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C1 Windshield Side Post Tabs - Broken??

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Old 09-26-2012, 04:26 PM
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Doug1964
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Default C1 Windshield Side Post Tabs - Broken??

I have a 1960. How can you tell if your sidepost tabs are broken? I have some stainless and rubber molding pulling away from the windshield at the top and I am suspecting broken sidepost tabs from reading other posts. Is the only way to tell if the side posts tabs are broken to loosen the windshield T bolts and raise it up and look under? Does anyone have a close up picture of what unbroken sideposts with intact tabs look like? Also, does anyone have upclose pictures showing what the sideposts repaired as I am told corvette central repairs them with a new piece of metal? I want to compare the two original to the CC repair option so I can understand the difference.
Old 09-26-2012, 04:59 PM
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JohnZ
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Originally Posted by Doug1964
I have a 1960. How can you tell if your sidepost tabs are broken? I have some stainless and rubber molding pulling away from the windshield at the top and I am suspecting broken sidepost tabs from reading other posts. Is the only way to tell if the side posts tabs are broken to loosen the windshield T bolts and raise it up and look under? Does anyone have a close up picture of what unbroken sideposts with intact tabs look like? Also, does anyone have upclose pictures showing what the sideposts repaired as I am told corvette central repairs them with a new piece of metal? I want to compare the two original to the CC repair option so I can understand the difference.
Here's what the repaired posts look like when they're done; part of the bottom surface is machined out, and a steel plate is screwed to the bottom of the tab. CC, Paul Mazut, and several others are good at it.
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:25 PM
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C1-Curt
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I just had mine done at coffmancorvette.com. Took about a week. CC says they take about 2 weeks. Mine were not broken but I figured while it is apart lets do it right.
Old 09-26-2012, 05:35 PM
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Doug1964
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how can one determine if the tabs are broken with the whole assembly together. The only sign I have is the passenger side frame pulling back from the glass at the top. Also, is there a way to temporarily get the glass back in on the passenger side and just not use the top to keep from pulling it apart again, until I decide how and when I am going to remove the windshield and repair it correctly if it needs it?
Old 09-26-2012, 06:10 PM
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mike coletta
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The tabs are probably broken. If you can move the sidepost back enough to release the glass......it's toast. Sometimes you can lift the rubber on the inside, right at the corner, and see the bottom of the post, but you won't be able to determine if it's broken, until you remove the windshield assembly. You might be able to get the glass back into the rubber, but don't use anything metal. Use a popsicle stick or a piece of plastic. It will probably stay in place until you clamp the top again. Not a fun job.

Mike Coletta
Old 09-26-2012, 08:41 PM
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......several suggestions on how to fix the problem which is good, but what exactly causes them to break?........because if its some dumb *** stunt, I will definitely avoid such an activity
Old 09-26-2012, 08:49 PM
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1snake
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
......several suggestions on how to fix the problem which is good, but what exactly causes them to break?........because if its some dumb *** stunt, I will definitely avoid such an activity

I've replaced several C-1 windshields and have never seen a broken tab. This is from a post on the NCRS site on the subject of why they tend to break - Tabs are SELDOM broken by removal/installation of windshieldframe--they are almost always broken by a shrunken soft top being clamped down trying to make it stretch and clamp both on the windshield header and on the deck lid.

I also heard that glass shops would purposely break them in order to install new glass without removing the frame from the body.

Jim
Old 09-26-2012, 10:30 PM
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Doug1964
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Thank you all for your most valuable information. I think I understand the situation much better now. Your information has been very helpful. I followed Mike's suggestion and was able to temporarily get the glass back into the frame. Now in the coming weeks when I have some time, I will have to do some dismantling and some investigation. One thing that I discovered is that one or more of the T screws do not even have nuts on them. The windshield on the car is supposedly totally restored, which from the looks of it, I believe it was, most looks new. However, either the tab situation was not resolved in the reassembly or the frame assembly was not installed on the car properly by the prior owner. I will do some disassembly and inspection and determine what is loose or broken and what needs to be replaced or repaired before I redo the entire frame assembly. For any one that was interested, I had a lot of trouble finding good photos and explanation of how this frame goes together. For you experienced guys I am sure it is old news. But for someone who has never taken one apart, I found a magazine article in Vette Magazine that is very helpful. Here is a link for anyone who is interested in seeing the photos or the suggested procedure. By the way, I am sure there are numerous procedure and possibly better ways of doing this so understand, I am not endorsing the procedure in the magazine. I just thought the basics and photos were helpful for me to get a general understanding. http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_00...ew_windshield/

Thanks again for all your helpful suggestions.

Last edited by Doug1964; 09-26-2012 at 11:02 PM.
Old 09-27-2012, 07:20 AM
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The best instructions for assembly of the windshield frame is in the ST-12. That Vette article is not very good. Lot's of "wrongs". A couple of things that popped out at me.......DO NOT try to weld the posts. They won't hold. Back in the day, that was what everybody did, and it doesn't work. Get the steel tabs installed. DO NOT install the top header with the stainless trim installed. It is the LAST part that you put on the frame. Don't use silicone for anything. It doesn't work, and will just make a mess. It can be done the way that they are showing, but it's a lot harder, and you'll probably break your glass. I've done hundreds of them. Use the ST-12 as your guide.

Mike Coletta
Old 09-27-2012, 07:39 AM
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SIXTYTWO
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I've used Paul Mazut (Mr. Solid Axle) for this repair and he does a great job. Nice work, quick turn around, fair price. Rich
Old 09-27-2012, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 1snake
...they are almost always broken by a shrunken soft top being clamped down trying to make it stretch and clamp both on the windshield header and on the deck lid.
Another argument for a Hartz StayFast convertible top IMO...doesn't shrink so no broken tabs.
I also heard that glass shops would purposely break them in order to install new glass without removing the frame from the body.
I've heard that several times too -- that's a trick I'd like to see.


I have an original pair of rechromed pillars with the original flimsy tabs and I am torn between installing them as-is or having the tabs beefed up with the steel plate BEFORE installation.
Old 09-27-2012, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
I have an original pair of rechromed pillars with the original flimsy tabs and I am torn between installing them as-is or having the tabs beefed up with the steel plate BEFORE installation.
get it done
Bill
Old 09-27-2012, 08:02 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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Originally Posted by SIXTYTWO
I've used Paul Mazut (Mr. Solid Axle) for this repair and he does a great job. Nice work, quick turn around, fair price. Rich
Can you PM me with his contact info ??
I'd rather deal direct with the fabricator rather than going third party thru one of the big repro vendors.

FTF
Old 09-27-2012, 08:35 AM
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Donald #31176
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Can you PM me with his contact info ??
I'd rather deal direct with the fabricator rather than going third party thru one of the big repro vendors.

FTF

http://paulmazutcorvette.com/
Old 09-27-2012, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
I have an original pair of rechromed pillars with the original flimsy tabs and I am torn between installing them as-is or having the tabs beefed up with the steel plate BEFORE installation.
I was in the same boat, I decided to get the tabs beefed up because I do not want to do the windshield twice. Just got mine back, now to install the glass
Old 09-27-2012, 03:05 PM
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Thanks Donald...C1-Curt. That's where I'm coming from ... figure I have one more C1 windshield R&R in me before I'm too gimpy to do it anymore so I want it 'bulletproof' from the git-go...
Old 09-27-2012, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by mike coletta
The best instructions for assembly of the windshield frame is in the ST-12. That Vette article is not very good. Lot's of "wrongs". A couple of things that popped out at me.......DO NOT try to weld the posts. They won't hold. Back in the day, that was what everybody did, and it doesn't work. Get the steel tabs installed. DO NOT install the top header with the stainless trim installed. It is the LAST part that you put on the frame. Don't use silicone for anything. It doesn't work, and will just make a mess. It can be done the way that they are showing, but it's a lot harder, and you'll probably break your glass. I've done hundreds of them. Use the ST-12 as your guide.

Mike Coletta
Mike,
I am getting ready to put my frame back together and I had found this procedure. What are your thoughts on this install procedure?

http://www.masacc.org/Documents/Wind...eplacement.pdf

I noticed the ST-12 only has you putting a medium bodied non-hardening sealer between the glass and the rubber and again between the body and lower glass frame. Does this go under the gasket between the body and gasket. What are you using for that?Will the 3M Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound 08509 talked about in the article work for both?

The above procedure also calls for strip caulk to be added to area's the ST-12 does not talk about, is that an un-needed step?
Old 09-27-2012, 06:51 PM
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When I did my dash pad, I also rebuilt the windshield. I left the tabs alone. They were in good condition. I figured since I "knew" the car, if in the future I redo the top (again), I'll be careful about how tight I make it. I don't show the car, so all I need is something tight enough to keep water out, and that happens very rarely, mostly when I wash the car.

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