2” x 3”. Four are for placing behind the tires after driving onto the ramps.

Cut a 30 degree angle on one end of each of the ten 2” x 12” sections. This can be done with a table-saw set at 30 degrees and each board held vertical (standing up) while passing between the guide and another guide/piece of wood (I used the first 1’ section set aside, clamped to the table).

Otherwise, if you only have a hand-held electric circular saw (which cannot cut the proper 30 degree angle on a vertical end as when set flat on the board, its 30 degree setting will actually cut a 60 degree ramp instead), then instead just cut a 45 degree angle on one end of each of the ten 2” x 12” sections.

Assemble front ramps: 12” 2”x3” stop-block on square end of 2’ 2”x12” on top of 3 ½’ 2” x 12”. Pre-drill and screw together (2 screws for stop-block, 4 screws for 2’ to 3½‘).

Assemble rear ramps: 12” 2”x3” stop-block on square end of 2’ 2”x12” on top of 3’ 2” x 12”. Pre-drill and screw together. The two additional 1’ 2” x 12” sections are for placing under the tires after jacking to elevate the rear for proper oil draining. However, there may not be sufficient clearance to driver all the way off of the 3 levels, so you could roll off the 3rd level, then remove the 3rd level board before continuing down off the rest of the rear ramps.

Usage: Place the FRONT ramps with the stop block where you want the front tires to end up. Pull car just up to the ramp incline. Push the ramps up against the front tires and align the front ramps. Place the REAR ramps 6” in front of the rear tires and align (I use a 6” piece of wood as a spacer against the tire). Back car up without hitting any front mud flaps on rear ramps and accelerate smoothly. The car should hit the front ramp’s 1st level, then the rear ramp’s 1st level, then front and rear ramp’s 2nd levels almost simultaneously. Be sure the car is against the stop-blocks and set parking brake. Then set the four additional stop blocks behind each tire.

NOTE: The front ramps are only 3 ½‘ long to be clear of the ‘hockey puck’ area, in case it is needed for ‘hydraulic Jacking’. The rear ramps are only 3’ and set 6” forward of the rear tire to prevent hitting both ramps at the same time thereby reducing the chance of their movement and insufficient speed to achieve making the 2nd level of both ramps.


Home Made Wood Hydraulic Jack Lifting Pads

Here's a link to pictures of the home-made items:

Wood Ramps and Hydraulic Lifting Pads


§ One 8 foot 2” x 6”
§ One 8 foot 2” x 8”
§ #10 3 inch wood screws

NOTE: The 'optional' Front wood lifting pad may be needed to be able to reach and use the Front 'recommended' cross-member and its wood lifting pad, especially when using the above mentioned 3 inch ramps and the above mentioned Sear's hydraulic jack. (i.e. lift/support at 'optional' cross-member, then lift/support at 'recommended' cross-member for long-term storage or extensive work).

For FRONT ‘Optional’ cross-member: cut two 6” sections, and one 26” section from the 2” x 6”. Assemble each 6” section on top, flush with the ends and parallel with the 26” section. Pre-drill and screw together.

When used on the ‘Optional’ front cross-member (area forward of the fiberglass transverse leaf spring), center the wood (side to side and front to back) with the 6” sections on top against the cross-member and contacting both front and rear ‘RIB’ with the hydraulic jack centered underneath the 26” section. Pre-drill and screw together. This way lifting pressure will NOT be applied under the center of the cross-member, only the ends, as specified by the GM Manual.

For FRONT ‘Recommended’ cross-member: cut two 8” sections and one 26” section from the 2” x 8”. Assemble each 8” section on top, flush with the ends and parallel with the 26” section. Pre-drill and screw together.

When used on the ‘Recommended’ front cross-member (area behind the fiberglass transverse leaf spring and immediately forward of the oil pan), center the wood (side to side and front to back) with the 8” sections on top against the cross-member and contacting both front and rear ‘RIB’, with the hydraulic jack centered underneath the 26” section. This way lifting pressure will NOT be applied to the middle of the cross-member where the wood would overlap the oil pan and oil drain plug. This could also allow still doing the oil change while the wood is in place.

‘Jack Stands’ should only be used with these wood lifting pads, placed underneath the ends of the 26” section on either side of the hydraulic jack (‘Jack Stands’ should NOT be placed under the ‘hockey pucks’ on the frame rails).

For REAR cross-member: Cut two 10” sections and one 26” section from the 2” x 6”. Assemble each 10” section on top, at each end, but perpendicular to the 26” section, somewhat centered, except that 3” should extending rearward of the 26” section, and 1½“ should extending forward of the 26” section (looks like a ‘U’ with downward legs when assembled).

When used on REAR cross-member, center (side to side and front to back) the 26” section on the center of the rear cross-member directly under both ‘ribs’, with the 10” sections upward and against the cross member and pointing rearward so as to ALSO be underneath the cross-member ends which are more rearward (tie-rod ends). Place the hydraulic jack centered underneath the middle of the 26” section. This way lifting pressure will NOT be applied under the center of the cross-member, only the ends, as specified by the GM Service Manual.

‘Jack Stands’ should only be used with this wood lifting pad, placed underneath the ends of the 26” section and centered below the 10” sections on both sides of the hydraulic jack (‘Jack Stands’ should NOT be placed under the ‘hockey pucks’ on the frame rails).

Set the rear ‘jack stands’ one (1) notch higher than the front ‘jack stands’ for a level car.

Set the rear ‘jack stands’ two (2) notches higher than the front ‘jack stands’ when performing an oil change (will level/slightly tip the oil pan to fully drain the oil).

Originally Posted by Vet

Here is a method for jacking and supporting a C6 using ONLY the "preferred" jacking locations. All four wheels off the ground. Lots of room under the car to work (oil changes, etc.) Very secure.

All that's needed are two rolling hydraulic floor jacks, four jack stands, two cross beam adapters and a few planks.

In the photos below, the rolling hydraulic jack used at the front of the car is an AC DK13HLQ low-profile, long-reach jack. It fits just right, reaches the larger front cross member of the car and still sticks out far enough to allow full pumping of lever. Other hydraulic floor jacks may work here, you'll have to experiment.

The cross beam adapters - you'll need two. Only $29.99 each from NorthernTool.com. As shown in photos, the adapter used at the rear of the car can be left stock. The one used at the front of the car must be altered slightly.... just pull off the side extensions and add rubber pads on top of the main center piece at each end.

Note: in order to use the above described cross beam adapter in an AC brand jack, you will need to grind the 1.15" main pin of the adapter down a bit since the hole in AC jacks is only 1.00" (unlike most American jacks which have a 1.130" hole).

Directions:
1. -Get front wheels 2" - 3" above the ground by driving up on some planks

2. -Place jack with "altered" cross beam adapter under front main cross member of car (underneath the PREFERRED jacking locations)... make sure the rubber pads on the adapter touch only the preferred jacking locations... nothing will touch center of cross member

3. - Place two jack stands under the cross beam adapter, directly under the preferred jacking locations, lower weight of car onto stands, leave jack in place for added safety

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for rear of car, except use "stock" cross beam adapter

Car is now off the ground and fully supported by ONLY the "preferred" jacking locations.

Originally Posted by ProfMoriarty

Thanks to some outstanding CF member write ups, I've realized the advantages of utilizing a Nothern Supply beam adapter to lift a C6 at the preferred lift points.

For those of us who own the popular Craftsman aluminum 2 ton floor jack, a little effort is required to use it with the adapter (beyond ramps to elevate the front of the car enough to use the jack in the first place).

In order to remove the lifting pad, remove the split ring from one grooved end of the steel support pin that traverses the jack pad and lifting arms and remove the support pin.

This will expose a hole in the lifting arm that will accommodate the beam adapter pin.

Problem is, without the steel support pin there is no means of operating the jack and with the support pin in place the adapter pin is obstructed.

Choice one: Cut or grind down the adapter pin until 3/8" or less remains so the adapter can rest flat on the jack.

I went with Choice two:

(2) 2 1/2" (measured from the end of the bolt to the contact surface of the head of the bolt) grade 8 hardened 1/2" bolts. These bolts have a non-threaded surface of about 7/8".

Thread a 1/2" nylon locking nut firmly down to the end of the threads;ie: the non-threaded surface. (The nut will protect the proper amount of thread and make cutting simple as well as allow the vise to secure the bolt for cutting without it moving.)

Clamp in a vise and cut off the exposed threads with a carbide or diamond cutting wheel.

Remove the nut, clean up the cut end with a fine file.

Add a 1/2" SAE washer to each bolt, pop 'em into the lifting arm holes, and thread into a 1/2" non-locking nut (nylon locking nuts are too long) with blue thread locker.

Fin!

Originally Posted by Pipedreams

I have access to the GM tech link which is a monthly communication to the GM techs. February has a few C6 items. Some may be old news but this is the first time they are on the GM tech link. Very interesting that they now have software to fix the fuel sender

Originally Posted by Pipedreams

This DYI is designed to stop the dirt and rocks that lodge in the rear fender seam just in front of the rear tire. They are on your car, just go out and look. My main concern is that when detailing or washing the car, one drops into the cloth or wash mitt and I end up dragging a stone across my paint. It appears the problem is due to a large gap in the inner fender liner which allows debris off the tire to enter the inner fender. This is how I fixed it for $5.

I pointed it out to the plant manager when I was at Carlisle, that even a new Z06 with 400 miles had all rocks in the seam. He did not seam to care, and that Z06 was driven by Dave Hill











Press the sticky side in first towards the fender

Originally Posted by leolufse

For those interested in swapping their 2005 steering wheel to a 2006 steering wheel, I figured out how to get the airbag to work. Besides purchasing the 2006 steering wheel (P.N. 15806311) and the 2006 airbag (P.N. 15782157), you also need to purchase the 2006 clockspring coil kit (P.N. 19133742)

The clockspring pictured here:

has the correct connectors that plug into the back of the 2006 airbag.

Do not attempt to simply swap the connectors by snapping the plugs apart. The shape and type of pin is not compatable with the 2005 plugs. It is a simple task to replace the entire clock spring coil. It plugs into the steering column harness pictured here:

You will need to slightly dremel the lip of the steering consol trim to prevent the 2006 steering wheel from rubbing. You can't see this part of the trim with the steering wheel installed. Another pic:


Futher questions please post.

Originally Posted by Larry B.

Those following my flowmaster threads... I was going to take them off today but decided to do a little research on resonator tips... The stock four tips are full of little holes on the inside wall. These ARE indeed resonator tips. I got two four inch long reducers, drilled a lot of little holes in the small diameter, inserted them small end first into the flowmaster tips.. So now it is a double wall type tip.. The annoying drone is COMPLETLY gone. WOW! I could not believe it.. It still has the same sound ....maybe just a little quieter but by very much. I am a tinkerer and love to do things like this. It made my day when I took the car out for a drive. Incredible that the people that make set ups parts cannot come up with simple solutions.
...Thanks for all of the help and advise... I promise no more flowmaster threads.

Originally Posted by Larry B.

I got two 2 1/2" - 2" reducers at Pep Boys but any parts place that carries exhaust stuff should have them.. Get the longest size which will be about four inches. Drill about twenty 3/16" holes in the small diameter and cut a slit the full length of the part. Close the diameter up a little and knock it into the tip of the flowmasters small end towards the muffler. They will go in kinda tight so they won't come back out unless you want to take them out. Leave a little bit so you can get them out if you want to.

Originally Posted by LDB

Though it’s probably safe to assume percentages of MN6 and Z51 are higher on the forum than in overall population, the actual 2005 production numbers are intersting. Let’s try to restrain ourselves from commenting on the lucky so and so percent with such and such option, and simply view it as an indication of how people with free choice, chose to equip their cars.

Z51 41%, Base 35%, F55 24%, MN6 average on all versions 40%, MN6 on Z51 56%, MN6 on base+F55 30%. There were 28% convertibles overall, but the statistics I saw did not break down suspension and transmission by coupe/convertible. Museum delivery was 2%.

The most popular single color was black, 21%, closely followed by silver at 18%. The four different shades of red offered throughout the year totalled 30%, but no individual shade was as high as black or silver. Reds were 15% victory, 9% magnetic, 4% precision, and 2% jewel. Blue was 10%, DSOM 8%, yellow also 8% (6% millenium and 2% velocity), and white 5%.