Speed Direct

We are going to use this thread to document the installation of our new Steeroids rack and pinion kit on a ’60 Corvette. There will be a lot of photos so you can see what's going on. Additionally we encourage you to ask any questions that you may have.

When we first got the car we started with documenting the condition of the stock steering. Measuring the play in the steering box was quite eye opening. We measured 2.5” of play on a 13.75” diameter wheel. Needless to say it was a handful to keep in the lane while driving.



Next we disassembled the steering. The steering wheel is pulled.


The clamp under the dash for the column is unbolted.


The pitman arm needed to come off in order to get the steering box clear of the headers and frame. The entire steering box and steering column come out the front of the car.



More to come...

Speed Direct

The tie rods are separated from the steering arms.


3rd arm is unbolted from the crossmember.


The two middle bolts are a pain to get to. How about a few extensions to reach? The upper fan shroud had to be unbolted and moved toward the engine in order to gain access to the bolts.


The 3rd arm and tie rods weighed 22 lbs


Next up…installation

Speed Direct

Now we can start installing things.
Removing the 4 bolts to the pass. side engine mount. Make sure the engine is supported before you do this.


Pass side bracket slides between the engine mount and the frame.


Driver’s side bracket uses the three existing bolt holes for the old steering box.


The bearing support bracket installs over the top of the frame rail and uses the top two steering box bolt holes.


The tie rod bracket bolts to the rack unit.


The return line attaches to the rack before it goes on the car.


Center the rack by counting the total turns and turning back half way.


Now the rack bolts to the mounting brackets.

Speed Direct

Here are a few more shots of the pass. side bracket



The 3rd arm pivot also acts as a support for the radiator cross member. So a new support needs to be added.


Tie rods are assembled by applying anti-seize to the threads first.


Previous to bolting the rack to the car it is laid out with the old tie rods and set to the same overall dimension.


Bolt the tie rods to the steering arm and rack unit.

Speed Direct

Steering column and u-joints

The steering column can be bolted in using the factory clamp. Be sure to clock it so the turn signal lever is on the left side of the wheel.


The signal lever and hazard button thread on.



The wiring is about as simple as it gets. We careful labeled all the connections but it turns out it wasn’t needed at all. The wiring kit that comes with the column is accurately color coded and labeled so all you have to do is match the colors and everything just plugs in.


Installing the u-joints is straight forward. Just be sure the joints are phased properly (like a drive shaft would be) as they are placed on the splined shafts.
Here is a u-joint setup for rams horns exhaust.


The connection is a little more of a challenge for an engine with headers. It requires an additional u-joint and support bearing as well as a different bracket.


Here’s a tip to reduce play in a steering system. A u-joint has two set screws that hold it on the pinion shaft. The sequence in which they are tightened can have a big effect on rotational play. Tighten the screw that contacts the shaft flat first (left hand portion of the pinion). Next tighten the screw that engages the notch on the right side of the photo.

Speed Direct

Now we can install the power steering pump and plumb the system.

Mounting bracket bolts to the front of the engine block on the driver’s side.


The GM type II pump is light and compact.


Once the pulley is pressed on to the shaft the pump is bolted to the mount. It’s a tight fit around the engine mount but there is enough room.


Trial fit the hoses to route them clear of moving parts, heat sources and to keep them from rubbing. Mark the length them need to be trimmed to.


Once trimmed the high pressure hose has a banjo fitting that must be assembled on the end. The olive goes between the braided cover and the Teflon inner hose. The banjo is pushed on and the outer collar is tightened on to the banjo. The other hoses are a simple push on style with a hose clamp.


Mount the reservoir and connect the hoses.


Keep the bend radius as large as possible to avoid kinking the hose. Fill with fluid and purge the system of air.

Speed Direct

Just one photo for now. I'll wrap up the entire thing tomorrow.

Speed Direct

Well, this post has taken a while to get too. Last week was a bit busy so I couldn't get to it.

Most everything is complete but for a few small details. The steering wheel needs to be installed onto the column. Since the rack was centered previously you can install the wheel centered as well.


You can do a quick alignment using a pair of tape measures. Be sure to adjust each tie rod sleeve equally. We generally set the toe at a slight toe in (1/16”) to zero. It depends on the amount of positive caster you have in the front or how responsive you want the steering to be.


Bump steer was an important consideration during the design of this system. The stock steering had quite a lot of bump steer. We were able to remedy this situation with careful geometry design.


This is the stock bump steer curve. You will notice that at 1” of wheel travel the toe has changed .043”. This is just on one side so in total it has added .086” of toe-in. That is a lot of toe change.


Here is the final bump steer curve. 1” of wheel travel yields .007” toe change. That is 1/6 th the amount as before. If you don’t want your car steering itself then you have to get the bump steer fixed in a similar manner.


Additionally, here is a comparison of a '62. This is on the same section of road. Top of the screen is stock steering and bottom is Steeroids with a smaller diameter steering wheel.

1955 copper

WOW! You really put to gather quite a nice posting , thanks . I found re-adjusting the drag link and adding roller wheel bearings plus radio tires really tightened up my steering in my 55 and it drive great. But again I'm a stock kind of guy. Glad you like your new steering.

wmf62

how many different stations can you get on those 'radio tires'? are they AM or FM?

Bill

1955 copper

In some areas I can pick up short wave stations and CB.

firstgear

nice detailed posting.....

54greg

Great posting!

SEXTY2

Not only is it a TRUE BOLT ON INSTALLATION it preforms as a world class unit.

My 62 was used to develop the prototype parts and I have driving the car since April of 2009 with these protype parts. The difference is absolutely amazing.

The video above of the car with the stock system and the new Power R&P system is of my car. It is a dramatic improvement in the handeling of the car. There is no more constant correcting of the wheel to keep the car in a straight line.

When you turn the wheel into a corner the response is immediate and positive and the return to a straight line mode is smooth and easy. There is no more bump steer at all thanks to the careful planning and research that went into the development of this kit. I would recommend this kit to anyone who wants to DRIVE their C1.

I know that I was not putting many miles on this car as it was a PIA to drive long distances with the constant correcting and the POWER STEERING BY ARMSTRONG that made it a real pleasure to paralell park.

I got acquainted with these folks when I installed their kit in my 74 L82 and pressured them to develop the same kind of kit for the C1's as I was so pleased with the way the 74 drove.

Since April of 2009 I have put almost 20,000 miles on the 62 and it has become my favorite car. I only wish now that there was better seating in the car as after about 8 hours on the road my backside is a little sore.

I am raving about the product so much that I forgot to mention that Eric & Mark are 2 of the nicest guys that I have ever dealt with, they are true Vette folks with a genuine concern for making the experience a pleasurable one.

Any one with more specific questions or concerns please feel free to respond to this or you can PM me.

BB

wmf62

a nice way to add R&P without having to change out your front suspension; BUT i have my reservations about all the joints and some of the support brackets.

in my opinion, for the $$$$, a complete new IFS is a much better option; ride-wise and otherwise.
Bill

SEXTY2

All of those joints are only necessary if you have headers. I have about the same setup on my Street Rod but with the support bearings I have never had any issues. I use the Borgeson joints and support bearings and they have lasted over 100k on my 47 chevy.


On my 62 there is only one support bearing.

The problem with having a new IFS system is the wheel size, if you want to do that you must use billet wheels and some of us want to keep the look of the stock wheels or in my case chrome reversed wheels. Those big brakes on the new systems will not fit in a 15 inch traditional wheel.

I guess it's a matter of what each individual likes but I like to keep the car looking as traditional as possible. I don't find any fault at all with the original suspension now that I have lowerd it via dropped spindle supports and added disc brakes on the front.

Yes it's antiquated technology but I just use it on the street and don't plan on racing it at all.

BB

Viking427

Thanks to Sexty2 and Speed Direct for the product intro & review. There are kits available that allow cutting your stock column down in length. They place a bearing within the end of the column's outer tube that locates the inner shaft. The only requirement would be to spline the C1's freshly cut inner shaft, or replace it with a splined one, so you can mount a Borgeson or rag joint. Doing so would allow keeping your stock column (and VIN plate on 60-62) and lower the cost of such R&P, IFS kits that include an entire aftermarket steering column just as a means to attach a steering wheel. Just another option..

SEXTY2

Bttt !!!!!!!!!!!!!

B b

Black60

Great stuff. I would be very interested in comparing the power to the manual steering unit. Has anyone driven both?

Ralph

Black60

On my 62 there is only one support bearing.

The problem with having a new IFS system is the wheel size, if you want to do that you must use billet wheels and some of us want to keep the look of the stock wheels or in my case chrome reversed wheels. Those big brakes on the new systems will not fit in a 15 inch traditional wheel.

I guess it's a matter of what each individual likes but I like to keep the car looking as traditional as possible. I don't find any fault at all with the original suspension now that I have lowerd it via dropped spindle supports and added disc brakes on the front.

Yes it's antiquated technology but I just use it on the street and don't plan on racing it at all.

BB[/QUOTE]

SEXTY2:
Could you give me more information about the "dropped spindle support".

Thanks,

Ralph